I got another 4-5 years out of a washer by fixing the control board. My wife was happy when it started really going haywire and other parts started failing at the same time. lol We did get about 12 years out of the old washer, which is probably fairly long these days. I'd much rather have just a mechanical controller that lasts 30 years....
Thanks 👍problem is the average view duration of most videos is usually about 50% of the full length. If a video has less viewing duration than average then RUclips doesn't push the video as much as it says people aren't watching for as long...
In the night lite part . often when using a capacitor dropper the bridge rectifier contains 2 zener diodes if made from discretes. This provides regulation and saves the capacitor from overvoltage situations. Love the videos , Thanks
Great repair on that control board. I looked up online for the same board they wanted £114.95 and the part you replaced was a most probably a couple of pennies. Just goes to show tinkering around saves money.
Thanks, and yes definitely. I've often reported stuff where the cost of the components are literally a penny or two, and the price of a replacement board or unit has been over £100 or more.
six months later after the breakdown, my freezer is running again with the original electronics! I didn't find the fault, I didn't believe that the power capacitor could be the cause and didn't check it :-), until today :-) I let DS18b20 ,Esp8266 and wlan socket do the control temporarily mine(Liebherr Premium) had the value 0.68 uF, I took 2 x .47uF in parallel runs smoothly... Thanks Mr. Buy and Fit It :-)
Found your channel via My Mate Vince. Really enjoy watching you, and Vince work on different items. Like the fact that you explain what is wrong in simple terms and how a device is wired. You are not perfect, admit when you make mistakes, learn from the mistakes, and fix them with a better understanding. Thank you!
The skill of knowing where to look. Keep on teaching us the tricks! I had a fridge board go bad. It had blown a capacitor which I replaced but still no power. It had a transformer on but not enough experience to try anything else. Perhaps I should have applied power then probed to see how far it got.
I’ve got about a dozen of those Eiger night lights and every single one failed because of that resistor and capacitor, sometimes taking out the fuse and 13001 transistor too. All fixed and working for last 3 years without incident after I upgraded the wattage of the resistor and put in a higher quality capacitor. It was difficult to find a capacitor with the same form factor though as my first attempts used a larger form factor and the case wouldn’t close at the bottom where the clips are 😂. When originally purchased, most blew after about a year with only 3 lasting about two years. The upgraded resistor and capacitor has made a huge difference. Also note if the 13001 blows, beware the replacement might have a different pin out than the original on the board even though marked the same.
Thanks Graham. Yes I did see on the forum I found that there was some 13001 with a different pin out. The capacitor I used was slightly bigger than the original but managed to just get the case closed with it 😂Thanks for commenting 👍
Great video, I really liked the reverse engineering, but any chance to learn something is great. Wonder how many things get throw away when it's just a little cheap component that's the cause of the problem.
Great repairs as usual. I think that, assuming you had them, I'd have been inclined to use two 4.7k resistors in parallel to give me my 2.4 (2.35)k instead of your 2.2k and 200R in series. Still within tolerance and you'd have doubled the power rating at the same time..
Great video as always , a 2 fer this time ........almost 4 years ago my icebox went out , it's an older type with the analog click style defrost timer , I took it down and turned it a few times with a screwdriver and it worked , so I let it run like that for a week and then put it in the spare room , for a second icebox ....... Well I forgot to take it apart and De-oxit the right way , 6 months ago it came back to haunt me...... I'll De-oxit this time for sure ......... Take care Mon Ami ......
Love capacitive dropper circuits in low power devices. Usually always the problem and so easy. As for the lights, I wonder how hot those resistors are getting that they are cooking themselves? Probably could use a higher wattage resistor to keep them going longer. Maybe something like that defrost resistor in the freezer controller???? Joking, I know that's not for defrost, but damn looks like a 5W resistor!
Yes, when I saw the flickering on the display I pretty much knew what the problem was before talking the board out. I had similar years back with a drayton digistat central heating timer wireless receiver, it's a common problem on those too!
What is your opinion of plugging all sensitive appliances/entertainment systems into a "surge protector". Perhaps a surge protector would have prevented damage to these items.
Perhaps sensitive devices may benefit, but capacitors used as droppers are a common point of failure after time. The lights were just a bad design as loads of others have had the same problem.
The capacitors in capacitive droppers usually end up degrading, I replaced the one in my washing machine for a phone charger so I didn't have to change it every few years, I don't know if there is a way to prevent it.
