I have a 77 that I just fought and fought with trying to get my hood to close properly. Bought new hinges and that didn’t help. Finally figured it out. You have 3 bolts on each hood hinge. Leave the lower middle bolt alone and listen the other two and work in small increments by tipping the hinges like your opening up the hood further, so they’ll rock back toward the cab. Small increments, then tighten and close to check progress and the back end of the hood will be lower when it’s closed. Also close slowly to make sure the hood isn’t hitting the cowl. If it is, both hinges may need to come forward. I simply slid my hood forward because i was beyond tired of messing with it but I finally got it closing right with pretty close to perfect gaps.
Sorry to pop your bubble but all of the gripes you have about your truck come with the territory of owning an old truck. If you want turnkey ready, go, buy a new truck. After growing up in a body shop building and restoring classic cars, I have come to the conclusion that they should have a $100 bill slot on the dash. Every time you start it up, it needs $100 for something!! Nowadays with inflation, that's $250.
Hey Elliot-can you please do a short video on the 95 door jam weatherstrip?-not a fan of the glue on originals as well and would love to see them and their fit on the Bronco--you said if you could only help out just one person -then its totally worth what you're doing!-please would love to see them!--I have dreamt about weatherstrip that would hold without glue for my 78 Bronco -please consider this-Thanks brother -Steve in Canada*
I think most people put them on when their front end components start wearing out. Bronco rides smoother than f150 but has all new parts in axle and steering.
I stumbled upon your channel and can identify a lot with your "hates" I drove the first dentside to arrive in Mesa Az in 1972 at berge ford. The transport driver couldn`t get it started so being a young 22 year old "monkey" I was commanded by the dealership owner to " get up there and get that truck started Hippy" ( my nickname since my hair touched my collar}.. The ignition switch was not plugged in all the way . After the dealership I went to work for an insurance adjuster from Albuquerque NM. He bought all teh fords the Navajos totaled after driving them for a week, yep , a week sometimes. We would take them back to Phoenix and make one runner out of 3 and sell the leftover parts. In 1975 I went on my own until a truck fell on me in 2019 and when my wife divorced me and was forced to sell out and retire. I now live in Payson AZ and have hauled the parts that wern`t stolen up her with me. I don`t think I have a lot of time left on this earth and need to sell all my "stuff". My typing is very hard to do in my condition. I parted out and built over 1500 dentsides since 1990 and have a lot of parts and trucks left. Some tools also but most were stolen along with all my guns. I would like to speak with you for a few reasons. One is I want to know who sold you this truck you speak of. second to be there for you and anyone who needs advice on these units and also to ask if you or anyone you know would like my remaining inventory. Like I said it is hard for me to type and even harde r to read. I went blind in 2019 and many operations have restored my sight partially . Please call me any time . I dont sleep much so dont worry about the time . Thanks Rick Wallace
I fixed a '76 F150 about 20 years ago. The front tires pigeon-toed terribly after a 4" lift. I used the steering link from '79 Bronco along with a drop pitman arm. 36x14.50 Super Swampers needed the dual stabilizer for control.
90% of the stuff you're complaining about is expectations, you act like you expect it to drive like a new car. It's not going to drive like a new car it's an old truck. While the add-on power steering system that they used on the 4x4 is up until 77 1/2 did suck just about everything else you've complained about is almost irrelevant. And as far as the hood hinges go your hood hinges are not adjusted correctly. It is a rather painstaking task to get them adjusted properly but that's all that needs to be done. Raising up the radiator support to raise up the front clip won't line up the rear with the cab it'll just make the whole hood sit up too high, loosen all three bolts on the side of the hinge and bring the whole thing down until the hood closes correctly when you shut it.
Beautiful truck! I have a 73 super camper special with a 390 and 4 speed. My biggest gripe is the awful gas mileage, I mean its beyond awful. I guess we don't do this to save gas tho lol.
