You are overthinking it. Just do a couple of boards for framing & be done with it. You dont need a lot. However, If you truly want to stay no build, no screws, no strength or energy needed. Heres how to do it. Get the foam insulation boards, cut panels with box knife to fit spots on the walls. Spray glue one side & edges of isulation wuth pretty fabric. Then spray glue the fabric covered panels to the walls. Keep them smaller to keep the weight down from falling off the walls & so u can handle it easily. Then keep you spray glue handy in the van if one comes loose. 3rd options for no build, dont insulate & dont worry about it. You dont live in it. This is your adventure van, so its no big deal to leave the walls undressed. Then you will have more metal for magnets & put up paper pictures or postcards of places u travel or fabric curtains.
@@georgiacorey954 EWW Gross. LOL. But you’re right about the few boards. I really don’t need to try to put up a 4 ft board on a rail lining up 5 holes. I can do smaller pieces with 2 holes and still have the strips of framework to attach the lightweight walls and it would be much much easier. That sounds like a plan to me! 😊
I got super lucky when I bought my 2019 159" high roof Promaster Window Van - it already had all the plastic panels in it like you have on your back doors so I can use those to sandwich insulation in. I'm with you on not putting any extra holes in the van if I can help it. I've never spent so much money on one thing ever in my life and I don't want to mess it up. I'm jealous of that cooler... that's on my list, too, as one of the bigger purchases for my currently untouched rig. Looking forward to the review!
@@stetsoneleven4229 Lucky you!! I have wished mine came with those many times. I don’t need professionally done wooden walls, just something to hold my insulation in! Finally someone who understands about not putting new holes in the van! Thanks for watching. 😊
Keep in mind that wood expands and contracts constantly. It also is subject to mold and mildew. Being in Florida humidity would give me great pause using wood.
You’re probably not wrong although can use pretreated wood which should help. I can’t work with metal at all so it has to be wood. It wouldn’t be anything big and heavy, just some nailer boards to hold up light walls. I likely will not be putting cabinets up top.
@@amiralions2681 Definitely can do that. I’ve had to pull that little one in the house more than once when my fridge kept breaking so having 2 camper fridges that I can pull in now will save even more food if and when that happens again or if we lose power! Thanks for watching 😊
I used Thinsulate. Then i cut 1/4" birchwood plywood into strips..the hight of my van walls. I stuck the bottom of the strips behind the wood rail that came attached with the van. I used heavy duty velcro, cut small pieces to attach to the top back and middle of each strip of wood and velcrod them all to the middle and top rails..which were already in the van. I left a wee small gap between each strip of wood for air flow. Easy to remove to check for moisture or just change out. 😊
OMGosh what a great idea. This was for walls, not the ceiling right? Ha! I really like that idea. I don’t have any wood rails but this gives me something to think about for sure. I don’t need to hang anything on the walls, just something to cover the insulation. Brilliant!!
@@JasonHelmandollar Thanks, Jason! It’s a top contender for sure. More worried about the framing, I just can’t help but feel like there has to be an easier way. Ugh. Thanks for watching! 😊
Wish i could advise on the framing and walls but I’d be lost. My son did mine! I love love love that new fridge. Soooo darn pretty and a dependable brand name. I already have one or I’d buy it!
Bite the bullet and put up the framing. You really don’t have a choice since almost everything u’ll put up for walls will require that. I feel ur pain. Have Stu do it when ur funds are stable again. 😅. Super nice fridge!
I have Thinsulate held up with 3M 90 adhesive and it does not sag, I had it on my back doors without a covering for a year with no sag Havloc wool does sag over time.