I don't think so. I guess they just wear out. I had one fail some time ago on a Drayton RF1 boiler thermostat receiver, common problem with them apparently.
I grew up in England and lived in Colchester, Nottingham, Bucks, London, Herts and Chester so don’t have a regional accent, but love the persistence of English accent variants. I can usually roughly identify accents, but can’t pinpoint if someone comes from Newcastle, Durham or Sunderland. Which is yours if you don’t mind my asking? 😊
@@BuyitFixit I did give Nathan another nudge, I am sure he will be in touch. Re the Kindle, I am only trying the non opening up advice I can find on the net, currently leave it on charge for an extended time. Also found some advice about making it go back to factory settings by re naming a file but it will not stay connected to my PC for long enough. Connects the disappears after a few Seconds. Think it might be on its way to the bin unfortunately 🙂
Will see what happens with the “leave it on charge” option. It does have an orange light or a green light sometimes, but if I leave it to sit then no light :-( doesent seem promising :-)
Kindle still not responding, coming up with the same message. Have tried all the "tricks" I can find on line. Unfortunately looks like it will be introduced to the bin 🙂
Год назад+1
I guess, the resistor was a fuseable resistor. You maybe replace it with a fuseable one again.
... actually, a 2,2k will work fine. think about tolerances... 2,2k vs 2,4k... :) if you are patient enough, and a bag of 50-100 2,2k 10% resistors, i'm sure you will find at least one at 2,3k, with a bit of luck, 2,39k :P
It sounds as ifit's a common problem with the charger, so yes, you can replace the capacitor, but won't it just fail again in the future? What's the root cause of the failure?
From looking at the simple design of that wireless light circuit, and the fact that both have the same problem, it looks like these products were created by some guy in a shed. Maybe ordering the plastic parts in bulk and assembling the whole thing by hand. And it's probably some kind of fault with his circuit design where the components heat up too much and degrade over time. Don't think I'd want a "night guard" like this plugged in while I'm asleep!
![Lyman Turbo Sonic Ultrasound Cleaner - "Untested Customer Return" - [Repair]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/auE5GulLQXc/mqdefault.jpg)
I really loved the reverse engineered circuit and the explanation, thanks Mick!
Cheers 👍🙂
And your wife was so looking forward to a new fridge:)
😂😂😂😂👍
I got another 4-5 years out of a washer by fixing the control board. My wife was happy when it started really going haywire and other parts started failing at the same time. lol We did get about 12 years out of the old washer, which is probably fairly long these days. I'd much rather have just a mechanical controller that lasts 30 years....
Saved a freezer from landfill and a ton of pollution. Good job.
Thanks 🙂👍
Thank you for your videos. I think each one in my opinion deserves it's own video. Even though they would be small in size would still be great
Thanks 👍problem is the average view duration of most videos is usually about 50% of the full length. If a video has less viewing duration than average then RUclips doesn't push the video as much as it says people aren't watching for as long...
Well done mate...All the best.
Thanks 👍
nice repairs, the 2.4k resistor was very hot, so perhaps two 4.7k resistors in parallel to increase the wattage rating?
Yes that would work. Great idea 👍
I think that's a great suggestion.
Heya, oh wouw you're spoiling us with 2 repairs, and even doing some reverse ingeniering it's getting better and better
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
In the night lite part . often when using a capacitor dropper the bridge rectifier contains 2 zener diodes if made from discretes. This provides regulation and saves the capacitor from overvoltage situations. Love the videos , Thanks
Interesting! and thanks 👍🙂
Great video as always Mick 👌
Thanks Vince 👍
Great repair on that control board. I looked up online for the same board they wanted £114.95 and the part you replaced was a most probably a couple of pennies. Just goes to show tinkering around saves money.
Thanks, and yes definitely. I've often reported stuff where the cost of the components are literally a penny or two, and the price of a replacement board or unit has been over £100 or more.
Good fix on freezer and the night lights! It's great to see that some people still fix things instead of chucking them out. Well done.
Thanks 👍
six months later after the breakdown, my freezer is running again with the original electronics! I didn't find the fault, I didn't believe that the power capacitor could be the cause and didn't check it :-), until today :-)
I let DS18b20 ,Esp8266 and wlan socket do the control temporarily
mine(Liebherr Premium) had the value 0.68 uF, I took 2 x .47uF in parallel
runs smoothly...