Yep... Controversy! I love the dual shocks! Added them to my 1979 Bronco back in the early 90's and never looked back! Back then I built a good strong 460, so my engine was heavier. I love a good stiff ride and it does handle better! I also love the steering stabilizer! It absolutely helps! With that said I still learned a few things watching your episode, never knew that about the door seals! way to go Jr., keep up the good work!
@@Notafordguy iam subscribed and took notes from your headache of fixing the gas gauge which i will be tackling in the next couple weeks.i ordered a new fuel sending unit and it should be here in a couple days
My Dad ordered his 1977 F150 short wide brand new from the factory with a F350 transmission. Always been stored inside and this truck will always be passed down in our Family. They will always have parts to keep these Fords around forever.
Hah!!!! I've been thinking about experimenting with spacers under my rad support, to straighten up the fender on one side, and hopefully the hood too. What's up with the earlier grills and turn signal lenses? I subbed just because this video!
IIRC, the hood is an odd thing... if you RAISE the rear mounts, it LOWERS the rear. It's not just the springs, it's how it has to fall BACK into place. I restored a 73 F250 Highboy about 25 years ago and that was a tricky part. If you look at the rear hinge at the end of its travel, it's a bit easier to understand. But if you just loosen the mounting bolts, raise the mount up, then see if that pulls it back and down. Also, IIRC, where the inner fender mounts to the firewall. You can oblong the holes to get more adjustability. I think I used large fender washers on all those mounts to get more adjustability.
You must not own one of these if you can’t find a single problem with it. Don’t get me wrong they are great trucks but if you can’t admit the duraspark is a terrible system then you must not have experienced the these trucks enough.
@Notafordguy I've had an ignition module go on a 79 LTD but never had problems on a truck 78 or 79. Had a replacent rotor break inside the distributor cap though.
I haven’t put the video out yet but I had a brand new box go bad literally right after I put a new carburetor and intake on. Made for a lot of headaches and heartburn. Pretty sure I made this video two days later 😂
@@Notafordguy I’m just getting back around to fixing it up again, best advice don’t stop driving it! But I’m working on fitting some heat/cool powered king ranch seats in, then I gotta redo the carpet and all that good stuff. I’ll post a video when I get the seats in, I don’t have any truck videos on the RUclips, but you were right, there isn’t info or content on the 77s it’s always 72’ or 79’ 🤣
Not a 77 grill. That is a earlier grill fits all dent sides but I remember the 77 grill because my first truck was a 77 ranger XLT f150 camper special with a 460.
I had a 75 F 100 4x4 for 18 years and the steering box whine, 9 inch axle bearing failure, hard starting when cold and weak starter was aggravating. Awesome looking truck though. As you can tell by my name I prefer Dodge now.
I grew up in a 4 door 1978 dodge w200 power wagon that my dad bought at an auction for $600. It was a truck used on the local Air Force base for fueling. Had a 318 and np205 transfer case. I just love trucks no matter the make.
THREE POINTS: 1. Actually, $10,000 is a good and fair price for the F150 you purchased. The 1973 - 1979 Ford "Dent Side" trucks including the second generation 1978 - 1979 Broncos sell for $40,000 - $65,000 plus in very good to excellent condition at all of the popular online sources. 2. @ 4:54 - Those appear to be Rancho (not Ranchero) 5000 series shocks. Definitely do not appear to be the Rancho 9000 series (I've had Rancho 9000 shocks)...don't see the small red adjustment knob. Furthermore, virtually all OEM shocks are junk compared to aftermarket shocks with one notable exception on new GM trucks...the Multimatic DSSV shocks (aka - dampers). However, for a long list of reasons, I would not own a Chevrolet or GMC 4WD truck newer than 1972. Not a fan of GM "Square Body" trucks and starting in 1988, GM went with IFS Axle and "low hanging" frame rails...not good on a Class 2 (2500) or Class 3 (3500) 4WD truck. IFS Axle is not as strong and trouble free as a Dana 60 Solid Front Axle...and low hanging frame rails greatly reduce the "Breakover Angle" which can and does cause the Chevrolet and GMC 4WD trucks to "high center" a small rounded knolls off-road...quite a sight to see....both hilarious and pathetic at the same time! 3. Parts Replacement comes with buying older trucks. It is hardly ever one part that fixes a particular problem on 40 to 60 year old trucks. It costs money to fix these trucks up correctly.....using NEW OEM parts in combination with some better quality aftermarket parts. LMC Truck out of Kansas City MO (Go Chiefs...ha!) is an excellent source for original OEM parts.
