Great video. Certainly lots of changes there since I climbed Hood in May 1968. The climb looks harder, now, but the equipment is a lot better. We started at Timberline at 3 a.m. and reached the summit at 9:30. Then, the Hogback ran almost all the way to the summit. Equipment was a lot different, too. We wore Levis (with long johns), wool shirts and sweaters, with 60/40 shells. Crampons were 8-point. Ice axe (only one) had a 32-inch wooden shaft. No helmets. Our leader had the only headlamp.
David Kuhns wow!! What a great story. Thank you for sharing. Technology these days is incredible and we are so lucky to have the gear that we do have. I’m sure Mountaineering was a much tougher sport back then.
Hey, i think you were the guide that gave us the good beta on the snow conditions going up the pearly gate. My twin brother and I were at the top of the hogs back.if that was indeed you, thank you for your advice, we had a great climb up Mt Hood.
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 we were the twins who were below you as and your client were descending the upper portion of the hogs back we were right at the point where one would decide to go either toward the old chute or to the pearly gates.
Holy shit this brings back memories. I made the exact same mistake back in 2007. But that day there was no snow in the chute, only ice. Also, I only had a single dull mountaineering axe instead of dual ice axes and dull aluminum crampons. Both were rentals from OSU's outdoor department. Most stressful hour of my life going up that thing with shit gear and no ropes.
I would suggest Adams or St. Helens to start. Even the beginner routes on Hood involve steep snow climbing and/or alpine ice climbing, and you need proficiency in use of ice axe and crampons and the ability to self-arrest. While the routes on the south side aren't considered technical, they still require skill and people die up there because they underestimate the difficulty. I would practice and hone my skills on Adams or St. Helens and maybe then consider Hood.
This route goes directly up the hogsback bypassing the chute and the pearly gates. Interestingly, I haven’t found a name for it. We descended the pearly gates.
Ty M_00 the Rab Ether, Fulcrum, and Guide lite are typically the lightest waterproof gloves I’ll use. For a super light glove I love the Rab M14. It’s not waterproof so I treat it every few climbs and holds the water out just fine. The problem you’ll find with waterproof gloves is that your hands will sweat more. Basically making the waterproofing worthless.
Gear Zen it’s just preferred and typical on this Mountain. Often times the area is so heavily populated, rope teams have fallen and killed other rope teams dragging them into the nearby schrund. The descent that day had incredible conditions. Rarely do people decide to rap down that route. If we took the time to establish a belayed ascent, the teams awaiting their turn would be standing in a dangerous area under an ice and rock fall area. I definitely recommend roping up when it’s the safest option. Rarely is it not, which was the case here. Other routes on the mountain are typically roped up for. Thanks for the great question!
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 is a slip on the steep section certain death? Climbing without pro, even relatively easy terrain, gives me pause. Maybe it's just that I am getting older and wiser. Anyway, thanks for the video. Looks like a beautiful climb and summit.
Gear Zen people have fallen. Seems that half live. The day we were on the Mountain conditions were great and there is a long runout at the bottom. A self arrest could have easily been done with experience. Most of the time, the people that fall have a lack of experience and don’t respect the Mountain. Of course, anyone can fall at anytime. Keep climbing and have fun!
It’s one of the easiest. Some would argue that going up the “chute” is less technical. Both routes are in the same vicinity. Both are fairly non technical.
i really want to make this climb! Haven't ever done mountaineering, but have run lots of ultra marathons and ten 100 milers. Still, it seems a bit scary. Any advice?
Yes Jerry, join a mountaineering club like the Chemeketan's in Salem or Mazama's I believe in Portland. Or you can hire a local guide service. They can teach you the basic techniques in climbing. They will show you the knots you need to know, and most importantly how to perform a self arrest should you slip and fall. I used to guide on the mountain in the 90's. I would only take a new climber with certified prior training. NEVER let a buddy talk you into doing an Alpine climb without you first getting the proper training. It is easy to get into a dangerous situation and not know how to handle it, properly. I can't stress that enough! And when you make the first climb there should be three on your rope team . A new climber should always be tied into a rope between two experienced climbers. That way the experienced climber can set-up a belay system should the need arise. And don't ever be hesitant to tell someone on your rope team that you are afraid or don't feel comfortable with the route you are on or the required moves. Jeff Lowe once said, "If you can't work up a good spit climbing a route, you probably should not be there." Also rent your equipment first and see what works for other climbers. That means boots, crampons, harness and ice axe (needs to be the proper fit for you.) Send me a note if you have more questions.