Thanks Mr. Buy and Fit It :-)
You're very welcome. Glad you got it fixed in the end 👍
A couple of air holes drilled into it may help the capacitor live longer.
Found your channel via My Mate Vince. Really enjoy watching you, and Vince work on different items. Like the fact that you explain what is wrong in simple terms and how a device is wired. You are not perfect, admit when you make mistakes, learn from the mistakes, and fix them with a better understanding. Thank you!
Thanks. Yes I don't think anyone is perfect 😂😂😂
Brilliant Mick. Thanks for posting
Cheers Neil 👍
Sweet skills! I'm new to electronic repair... looks super interesting. Cheers!
Thanks 🙂👍
Nice job on those! Also liked seeing the Big Clive-esque reverse engineering and explanation.
Thanks mate👍
The skill of knowing where to look. Keep on teaching us the tricks!
I had a fridge board go bad. It had blown a capacitor which I replaced but still no power. It had a transformer on but not enough experience to try anything else. Perhaps I should have applied power then probed to see how far it got.
I certainly will 🙂 I'm no expert, just got a logical wired mind I think, and a bit of experience 😂😂
I volunteer at repair events, and video channels like yours help many tinkerers like me fix numerous items. So thank you.
Good to hear Shane, we need more people like us! Thanks for commenting!
Great job. It is so simple to repair when nobody has gone through it. 👍👍
Thanks 👍
I’ve got about a dozen of those Eiger night lights and every single one failed because of that resistor and capacitor, sometimes taking out the fuse and 13001 transistor too. All fixed and working for last 3 years without incident after I upgraded the wattage of the resistor and put in a higher quality capacitor. It was difficult to find a capacitor with the same form factor though as my first attempts used a larger form factor and the case wouldn’t close at the bottom where the clips are 😂.
When originally purchased, most blew after about a year with only 3 lasting about two years. The upgraded resistor and capacitor has made a huge difference. Also note if the 13001 blows, beware the replacement might have a different pin out than the original on the board even though marked the same.
Thanks Graham. Yes I did see on the forum I found that there was some 13001 with a different pin out. The capacitor I used was slightly bigger than the original but managed to just get the case closed with it 😂Thanks for commenting 👍
@@BuyitFixit Really enjoying your work and have been bingeing since I discovered your channel. Keep up the great work!
@@grahamlee1661 Thanks Graham 👍
Nice fixes.
Hope the owner of the lights thanks you properly.
I'm sure they will. The cafe is a charity run thing so I'm sure he'll be happy to give a small donation towards the rent / coffee tea fund.
Nice little two in one video. Didn't realise the title and thought it was over after the quick first fix🤣Great teardowns and explanations as always
Thanks Jay 👍
Great video, I really liked the reverse engineering, but any chance to learn something is great. Wonder how many things get throw away when it's just a little cheap component that's the cause of the problem.
Thanks Morten. Probably lots of things I'd guess.
great video as usual, very illuminating
😂😂😂😂
Mick: "I am not an expert in electronic engineering"
( *Explains the diagram and how that thing works like a boss* ) haha
😂😂😂👍
Exactly! Wish some of my college teachers explained like that
Great repairs as usual. I think that, assuming you had them, I'd have been inclined to use two 4.7k resistors in parallel to give me my 2.4 (2.35)k instead of your 2.2k and 200R in series. Still within tolerance and you'd have doubled the power rating at the same time..
Good Idea, thanks for the suggestion Neil 👍
We got a 2for 1 so great !....cheers.
Cheers AndyMouse 👍
Great fix as always very clearly explained thank so much 😊
Thanks Cucumber Man. Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Great video as always , a 2 fer this time ........almost 4 years ago my icebox went out , it's an older type with the analog click style defrost timer , I took it down and turned it a few times with a screwdriver and it worked , so I let it run like that for a week and then put it in the spare room , for a second icebox ....... Well I forgot to take it apart and De-oxit the right way , 6 months ago it came back to haunt me...... I'll De-oxit this time for sure ......... Take care Mon Ami ......
Thanks and take care too!
Grand job, nice 👍
Thanks 👍
Love capacitive dropper circuits in low power devices. Usually always the problem and so easy. As for the lights, I wonder how hot those resistors are getting that they are cooking themselves? Probably could use a higher wattage resistor to keep them going longer. Maybe something like that defrost resistor in the freezer controller????