Hobbyist mechanics..... Lol I got a piece of advise, if your winters are below freezing like where i live. I leave my driver window down and crawl through it in the morning. Tarp over the window to keep snow out and such. As for the hood. There are adjustments but, loon at the spring ment to pop the hood up when you release the latch. That spring gets bent, and throws everything off. I daily drive a 73 f250 2wd. Its a finicky little bitch, but when shes banging it all good times. Im a professional mechanic and if i didnt have 20yrs of experience, owning my old ford would be a frustrating experience. I bought mine for $800 from a kid, it wouldnt run. I showed up with an hei dizzy, china carb and gas can with 20ft of fuel line. Ended up riding the 55mi trip home with the gas can riding shot gun and the fuel line running through the wing window. Good times
I got a 74 almost just like it but it’s green and white. I paid 1150 dollars for it in 2013. It runs perfectly right now. Drove it about a hour ago. I upgraded the steering box is about all I’ve done. That and tires, oil changes and plenty gas. lol 390 loves gas
but the one thing you do love is your a proud owner of a dent side. pleasure to open up garage door and seein they old stud. its a 35 year love affair for me,,
Multi shocks are very similar to my take on dually tires. People tend to buy cheaper tires because they need more of them. Buy less and buy better quality. That's my suggestion.
I had a 1976 F 150 Dentside. 360 Automatic Full time 4x4. I fixed all those issues. Plus many other. Got rid of it Then I bought a Chevy . Best fix ever 😂 Best day of my life was when I didn't have to Fix Or Repair Daily. If it decided to start that day.
The issues with these fords and getting parts for them makes me want a v8 squarebody to build a sleeper . But any video i watch on the trucks makes me cringe with the rust and overall poor build quality of them. And makes me think an old smog era v8 that is hard to interchange isnt so bad after all. And I can close the hood with put it folding in half
Ford over Chevy for the 70s for sure 80s I say Chevy. I drive a 2015 Chevy 2500 so I’m definitely not loyal. There is a reason everyone puts dentside for parts in their jeep.
It was supposed to have great paint and they told me I could drive it home from Arizona to Wisconsin! Obviously I got the short end of that deal but the truck serves its purpose and I can get enough of it.
@@NotafordguyYeah, you got taken. I'm from Arizona and these trucks in that shape routinely fetch sub-$7K. If it had new paint, then I could see $8-10K running or not. Rebuilding old Iron like that is pretty cheap. I did my 460 for about $1,000. Paint, body, and frame is what brings the value up. Rare options help, depending on which ones you have. Interiors are simple with repro parts like dash pad, carpet, panels and seat upholstery totaling less than $1,500 if you look in the right places. I can say that confidently since I live below the rust belt and things last forever here. Especially if garage kept away from the sun. So, needless to say, there's an abundance of old iron running around here. especially in our smaller towns. So, if you went to Phoenix or Tucson, I can understand how that happened.
