Fantastic base! For those of us that don't have the equipment or are not up to par with Marco's technique (like me), I find that a simple way of creating an ice base is to use transparent crackle paste. You paint the base with swirls of blue and white, let it dry and then put on top a decent amount of crackle paste. Crackle paste usually cracks from the center outwards, which is what you want. Make sure you get crackle paste and not crackle medium like I did. Transparent crackle paste is white to begin with but when dry it is transparent.
Thanks 😁!!! Of course 😉 I love making little scenes and dioramas and I was lucky to grow near railroad and historical modellers so I know a lot of tricks like these
Finally a Marco vid that didn't entirely shake up my technique! It's brilliant, achieves exactly the look and durability needed. BUT mate, whilst I'll use it every single time I base a figure on a frozen river or a glacier there's just no way I can base troops this way! Even production lining it, reducing the cracked layers to two, using foil to make 20 moulds and accepting I'll need to sand the edges to smooth rounds this would never be a troop base process! One offs, tthree offs, definitely for display models and a glacier themed project but there's just too much work. With different colouring it is also the answer to how I'm going to remake the middles of the extradimensional portal terrain bits that didn't come out right! Reality fractured, the veil rent and shattered! Plus I'm so glad I didn't throw out my collection of audio cassettes from the eighties yet - they will go in the bin but the clear parts of the boxes now have a purpose!
Really great technique. It also works in a not so spectacular but faster and easier way without resin which I used for one model in a winter themed army I'm painting right now. I've painted the base including the edge in various blue tones like you and glued cut plastic pieces with super glue on that. On the plastic ice I put some thin acrylic snow from AK (Snow Sprinkles) to achieve a frosting effect.
I'm big into water effects - absolutely love using water effects on the bases and you just opened my eyes to new tools like those silicon moulds ! Thank you for that! also: brilliant looking ice base, love the zombie hand coming out of it !!!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM I used Vallejo Water Texture (Still Water) on this base, to create a swamp theme: www.flickr.com/photos/gumochlon/46792423785/in/album-72157667612586649/ If I had one of those moulds that would make the swamp even better :)
A great tutorial, as always! I have some questions : 1. Why are you using the Molotov range? How is it different from others? 2. In an old comment, you said you would do Sisters of Battle when they were available ........ There is one in preparation? 3. Where did the Night Goblins / Squig go on your shelf? Will we see them soon in a video / tutorial? : D 4. Can we have a concrete example of what is in your Patreon? And now ............. I appreciate the way you mount your videos and share your enthusiasm, it is a plus that is missing from many other painters! Keep smiling !
Thanks a million buddy 😉! 1- they are made for street art and wall painting so they are super fluid, opaque and resistant. 2- yes, I have plans for when everybody will be able to buy them😉😉😉 3- they were a commission and they are in they new home. No tutorial specifically about them because I had to work fast, but I'll definitely do something about their race 4- you can find all the details explained in my Patreon page Thanks a million again! I'll never loose the enthusiasm don't worry 😊😉😊
timestamp 11:07 Marco "I'm pretty satisfied...." You are the Master of understatement bro; that's an amazing base!!!!!! Awe inspiring tutorial as always :)
Forgive the pun but this is super cool! I love the whole "cut the plastic with a curved scissors" trick and taking advantage of the cracks that form. Pretty genius :)
sorry for the typo must still have Mario bros on the brain when I played against my nephew! The idea is a German 2 man patrol trying to avoid being spotted by a vehicle on a raised road desperately running across a frozen stream and one of them falling through the ice. Ps your vid on the colour wheel has really changed my mind on colour theory.
Hi Marco, first of all thanks for your tuto, it's amazing! the best ice base that i ever seen before. One question, where can I buy the transparent plastic? Any webpage? thanks!
Incredible job! It is the best looking I have found on the net. Just one question, how do you do for polishing the edge in case you want it traslucent?
