Super low cost buck converter
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- Super low cost buck converter
LM2596 DC-DC Adjustable Buck Converter: goo.gl/61s7AP
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FAQ:
Me: Paul, 49 from USA
Education: United States Navy, University of California at San Diego B.S. E.E., University of Pittsburgh M.S. E.E.
Experience: United States Navy STS, Bayer Intnl Process Engineer, C.C.A.C AP of EE
Current: Retired
Health: BAD (Congestive Heart Failure)
Hobbies: Electronics, flying, amateur radio, music (classic rock)
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One of the best RUclipsrs for helping people make cools stuff. Thanks for your service.
I have used those buck converters for lots of projects, very handy to have in your modules bin to use whenever you need them.
I know, it's unbelievable how cheap these devices have become. Less than a $1, and remarkable for what it does.
Like you mentioned, wouldn't it have been great to have one of these devices years ago. Very handy devices, and 2 - 3 amps is decent amount of current capacity.
Yeah reversing leads, love it when I do that, as long as I don't my power leads. Bought a set of 5 off Amazon and love these.
You stated efficiency as volts in vs. volts out. Ah, no.. It's measured by comparing watts-in and watts-out. What you saw there was Vin minus Vf of the schottky diode + Rds of the Mosfet (which was small for this load). Cheers!
Exactly. This statement really annoyed me. Also, we never saw the multimeter being hooked up to the battery, so statements about the "efficiency" (ie voltage drop) were probably guesswork. I expect these questions to be handled properly when the comparison with the other converters is done.
P=V•I so he's half right 🤣
I have one or two of these kicking around. Handy wee module for low power stuff! 3 amps sounds optimistic but still great value!
3 amps intermittent, about 1.8 amps continuous give or take (sometimes needs a little help with cooling if enclosed or in a hot location/environment.)
Good range of voltages for well less than a buck. I hope your time off is for pleasure. Thanks for the video!
Hi Paul. I got one of these today from my RF guy. Going to substitute the potentiometer for a 10k or 5k thermistor. Going to use as a temperature dependent fan controller for my amplifier. Temp goes up, fan should increase in speed. I'll keep you posted.
Did it work?
@@odissey2
No. It would just turn on then off. What I wanted was something variable same as a computer fan. I put it aside after that.
@@bblod4896 Thank you for replying and an experimentation effort. It was too good to be true!
If you really plan on a good comparison test(s) between several units I would suggest the following:
Efficiency of power in Vs power out (both current and voltage measured, calculate power)
Total output noise at no load and full load using a scope.
I use these on stuff (like my newly converted 3d printer) to go from 24v to 12v because 24V LEDs and 120mm fans are stupidly expensive so I give those two items to the buck converter to handle. Put the buck to 12.8v and done. Fan runs very slightly faster and the LEDs run ever so slightly brighter. 0.78c and I bought two this last go around so a HUGE savings.
Many of these have a counterfeit chips, you can determine if yours is counterfeit by measuring the switching frequency with oscilloscope, instead of it being the stated frequency of the data sheet, it will be way lower, something like 50kHz
Interesting to know. I've got 6 coming here to the UK and will test them on my scope when they arrive.
I have 2 of these in my BITX 40. They can't be used for the main board because of switching noise induced into the audio. But I can use them to provide 25V for the final amp, and another one to further take 25V down to less than 12V for a cooling fan, all separately powered from the main board with 31V PSU. The main board has a 12V switching wall wart that imparts no noise into the audio. Plus a few ready to go for new projects. Never felt one feel more than a little warm to the touch. Skookum as frig!
I got 5 of these. Would have been nice to see output on scope (switch freq and ripple voltage)...maybe perform these tests when you get the others in so we can compare. Cheers!
Not that you care at this point, but I measured 500mV peak-to-peak ripple with a 600mA 3.3V load stepping down from 12V 😬
@@connorbelli1327 yikes, thx!
Just for voltage up or down (buck/boost), basically very cheap for very light load.
The costly ones are always about: bigger ampere & stable under heavy load. These are two main aspects that make buck/boost costly and complicated.
If the device fails will it then let the full source voltage through? And damage the load device.
From a freezing Northern Alberta (+7 celsius now): I can hear your air conditioning. If you have spare hot weather, please send it to Northwest (point to Alaska and you will not miss).
Hope you have in order boost-buck converter(s). It's same size as "regular" ones, but can be very helpful for battery/solar/multi power sources applications. So in theory, it can provide power to esp8266 from "small hobby" solar cell (~6v), lipo battery, etc..
I'm waiting for one somewhere in mail from China, based on XLSEMI XL6009E1. I expect huge losses (maybe 45% loss?) but I can get away with much less components.