1990 paid $998 for my 76 f150 only rust drivers side fender just below cowl brake fluid leak because booster was also rotten previous owner had 50,000 dot3 bottles there purchased new fender/inner fender then spent 2 years building this ford into my dream truck. goodbye 360 hello 390 with 4V intake rebuilt c6 rebuilt transfer case repainted ppg deltron basecoat/clear coat metallic ford midnight blue inside/out 2 gallons base color alone 3" body lift 4" suspension rancho shocks the rebuilt 390 got brand new holley 650cfm headers 12" glass packs 38" gumbo mudders on 15x8 aluminum slot wheels new mirrors on doors with cb whips installed aftermarket sunroof (hated it) new carpet new bucket seats on & on & on bla bla bla problem was cops would'nt leave me alone something about blacked out windows & bumpers too high many tickets & trip to court sold the truck kid that bought it rolled it days later recently talked to his sister it still sitting at the gravel pit upside down said i can have it back but don't want it
I started making one but I’m not sure I uploaded it. It pushed on very easy. I made the video for the red truck around the same time I did the carpet. I can see if I can edit it into a short. Thanks for the comment.
@@jorgelopez3922 I'm not sure there's any seal along the bottom from the factory. I restored a 73 F250 and bought the factory correct seal. I had to be set into place, then smashed by the door being closed for a long time before it was crushed into place. The bottom of the door, you's had to do the same thing... You apply a foam rubber seal, then force the door closed and let it sit until it crushes into place. Hint: If you put some grease along the non-glued side, it'll keep the foam rubber from sticking to the paint. It takes a good while for new foam rubber to smash to its working height.
@@Notafordguy I buy fix and sell these trucks as a side business and have for years, I purchased a local 77 f150 ext cab a few months back 1 owner not a spec of rust for $4k, I bought a 73 f250 1 owner ranger xlt highboy from washington first of the year for 5500, I bought a rust free 77 f250 4x4 custom from a guy in nashville for 7,000...... but 10 for that? with as many issues as you said? you should've shopped around more.
I have a 77 that I just fought and fought with trying to get my hood to close properly. Bought new hinges and that didn’t help. Finally figured it out. You have 3 bolts on each hood hinge. Leave the lower middle bolt alone and listen the other two and work in small increments by tipping the hinges like your opening up the hood further, so they’ll rock back toward the cab. Small increments, then tighten and close to check progress and the back end of the hood will be lower when it’s closed. Also close slowly to make sure the hood isn’t hitting the cowl. If it is, both hinges may need to come forward. I simply slid my hood forward because i was beyond tired of messing with it but I finally got it closing right with pretty close to perfect gaps.
I’m gonna have to refer to this comment next time I’m messing with these big hoods. Thanks for the comment!
Sorry to pop your bubble but all of the gripes you have about your truck come with the territory of owning an old truck. If you want turnkey ready, go, buy a new truck. After growing up in a body shop building and restoring classic cars, I have come to the conclusion that they should have a $100 bill slot on the dash. Every time you start it up, it needs $100 for something!! Nowadays with inflation, that's $250.
Hey Elliot-can you please do a short video on the 95 door jam weatherstrip?-not a fan of the glue on originals as well and would love to see them and their fit on the Bronco--you said if you could only help out just one person -then its totally worth what you're doing!-please would love to see them!--I have dreamt about weatherstrip that would hold without glue for my 78 Bronco -please consider this-Thanks brother -Steve in Canada*
The dentsides are such a good looking truck and Bronco. I always pull the steering damper off first thing and never put one back on.
I think most people put them on when their front end components start wearing out. Bronco rides smoother than f150 but has all new parts in axle and steering.