Thanks a million! For polishing and refining resin I use Tamiya polishing compound; it's a set of three products with increasingly finer grits usually use to refine clear plastic and make it transparent after cutting and sanding 😊
Fantastic video, Marco! loved the final look! Could I use this fishing line method to make less 'droppish' water details as well? Having a thicker stream of water instead of some drops that lead to the flying ice
Thanks a million! Oh yeah totally: The drops are formed when you put gently just a little amount of glue on the fishing line but it's so dense that you can easily "sculpt" bigger and more complex shapes. Also epoxy is completely dry in 5 minutes so you can quickly add new material
Another trick is to make the fishing line drops before hand. Cut short sections of line, dip them in your medium of choice (including regular arcylic medium) and let dry while hanging. This puts the drop at the bottom of the line where gravity will cause it to form a natural drop shape. Then trim to length and glue in place. I've used this technique before to really build up heavy streams, too.
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Thanks , I have yet to conquer the ink shelf. I LOVE how you create turquoise, green and other blues with the liquidtex inks. I have to learn how to apply these skills towards military modelling. Thank you very much for the reply, I was curious of their medium! Your videos are some of the very best on RUclips!
@@worldwarmini3919 Thank you soooo much!!! Inks are usually very saturated but you can always mix them like any other color to obtain more subtle tones for military modelling (and now the range of available tones is huge so there's something for every possible need!). They can have interesting applications on vehicles...
great video, and fantastic results!! Question... what do you do with the upstanding edge, an how can u pollish the side for a more see through effect? Kind regards
Hi Marco. Reviewing this great tutorial of yours, I was asking me if when you finish an awesome miniature like this, did you varnish to protect them? I had some bad experiences with spray matte varnish (vallejo and citadel), because they ruin all the shiny parts of the mini. The shine literally goes off, especially the one of metal paints. Do you have some trick to avoid this? I want to varnish them because I use to play with them and even in foam cases some paint can scracht and disapear causing some necessary retouches, and this is what I want to avoid. Thank you so much.
Hi! No, I never use varnish at the end. Sadly varnish is just another layer of paint and it creates extra mass and volume on the models that make scratches even easier. And as you pointed out the loss in quality is massive covering the different finishes and the depth of the paint with a uniform layer. Modern acrylics especially in the formulations for the hobby are pretty tough and they don't really fear the touch during a game but you can definitely increase the strength with a good primer/base layer (that's why I use Molotow paints, made for street art and murals!) and (this is the best thing I ever made for my models) switch to a magnetic carry case; foam is really terrible against even the toughest of paintjobs
I have a feeling that the art of bases is a bit underrated. Loved the video! I don't have any minis that are in any way tied tith water but your but I am dying to try out the things you talked about so might as well just buy some.
😊Y eah It's something that wargamers in particular tend to not consider enough but a very basic model can become awesome with a bit of effort on its base and even the best paintjob can disappear on the battlefield without an interesting base.
That's... um... cool! Was there a reason why you didn't cut off the edge of the top surface, where surface tension caused the water effect to creep up the side of the mould?
😁 The effect is very difficult to see in person in its natural size and it didn't bother me (and it's a huge annoying task for a very little gait if you plan to use these as gaming bases). I usually sand it off on display bases!
When I made this the broken plastic "ice" inside the resin became invisible - I ended up with a transparent blue disc with a few bubbles. I think my mistake *& a really important point to success* is to make sure you use a lot of superglue when glueing the shards together. I used only a dot for each. You need a good covering of superglue to see the white inside. Marco, Do you have any advice about this? I dont want to waste all my resin experimenting.
Yeah definitely don't be shy with the super glue because its crystals between the layers of plastic are a big part of the texture and the ice sensation. Also if your plastic is new and perfectly transparent you can add scratches and extra textures using sandpaper on the surface
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Thank you! I'll do this next time. This is the best ice base ive ever seen, such a cool idea! I can't wait to use it for the Dai Re'Coon ice demons I got from ralPartha.
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM A photo of the finished bases! Thanks again, they turned out well :-) drive.google.com/file/d/1-qUxfooJhX9djnQ_vrtHKVEWyPB3VDQi/view?usp=sharing
Awesome video (like most I see here), but the qeustion is - What kind of mini I can put on that base, to avoid ruining that awesome effect? Or is that base made just for video tutorial purpose, and you would set it different for the sake of adding actual mini to this base?
Sei un grande Marco! Davvero bravo! Hai in mente un tutorial per le basette a tema giungla in futuro? Non sono ancora riuscito a trovare qualcosa di soddisfacente per la mia armata di lizardmen/seraphon
I am in the process of putting together and painting Necromunda Dark Uprising terrain. I want to eventually do a toxic puddle effect with the zone mortallis hard bases that I must but separately. I bet this same technique minus the plastic and using a glowing green paint instead will work well.