All I did was use self-tapping screws. Do some sound deadening and forget the insulation unless you're going into a real call climate. If you're in Florida, the heat will just still stay in with the insulation. You don't want that. I live in Florida. No insulation and I'm happy as a claim. Get some self-tapping screws. Screw on some strips of plywood and do your build easy peasy
Yeah but like I said, I don’t want to screw into anything that didn’t already have a hole there. I want to use the factory holes for framing or anything. I already have sound deadening up but really want to do some insulation. I know it’s debatable, some people say don’t, some say absolutely do, and I’m with the absolutely do mindset. Better to get rid of trapped heat than just have it beating down on the tin can all the time. The heat won’t stay in with fans and if it’s kept closed up and wrapped when I’m not in it, it very much keeps a lot of the heat out. I have an AC until coming and it will need insulation to be effective. You’re not entirely wrong, but i don’t agree with the solution! Thank you for your feedback though. 😊
You dont have to use the existing factory holes, unless its something to do with ur warranty? In my E250 it had metal contractor shelves that used those factory holes - I had the shelves removed & they left some bits behind for me to get out. Thats how I learned about those big factory holes. I used a regular drill, when attaching a piece of framing wood I drilled a pilot hole 1st, using a drill bit made for metal, not wood. Then used self tapping screws to permanently attach the wood to the wall in that pilot hole. Self Tapping Screws, are also called Self Drilling screws. They are made so you dont need to do a pilot hole, but a guy at Lowes recommended that i do the pilot holes with my less strong hands & arms. Then my adult son helped with one spot & he used an impact drill & no pilot holes. The Self Tapper slipped a smidge with him too but not enuf to be a problem. Just be sure to drill where there is 2 layers of metal or into the ribs so u dont drill thru the outside wall. You dont need many screws to hold up the framing unless u are installing a bunch of heavy cabinets. Those Self Tapper screws are very strong. After your framing is up, which only needs to be a couple of long 2x3s, or 1x3s, depending on the weight that will be attached to them. Use HVAC tape to instal the foam insulation boards, mine are green. A box knife cuts insulation boards easily. Then u can attach the finishing wood panels of ur choice to the 2x3s. Then Bam, you are done. The Self Tappers are the hardest part but do worth it. Best wishes.
@@georgiacorey954 So many people are suggesting this, and I really appreciate all the info! But I did say I do not drill new holes in my van, that I insist on using factory holes. It sure would be a lot easier to use self tapping screws and screw them in any old where but no way I’m doing that on a $50K van. I just can’t bring myself to do it! Thanks for watching 😊. I always appreciate feedback and knowing what others have done, and often I learn something new.
I'm done with riv nuts on my build, but I saw a mention the other day where the guy used pvc pipe to extend the handles on his rivnut tool and gain more leverage. Of course, that could get awkward with the much longer handles getting in the way.
@@janetn246 Yes! I’ve heard that before too in fact someone just commented a few minutes ago about that. I plan to give it a try on a factory hole that I won’t be using in case it goes wrong and gets stuck sideways. Those riv nuts sure are temperamental little buggers. 😊
@@VanityBittyA friend's dad showed me that trick with the lug nut wrench when some service guy way over-tightened my lugnuts and I couldn't get them loose.
@ Nothing like looking like a super model while van building LOL. I always look like I just crawled out from under a car after an oil change gone bad hahaha. More power to her! I just watched the video and her new technique is very interesting, I love it.
Don’t think I didn’t consider that! 😂. Those insulated blankets I showed have strong Velcro, maybe a couple screws here and there would do it. But that would be really really lazy of me and wouldn’t look best… but i sure did consider it.
That would certainly make things much easier for sure. I just don’t want to create new holes in the van. I’d rather use the factory holes if I can, even though it’s a big pain! Thanks for watching 😊
My Thinsulate has spray adhesive and there is no sagging. On the celing I have the pink board. It's not very heavy at all. The wool is the one that has weight. Decisions, decisions. lol I put up wood paneling, But then I did it with the help of my daughter. I do not envy you right now..😆 good luck Dawn! OH, I didn't frame my van. Maybe later! OoLaLa! what a beautiful fridge!! Yes!
@@VanityBitty I used self-tapping screws. I know, I know! but it works and I have walls I'm comfortable with. lol I could not find anyone in my area that wouldn't charge an arm and a leg.
@ So you guys just screwed in the boards into the rails without framing? A lot of people do that and I really should… I just can’t bring myself to make new holes in the van. It sure would be easier.
