No one likes that preachy safety guy but 12 years in on my double lung 🫁 transplant. I wish you had a cheap little smoke filter fan. Great video i’ve been giving you guys most of my money for years!
Honestly, we actually LOVE that preachy safety guy! And we appreciate your contribution to the conversation, thank you. And, to that point; the soldering in this is pretty much the only soldering done in this shop without that sort of protection. And that's just because the space and microphones made it pretty difficult to work it into the setup. When we solder day-to-day, we have carbon filters, fans to dissipate any remaining fumes/smoke, and then that air goes through industrial-grade air scrubbers that we have between every workstation to clean and turn over the ambient air. This is in addition to filtering downdraft tables at workstations used for applying CA glues, as well as our normal HVAC system that has HEPA and UV filters. We take safety very seriously and we strongly advocate for others do so as well. Thanks again for bringing this up, it cannot be overstated how important it is.
@@LollarPickups So a fan would be fine for a single installation at a time? Do you have any tutorials about removing PCB boards out of say an SG Tribute to install one of your pre-wired parts?
The biggest difference was I tried using those weaker soldering irons and then never get hot enough to make good solder joints. Almost always ended up with cold solder joints. After I bought a soldering station where I could adjust the heat that helped tremendously
When soldering in the guitar cavity, what can you use so the soldering iron doesn't burn the wood because the soldering iron pencil can easily burn the walls of the guitar cavity but I don't know what to use to protect the guitar cavity walls because of the very tight soldering spots when guitars have a lot of active electronics or very small cavity to solder in. What would you recommend using to protect the guitar cavity walls and guitar body from the angle of the soldering iron pencil from burning into it?
Great question! There are a couple options for shielding the instrument from heat. First, you could get a small, thin piece of silicone and use it as a barrier. They are used as such in products for everything from soldering, baking, etc. You could get a larger one and cut it to the size you need. There may also be small heat shields made of things like fiberglass that are used for welding, but I haven't seen any small enough for use in an instrument cavity and I wouldn't want to trim fiberglass to size, like I would silicone. The other option would be to get a smaller soldering iron, or at least a smaller tip for your existing iron. This will allow you to have more clearance around the iron and fit it into smaller areas.
@@LollarPickups thanks for the info. Maybe you can make a low budget video lesson how to use the silicone to protect the guitar wood cavity and body when the soldering iron pencil is angled laying on the cavity burning it to see how good the silicone will protect it from a 600F degrees to 700F degrees
Others have experimented with the idea to varying degrees of usefulness. It certainly would make things much easier for the end user if this were widely adopted across the industry. But the real issue is, there is no standard convention for this sort of thing. In order for this to be functional, you have to have a harness in the instrument for the pickups to plug into, which only a VERY small relative number of guitars currently have. And the builders that do implement some type of quick connection systems don't all use the same manner of connections. So, to make it worth the investment of time and money, first, you'd have to see to it that at least a majority of instruments had not only the harness required, but that they all had the *same type* of harness. It would take a great deal of cooperation from one instrument manufacturer to another, and in addition, from one pickup manufacturer to another, just to create the standard for the connections. Only then would it be worthwhile to implement on a broad scale. Even retrofitting instruments that are already without them would involve at least the same amount of soldering to install the harness to plug the pickups into the guitar. Bu this may, in fact, be worth it though, on an individual basis. If someone wanted to swap out different pickups on a somewhat regular basis, it might make sense for them to come up with some sort of "plug-and-play" system that works for them.
Why use “de-soldering” things for such simple manipulations? The average solderer can cope without them, as long as multi-legged parts are not involved. Terrible degradation.
It's better to have something and not need it than to need something and not have it. Some folks don't even know that these sorts of tools exist, so we're just letting people know what tools are at their disposal. Besides, it doesn't hurt anyone/anything to desolder and resolder, rather than just try to use the old, used solder blob from the previous installation. It requires less time than it takes to leave a comment on a RUclips video.
No one likes that preachy safety guy but 12 years in on my double lung 🫁 transplant. I wish you had a cheap little smoke filter fan. Great video i’ve been giving you guys most of my money for years!
Honestly, we actually LOVE that preachy safety guy! And we appreciate your contribution to the conversation, thank you.