I am actually doing this same exact effect for my legions of nagash army. However, nagash and vlozd are on 130mm bases. Do you know where I can find a big enough mold and also, what plastic did you use? Thickness wise? Thank you!
Could I ask how much resin you used for 1 base? How many bases can you make with the resin? 180ml doesnt seem like a lot. if it was 10 ml a base it would only be 18 bases - is that correct?
I put around 12ml in the mixing cup and I made two bases with a little bit of leftover to check the drying resin. This base is quite thick but in general for a gaming base you don't need to see through the lateral side, you just wany a thin layer on the top to simulate the upper surface of ice/water
Hey: i really love that video! and of course i'llt ry to copy it for my army... but just one question... how would you try to make an effect of a 'massive' ice-base? painting with lighter colours?
Thanks! This is a lovely effect indeed; Now I just need a mini to rpovide an excuse to try this... :-) Do you have a link for the silicon mould you've used to pour the water effect in?
Hello Marco! I was wondering if ethanol would do the same job as methylated spirits. I can't find m.spirits here where I live, but ethanol is easy enough to find at a gas station. Would it do the trick?
Ciao Marco,perdona se ti farò una domanda poco inerente con il video.... Ho iniziato da pochissimo,insieme alla mia ragazza,ad approcciarmi a dipingere gli oggetti e le action figure che stampo(sia in fdm che in resina)ed abbiamo notato la poca resistenza del colore anche ai piccoli urti.So che ci sono delle finiture da poter dare per aggiungere resistenza ma vorrei evitare le bombolette...costano una fucilata in proporzione al materiale presente.Tu cosa mi consiglieresti? Grazie in anticipo
Ciao, nessun problema 😊 Secondo me state sbagliando primer e/o tipo di colori (o il tipo di resina non li regge bene); io non uso nessun tipo di protettivo nemmeno per pezzi da gioco (anche di metallo) che vengono maneggiati continuamente e senza nessuna delicatezza 😅 e non succede mai che il colore si rovini. Gli acrilici di adesso sono resistentissimi se hanno sotto una superficie pulita e un primer appropriato
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM grazie della risposta!In effetti i primi tentativi sono stati fatti dando prima un fondo riempitivo(quello avevo a portata di mano) ed i colori citadel ma non erano molto resistenti....l'altro giorno è stato dipinto un oogie boogie usando un fondo per plastiche (quello della maurer in bomboletta...roba economica)ed i citadel...ed in effetti sembrano molto più resistenti.Evidentemente questo fondo aggrappa meglio il colore su di sé.
Thanks for your helpful video Marco but, please please please, DON'T USE ANY FLAME ON RESIN!! it's flammable and dangerous, vapors from that are too! I don't want to bother, i'm really sorry, but please, keep in mind that young people maybe are watching your videos and with some tools and products you have to prioritize safety a little, it's very important. ( anyway, best way to remove bubbles is blowing with a straw ;) ) Thanks again for your interesting contents!
Could you just brush the water epoxy over the plastic? Possibly in several layers? I ask for a larger base that is not round and in which I would like the effect on the vertical edges as well.
Brushing the epoxy is not a great option because it's almost impossible to stop its flow especially on the edges. The best way is to create an armature around the base to contain the pour of resin; simple plasticard is a great material to make a little temporary box easy to build and take apart when the resin is dry. Round bases are the most complicated but for a squared base it's a super easy job!
Bel video. Mi chiedevo, nei tuoi link associati c'è un nastro di butile che immagino serva per fare da sigillante e da recipiente quando devi versare la resina. Ma quello che usi te nel video è diverso. Dove si trova?
Grazie!!! Il nastro di butile è quello che uso all'inizio del video per attaccare la basetta al plinto quando spruzzo stile bluetack! Lo stampo a misura di basetta lo trovi su GreenstuffWorld 😊
Great video! I wanted to do something like this for a river I'm using for an ice battlefield. The only challenge is where I can find that plastic for the ice. Any suggestions?
anyone have a link to get a bunch of 32mm and 40mm of these? can only find the ones in packs of 15mm-60mm when we only need most likely the 32mm and 40mm.