I stumbled upon your channel and can identify a lot with your "hates" I drove the first dentside to arrive in Mesa Az in 1972 at berge ford. The transport driver couldn`t get it started so being a young 22 year old "monkey" I was commanded by the dealership owner to " get up there and get that truck started Hippy" ( my nickname since my hair touched my collar}.. The ignition switch was not plugged in all the way . After the dealership I went to work for an insurance adjuster from Albuquerque NM. He bought all teh fords the Navajos totaled after driving them for a week, yep , a week sometimes. We would take them back to Phoenix and make one runner out of 3 and sell the leftover parts. In 1975 I went on my own until a truck fell on me in 2019 and when my wife divorced me and was forced to sell out and retire. I now live in Payson AZ and have hauled the parts that wern`t stolen up her with me. I don`t think I have a lot of time left on this earth and need to sell all my "stuff". My typing is very hard to do in my condition. I parted out and built over 1500 dentsides since 1990 and have a lot of parts and trucks left. Some tools also but most were stolen along with all my guns. I would like to speak with you for a few reasons. One is I want to know who sold you this truck you speak of. second to be there for you and anyone who needs advice on these units and also to ask if you or anyone you know would like my remaining inventory. Like I said it is hard for me to type and even harde r to read. I went blind in 2019 and many operations have restored my sight partially . Please call me any time . I dont sleep much so dont worry about the time . Thanks Rick Wallace
Thanks for the comment. How can one get ahold of you?
I fixed a '76 F150 about 20 years ago. The front tires pigeon-toed terribly after a 4" lift. I used the steering link from '79 Bronco along with a drop pitman arm. 36x14.50 Super Swampers needed the dual stabilizer for control.
90% of the stuff you're complaining about is expectations, you act like you expect it to drive like a new car. It's not going to drive like a new car it's an old truck. While the add-on power steering system that they used on the 4x4 is up until 77 1/2 did suck just about everything else you've complained about is almost irrelevant. And as far as the hood hinges go your hood hinges are not adjusted correctly. It is a rather painstaking task to get them adjusted properly but that's all that needs to be done. Raising up the radiator support to raise up the front clip won't line up the rear with the cab it'll just make the whole hood sit up too high, loosen all three bolts on the side of the hinge and bring the whole thing down until the hood closes correctly when you shut it.
You are correct, the hood hinges need to be readjusted. Unbolt them from the bottom and slide them down until your hood sits level.
Beautiful truck! I have a 73 super camper special with a 390 and 4 speed. My biggest gripe is the awful gas mileage, I mean its beyond awful. I guess we don't do this to save gas tho lol.
I get 9.1 mpg in my 2015 Chevy 2500hd 6.0 so I’m not complaining 😂
Hi man I,m the uk and have a 1978 f150 ranger...man do I love it
That’s awesome! Plenty more ford stuff coming thanks for the comment
Yep... Controversy! I love the dual shocks! Added them to my 1979 Bronco back in the early 90's and never looked back! Back then I built a good strong 460, so my engine was heavier. I love a good stiff ride and it does handle better! I also love the steering stabilizer! It absolutely helps! With that said I still learned a few things watching your episode, never knew that about the door seals! way to go Jr., keep up the good work!
Thanks for the comment after going the winter without driving the trucks I can tell steering is pretty loose
i have a 78 F250 i need all the tips i can get
Subscribe because I have a ton more f250 content coming!
@@Notafordguy iam subscribed and took notes from your headache of fixing the gas gauge which i will be tackling in the next couple weeks.i ordered a new fuel sending unit and it should be here in a couple days
my 78 has round headlights its a custom trim package with no body trim
My Dad ordered his 1977 F150 short wide brand new from the factory with a F350 transmission. Always been stored inside and this truck will always be passed down in our Family. They will always have parts to keep these Fords around forever.
My dad got his first truck from the newspaper in 1985. Old Alaskan railroad highboy. Thanks for the comment
I love the 1970s-era sides, but I absolutely loved my 1980s-era full-size Bronco and 4x4 pickups with Twin Traction Beam front ends.
What I hate about my 77 f150 is that it’s old……..really dude…..it’s an old truck…..things wear out and you have to repair it
There is always room for improvement
Hah!!!! I've been thinking about experimenting with spacers under my rad support, to straighten up the fender on one side, and hopefully the hood too.
What's up with the earlier grills and turn signal lenses?