Realize that your running experience translates very little to most alpine climbing skills... but your solid fitness base will make the climbs feel easier. There is a lot more to mountaineering than the mileage and elevation gain! Unfortunately, it's a sport where most beginners don't even know what they don't know (until it's too late). In fact, I've seen factors like exposure and insecure footing give really athletic people a huge mental block! Additionally, you can be taught skills in a "classroom" but you will really only learn from your experiences. So give mountaineering a shot, but remember, it's very easy to get lucky out there so be safe and make conservative decisions! The summit is only halfway :)
This is a comment from someone pretty ignorant to mountaineering, but how the hell is this considered "non-technical"?? That ascent/descent looked straight up and down ?!?!?!
Haha. Thanks for the comment. Yeah, I'd say it's all based on personal comfort levels and experience. This actually is one of the easiest routes on Mount Hood and is considered "non technical". Later in the year, the pearly gates does get less "vertical". You can pretty much walk up and down it in July. Also, checked out your channel. Pretty sweet stuff!
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 ahhh ok, so later in the year is my ticket 😂 thanks for that info. Went up to Crater Rock yesterday. Thanks for the kind words on my channel!! 🙌 appreciate that!!
It is a relatively easy climb for a competent climber. For beginners I would recommend a few easier climbs first. Also, keep in mind this is not the least technical route! I have a newer video of Mount Hood showing the least technical route on the Mountain.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video.
Certainly lots of changes there since I climbed Hood in May 1968. The climb looks harder, now, but the equipment is a lot better. We started at Timberline at 3 a.m. and reached the summit at 9:30. Then, the Hogback ran almost all the way to the summit. Equipment was a lot different, too. We wore Levis (with long johns), wool shirts and sweaters, with 60/40 shells. Crampons were 8-point. Ice axe (only one) had a 32-inch wooden shaft. No helmets. Our leader had the only headlamp.
David Kuhns wow!! What a great story. Thank you for sharing. Technology these days is incredible and we are so lucky to have the gear that we do have. I’m sure Mountaineering was a much tougher sport back then.
I love the shadow of the mountain at 2:41. That's me waving from Hillsboro. LOL
Oh boy, what a steep climb, nice views of mount Shasta in the background, great weather, give us more summits :-))
Thats actually Mt Jefferson and the three Sisters. At the summit you can see Mt Rainier, Mt Adams, and Mt St Helens.
You know the ropes in your district, i got confused, great vid for us to make some plans while staying at our home for such a long time ☺
Hey, i think you were the guide that gave us the good beta on the snow conditions going up the pearly gate. My twin brother and I were at the top of the hogs back.if that was indeed you, thank you for your advice, we had a great climb up Mt Hood.
I remember talking to two guys at the bottom of the hogsback. Was that possibly you?
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 we were the twins who were below you as and your client were descending the upper portion of the hogs back we were right at the point where one would decide to go either toward the old chute or to the pearly gates.
I think you had possibly lost your glasses.
@@thetbcfamily got it! Yeah you guys were awesome!! Hope you’re both still out there climbing!
really love your videos!
Thank you so much!!!
Awesome video. Thank you guys.
Thank you so much for watching!!
Holy shit this brings back memories. I made the exact same mistake back in 2007. But that day there was no snow in the chute, only ice. Also, I only had a single dull mountaineering axe instead of dual ice axes and dull aluminum crampons. Both were rentals from OSU's outdoor department. Most stressful hour of my life going up that thing with shit gear and no ropes.
Is mount hood a good first mountain or does it depend on the route?
The pearly gates is the main route. But there are many other too the top.