Fantastic base! For those of us that don't have the equipment or are not up to par with Marco's technique (like me), I find that a simple way of creating an ice base is to use transparent crackle paste. You paint the base with swirls of blue and white, let it dry and then put on top a decent amount of crackle paste. Crackle paste usually cracks from the center outwards, which is what you want. Make sure you get crackle paste and not crackle medium like I did. Transparent crackle paste is white to begin with but when dry it is transparent.
Very cool idea!!!
Che figata pazzesca! Grande Marco
😁😁😁 Grazie!!!
easily the best hobby youtuber! thanks!!!!
😁😍😁😍😁😍😁 Thanks a million man!!!
I loved this. More stuff like this! This is the kind of stuff you find in model train tutorials and more wargamers need to know about it
Thanks 😁!!! Of course 😉 I love making little scenes and dioramas and I was lucky to grow near railroad and historical modellers so I know a lot of tricks like these
Finally a Marco vid that didn't entirely shake up my technique!
It's brilliant, achieves exactly the look and durability needed.
BUT mate, whilst I'll use it every single time I base a figure on a frozen river or a glacier there's just no way I can base troops this way!
Even production lining it, reducing the cracked layers to two, using foil to make 20 moulds and accepting I'll need to sand the edges to smooth rounds this would never be a troop base process! One offs, tthree offs, definitely for display models and a glacier themed project but there's just too much work.
With different colouring it is also the answer to how I'm going to remake the middles of the extradimensional portal terrain bits that didn't come out right! Reality fractured, the veil rent and shattered!
Plus I'm so glad I didn't throw out my collection of audio cassettes from the eighties yet - they will go in the bin but the clear parts of the boxes now have a purpose!
Mind you, as Trashboat already said, more stuff like this!
Wooow, preaty creative keep it on with those awesome tecnics and love the squaro and the biger WWR figure in the back ground
You're a mystic. I just bought some Mawtribes and was looking for this. Awesome stuff!
😍 I love it when a plan comes together! An army based in this way will be spectacular!!! They seem a lot steps but it's pretty fast and easy
Absolutely amazing! I want to try this today. I am going to try this today.
😍 Keep me updated!!!
So clever and aesthetically compelling.
😊😁😊
Well done
Another vid to add to my "must show everyone" list. Love the result!
😁😍😘
Awesome job. Thanks for sharing Marco
Thanks to you!!! It's a pleasure ;)
Really great technique. It also works in a not so spectacular but faster and easier way without resin which I used for one model in a winter themed army I'm painting right now. I've painted the base including the edge in various blue tones like you and glued cut plastic pieces with super glue on that. On the plastic ice I put some thin acrylic snow from AK (Snow Sprinkles) to achieve a frosting effect.
Epic!
😉 Thanks buddy 😊!!!
So glad see you complimenting each other
@@ManfrediMori 😊😉😊 Emil is a friend 😊
Sei un mito 👏🏻👏🏻🙏🏻
😊😊😊😘
Awesome tutorial Marco 👍🏻
Never thought of that way to do the ice effect 🤔
Ty m8 😃
Thanks a million!!! And they seem a lot of steps but everything is really really fast on the table :)
Absolutely fantastic. Thank you so much
Absolutely superb!
😍😍😍 Thanks!!!
what a cool piece, i love it
I'm big into water effects - absolutely love using water effects on the bases and you just opened my eyes to new tools like those silicon moulds ! Thank you for that!
also: brilliant looking ice base, love the zombie hand coming out of it !!!
😍😊😍
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM I used Vallejo Water Texture (Still Water) on this base, to create a swamp theme:
www.flickr.com/photos/gumochlon/46792423785/in/album-72157667612586649/
If I had one of those moulds that would make the swamp even better :)
This is some of the best I've I've seen.
Thanks!!! And on a larger base with some more depth it can look even better
genius! Fantastic work !
😍😍😍 Thanks man!!!
A great tutorial, as always!
I have some questions :
1. Why are you using the Molotov range? How is it different from others?
2. In an old comment, you said you would do Sisters of Battle when they were available ........ There is one in preparation?
3. Where did the Night Goblins / Squig go on your shelf? Will we see them soon in a video / tutorial? : D
4. Can we have a concrete example of what is in your Patreon?
And now ............. I appreciate the way you mount your videos and share your enthusiasm, it is a plus that is missing from many other painters! Keep smiling !