@@VanityBitty I screwed on my paneling on exactly the same way I would hang up a picture on the wall, corners and middle. I did what I could do. It might change one day, but meanwhile I'm happy with it. ☺
Thinsulate or foam. Both go on with spray adhesive. Foam is most insulation cut with yard stick and razor knife. You can frame easily with 2x4. Don’t worry about future owners. They do what they do regardless of what you need. You may be over thinking this. I don’t know any one who uses the factory holes. You hold your board up and dril t a hole thorough the board and into the raised metal framing that is already in the van. Drill using a bit that corresponds to the bolt size and use the lock nuts which washers.
@@georgiacorey954 I mean, they should be? They sell in certain trim packages already on the vehicle. Either way it doesn’t matter because they are way out of my price range! Thanks so much, that’s good to know. 😊
@VanityBitty right but if you research someone that has actually used one, not the marketing person that sells them, you will find they had problems with them. But they are people that have strength to drill holes to correct the factory errors.
@@georgiacorey954 I’ve never even seen anyone who bought them. Most people don’t use them, they take them down and put up framing and real walls so they can hang cabinets, etc and because it looks nicer. Those panels don’t screw in, btw. They are attached with body clips like I showed in my video. I’d be perfectly fine with those panels though, but like I said, out of my price range so none of that matters in the least. I intend to bite the bullet and do what I hate, which is putting up some framing. I don’t drill new holes, period. Not because of lack of strength, but because I don’t want to. That’s it. Because I said so. It’s my van. Anyone who does can feel free to drill baby drill in their own van to their hearts content! It’s definitely the easier way. I’ve watched thousands of van building videos and am very aware of the different methods and options. Asking what people think or asking them to think outside the box generally leads to learning even more options and this video was no exception! Feedback is always good. It’s not disregarding it just because some options aren’t right for the person or what they want to do. That’s absurd! I love hearing how other people chose to do things, that’s why I watch so many vanlife channels.
I have a 2018 promaster 136” high roof that is mostly no build. Your video inspires me to want to help you. I used the precut panels on my van along with thinsulate on the walls and ceiling. I would be happy to help you. RUclips isn’t the best for connecting. If you would like to email me let me know and I’ll provide you with my email address.
You are overthinking it. Just do a couple of boards for framing & be done with it. You dont need a lot.
However, If you truly want to stay no build, no screws, no strength or energy needed. Heres how to do it.
Get the foam insulation boards, cut panels with box knife to fit spots on the walls. Spray glue one side & edges of isulation wuth pretty fabric. Then spray glue the fabric covered panels to the walls. Keep them smaller to keep the weight down from falling off the walls & so u can handle it easily. Then keep you spray glue handy in the van if one comes loose.
3rd options for no build, dont insulate & dont worry about it. You dont live in it. This is your adventure van, so its no big deal to leave the walls undressed. Then you will have more metal for magnets & put up paper pictures or postcards of places u travel or fabric curtains.
@@georgiacorey954 EWW Gross. LOL. But you’re right about the few boards. I really don’t need to try to put up a 4 ft board on a rail lining up 5 holes. I can do smaller pieces with 2 holes and still have the strips of framework to attach the lightweight walls and it would be much much easier. That sounds like a plan to me! 😊
OMG that’s so pretty. I’ve seen a lot of those in vanlife videos! Congratulations! That’s what I want too.
Same! I’m so happy to have it. Thanks for watching. 😊
That Iceco is beautiful!!!
@@jazziered142 ahh thank you so much. Yeah I do agree. They did a great job. Idk how a fridge can be gorgeous but it really is 😄
I got super lucky when I bought my 2019 159" high roof Promaster Window Van - it already had all the plastic panels in it like you have on your back doors so I can use those to sandwich insulation in. I'm with you on not putting any extra holes in the van if I can help it. I've never spent so much money on one thing ever in my life and I don't want to mess it up. I'm jealous of that cooler... that's on my list, too, as one of the bigger purchases for my currently untouched rig. Looking forward to the review!
