UPDATE- Hey guys, thank you for watching this video...if this has helped you out in any way please SUBSCRIBE, press that LIKE BUTTON and leave a COMMENT. Please check out these links that may SOLVE YOUR NO START ISSUES. amzn.to/3tvM0jd amzn.to/3xUrWKX amzn.to/3uuLxiA amzn.to/3erjviy Analyze your car issues and ERROR codes and clear them with this Amazingly accurate yet inexpensive OBD2 SCANNER- amzn.to/33rovxg Wireless Scanner amzn.to/3nYbjtb Test your Battery and Alternator amzn.to/2QWtGCU If you would like to help this channel, your donations are appreciated. Cashapp- $PeterLCG Venmo- PeterLCG THANK YOU
Peter L... You are misinforming people on starter status. I work at an AutoZone in Florida. AutoZone does not sell REBUILT starters or alternators. AutoZone sells new and remanufactured starters and alternators. There is a huge difference. Let me correct you on this matter. 1. A rebuilt starter or alternator is exactly what you said. Only the bad parts are replaced. 2. A remanufactured starter or alternator , on the other hand, has ALL the parts replaced with new parts, EXCEPT FOR, the casings. You are essentially getting a new starter or alternator with a used casing. That is way better than getting a rebuilt one. 3. Even a Completely NEW one can be faulty or malfunction early on. Most people don't know that a starter or alternator can be accidentally dropped multiple times before it ever makes it to a shelf to be sold. That can damage it. They can be assembled poorly or incorrectly, if the assembly line isn't calibrated or malfunctions. It happens. I bought a bad fuel pump once and found out that the manufacturer recalled that entire shipment of 500,000 bad pumps that were shipped out. I'm willing to bet your 2nd replacement will last a long time. If it doesn't, then you probably have a more problematic issue causing the starter to die early on. Damaged wires, damaged flexplate/flywheel, misalignment, etc can all kill a starter in no time. I've been working on cars for 31 years and I'm a certified parts expert with several certs in the automotive repair field. If you ever have any questions, please reach out to me anytime you want to. Knowledge is power and now you know. Sincerely, The Grapevine Master TECH, aka, HondaGuyKyle
I saw a video where the guy bought a negative battery cable and plugged it in the starter supposedly the connection is not great and with time it gives you these types of problems Hope it helps
So it was definitely the starter right? I'm having the same issues with my '17 Dodge Journey... "1 click, no crank". The car started an ran fine & then all the sudden..."click". I have my suspicions that it is indeed the starter, because like you described, all of my lights, (inside and out), work fine, as does my radio & climate control. My key fob has a low battery, but there's ways around that issue to get the car started...so that's not the issue. Anybody else having, or has had a similar issue, please let me know know how you fixed it, thanks.
@@AppleMakili would recommend buying a new starter n wire that goes from starter to battery. Sadly with these cars that the main issue is the wire to the starter. Good luck
If your trying to get your car home take the cables off and touch them together for 5 or 10 min rebook up battery and you should be good to get home if the battery has enough power to get you there it resets the brain
Have you tried the key fob to ignition button? I have same issue and always works! But not today! Now I hear a clicking from the inside fuse box as well !!??
I had same problem it turned out that my battery was going bad and the car sensed it and shut down the car there's a sensor on the battery terminal and that's what was shutting down
I don't do business with auto zone. I purchased a signal light switch for a GMC sanoma and they gave me one for a GMC searra. Wrong switch! But they wouldn't take it back because it was an electronic component. That was 20 years ago and I haven't done any business with them since. And I have no intention of ever doing business with them as long as I live. They can go pound sand!
UPDATE-
Hey guys, thank you for watching this video...if this has helped you out in any way please SUBSCRIBE, press that LIKE BUTTON and leave a COMMENT.
Please check out these links that may SOLVE YOUR NO START ISSUES.
amzn.to/3tvM0jd
amzn.to/3xUrWKX
amzn.to/3uuLxiA
amzn.to/3erjviy
Analyze your car issues and ERROR codes and clear them with this Amazingly accurate yet inexpensive OBD2
SCANNER- amzn.to/33rovxg
Wireless Scanner
amzn.to/3nYbjtb
Test your Battery and Alternator
amzn.to/2QWtGCU
If you would like to help this channel, your donations are appreciated.
Cashapp- $PeterLCG
Venmo- PeterLCG
THANK YOU
I’m trying to figure out how to get my car started and you’re dragging out revealing the solution.
