FYI, the manual shows its 9.9 FDR using the supplied 83T spur and 24T pinion, but AFAIK that's wrong and by Yokomo gear chart is 8.992 FDR. I swapped mine back to 84T Axion spur and 20T pinion for 10.920 FDR that I'm used to with a 13.5T motor. The front lower arms are new and 4.5mm diameter arm adapters instead of current older 5mm ones. The springs are some new version and they are long and soft IMO, being 1.14mm wire size and same springs front and rear seems to make it lift the noise up a lot on throttle for the front & rear weight bias of this chassis. Car tends to body roll a little bit also and using 50Cst oil doesn't help it much, but it still works. The front and rear knuckles are from the SD2.0. Rear RR sus mount is new since they pushed the gearbox back way further and the arms are more forwards. I have already swapped my shocks to Yokomo Big Bores using 1.4mm 4 hole pistons with 150Cst oil and set for 11.4mm shaft length to match the stock plastic shocks. I also swapped out front and rear shock towers for aluminum, as well as the front bulkhead and rear upper arm mount to aluminum also. I use 5K diff oil with the AL lightweight drive cups instead of stock steel ones. The plastic hexes are swapped for 8mm front and 5mm rear, but I also put 1mm spacer on the rear 5mm rear hexes to make it 6mm, since the rear track is narrower by 2mm compared to previous cars. This car loves to swing and hold out the rear angle a lot on throttle, like a SD2.0, but it tends to be harder to transition quickly for me. I will most like try SD2.0 springs or Reve D "R-Tune" 2WS springs and move the motor forwards or move the ESC to front side on top deck like the SD2.0. Also note, you may need to add a 0.5mm to 1mm spacer to the upper deck front & rear or shave the turnbuckle slightly on the top side or even swap it to 4.3mm, as it may just touch the lower side of the upper deck, so make sure to check that. Could also use an adjustable servo arm set to 19-19.5mm instead of the stock plastic one which I think is set to 20mm length hole space. As for servo position, it sits slight back using the rear mounting holes, so it not a straight angle on the servo horn to bellcrank arm and needs to be actually positioned slightly off-center and to the right a little when looking from the front of the car to get even EPA setting values more even in your radio trim settings. The outer curved turnbuckle is a new 30deg version, unlike like previous ones you get with the current turn buckle sets. I also used the AL stopper pin instead of the M3 set screws in the front knuckles. There's AL option parts coming, Y2-008RAW is the AL H-Arms that fit the SD2.0 & RD2.0, which it seems can also have weighted plates bolted to them as an option, Y2-415SAA is the SP Aluminum SP front knuckles for SD/RD2.0 & then there's Y2-202BB which is a new AL bell crank base that allows movement of the steering bellcrank forwards for more steering Ackermann adjustment, not just using the bar with shims like it comes with stock. As a side note, at least I see what all those extra booklets and the sticker sheet looks like that it came with, as I never opened that up in the kit since I got it, lol
Love to see the sharing of info. I've dug into the RD2.0 quite a bit as well. A few things I've found and would like to share to add to this "knowledge base" Transmission is moved to the rear by 5mm. Transmission top deck mounts are integrated into the transmission case rather than using a top deck adapter like the previous yd-2 Z and S. Transmission top deck mount is moved forward by 5mm to account for the box sitting 5mm further back, this allows the use of a standard Z/ZX top deck. You will be able to use traditional rear suspension mounts but it will require a 3x50mm inner pin and 5mm of additional spacers. The RD 2.0 and SD 2.0 transmissions are identical in terms of mounting holes and should be interchangeable RD 2.0 shares the same motor mount as the SD 2.0 and MD 2.0. I highly suspect we will see optional chassis parts for the SD 2.0 that will move its transmission to the rear to match the RD 2.0 changes. The 2 piece lower and upper deck design of the SD 2.0 facilitates these changes.
Can you please chceck what’s the maximum spur gear that RD2.0 can accomodate? From the pictures I worry that it would be 84T. I’m asking because where I drift we tend to go for high FDR - like 14+.
I run the 84T spur and there's plenty of space. It doesn't run close to the battery like the ZX does, even with a 25mm tall LiPo, but even if you needed more space, you can swap the left and right battery tray pieces and move the battery forwards instead slightly (the trays battery location space are molded offset to one side), which they don't mention in the manual, but it has posts for the securing tabs to screw to on both front and rear sides of the trays.
I have an 88T on mine right now, you could go even bigger without any modifications. The main clearance issue would be the optional tab on the battery tray, If you cut that off you should easily be able to fit a huge spur.
higher ends kits with no pinion just tells me "you spent a lot so you figure what type of ratio you want".. lower end kits with the pinions says "hey rookie..since you dont know what youre doing yet..well figure it out for you.."
I’ve been waiting for this one. Picked one up last week and haven’t started it yet.
It's a nice build to be honest
Good to see the screws per step! I’ll definitely be picking one up!