Thanks Paul, Have a safe trip
I use those often for a 12V relay on a 36V e-bike battery. Add a cheap car-switch (with LED) and you can switch high currents coming from the e-bike battery.
Dude got the shortest thumbs I ever seen
I ordered 6 of these from China a few weeks ago. Still waiting for them to arrive in the UK.
The prices of all that Chinese stuff have gone up lately like crazy.
Saw it coming and bought a huge load of anything that might be useful in the future. 😎
I guess watching videos, even as good as yours and others, doesn't ensure success or even an adequate understanding ...
I'm trying to find a battery power source to power four strobe light units installed on my PARAMOTOR as we fly in often congested airspace. Air Force and civilian aircraft like to fly low over the water just off the beach here in Northern Florida just where we'd like to fly.
I purchased supposedly 12v truck led strobe light KIT to attach to my frame. I finally got a multimeter this week and measured the demo battery pack that comes in the strobe package (allows strobes to work on the store shelves) and - the batteries were providing 19.5 vdc.
So these are likely the fairly standard 12-24v LED strobe lights sold everywhere.
I have a spare 6S LiPo 50C battery pack that provides 22-25.5 vdc so I figured I use this. My plan was to wire up the LM2596 to measure the output voltage and adjust the potentiometer to 19-20 vDC output to test the strobe lights. Input measured 25.1vDC.I put the multimeter leads on the OUT side and made a short piece of twin lead wire connect the IN side and inserted them into the XT60 connector.
BOOM
A firecracker went off and the capacitor was gone. I turned the Multimeter on after I inserted the twin wire, don't know if that caused the overload - no load when connected?
The video said the LM2596 was rated for 30 vDC. A flying buddy offered that perhaps the 6S LiPo's amperage was too much.
I measured the 6S LiPo and it jumped around but seemed to be between 373 and 420 mA. It's a new Chinese multimeter and I probably don't know how to use it properly.
The small battery pack seemed to measure between 95 -200 mA when connected and would drop to ZERO when the button was pushed. Not sure I understand that behavior.
Any comments you'd care to offer to me. I have another spare buck to use but need to figure some other combination to power the strobe lights.
"Help me Obiwan ..."
Jim Sutton
I've used a lot of these on projects. Those trim pots are awful. The problem I get constantly is the trimmer pot failing and the voltage going crazy. I usually replace the pot with fixed resistors once I get the values. I limit their current output to 1A at most.
I now prefer the buck-boost versions of these for general use.( www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-DC-Boost-Buck-adjustable-step-up-down-Converter-XL6009-Module-Solar-Voltage-New-XQ-7/32825375441.html) Sticking anything from 3-30v in gets anything out. Usual current and power limits apply though.
Your efficiency calculation wasn't right. You only stated voltage in/out and not power in/out.
And as we all know lower voltage means lower current.
@PIXscotland, agreed. @Czar Zenana, no, it doesn't. If you said lower voltage at the same current means lower power, that would be correct.
It does if the resistance stays the same (V=I*R)
I said lower voltage and at a lower current means (even more) lower power (P=V*I).
Mine blew up when I try to adjust output voltage down
Thank you!
Should we use large capacity capacitor while using Buck Converter?
thanks for sharing
Great explanation
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How do you regulate the Current?
Nice video ! and better sound !
You're calculating efficiency based on 12v input. Sure the battery input is higher than 12v. I would say, at least 12.4 and that's a very low voltage for a lead acid battery. Still it's about 5% 6% loss only, not bad.
Can you control the current with the same potentiometer?
what if input voltage is not constant while it may varry from 7 to 14 voltage and we need constant 6 voltage constant.
Is this suitable for this scenario?
Can we get a negative voltage from two dc-dc converters like from two batteries?
I love using these modules but I hate the fact the varisistor is so erratic.
Thanks bought 4.
I've tried an XL4015 5A converter. It can supply 1.5A without needing a heat sink. Anyway, I'd like to know about pololu-2565. Does it really do what it says?
I'll check it out and get back to you.
And there’s silly me thinking they were called Buck Converters because they cost a buck (or less!)... 🤪 🤑 🐍
ROFL, makes more sense now!
So in effect, did you think buck-boost converters were simply boost converters costing a buck or less? 🤔😄
Martin Bøgelund 😂🤔🧐🐍
These things are a classic case of getting what you pay for. I wouldn't trust anything at this price, I would pay around double that and look to getting one that's rated at least twice as much as you need. The Chinese tend to be economical with the truth when it comes to how much current these things can handle. I've seen videos on tests done by experts who find that the ratings stamped on them is just to sell it to you. Buyer beware.
