Should subtitle the video “zen and the art of drywall maintenance.” I fought mud all the time until I finally relaxed and realized it was a process. Very helpful video. You summed up years of trial and error in a few minutes! Thank you for your videos...
Thanks 😊 it can be a relaxing project, 😆 I worked with a guy that did nothing but drywall finishing. He’d say it was like going on vacation everyday 😆 he’d smoke a joint and zone out finishing all day
man I just have to role my eyes at some of these comments. I sure hope you dont let some these negative comments discourage you from providing feed back. I've remodeled 4 bathrooms mainly learning from your videos. And I always get a little something extra when you respond to a comment. Sometimes the comment section can be just as valuable as the videos.
It can be used for that 👍 here are the plus 3 installation specs - www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/united_states/product_promotional_materials/finished_assets/sheetrock-lightweight-all-purpose-joint-compound-plus-3-application-tips-en-J1795.pdf
The soft consistency and shrinking factors make it a extremely poor choice for tape coat regardless of installation Instructions; if you follow minimum standards you will receive a minimum standard product.
If you're going to use blue lid for taping which you really shouldn't as it's significantly softer, but I understand why you might in a bathroom, then you should add a little bit of glue to help with bonding. Firstly my recommendation would be the tape with hot bud with glue in it but whatever works for you really.
People love to add glue to their mix, I never understood that. USG really knows how to make things. If they thought some elmers glue would help their product out, I'm sure they would add it.
@@avisitorhere green lid which is preferable for taping has more glue than topping compound, it's all a trade off the softer the better for sanding but worse for strength so blue lid has less adhesive. Adhesion is really important on fill coats, bedding for tape and texture. This isn't like the silly adding dish soap thing, if you care about your work it's important. If there was one best way to do it then USG would only make one type of compound. For the same reason Ford makes the Ford focus and the F-150, the best tool depends on the situation. That doesn't mean you can't drive a Ford focus through a snowstorm but you're probably going to have a bad time.
Watch out Steve … you are triggering tapers with your +3 “taping” mud. 🤣 Buy the way I use the same so they can get double triggered. So much material in this one bathroom. Quite profitable for RUclips bizz. 💪👊👍
😆 thanks 😊 I’ve yet to have a problem with blue lid….and it specifically states it can be used for taping… for me it’s the convenience. I bucket per bathroom 👍
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher I went down the USG rabbit hole long time ago. Every bucket says the same. Every bucket/mud is suitable for taping and coating according to them. I am mostly repair guy so hot-muds and plus three works for me. The ultra light one (light green lid) was a horror story as well as the “dust control” one. 🤣😵💫🤣 Bought each once out of curiosity and never again. Solid gimmick.
Hey Steve, do you ever use the 3’x1’ work platforms or do you like keeping a 4 ft ladder in there instead? I’m remodeling my hallway bathroom now and using a 4ft ladder, but I keep thinking the whole time that 2 of those work platforms would be a lot faster. Mostly due to lack of space and not having to keep moving it around so much.
I am against this taping method. Never use paper tape in a bathroom. It is organic and can attract mold. Mold loves paper. I would use fibra tape. It lays flat with no air bubbles. And never use joint compound under tape. Joint compound dries by air and putting tape over it slows the drying even more. And never use joint compound in a bathroom. If it gets wet, it turns back into gypsum. I would only use tape setting, also called hot mud compound like Durabond in a wet area. If Durabond gets wet, nothing happens to it. It sets faster and is made for going under tape since it heat cures. At a minimum, you should at least be using mold inhibiting joint compound.
@@mattcooper6677 Geez forgot about the paint. I take it all back. Paint will fix everything. I mean, why even use the purple board when you can just paint over regular drywall? Why do they even make mold inhibiting joint compound when it will be sealed with paint? The paint will fix it all.
Should subtitle the video “zen and the art of drywall maintenance.” I fought mud all the time until I finally relaxed and realized it was a process. Very helpful video. You summed up years of trial and error in a few minutes! Thank you for your videos...
Thanks 😊 it can be a relaxing project, 😆 I worked with a guy that did nothing but drywall finishing. He’d say it was like going on vacation everyday 😆 he’d smoke a joint and zone out finishing all day
You make it look so easy. For some reason mudding takes me forever.
Every time I see the Picture in Picture when your describing something in the future my mind is blown, really cool.