Bro you talk too much get to the point 😅
You talk to dam much
Right this didn’t help me at all
Get to the point
Peter L... You are misinforming people on starter status. I work at an AutoZone in Florida. AutoZone does not sell REBUILT starters or alternators. AutoZone sells new and remanufactured starters and alternators. There is a huge difference. Let me correct you on this matter.
1. A rebuilt starter or alternator is exactly what you said. Only the bad parts are replaced.
2. A remanufactured starter or alternator , on the other hand, has ALL the parts replaced with new parts, EXCEPT FOR, the casings. You are essentially getting a new starter or alternator with a used casing. That is way better than getting a rebuilt one.
3. Even a Completely NEW one can be faulty or malfunction early on. Most people don't know that a starter or alternator can be accidentally dropped multiple times before it ever makes it to a shelf to be sold. That can damage it. They can be assembled poorly or incorrectly, if the assembly line isn't calibrated or malfunctions. It happens. I bought a bad fuel pump once and found out that the manufacturer recalled that entire shipment of 500,000 bad pumps that were shipped out. I'm willing to bet your 2nd replacement will last a long time. If it doesn't, then you probably have a more problematic issue causing the starter to die early on. Damaged wires, damaged flexplate/flywheel, misalignment, etc can all kill a starter in no time. I've been working on cars for 31 years and I'm a certified parts expert with several certs in the automotive repair field. If you ever have any questions, please reach out to me anytime you want to.
Knowledge is power and now you know.
Sincerely,
The Grapevine Master TECH, aka, HondaGuyKyle
Someone loves the sound of their own voice.
Clean terminal that has positive and negative that sits on top of each other under the hood held down by a bolt ! It works
I saw a video where the guy bought a negative battery cable and plugged it in the starter supposedly the connection is not great and with time it gives you these types of problems
Hope it helps
So it was definitely the starter right? I'm having the same issues with my '17 Dodge Journey... "1 click, no crank". The car started an ran fine & then all the sudden..."click". I have my suspicions that it is indeed the starter, because like you described, all of my lights, (inside and out), work fine, as does my radio & climate control. My key fob has a low battery, but there's ways around that issue to get the car started...so that's not the issue. Anybody else having, or has had a similar issue, please let me know know how you fixed it, thanks.
I went though alot in the video regarding Diagnosing it. Yes it was the starter.
I have the same problem but I don’t think it’s the starter. I scanned and I got this code U1197.
@Brian Burnett did you succeed to fix the issue? As now I have absolutely the same problem as on the video :(
Your a talking too much
Never buy a Dodge Journey
Never never never EVER THIS IS THE WORST VECHICLE IN TIME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I wish I would've known this
It’s the battery current sensor 💯
It’s the The battery current temperature sensor
It the starter. I have a dodge journey crossroad v6. It clicked. Battery is fine,key push start button is fine.
How would I fix it?
@@AppleMakili would recommend buying a new starter n wire that goes from starter to battery. Sadly with these cars that the main issue is the wire to the starter. Good luck
If your trying to get your car home take the cables off and touch them together for 5 or 10 min rebook up battery and you should be good to get home if the battery has enough power to get you there it resets the brain
Have you tried the key fob to ignition button? I have same issue and always works! But not today! Now I hear a clicking from the inside fuse box as well !!??
I am having the same problem except when I try to start it I loose power and have to wiggle the battery to get power back....
My break won’t go down to start the car.
I had same problem it turned out that my battery was going bad and the car sensed it and shut down the car there's a sensor on the battery terminal and that's what was shutting down
It could be a short in the tail lifting harness
Be nice to know exactly whichever fuse was blown
Probably 121 under the passenger side console on the upper right side
Did it throw air at u on and off ?
I don't do business with auto zone. I purchased a signal light switch for a GMC sanoma and they gave me one for a GMC searra. Wrong switch! But they wouldn't take it back because it was an electronic component. That was 20 years ago and I haven't done any business with them since. And I have no intention of ever doing business with them as long as I live. They can go pound sand!
Advance Auto won't let you return electronic stuff....I'm pretty sure Auto Zone let's you return anything.
@@peterl6095 20 years ago they didn't.
Come on man
You're talking to much stop putting videos up cause it's irrelevant
Why did the car not start?
Don't ever buy a dodge vehicle. Never!!!...
Get to the point …
hit the lock button and then unlocked and car started
This video is such a waste of time. Guy talks way more than he needs to.