Do you know if the 2 ground cables can just go to the same ground?
Hi very interesting a quick question iv got one running a steady 5v out put using a 11v power block for the input could I change the power block input for a 12.5 v and will it still keep the steady 5v output ?
I think、Inside of chinease LM2596 has super horse, chinease super horse may be pig? the pig is bucking like a horse ,but the bucking freq is a little low .
How high volt can you step up from that 12V battery?
If we add a buck converter to output of a linear power supply in order to reduce the output voltage of that supply, the buck converter will add noise to the output I guess , due to switching ?? Anyone ? I'm trying to build a 5v 1a linear psu for a dac , so learning some basics. Thanks
Hello 👋 can someone help me out so I have a 24volt 1amp intel stick pc hypothetical if i we're to apply the convetors for a tft panel that runs off of 12 volts 2 amps along with this pc can I run it via 24 volt 5 amp plug 5.5mm to extension to two split 5.5mm males to two separate step downs buck convetor one for 24 volt 1 amp and the other to a buck converter that is rated for 2amp should this follow laws correctly in theory since the power rail is two separate DC lanes in series
Can I use one buck converter to go from 24v to 12v and then run a 12v .7a fan and a 12v 2a charger of it. Or do I need 2 separate converters?
Good day..Possible can replace the Cermet PotentiometerTrimpot Trimmer can replace with Breadboard Potentiometer or Bourns Multiturn Potentiometer?
Can these be conformal coated to make waterproof
Yes, you could pot them in epoxy
does this heat and blow up while giving 5v 2.5 amps for prolonged usage?? i am working on a DRL project on using neopixels in my motorcycle...and i need to pwer it using 12v battery...to 5v 3amps atleast
It stays within specs, but it get warm
Could this be used as a voltage standard will it hold calibration over time?
thanks my frend keep inform us
It's misleading about efficiency terminology regarding voltage drop off vs input voltage.
Would it be safe to draw ~30watt from this?
Probably not without additional cooling
The components alone are worth more than a dollar. If that was made her in the USA how much do you think that would cost?
$39.99
@@learnelectronics Exactly what I was thinking. I must have hundreds of different style.
If the input voltage drops, say, from.. 7-8 vdc, to.. 5vdc (like 2 18650s in series) will the regulator, even a smaller one, continue to provide the desired output? Thanks
Also, the closer the input vdc is to the output vdc, is the converter running at a better effeciency?
Depends on the drop out voltage of the regulator
can these be run in parallel to up the amps?
Hi can someone help me, can we use a buck converter, with and input from motorbike battery having high current and power arduino board? Like the output should be 10-7v and 1 or 1.5 amps??
What amperage are they rated for? Wouldn't that blow the converter from to high of an amperage battery? Just curious.
About 3 amps.
Can I get a module that converts from 220vac to 12vdc
Could I connect this up to a USB cable and go from the 5V to 3V the same as two AA batteries ?
Yes you can
can these be used to make split rail supply like the lm317 does?
I'm not sure
I bought TWO for 71CENTS... free shipping. insane. From bytedancer on Ebay US.
Minzat Catalin yes I tried it for recharge battery but the led discharging it I put one diode between battery and this buck board then the led started blinking the output voltage fluctuating can anyone suggest a solution
Minzat Catalin yes I tried it for recharge battery but the led discharging it I put one diode between battery and this buck board then the led started blinking the output voltage fluctuating can anyone suggest a solution
You can't say it's 98% or what ever efficient without measuring both input and output voltage *and* current... output power/input power is you efficiency.
Your videos in general seem to have have lots of gross oversimplifications that are some times completely wrong and the errors aren't subtle or insignificant either.
I'd like it if you stepped your game up a bit regards to accuracy. :/
Thanks for the input.
I have a number of ICs to build buck and boost converters but these super cheap buck and boost from China make it really not worth the time to put together. I have 10 each of this and a similar boost on the way from Shenzen..
Yo I have the same pen as you! Isn't that mildy interesting
Those are nice pens. I have one too.
Hello, can you connect two of these together to get more amps? Thank you
No you cant. They will try to correct eachother's voltage, causing one to think the voltage is already to its target, while the other is actually doing all the work. In short: just no. Causes problems
I think your channel's name applies to you as well. Efficiency is not just the ratio of Vout to Vin. There is the role of input and output currents as well along with voltages. Efficiency is ratio of output energy to input energy. Do some research before making videos please.
Cheaper to get the knowledge from china than to do research. They make everything there these days, including knowledge. They would claim 96% efficiency max, which sounds about right.
This sh*t is unstable in heavy load.
👍👊😁