Oh mann i was sooo happy! Building was a breeze :D
He is back, big W
YISSSSSSSSS
These videos are always interesting even if you aren't looking to buy that particular model. The Japanese sticker says ヨコモ which is Yokomo
Awww yiss! I feel silly now that i said "E C E" in the video LOL will correct myself in the next video :D
FYI, the manual shows its 9.9 FDR using the supplied 83T spur and 24T pinion, but AFAIK that's wrong and by Yokomo gear chart is 8.992 FDR. I swapped mine back to 84T Axion spur and 20T pinion for 10.920 FDR that I'm used to with a 13.5T motor. The front lower arms are new and 4.5mm diameter arm adapters instead of current older 5mm ones. The springs are some new version and they are long and soft IMO, being 1.14mm wire size and same springs front and rear seems to make it lift the noise up a lot on throttle for the front & rear weight bias of this chassis. Car tends to body roll a little bit also and using 50Cst oil doesn't help it much, but it still works. The front and rear knuckles are from the SD2.0. Rear RR sus mount is new since they pushed the gearbox back way further and the arms are more forwards. I have already swapped my shocks to Yokomo Big Bores using 1.4mm 4 hole pistons with 150Cst oil and set for 11.4mm shaft length to match the stock plastic shocks. I also swapped out front and rear shock towers for aluminum, as well as the front bulkhead and rear upper arm mount to aluminum also. I use 5K diff oil with the AL lightweight drive cups instead of stock steel ones. The plastic hexes are swapped for 8mm front and 5mm rear, but I also put 1mm spacer on the rear 5mm rear hexes to make it 6mm, since the rear track is narrower by 2mm compared to previous cars. This car loves to swing and hold out the rear angle a lot on throttle, like a SD2.0, but it tends to be harder to transition quickly for me. I will most like try SD2.0 springs or Reve D "R-Tune" 2WS springs and move the motor forwards or move the ESC to front side on top deck like the SD2.0. Also note, you may need to add a 0.5mm to 1mm spacer to the upper deck front & rear or shave the turnbuckle slightly on the top side or even swap it to 4.3mm, as it may just touch the lower side of the upper deck, so make sure to check that. Could also use an adjustable servo arm set to 19-19.5mm instead of the stock plastic one which I think is set to 20mm length hole space. As for servo position, it sits slight back using the rear mounting holes, so it not a straight angle on the servo horn to bellcrank arm and needs to be actually positioned slightly off-center and to the right a little when looking from the front of the car to get even EPA setting values more even in your radio trim settings. The outer curved turnbuckle is a new 30deg version, unlike like previous ones you get with the current turn buckle sets. I also used the AL stopper pin instead of the M3 set screws in the front knuckles.
There's AL option parts coming, Y2-008RAW is the AL H-Arms that fit the SD2.0 & RD2.0, which it seems can also have weighted plates bolted to them as an option, Y2-415SAA is the SP Aluminum SP front knuckles for SD/RD2.0 & then there's Y2-202BB which is a new AL bell crank base that allows movement of the steering bellcrank forwards for more steering Ackermann adjustment, not just using the bar with shims like it comes with stock.
As a side note, at least I see what all those extra booklets and the sticker sheet looks like that it came with, as I never opened that up in the kit since I got it, lol
Love to see the sharing of info. I've dug into the RD2.0 quite a bit as well. A few things I've found and would like to share to add to this "knowledge base"
Transmission is moved to the rear by 5mm.
Transmission top deck mounts are integrated into the transmission case rather than using a top deck adapter like the previous yd-2 Z and S.
Transmission top deck mount is moved forward by 5mm to account for the box sitting 5mm further back, this allows the use of a standard Z/ZX top deck.
You will be able to use traditional rear suspension mounts but it will require a 3x50mm inner pin and 5mm of additional spacers.
The RD 2.0 and SD 2.0 transmissions are identical in terms of mounting holes and should be interchangeable
RD 2.0 shares the same motor mount as the SD 2.0 and MD 2.0.
I highly suspect we will see optional chassis parts for the SD 2.0 that will move its transmission to the rear to match the RD 2.0 changes. The 2 piece lower and upper deck design of the SD 2.0 facilitates these changes.
Heck yiss love all the details and infos :D Shakedown coming soon but comparisons first.
Yes! Finally
:D :D
Really curious about the shakedown once the time comes
Yiss it coming very soon!
Hi, do we need lock thread to build this kit ?
I just want the steering setup, i hope they sell it seperately so i dont have to rob a kit.
Yiss it should be available now I would imagine.
Can you please chceck what’s the maximum spur gear that RD2.0 can accomodate? From the pictures I worry that it would be 84T. I’m asking because where I drift we tend to go for high FDR - like 14+.
I run the 84T spur and there's plenty of space. It doesn't run close to the battery like the ZX does, even with a 25mm tall LiPo, but even if you needed more space, you can swap the left and right battery tray pieces and move the battery forwards instead slightly (the trays battery location space are molded offset to one side), which they don't mention in the manual, but it has posts for the securing tabs to screw to on both front and rear sides of the trays.
@@ezveedub238 Thanks for the reply!
I have an 88T on mine right now, you could go even bigger without any modifications. The main clearance issue would be the optional tab on the battery tray, If you cut that off you should easily be able to fit a huge spur.
Seems like 88T will fit fine, possibly even more but i've never had the need to run larger than an 88t 48p spur yet.
@@BadShoppe Awesome! Thanks for confirmation!
higher ends kits with no pinion just tells me "you spent a lot so you figure what type of ratio you want".. lower end kits with the pinions says "hey rookie..since you dont know what youre doing yet..well figure it out for you.."
In a way, yes. In another way it's "here's how we can make more $ from an already crazy expensive kit" lol
Which one is the best? Rd2.0 or reve d rdx?
Well so far it's the Reve-D RDX...because I haven't tested the RD 2.0 but it will have big shoes to fill!
@carbonfuryrc is dropping carbon chassis kits for this imminently! IE THIS WEEKEND! 🎉
Yiss i've been in tough with Mr Carbon Fury :)