Thanks a million buddy 😉!
1- they are made for street art and wall painting so they are super fluid, opaque and resistant.
2- yes, I have plans for when everybody will be able to buy them😉😉😉
3- they were a commission and they are in they new home. No tutorial specifically about them because I had to work fast, but I'll definitely do something about their race
4- you can find all the details explained in my Patreon page
Thanks a million again! I'll never loose the enthusiasm don't worry 😊😉😊
timestamp 11:07 Marco "I'm pretty satisfied...." You are the Master of understatement bro; that's an amazing base!!!!!! Awe inspiring tutorial as always :)
😂😂😂 at the end I always realise that I could have done something better
So many great tips thank for sharing with us lesser modellers 😎👌
Brilliant 👍😎👍
Great work - thanks for sharing!
😍 Thanks a million to you!!!
When I first saw these I thought they were made of only resin. Awesome job.
Thanks a million man!
splendido canale di nuove idee e uso creativo dei materiali, da seguire con assiduità
😍😍😍😍😍 Grazie mille!!!
Amazing job brother. Very well done
this is so cool! thank you so much! i will have to try this one day!
Wow this looks amazing! The best ice base I have seen in a long time! Thanks for the video!
😍😁😍😁
wow this is really amazing work!
Thanks a million buddy!!!
Forgive the pun but this is super cool! I love the whole "cut the plastic with a curved scissors" trick and taking advantage of the cracks that form. Pretty genius :)
Haha!! Witty!
😂😂😂 Don't worry I used it even in the description 😂 Thanks man!
Just Awesome! You´re an artist!! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks a million to you 😊😍!!!
Fantastic video. Love the effect. However what plastic is that? You said scrap plastic but from what?
Thanks!!! It was the "glass" of an IKEA's frame 😅
That's epic! I had another method in my mind but I this is my new plan for a cutiemals bloodbowl team awesome stuff !!!! Subscribed !
Bravo!
Amazing art!
😍😁😍😁
This earned my subscription
Great tutorial, thanks for all the great videos and please keep it up :)
Thanks a million!!! Don't worry this is only the beginning 😉😊😉
Love it!
Top ❤
Great stuff Mario. Especially love the splash effect. Gives me incentive for a WW2 diorama I've had in mind for a few years.
Thanks! I'm already curious to see the result Ps. it's Marco lol 😅
sorry for the typo must still have Mario bros on the brain when I played against my nephew! The idea is a German 2 man patrol trying to avoid being spotted by a vehicle on a raised road desperately running across a frozen stream and one of them falling through the ice. Ps your vid on the colour wheel has really changed my mind on colour theory.
@@pontiac6548 😂 Don't worry at all! Awesome idea, very dynamic and full of tension it can really be an incredible diorama
O M G
Yet again, another great tutorial! Love ya man!
Thanks a million buddy!!!
Hi Marco, first of all thanks for your tuto, it's amazing! the best ice base that i ever seen before. One question, where can I buy the transparent plastic? Any webpage? thanks!
Wish I knew to
This is simply amazing, thanks for sharing it.
May I ask, when you placed the base in the 40mm mould and added the resin, did the resin fill the gap under the mould?
Hello.
Where did you find the silicone containers for the artificial water on the pedestals?
sorry for my English
Hi! They come from GreenstuffWorld 😉
Incredible job! It is the best looking I have found on the net. Just one question, how do you do for polishing the edge in case you want it traslucent?
Thanks a million! For polishing and refining resin I use Tamiya polishing compound; it's a set of three products with increasingly finer grits usually use to refine clear plastic and make it transparent after cutting and sanding 😊
Fantastic video, Marco! loved the final look!
Could I use this fishing line method to make less 'droppish' water details as well? Having a thicker stream of water instead of some drops that lead to the flying ice
Thanks a million! Oh yeah totally: The drops are formed when you put gently just a little amount of glue on the fishing line but it's so dense that you can easily "sculpt" bigger and more complex shapes. Also epoxy is completely dry in 5 minutes so you can quickly add new material
Another trick is to make the fishing line drops before hand. Cut short sections of line, dip them in your medium of choice (including regular arcylic medium) and let dry while hanging. This puts the drop at the bottom of the line where gravity will cause it to form a natural drop shape. Then trim to length and glue in place. I've used this technique before to really build up heavy streams, too.