@@stetsoneleven4229 Lucky you!! I have wished mine came with those many times. I don’t need professionally done wooden walls, just something to hold my insulation in! Finally someone who understands about not putting new holes in the van! Thanks for watching. 😊
Keep in mind that wood expands and contracts constantly. It also is subject to mold and mildew. Being in Florida humidity would give me great pause using wood.
You’re probably not wrong although can use pretreated wood which should help. I can’t work with metal at all so it has to be wood. It wouldn’t be anything big and heavy, just some nailer boards to hold up light walls. I likely will not be putting cabinets up top.
Nice frig! I'd keep both. Put the little one up front for cold drinks.
@@amiralions2681 Definitely can do that. I’ve had to pull that little one in the house more than once when my fridge kept breaking so having 2 camper fridges that I can pull in now will save even more food if and when that happens again or if we lose power! Thanks for watching 😊
I used Thinsulate. Then i cut 1/4" birchwood plywood into strips..the hight of my van walls. I stuck the bottom of the strips behind the wood rail that came attached with the van. I used heavy duty velcro, cut small pieces to attach to the top back and middle of each strip of wood and velcrod them all to the middle and top rails..which were already in the van. I left a wee small gap between each strip of wood for air flow. Easy to remove to check for moisture or just change out. 😊
OMGosh what a great idea. This was for walls, not the ceiling right? Ha! I really like that idea. I don’t have any wood rails but this gives me something to think about for sure. I don’t need to hang anything on the walls, just something to cover the insulation. Brilliant!!
I can show a couple pics but don't know how to add them here
@ would it be too much trouble to send them to VanityBitty@gmail.com? I’d love to see if possible.
@@VanityBittyWould there be any problem with breathing in the insulation?
The Iceco is so pretty.
@@myjournalingcorner Thank you so much! I agree. They made a very attractive fridge, I really love how it looks! Thanks for watching. 😊
I use 3m thinsulate insulation in mine, I really like it but it is certainly expensive. Loving your new fridge, that will come in so handy for you.
@@JasonHelmandollar Thanks, Jason! It’s a top contender for sure. More worried about the framing, I just can’t help but feel like there has to be an easier way. Ugh. Thanks for watching! 😊
You can always use a couple of pieces of pipe to slip over the handles on your rivet tool to increase your leverage.
@@Gail-ux2ly that’s a really good idea. Someone mentioned that to me on Facebook awhile back and I completely forgot to try that. So thank you!
That is a pretty refrigerator. Wow!
@@RuthAnn-f4j Thank you! That’s what I said when I opened it. “Wow!” I’m so happy with it. 😊. Thanks for watching.
Wish i could advise on the framing and walls but I’d be lost. My son did mine! I love love love that new fridge. Soooo darn pretty and a dependable brand name. I already have one or I’d buy it!
Can I borrow your son? 😂 Thank you so much for watching 😊
Love Iceco, had a small one, want to get the double lid fridge freezer. Nice Fridge.
Oh I’ve seen those too and really like them. Thanks for watching! 😊
Bite the bullet and put up the framing. You really don’t have a choice since almost everything u’ll put up for walls will require that. I feel ur pain. Have Stu do it when ur funds are stable again. 😅. Super nice fridge!
I second that!
I know you’re right, I just dont wanna! 😂 I can’t think of a feasible way to avoid it though.
I have Thinsulate held up with 3M 90 adhesive and it does not sag, I had it on my back doors without a covering for a year with no sag Havloc wool does sag over time.