I subbed just because this video!
Thanks for the comment I love this truck and looking to have it painted and prettied up in the next year.
I expected to hear about the steering design. I switched to the '78-9 design components immediately and recommend everyone does it.
Thanks for the comment it makes for a massive improvement
IIRC, the hood is an odd thing... if you RAISE the rear mounts, it LOWERS the rear. It's not just the springs, it's how it has to fall BACK into place. I restored a 73 F250 Highboy about 25 years ago and that was a tricky part. If you look at the rear hinge at the end of its travel, it's a bit easier to understand. But if you just loosen the mounting bolts, raise the mount up, then see if that pulls it back and down. Also, IIRC, where the inner fender mounts to the firewall. You can oblong the holes to get more adjustability. I think I used large fender washers on all those mounts to get more adjustability.
Problem was the second patch wasn’t latching. Problem was operator error my bad. I moved the latch up and now it looks great
Maybe I do need one😂
Lol why does this video make you want one?
Anyone that hates anything about those trucks should drive a scooter with a luggage rack and purse mounts.
You must not own one of these if you can’t find a single problem with it. Don’t get me wrong they are great trucks but if you can’t admit the duraspark is a terrible system then you must not have experienced the these trucks enough.
@Notafordguy I've had an ignition module go on a 79 LTD but never had problems on a truck 78 or 79. Had a replacent rotor break inside the distributor cap though.
I haven’t put the video out yet but I had a brand new box go bad literally right after I put a new carburetor and intake on. Made for a lot of headaches and heartburn. Pretty sure I made this video two days later 😂
I'd heap rather have an old Ford than a piece of shit Chinese Chevy
Looks like a nice truck. You have a 73-75 grill in it though. 76 & 77 shared a grill slightly different.
The truck came with a 79/79 grille and I’m not a fan of it. I have the inserts for this grille. The current grille came off my dads 1974 highboy.
I have all the original dealership repair manuals for these trucks. If I can locate them Ill send em to ya if you want them.
That thing is sweet!!!
Thanks for the comment! Follow along cuz I have even better projects coming
Hey, I would love to see more content about your dentside. Especially the door seals.
I’ll have a lot more coming im just very busy with work. Can’t wait to get back into making vids thanks for watching
The dual shock front is to lessen wheel hop.
Thanks for the content and info! I got a 77 long bed 4x4 same color but white roof!
F150 or f250?
@@Notafordguy f150-Ranger XLT
@@Notafordguy I’m just getting back around to fixing it up again, best advice don’t stop driving it! But I’m working on fitting some heat/cool powered king ranch seats in, then I gotta redo the carpet and all that good stuff. I’ll post a video when I get the seats in, I don’t have any truck videos on the RUclips, but you were right, there isn’t info or content on the 77s it’s always 72’ or 79’ 🤣
Not a 77 grill. That is a earlier grill fits all dent sides but I remember the 77 grill because my first truck was a 77 ranger XLT f150 camper special with a 460.
Grille shell is accurate but inserts are from a 73
I had a 75 F 100 4x4 for 18 years and the steering box whine, 9 inch axle bearing failure, hard starting when cold and weak starter was aggravating.
Awesome looking truck though.
As you can tell by my name I prefer Dodge now.
I grew up in a 4 door 1978 dodge w200 power wagon that my dad bought at an auction for $600. It was a truck used on the local Air Force base for fueling. Had a 318 and np205 transfer case. I just love trucks no matter the make.
yeah I agree on sourcing parts it gets frustrating.
Iv had a real bad streak of brand new parts failing within 30 days. So frustrating!
THREE POINTS:
1. Actually, $10,000 is a good and fair price for the F150 you purchased. The 1973 - 1979 Ford "Dent Side" trucks including the second generation 1978 - 1979 Broncos sell for $40,000 - $65,000 plus in very good to excellent condition at all of the popular online sources.