Do you thin INKS before airbrushing them? If so with what ? GREAT VIDEO
I use them from straight from the bottle to 90% thinned depending on the work and the technique I'm doing. I use simple airbrush thinner 😊
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Thanks , I have yet to conquer the ink shelf. I LOVE how you create turquoise, green and other blues with the liquidtex inks. I have to learn how to apply these skills towards military modelling. Thank you very much for the reply, I was curious of their medium! Your videos are some of the very best on RUclips!
@@worldwarmini3919 Thank you soooo much!!! Inks are usually very saturated but you can always mix them like any other color to obtain more subtle tones for military modelling (and now the range of available tones is huge so there's something for every possible need!). They can have interesting applications on vehicles...
This is epic!!
😁😁😁
awesome man! so glad i found your channel.
😁 Thanks 😉!!!
fantastico! grazie mille :-)
😊😁😊
great video, and fantastic results!!
Question... what do you do with the upstanding edge, an how can u pollish the side for a more see through effect?
Kind regards
Excellent as usual ;)
Can't let you guys down 😊😁
Clever of you to take advantage of some of the less desired effects of superglue (frosting and crazing...) to get a desired outcome. Very nice stuff.
Thanks a million 😊😊😊😁!
Hi Marco. Reviewing this great tutorial of yours, I was asking me if when you finish an awesome miniature like this, did you varnish to protect them? I had some bad experiences with spray matte varnish (vallejo and citadel), because they ruin all the shiny parts of the mini. The shine literally goes off, especially the one of metal paints. Do you have some trick to avoid this? I want to varnish them because I use to play with them and even in foam cases some paint can scracht and disapear causing some necessary retouches, and this is what I want to avoid. Thank you so much.
Hi! No, I never use varnish at the end. Sadly varnish is just another layer of paint and it creates extra mass and volume on the models that make scratches even easier. And as you pointed out the loss in quality is massive covering the different finishes and the depth of the paint with a uniform layer. Modern acrylics especially in the formulations for the hobby are pretty tough and they don't really fear the touch during a game but you can definitely increase the strength with a good primer/base layer (that's why I use Molotow paints, made for street art and murals!) and (this is the best thing I ever made for my models) switch to a magnetic carry case; foam is really terrible against even the toughest of paintjobs
Thank you so much for the tip Marco. I have to explore the magnetic case and the primer coat.
I have a feeling that the art of bases is a bit underrated. Loved the video! I don't have any minis that are in any way tied tith water but your but I am dying to try out the things you talked about so might as well just buy some.
😊Y eah It's something that wargamers in particular tend to not consider enough but a very basic model can become awesome with a bit of effort on its base and even the best paintjob can disappear on the battlefield without an interesting base.
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Is there a chance to see what did you put on this base? Or was it standalone?
@@ceebee3083 this base is a stand alone project but also an experiment for a display model I'm working on in this moment. I hope to show him soon 😊
Ma quanto voli? Super top quality content
Cioè ormai sei uno youtuber professionista
@@diegolerro569 hahaha ciao!!! Grazie 😊 Sta andando bene e settimana dopo settimana ci prendo sempre più gusto 😋 ho grandi piani per l'anno nuovo!!!
How long would the the process take on a bigger 2 layered base? Middle being the effect just seen here but the surrounding area much thinner.
That's... um... cool! Was there a reason why you didn't cut off the edge of the top surface, where surface tension caused the water effect to creep up the side of the mould?
😁 The effect is very difficult to see in person in its natural size and it didn't bother me (and it's a huge annoying task for a very little gait if you plan to use these as gaming bases). I usually sand it off on display bases!
Where can I find the silicone base molds for the resin? Those are great!
They are from GreenStuff World!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM awesome! Thank you very much. Your basing tutorials and guide are wonderful. They have helped me push myself to try them out myself.
When I made this the broken plastic "ice" inside the resin became invisible - I ended up with a transparent blue disc with a few bubbles. I think my mistake *& a really important point to success* is to make sure you use a lot of superglue when glueing the shards together. I used only a dot for each. You need a good covering of superglue to see the white inside.
Marco, Do you have any advice about this? I dont want to waste all my resin experimenting.
