wow. this is cool to see. a few days ago I just wonder how to flare such stainless steel tube pipe. like for 2inch or 3inch something like that. glad to see how you done. this gives me idea to create one like yours too.
Can't explain how much I love seeing comments like this! Glad you found value in this, and can apply it to your project! I'm currently having another made with harder material, and another for 2.5"-3" just so I'm ahead of things before it starts to wear... I will likely do a comparison on that once it's complete. Thanks for watching and letting me know your thoughts! Really appreciate the feedback!
I have been searching for a good repeatable way to do this for 5 inch exhaust tubing, specifically for the turbo downpipe on semi's. This is a great idea, just need to find a machine shop that can do it for 5 inch. Great video sir, thanks!
I thought you were going to show using dimple dies but that is rather big I dont know if I have seen one that size . I am now curious if that might work also .
@@AtlanticBuilt Cool! Thank you for the info, and the tip on the copper anti seize. Me having a smaller press, it was interesting to hear how much it needs.
I've been doing a similar thing in a similar way except it is straight, tapered, straight at a larger diameter. That makes it trickier, but, after a few tries, it seems to work OK now.
Well, kinda. The tube is expanded just as you are doing it and then the edge is rolled back to cylindrical all in one "press". This to make welding up a flex connector a bit easier. The edge is only rolled over to cylindrical for about 1/4" to fit inside the flex connector.@@AtlanticBuilt
I use a similar tactic too. If you have a pipe with a thick thickness, heat it until it turns red and then press it. If you are going to use molding oil, use non-flammable.
It wasn't, any machine shop could do this for you though, guessing for Porsche or something? If you had the donut gasket, try to bring it to a local machine shop and see what they say. I think next time I will have one done in a harder material than just the cold rolled, but at first we weren't sure if it would do what I needed it to do.
If you are only making sections, such as what you are showing, it would be good to have the female portion to make a stamping die set. You will get even straighter flares and less chance of dealing with inconsistent metallurgy, like soft spots/hard spots in the tubing, which would cause sideways distortion. The female portion has a lip to engage the non-flared end and notches cut on the lip to aid in removing the pipe section if needed. Thank you for sharing!
wow. this is cool to see. a few days ago I just wonder how to flare such stainless steel tube pipe. like for 2inch or 3inch something like that. glad to see how you done. this gives me idea to create one like yours too.
Can't explain how much I love seeing comments like this! Glad you found value in this, and can apply it to your project! I'm currently having another made with harder material, and another for 2.5"-3" just so I'm ahead of things before it starts to wear... I will likely do a comparison on that once it's complete. Thanks for watching and letting me know your thoughts! Really appreciate the feedback!
I have been searching for a good repeatable way to do this for 5 inch exhaust tubing, specifically for the turbo downpipe on semi's. This is a great idea, just need to find a machine shop that can do it for 5 inch. Great video sir, thanks!
Ahh, the ol' Marmon flange. Awesome! Glad it helped!!
Invaluable dies! Glad you found a killer machine shop! Try using some scochbrite to clean up ends of the tubes, works really well for aluminum
Yes sir! I'm sure you can relate to this in a huge way!!
I thought you were going to show using dimple dies but that is rather big I dont know if I have seen one that size . I am now curious if that might work also .
I hadn't seen one either, but figured I had to give it a whirl!
Short answer: get a steel mandrel made with a lathe, then use a shop press. Plate on top to distribute the load.
Yup! Exactly 🤙
Nice tool you got turned. How many tons did you need to press it down?
I feel like it was around 12T! I'll watch closer on the next one, if it's any higher I'll chime back in here!
So I watched it, 10T will do the trick when using the copper Anti seize as a lube! Works much better. 😊
@@AtlanticBuilt Cool! Thank you for the info, and the tip on the copper anti seize. Me having a smaller press, it was interesting to hear how much it needs.
@@Karkmotuning yeah I gave it a try last night and it made a huge difference!
I've been doing a similar thing in a similar way except it is straight, tapered, straight at a larger diameter. That makes it trickier, but, after a few tries, it seems to work OK now.
That's awesome. Like to bump out/expand the tubing to make a slip joint kind of thing?
Well, kinda. The tube is expanded just as you are doing it and then the edge is rolled back to cylindrical all in one "press". This to make welding up a flex connector a bit easier. The edge is only rolled over to cylindrical for about 1/4" to fit inside the flex connector.@@AtlanticBuilt
@@edwardtaylor4785 ahhhh gotchaaa!
Nicely done
Thank you! Cheers!
I have been using the wheel end of an old cv shaft for that, had a close enough taper for my needs
That's a great idea! Hardened Material too!
Great tool. I would get it hardened so it will last longer, at least a case surface hardening.
Thanks I needed this video right now.
Awesome! Super glad it was helpful!
We able to buy these in 3" diameter 304 stainless? Either through you or somewhere else?
The flared ends? I could offer these and ship them. That's not a bad idea. Shoot me an email! atlanticbuilt@gmail.com
I use a similar tactic too.
If you have a pipe with a thick thickness, heat it until it turns red and then press it. If you are going to use molding oil, use non-flammable.
Any chance the die was for 2 3/4”? If could you make two more and ship to FL or NY?thanks
It wasn't, any machine shop could do this for you though, guessing for Porsche or something? If you had the donut gasket, try to bring it to a local machine shop and see what they say. I think next time I will have one done in a harder material than just the cold rolled, but at first we weren't sure if it would do what I needed it to do.
Okay thanks for the info, yes for a Porsche. I’ll make some calls, it might have made sense if you had the die I needed.
Cheers
If you are only making sections, such as what you are showing, it would be good to have the female portion to make a stamping die set. You will get even straighter flares and less chance of dealing with inconsistent metallurgy, like soft spots/hard spots in the tubing, which would cause sideways distortion. The female portion has a lip to engage the non-flared end and notches cut on the lip to aid in removing the pipe section if needed. Thank you for sharing!
Hi what tonnage did it get to. Thanks
With lube/Anti seize it's under 10!
👍
can you please make me a pair of those? i've had the some problems as you but here in ohio
Only if I can visit to see what you're doing.
Wow agenius
*promosm* 😣
you overkilled cleaning the burrs off though debur with the hand tool more forgiving
Agreed! My cheap ass hand tool is broken. Lol
This is a great tip though. Appreciate it! 🤙
oh great...all you need is 4000 in tools to do the job...nice.
You really only need a small press. A 12 ton would do it. Chances are if you're tinkering often you'll have, or have access to most of these tools.