@@Dogman178 Ah thanks! Is that a spray? Thanks for watching! ☺️
@@VanityBitty yes
Hey! Fancy schmancy. Very 😎 literally. 😂
Hehe it IS 😎. It does look fancy schmancy, doesn’t it. 😁
Glue and carpet at the end there's no shame in asking for help you do you girl 🤗
@@AlfredandLinda 😂 Well that sure would come back out easy with no mess LOL. Thanks for watching you guys! 😊
Just frame it yourself. I’ve seen you do stuff like that all the time. No fun but gotta do it. I have faith in you ✌️
Haha thanks! I know… you’re right, it just will take me forever and won’t be easy. Thanks for watching!😊
All I did was use self-tapping screws. Do some sound deadening and forget the insulation unless you're going into a real call climate. If you're in Florida, the heat will just still stay in with the insulation. You don't want that. I live in Florida. No insulation and I'm happy as a claim. Get some self-tapping screws. Screw on some strips of plywood and do your build easy peasy
Yeah but like I said, I don’t want to screw into anything that didn’t already have a hole there. I want to use the factory holes for framing or anything. I already have sound deadening up but really want to do some insulation. I know it’s debatable, some people say don’t, some say absolutely do, and I’m with the absolutely do mindset. Better to get rid of trapped heat than just have it beating down on the tin can all the time. The heat won’t stay in with fans and if it’s kept closed up and wrapped when I’m not in it, it very much keeps a lot of the heat out. I have an AC until coming and it will need insulation to be effective. You’re not entirely wrong, but i don’t agree with the solution! Thank you for your feedback though. 😊
You dont have to use the existing factory holes, unless its something to do with ur warranty? In my E250 it had metal contractor shelves that used those factory holes - I had the shelves removed & they left some bits behind for me to get out. Thats how I learned about those big factory holes.
I used a regular drill, when attaching a piece of framing wood I drilled a pilot hole 1st, using a drill bit made for metal, not wood. Then used self tapping screws to permanently attach the wood to the wall in that pilot hole. Self Tapping Screws, are also called Self Drilling screws. They are made so you dont need to do a pilot hole, but a guy at Lowes recommended that i do the pilot holes with my less strong hands & arms.
Then my adult son helped with one spot & he used an impact drill & no pilot holes. The Self Tapper slipped a smidge with him too but not enuf to be a problem. Just be sure to drill where there is 2 layers of metal or into the ribs so u dont drill thru the outside wall. You dont need many screws to hold up the framing unless u are installing a bunch of heavy cabinets. Those Self Tapper screws are very strong. After your framing is up, which only needs to be a couple of long 2x3s, or 1x3s, depending on the weight that will be attached to them. Use HVAC tape to instal the foam insulation boards, mine are green. A box knife cuts insulation boards easily. Then u can attach the finishing wood panels of ur choice to the 2x3s. Then Bam, you are done. The Self Tappers are the hardest part but do worth it. Best wishes.
@@georgiacorey954 So many people are suggesting this, and I really appreciate all the info! But I did say I do not drill new holes in my van, that I insist on using factory holes. It sure would be a lot easier to use self tapping screws and screw them in any old where but no way I’m doing that on a $50K van. I just can’t bring myself to do it! Thanks for watching 😊. I always appreciate feedback and knowing what others have done, and often I learn something new.
I'm done with riv nuts on my build, but I saw a mention the other day where the guy used pvc pipe to extend the handles on his rivnut tool and gain more leverage. Of course, that could get awkward with the much longer handles getting in the way.
@@janetn246 Yes! I’ve heard that before too in fact someone just commented a few minutes ago about that. I plan to give it a try on a factory hole that I won’t be using in case it goes wrong and gets stuck sideways. Those riv nuts sure are temperamental little buggers. 😊
@@VanityBittyA friend's dad showed me that trick with the lug nut wrench when some service guy way over-tightened my lugnuts and I couldn't get them loose.
Tory Delury posted a video a few weeks ago where she used Insulation Pins to hold up Havelock Wool. Might give it a watch for inspiration
I will, thank you! Haveloc is out of my price range at the moment but I wish it wasn’t. 😄. Thank you for watching! 😊
Great minds think alike, I posted the same thing, lol. I watched her video also a few weeks ago.
@ Nothing like looking like a super model while van building LOL. I always look like I just crawled out from under a car after an oil change gone bad hahaha. More power to her! I just watched the video and her new technique is very interesting, I love it.