Yeah definitely don't be shy with the super glue because its crystals between the layers of plastic are a big part of the texture and the ice sensation. Also if your plastic is new and perfectly transparent you can add scratches and extra textures using sandpaper on the surface
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Thank you! I'll do this next time. This is the best ice base ive ever seen, such a cool idea!
I can't wait to use it for the Dai Re'Coon ice demons I got from ralPartha.
@@ex-voto It's a pleasure 😊😊😊!!! Cool, send me some pictures when they are ready!!!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM A photo of the finished bases! Thanks again, they turned out well :-)
drive.google.com/file/d/1-qUxfooJhX9djnQ_vrtHKVEWyPB3VDQi/view?usp=sharing
Awesome video (like most I see here), but the qeustion is - What kind of mini I can put on that base, to avoid ruining that awesome effect? Or is that base made just for video tutorial purpose, and you would set it different for the sake of adding actual mini to this base?
Thanks! With a simple pin in a foot of the model you can put everything on a base like this and it will be extremely solid!
Sensacional 👏👏
😍
Question if you where to bump this base up to display standard what more would you do with it?
Sei un grande Marco! Davvero bravo! Hai in mente un tutorial per le basette a tema giungla in futuro? Non sono ancora riuscito a trovare qualcosa di soddisfacente per la mia armata di lizardmen/seraphon
😍😍😍 Grazie 😊!!! Oh sí! E sto collezionando dei prodottini interessanti da usare 😉
MarcoFrisoniNJM musica per le mie orecchie! 😍
Genius
What did you use to dye that resin and epoxy?
I am in the process of putting together and painting Necromunda Dark Uprising terrain. I want to eventually do a toxic puddle effect with the zone mortallis hard bases that I must but separately. I bet this same technique minus the plastic and using a glowing green paint instead will work well.
I am actually doing this same exact effect for my legions of nagash army. However, nagash and vlozd are on 130mm bases. Do you know where I can find a big enough mold and also, what plastic did you use? Thickness wise? Thank you!
Прикольный голос 👍
Lol, I need a translation but I have the feeling that's something nice 😁😂😁
Subbed this is just epic !
Thanks a million fo the support 😊😁😘
Masta!!!
😍😘
What FW ink is that you use?
Where can i buy that plastic please!
Could I ask how much resin you used for 1 base?
How many bases can you make with the resin? 180ml doesnt seem like a lot. if it was 10 ml a base it would only be 18 bases - is that correct?
I put around 12ml in the mixing cup and I made two bases with a little bit of leftover to check the drying resin.
This base is quite thick but in general for a gaming base you don't need to see through the lateral side, you just wany a thin layer on the top to simulate the upper surface of ice/water
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM gunna have to buy a fair few for a whole army. Thanks heaps!
Subbed, very nice technique here! Plus you look like we would’ve hung out in high school, lol.
😁😁😁😁😁😁😊
Hey: i really love that video! and of course i'llt ry to copy it for my army... but just one question... how would you try to make an effect of a 'massive' ice-base? painting with lighter colours?
great tutorial!
Thanks!!!
Thanks! This is a lovely effect indeed; Now I just need a mini to rpovide an excuse to try this... :-) Do you have a link for the silicon mould you've used to pour the water effect in?
Thanks a million 😊😊😊! They come from GreenStuffWorld.com Keep me updated on the experiments 😁
Thank you very much! May I ask where did you get your silicone mold for the base?
Thanks to you 😁! Here's the link 😊 www.greenstuffworld.com/en/inicio/1074-containment-moulds-for-bases-round.html
Hello Marco!
I was wondering if ethanol would do the same job as methylated spirits. I can't find m.spirits here where I live, but ethanol is easy enough to find at a gas station. Would it do the trick?
Do you have a link for these silicon forms? Great vid
Thanks!!! Here's the link! www.greenstuffworld.com/en/inicio/1074-containment-moulds-for-bases-round.html
MarcoFrisoniNJM Hi Marco, you mentioned the molds make the edges a little cloudy, but it is easy to polish. How would you polish the sides?
@@TristanChaika I use Tamiya polishing compound! It's used to polish transparent plastic and it's perfect for the job. I'll make a video about it ;)
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Awesome, I look forward to it, as I look forward to all your vids. Great work!