Joking, I know that's not for defrost, but damn looks like a 5W resistor!
Yes, when I saw the flickering on the display I pretty much knew what the problem was before talking the board out. I had similar years back with a drayton digistat central heating timer wireless receiver, it's a common problem on those too!
Excelente
Thanks 👍
What is your opinion of plugging all sensitive appliances/entertainment systems into a "surge protector". Perhaps a surge protector would have prevented damage to these items.
Perhaps sensitive devices may benefit, but capacitors used as droppers are a common point of failure after time. The lights were just a bad design as loads of others have had the same problem.
Hi i wish u lived next door all the best
Thanks Allan 👍
The capacitors in capacitive droppers usually end up degrading, I replaced the one in my washing machine for a phone charger so I didn't have to change it every few years, I don't know if there is a way to prevent it.
I don't think so. I guess they just wear out. I had one fail some time ago on a Drayton RF1 boiler thermostat receiver, common problem with them apparently.
You are a brave man. I would have had to set those grommets aside in fear of accidentally sending them to the shadow world.
It wouldn't be the first time! I've often lost screws etc to that place!
I grew up in England and lived in Colchester, Nottingham, Bucks, London, Herts and Chester so don’t have a regional accent, but love the persistence of English accent variants. I can usually roughly identify accents, but can’t pinpoint if someone comes from Newcastle, Durham or Sunderland. Which is yours if you don’t mind my asking?
😊
Well originally from South Shields, then Durham, and now Cumbria, so you were very close 👍
Multi repairs now 🙂I am battling to get a Kindle touch working, not as clever as you though, not sure it is worth messing with though.
Depends, you can always learn from the experience even if the device isn't really worth repairing. I still haven't heard anything from Nathan...
@@BuyitFixit I did give Nathan another nudge, I am sure he will be in touch. Re the Kindle, I am only trying the non opening up advice I can find on the net, currently leave it on charge for an extended time. Also found some advice about making it go back to factory settings by re naming a file but it will not stay connected to my PC for long enough. Connects the disappears after a few Seconds. Think it might be on its way to the bin unfortunately 🙂
Sounds like battery possibly?
Will see what happens with the “leave it on charge” option. It does have an orange light or a green light sometimes, but if I leave it to sit then no light :-( doesent seem promising :-)
Kindle still not responding, coming up with the same message. Have tried all the "tricks" I can find on line. Unfortunately looks like it will be introduced to the bin 🙂
I guess, the resistor was a fuseable resistor. You maybe replace it with a fuseable one again.
I think it was just under rated for the job. A few other people have replaced them with higher wattage and their units have been running fine.
👍
Cheers 👍
... actually, a 2,2k will work fine.
think about tolerances... 2,2k vs 2,4k... :) if you are patient enough, and a bag of 50-100 2,2k 10% resistors, i'm sure you will find at least one at 2,3k, with a bit of luck, 2,39k :P
Yeah true, didn't really think of that 👍
Your wife is mad, she never gets anything new ;)
Hmmm unless it's something horse related 🤔😂😂😂
Hmmm unless it's something horse related 🤔😂😂😂
It sounds as ifit's a common problem with the charger, so yes, you can replace the capacitor, but won't it just fail again in the future? What's the root cause of the failure?
I think they just under specified the wattage of the resistor on the charger. The capacitor on the fridge, they just go bad over time.
Capacitors truly seem to be the weak link sadly. Especially cheap ones
Yep, I think cost savings or quality or something came into the equation as some vintage devices the capacitors are still actually fine!
From looking at the simple design of that wireless light circuit, and the fact that both have the same problem, it looks like these products were created by some guy in a shed. Maybe ordering the plastic parts in bulk and assembling the whole thing by hand.
And it's probably some kind of fault with his circuit design where the components heat up too much and degrade over time.
Don't think I'd want a "night guard" like this plugged in while I'm asleep!
Perhaps they should rename it 'fire guard' 😂😂
Hi, sir I already replaced transistor & 2.4k resistance, right now it's charging ok, but motion sensor doesn't work, how it can be repaired. Thanks
Im talking about induction chargeable light
@@qpkhalid Sorry I'm not too sure as I never looked at the motion detection side of the device.
That wireless charger must emmit a ton of EMI in all sorts of frequency bands . Horrible
Freezer. Control. Board. Repair. Wireless. Charging. Nightlight.
Is that a 'boro accent?
More South Shields / Newcastle 🙂