2. @ 4:54 - Those appear to be Rancho (not Ranchero) 5000 series shocks. Definitely do not appear to be the Rancho 9000 series (I've had Rancho 9000 shocks)...don't see the small red adjustment knob. Furthermore, virtually all OEM shocks are junk compared to aftermarket shocks with one notable exception on new GM trucks...the Multimatic DSSV shocks (aka - dampers). However, for a long list of reasons, I would not own a Chevrolet or GMC 4WD truck newer than 1972. Not a fan of GM "Square Body" trucks and starting in 1988, GM went with IFS Axle and "low hanging" frame rails...not good on a Class 2 (2500) or Class 3 (3500) 4WD truck. IFS Axle is not as strong and trouble free as a Dana 60 Solid Front Axle...and low hanging frame rails greatly reduce the "Breakover Angle" which can and does cause the Chevrolet and GMC 4WD trucks to "high center" a small rounded knolls off-road...quite a sight to see....both hilarious and pathetic at the same time!
3. Parts Replacement comes with buying older trucks. It is hardly ever one part that fixes a particular problem on 40 to 60 year old trucks. It costs money to fix these trucks up correctly.....using NEW OEM parts in combination with some better quality aftermarket parts. LMC Truck out of Kansas City MO (Go Chiefs...ha!) is an excellent source for original OEM parts.
Hobbyist mechanics..... Lol
I got a piece of advise, if your winters are below freezing like where i live. I leave my driver window down and crawl through it in the morning. Tarp over the window to keep snow out and such.
As for the hood. There are adjustments but, loon at the spring ment to pop the hood up when you release the latch. That spring gets bent, and throws everything off.
I daily drive a 73 f250 2wd. Its a finicky little bitch, but when shes banging it all good times. Im a professional mechanic and if i didnt have 20yrs of experience, owning my old ford would be a frustrating experience.
I bought mine for $800 from a kid, it wouldnt run. I showed up with an hei dizzy, china carb and gas can with 20ft of fuel line. Ended up riding the 55mi trip home with the gas can riding shot gun and the fuel line running through the wing window.
Good times
I got a 74 almost just like it but it’s green and white. I paid 1150 dollars for it in 2013. It runs perfectly right now. Drove it about a hour ago. I upgraded the steering box is about all I’ve done. That and tires, oil changes and plenty gas. lol 390 loves gas
Times have definitely changed over the last few years! I wish I bought a bunch of these trucks back then
What steering box did you go with? I have a 74 as well
OEM steering box but id go with blue top
@@Notafordguy thanks! I’ll check it out
but the one thing you do love is your a proud owner of a dent side. pleasure to open up garage door and seein they old stud. its a 35 year love affair for me,,
Thanks for the comment. Nothing more fun that working on these old trucks. This one gets many compliments and pictures at the farmers market.
@@Notafordguy yah and they still get the longest stairs love it,😄
Multi shocks are very similar to my take on dually tires.
People tend to buy cheaper tires because they need more of them.
Buy less and buy better quality.
That's my suggestion.
Thanks for the comment iv had really good luck with the rough country shocks
I had a 1976 F 150 Dentside.
360 Automatic Full time 4x4.
I fixed all those issues. Plus many other. Got rid of it
Then I bought a Chevy .
Best fix ever 😂
Best day of my life was when I didn't have to Fix Or Repair Daily.
If it decided to start that day.
Shame on you for saying that 😂
Earlier grill? Looks good man
Yeah it’s off my dads old 1974 highboy that’s parked out in the weeds. I plan to get an early grill on my 78 bronco too. Thanks for the comment.
The issues with these fords and getting parts for them makes me want a v8 squarebody to build a sleeper . But any video i watch on the trucks makes me cringe with the rust and overall poor build quality of them. And makes me think an old smog era v8 that is hard to interchange isnt so bad after all. And I can close the hood with put it folding in half
Ford over Chevy for the 70s for sure 80s I say Chevy. I drive a 2015 Chevy 2500 so I’m definitely not loyal. There is a reason everyone puts dentside for parts in their jeep.