Blankets and magnets
Don’t think I didn’t consider that! 😂. Those insulated blankets I showed have strong Velcro, maybe a couple screws here and there would do it. But that would be really really lazy of me and wouldn’t look best… but i sure did consider it.
Dawn just use self taping screws.
That would certainly make things much easier for sure. I just don’t want to create new holes in the van. I’d rather use the factory holes if I can, even though it’s a big pain! Thanks for watching 😊
My Thinsulate has spray adhesive and there is no sagging. On the celing I have the pink board. It's not very heavy at all. The wool is the one that has weight. Decisions, decisions. lol I put up wood paneling, But then I did it with the help of my daughter. I do not envy you right now..😆 good luck Dawn! OH, I didn't frame my van. Maybe later! OoLaLa! what a beautiful fridge!! Yes!
Thanks, Cindy! How do you keep up the walls with no framing? Tell me, tell me! 😂
@@VanityBitty I used self-tapping screws. I know, I know! but it works and I have walls I'm comfortable with. lol I could not find anyone in my area that wouldn't charge an arm and a leg.
@ So you guys just screwed in the boards into the rails without framing? A lot of people do that and I really should… I just can’t bring myself to make new holes in the van. It sure would be easier.
@@VanityBitty I screwed on my paneling on exactly the same way I would hang up a picture on the wall, corners and middle. I did what I could do. It might change one day, but meanwhile I'm happy with it. ☺
If you want to drive up to NYS I would be glad to help you.
Don’t tempt me!! 😂 Is that New York State? Unfortunately not something I can do for quite some time but I sure appreciate the offer. Wish I could. 😊
@@VanityBitty Yes, up near Buffalo. Any time. Just give me a heads up.
@@VanityBitty Don't forget to use a sound deadener first.
@ I already have sound deadening done, long time ago! Just these darn walls and insulation ugh.
Thinsulate or foam. Both go on with spray adhesive. Foam is most insulation cut with yard stick and razor knife. You can frame easily with 2x4. Don’t worry about future owners. They do what they do regardless of what you need. You may be over thinking this. I don’t know any one who uses the factory holes. You hold your board up and dril t
a hole thorough the board and into the raised metal framing that is already in the van. Drill using a bit that corresponds to the bolt size and use the lock nuts which washers.
And those kits are not exact either
@@georgiacorey954 I mean, they should be? They sell in certain trim packages already on the vehicle. Either way it doesn’t matter because they are way out of my price range! Thanks so much, that’s good to know. 😊
@VanityBitty right but if you research someone that has actually used one, not the marketing person that sells them, you will find they had problems with them. But they are people that have strength to drill holes to correct the factory errors.
@@georgiacorey954 I’ve never even seen anyone who bought them. Most people don’t use them, they take them down and put up framing and real walls so they can hang cabinets, etc and because it looks nicer. Those panels don’t screw in, btw. They are attached with body clips like I showed in my video. I’d be perfectly fine with those panels though, but like I said, out of my price range so none of that matters in the least. I intend to bite the bullet and do what I hate, which is putting up some framing. I don’t drill new holes, period. Not because of lack of strength, but because I don’t want to. That’s it. Because I said so. It’s my van. Anyone who does can feel free to drill baby drill in their own van to their hearts content! It’s definitely the easier way. I’ve watched thousands of van building videos and am very aware of the different methods and options. Asking what people think or asking them to think outside the box generally leads to learning even more options and this video was no exception! Feedback is always good. It’s not disregarding it just because some options aren’t right for the person or what they want to do. That’s absurd! I love hearing how other people chose to do things, that’s why I watch so many vanlife channels.
@VanityBitty fyi for one example, Campervan Kevin did a kit. But like you said it doesn't matter. Keep doing you your way & enjoy.
@ Ohhh I’m gonna look that up. I’ve never seen it done. Nice, thanks!
I have a 2018 promaster 136” high roof that is mostly no build. Your video inspires me to want to help you. I used the precut panels on my van along with thinsulate on the walls and ceiling. I would be happy to help you. RUclips isn’t the best for connecting. If you would like to email me let me know and I’ll provide you with my email address.