And, to that point; the soldering in this is pretty much the only soldering done in this shop without that sort of protection. And that's just because the space and microphones made it pretty difficult to work it into the setup. When we solder day-to-day, we have carbon filters, fans to dissipate any remaining fumes/smoke, and then that air goes through industrial-grade air scrubbers that we have between every workstation to clean and turn over the ambient air. This is in addition to filtering downdraft tables at workstations used for applying CA glues, as well as our normal HVAC system that has HEPA and UV filters. We take safety very seriously and we strongly advocate for others do so as well. Thanks again for bringing this up, it cannot be overstated how important it is.
@@LollarPickups So a fan would be fine for a single installation at a time? Do you have any tutorials about removing PCB boards out of say an SG Tribute to install one of your pre-wired parts?
As soldering rookie these tips helped out quite a bit. I was able to install a tele wiring harness with all clean solder joints this time lol.
So happy to hear that folks are finding our videos like this helpful!
The biggest difference was I tried using those weaker soldering irons and then never get hot enough to make good solder joints. Almost always ended up with cold solder joints. After I bought a soldering station where I could adjust the heat that helped tremendously
Thank you! That was great.
You're welcome and thank you!
When soldering in the guitar cavity, what can you use so the soldering iron doesn't burn the wood because the soldering iron pencil can easily burn the walls of the guitar cavity but I don't know what to use to protect the guitar cavity walls because of the very tight soldering spots when guitars have a lot of active electronics or very small cavity to solder in. What would you recommend using to protect the guitar cavity walls and guitar body from the angle of the soldering iron pencil from burning into it?
Great question! There are a couple options for shielding the instrument from heat. First, you could get a small, thin piece of silicone and use it as a barrier. They are used as such in products for everything from soldering, baking, etc. You could get a larger one and cut it to the size you need. There may also be small heat shields made of things like fiberglass that are used for welding, but I haven't seen any small enough for use in an instrument cavity and I wouldn't want to trim fiberglass to size, like I would silicone.
The other option would be to get a smaller soldering iron, or at least a smaller tip for your existing iron. This will allow you to have more clearance around the iron and fit it into smaller areas.
@@LollarPickups thanks for the info. Maybe you can make a low budget video lesson how to use the silicone to protect the guitar wood cavity and body when the soldering iron pencil is angled laying on the cavity burning it to see how good the silicone will protect it from a 600F degrees to 700F degrees
A hemostat or two is handy when making a union joint.
True, I've used them in the past and they are pretty helpful. But, for most jobs here in the shop, we get by without.
Any future in plug in pick ups?
Others have experimented with the idea to varying degrees of usefulness. It certainly would make things much easier for the end user if this were widely adopted across the industry.
But the real issue is, there is no standard convention for this sort of thing. In order for this to be functional, you have to have a harness in the instrument for the pickups to plug into, which only a VERY small relative number of guitars currently have. And the builders that do implement some type of quick connection systems don't all use the same manner of connections. So, to make it worth the investment of time and money, first, you'd have to see to it that at least a majority of instruments had not only the harness required, but that they all had the *same type* of harness. It would take a great deal of cooperation from one instrument manufacturer to another, and in addition, from one pickup manufacturer to another, just to create the standard for the connections. Only then would it be worthwhile to implement on a broad scale.
Even retrofitting instruments that are already without them would involve at least the same amount of soldering to install the harness to plug the pickups into the guitar. Bu this may, in fact, be worth it though, on an individual basis. If someone wanted to swap out different pickups on a somewhat regular basis, it might make sense for them to come up with some sort of "plug-and-play" system that works for them.
_" If you're not fluxing, you're not soldering!"_
Why use “de-soldering” things for such simple manipulations?
The average solderer can cope without them, as long as multi-legged parts are not involved.
Terrible degradation.
It's better to have something and not need it than to need something and not have it. Some folks don't even know that these sorts of tools exist, so we're just letting people know what tools are at their disposal. Besides, it doesn't hurt anyone/anything to desolder and resolder, rather than just try to use the old, used solder blob from the previous installation. It requires less time than it takes to leave a comment on a RUclips video.
@Pickups
For 30+ years of tinkering with guitars, I've never used anything other than a soldering iron, flux and solder.
Cool, thanks for sharing.
@@LollarPickups Bless you heart 😉