How do viewers buy one of those good looking t-shirts? You have a Fan club Steve! 😃😄😅
It would be cool to see a video on your story and how you learned.
Probably just doing and overtime refining
man I just have to role my eyes at some of these comments. I sure hope you dont let some these negative comments discourage you from providing feed back. I've remodeled 4 bathrooms mainly learning from your videos. And I always get a little something extra when you respond to a comment. Sometimes the comment section can be just as valuable as the videos.
If your way works for you keep doing it I just solid coat the whole ceiling when I do a smooth ceiling
Nice
First thing is I would never use light weight compound for first coat
It can be used for that 👍 here are the plus 3 installation specs - www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_Marketing_Communications/united_states/product_promotional_materials/finished_assets/sheetrock-lightweight-all-purpose-joint-compound-plus-3-application-tips-en-J1795.pdf
The soft consistency and shrinking factors make it a extremely poor choice for tape coat regardless of installation Instructions; if you follow minimum standards you will receive a minimum standard product.
@@danrichard7969 okay Richard 😆 have a good weekend 👍
You should never use plus 3 to tape with topping has more glue in it so tape with topping
If you're going to use blue lid for taping which you really shouldn't as it's significantly softer, but I understand why you might in a bathroom, then you should add a little bit of glue to help with bonding. Firstly my recommendation would be the tape with hot bud with glue in it but whatever works for you really.
People love to add glue to their mix, I never understood that. USG really knows how to make things. If they thought some elmers glue would help their product out, I'm sure they would add it.
@@avisitorhere green lid which is preferable for taping has more glue than topping compound, it's all a trade off the softer the better for sanding but worse for strength so blue lid has less adhesive. Adhesion is really important on fill coats, bedding for tape and texture. This isn't like the silly adding dish soap thing, if you care about your work it's important. If there was one best way to do it then USG would only make one type of compound. For the same reason Ford makes the Ford focus and the F-150, the best tool depends on the situation. That doesn't mean you can't drive a Ford focus through a snowstorm but you're probably going to have a bad time.
@@stich1960 so green for tape and blue for finish coat?
Great video. Have you ever used a prefill like durabond?
PLAN | LEARN | BUILD 👍👍👍
Watch out Steve … you are triggering tapers with your +3 “taping” mud. 🤣 Buy the way I use the same so they can get double triggered. So much material in this one bathroom. Quite profitable for RUclips bizz. 💪👊👍
😆 thanks 😊 I’ve yet to have a problem with blue lid….and it specifically states it can be used for taping… for me it’s the convenience. I bucket per bathroom 👍
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher I went down the USG rabbit hole long time ago. Every bucket says the same. Every bucket/mud is suitable for taping and coating according to them. I am mostly repair guy so hot-muds and plus three works for me. The ultra light one (light green lid) was a horror story as well as the “dust control” one. 🤣😵💫🤣 Bought each once out of curiosity and never again. Solid gimmick.
Hey Steve, do you ever use the 3’x1’ work platforms or do you like keeping a 4 ft ladder in there instead? I’m remodeling my hallway bathroom now and using a 4ft ladder, but I keep thinking the whole time that 2 of those work platforms would be a lot faster. Mostly due to lack of space and not having to keep moving it around so much.
I have not. I’ve actually always wanted one….might purchase for next full remodel. Much better that 2 x 12s 👍
That is a lot of mud bud lol
Bud loves mud 😆
I am against this taping method. Never use paper tape in a bathroom. It is organic and can attract mold. Mold loves paper. I would use fibra tape. It lays flat with no air bubbles. And never use joint compound under tape. Joint compound dries by air and putting tape over it slows the drying even more. And never use joint compound in a bathroom. If it gets wet, it turns back into gypsum. I would only use tape setting, also called hot mud compound like Durabond in a wet area. If Durabond gets wet, nothing happens to it. It sets faster and is made for going under tape since it heat cures. At a minimum, you should at least be using mold inhibiting joint compound.
Did you miss the part where he primed and painted the walls? Pretty sure that’s gonna protect the joint compound you’re so concerned about
@@mattcooper6677 Geez forgot about the paint. I take it all back. Paint will fix everything. I mean, why even use the purple board when you can just paint over regular drywall? Why do they even make mold inhibiting joint compound when it will be sealed with paint? The paint will fix it all.