Grazie Marcuzzo! Sei sempre il migliore!
P.S. Sono Moreno su FB, quello che rompe i beccucci col Vortex Mixer :'D
😁 Grazie! E non rompi mai, è sempre un piacerone 😊
Wow
IS there any specific place to get that plastic cover ?
Mine was the "glass" of a cheap frame but any kind of transparent plastic can do the job
Ciao Marco,perdona se ti farò una domanda poco inerente con il video....
Ho iniziato da pochissimo,insieme alla mia ragazza,ad approcciarmi a dipingere gli oggetti e le action figure che stampo(sia in fdm che in resina)ed abbiamo notato la poca resistenza del colore anche ai piccoli urti.So che ci sono delle finiture da poter dare per aggiungere resistenza ma vorrei evitare le bombolette...costano una fucilata in proporzione al materiale presente.Tu cosa mi consiglieresti?
Grazie in anticipo
Ciao, nessun problema 😊 Secondo me state sbagliando primer e/o tipo di colori (o il tipo di resina non li regge bene); io non uso nessun tipo di protettivo nemmeno per pezzi da gioco (anche di metallo) che vengono maneggiati continuamente e senza nessuna delicatezza 😅 e non succede mai che il colore si rovini. Gli acrilici di adesso sono resistentissimi se hanno sotto una superficie pulita e un primer appropriato
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM grazie della risposta!In effetti i primi tentativi sono stati fatti dando prima un fondo riempitivo(quello avevo a portata di mano) ed i colori citadel ma non erano molto resistenti....l'altro giorno è stato dipinto un oogie boogie usando un fondo per plastiche (quello della maurer in bomboletta...roba economica)ed i citadel...ed in effetti sembrano molto più resistenti.Evidentemente questo fondo aggrappa meglio il colore su di sé.
Thanks for your helpful video Marco but, please please please, DON'T USE ANY FLAME ON RESIN!! it's flammable and dangerous, vapors from that are too! I don't want to bother, i'm really sorry, but please, keep in mind that young people maybe are watching your videos and with some tools and products you have to prioritize safety a little, it's very important.
( anyway, best way to remove bubbles is blowing with a straw ;) )
Thanks again for your interesting contents!
10:46 to hide junctions can I use vallejo still water instead of water gel?
Still water is very fluid and tends to level itself so it can be tricky to use for this work
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Ok, I'll try some water gel! Thanks.
Nice. :-)
;)
Could you just brush the water epoxy over the plastic? Possibly in several layers? I ask for a larger base that is not round and in which I would like the effect on the vertical edges as well.
Brushing the epoxy is not a great option because it's almost impossible to stop its flow especially on the edges. The best way is to create an armature around the base to contain the pour of resin; simple plasticard is a great material to make a little temporary box easy to build and take apart when the resin is dry. Round bases are the most complicated but for a squared base it's a super easy job!
Bel video. Mi chiedevo, nei tuoi link associati c'è un nastro di butile che immagino serva per fare da sigillante e da recipiente quando devi versare la resina. Ma quello che usi te nel video è diverso. Dove si trova?
Grazie!!! Il nastro di butile è quello che uso all'inizio del video per attaccare la basetta al plinto quando spruzzo stile bluetack! Lo stampo a misura di basetta lo trovi su GreenstuffWorld 😊
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Grazie. La mia brutta abitudine di saltare le parti iniziali del video si è ritorta contro.
@@federico1263 😂😂😂
Federico galdenzi да! Так и есть!)) ничего не понял, но да!)
( Yes! That’s true! Don’t understand anything, but yes!) )
what type of plastic is it as i cant find any as rigid as used in the tutorial. All the ones i find are too bendy. pls HELP!
More than likely it's polystyrene, the same stuff used to make tic-tac mint boxes.
Great video! I wanted to do something like this for a river I'm using for an ice battlefield. The only challenge is where I can find that plastic for the ice. Any suggestions?
anyone have a link to get a bunch of 32mm and 40mm of these? can only find the ones in packs of 15mm-60mm when we only need most likely the 32mm and 40mm.
Does anyone know how to get ones hand on these silicone molds? Cant find anything like it anywhere.
They are from Green stuff world!
@@MarcoFrisoniNJM Thanks a bunch. Amazing work on the ice effect.Helped me out big time :D