$10,000!?!? I must be sitting on a gold mine with my '78!😂 these things were $4,000-5,000 new. For what you paid, it should have new paint...or run.
It was supposed to have great paint and they told me I could drive it home from Arizona to Wisconsin! Obviously I got the short end of that deal but the truck serves its purpose and I can get enough of it.
@@NotafordguyYeah, you got taken. I'm from Arizona and these trucks in that shape routinely fetch sub-$7K. If it had new paint, then I could see $8-10K running or not. Rebuilding old Iron like that is pretty cheap. I did my 460 for about $1,000. Paint, body, and frame is what brings the value up. Rare options help, depending on which ones you have. Interiors are simple with repro parts like dash pad, carpet, panels and seat upholstery totaling less than $1,500 if you look in the right places.
I can say that confidently since I live below the rust belt and things last forever here. Especially if garage kept away from the sun. So, needless to say, there's an abundance of old iron running around here. especially in our smaller towns. So, if you went to Phoenix or Tucson, I can understand how that happened.
Where’d you get the 95 door seals?
Got them on eBay
1990 paid $998 for my 76 f150 only rust drivers side fender just below cowl brake fluid leak because booster was also rotten previous owner had 50,000 dot3 bottles there purchased new fender/inner fender then spent 2 years building this ford into my dream truck. goodbye 360 hello 390 with 4V intake rebuilt c6 rebuilt transfer case repainted ppg deltron basecoat/clear coat metallic ford midnight blue inside/out 2 gallons base color alone 3" body lift 4" suspension rancho shocks the rebuilt 390 got brand new holley 650cfm headers 12" glass packs 38" gumbo mudders on 15x8 aluminum slot wheels new mirrors on doors with cb whips installed aftermarket sunroof (hated it) new carpet new bucket seats on & on & on bla bla bla problem was cops would'nt leave me alone something about blacked out windows & bumpers too high many tickets & trip to court sold the truck kid that bought it rolled it days later recently talked to his sister it still sitting at the gravel pit upside down said i can have it back but don't want it
They take enough work to be fun as it. A rolled one would be way too much work! Thanks for the comment
Do you have a video of newer style of door seal you put on your bronco
I started making one but I’m not sure I uploaded it. It pushed on very easy. I made the video for the red truck around the same time I did the carpet. I can see if I can edit it into a short. Thanks for the comment.
What did you do to make it fit flat on bottom of floor door jamb area?
@@jorgelopez3922 I'm not sure there's any seal along the bottom from the factory. I restored a 73 F250 and bought the factory correct seal. I had to be set into place, then smashed by the door being closed for a long time before it was crushed into place. The bottom of the door, you's had to do the same thing... You apply a foam rubber seal, then force the door closed and let it sit until it crushes into place. Hint: If you put some grease along the non-glued side, it'll keep the foam rubber from sticking to the paint. It takes a good while for new foam rubber to smash to its working height.
parts,right...anyone see coilsprings 7700 lbs or greater
Everything rots in Wisconsin. Too much dang salt on the roads :)
$10,000 for a half ton????? you got harddddd scammed my dude
I can always make more money I won’t always be able to find a rust free truck. Thanks for the comment I appreciate it
@@Notafordguy I buy fix and sell these trucks as a side business and have for years, I purchased a local 77 f150 ext cab a few months back 1 owner not a spec of rust for $4k, I bought a 73 f250 1 owner ranger xlt highboy from washington first of the year for 5500, I bought a rust free 77 f250 4x4 custom from a guy in nashville for 7,000...... but 10 for that? with as many issues as you said? you should've shopped around more.
@@Camaron9769I need to start looking with you here in va you can’t touch a rust free Dentside for under 10k
SVYF
What does that mean?