I would suggest Adams or St. Helens to start. Even the beginner routes on Hood involve steep snow climbing and/or alpine ice climbing, and you need proficiency in use of ice axe and crampons and the ability to self-arrest. While the routes on the south side aren't considered technical, they still require skill and people die up there because they underestimate the difficulty. I would practice and hone my skills on Adams or St. Helens and maybe then consider Hood.
this looks dangerous
Which route is this on the mountain?
This route goes directly up the hogsback bypassing the chute and the pearly gates. Interestingly, I haven’t found a name for it. We descended the pearly gates.
nice video, keep them coming.....gets boring on graves!
😂
Odd question but for climbing have you found a reliable pair of light weight / thin glove that is water proof
Ty M_00 the Rab Ether, Fulcrum, and Guide lite are typically the lightest waterproof gloves I’ll use. For a super light glove I love the Rab M14. It’s not waterproof so I treat it every few climbs and holds the water out just fine. The problem you’ll find with waterproof gloves is that your hands will sweat more. Basically making the waterproofing worthless.
Is there a reason for not roping up? Also, why not rap instead of downclimbing on the steep sections?
East Coast climber questions......
Gear Zen it’s just preferred and typical on this Mountain. Often times the area is so heavily populated, rope teams have fallen and killed other rope teams dragging them into the nearby schrund. The descent that day had incredible conditions. Rarely do people decide to rap down that route. If we took the time to establish a belayed ascent, the teams awaiting their turn would be standing in a dangerous area under an ice and rock fall area. I definitely recommend roping up when it’s the safest option. Rarely is it not, which was the case here. Other routes on the mountain are typically roped up for. Thanks for the great question!
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 is a slip on the steep section certain death? Climbing without pro, even relatively easy terrain, gives me pause. Maybe it's just that I am getting older and wiser. Anyway, thanks for the video. Looks like a beautiful climb and summit.
Gear Zen people have fallen. Seems that half live. The day we were on the Mountain conditions were great and there is a long runout at the bottom. A self arrest could have easily been done with experience. Most of the time, the people that fall have a lack of experience and don’t respect the Mountain. Of course, anyone can fall at anytime. Keep climbing and have fun!
lol was he saying dicey???
Yes!
Lol your climbing partner is so grouchy 😂
Here go screaming barfies!!! :))))
Hahaha.
Awesome video. Is this the easiest route?
It’s one of the easiest. Some would argue that going up the “chute” is less technical. Both routes are in the same vicinity. Both are fairly non technical.
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 Sweet thanks. I am doing some learning about this mountain. Very impressive climb!
@@MattCookOregon sweet! It’s certainly a very fun climb. Thanks for watching and I hope you get an opportunity to climb it at some point!
i really want to make this climb! Haven't ever done mountaineering, but have run lots of ultra marathons and ten 100 milers. Still, it seems a bit scary. Any advice?
Yes Jerry, join a mountaineering club like the Chemeketan's in Salem or Mazama's I believe in Portland. Or you can hire a local guide service. They can teach you the basic techniques in climbing. They will show you the knots you need to know, and most importantly how to perform a self arrest should you slip and fall. I used to guide on the mountain in the 90's. I would only take a new climber with certified prior training. NEVER let a buddy talk you into doing an Alpine climb without you first getting the proper training. It is easy to get into a dangerous situation and not know how to handle it, properly. I can't stress that enough! And when you make the first climb there should be three on your rope team . A new climber should always be tied into a rope between two experienced climbers. That way the experienced climber can set-up a belay system should the need arise. And don't ever be hesitant to tell someone on your rope team that you are afraid or don't feel comfortable with the route you are on or the required moves. Jeff Lowe once said, "If you can't work up a good spit climbing a route, you probably should not be there." Also rent your equipment first and see what works for other climbers. That means boots, crampons, harness and ice axe (needs to be the proper fit for you.) Send me a note if you have more questions.
Realize that your running experience translates very little to most alpine climbing skills... but your solid fitness base will make the climbs feel easier. There is a lot more to mountaineering than the mileage and elevation gain! Unfortunately, it's a sport where most beginners don't even know what they don't know (until it's too late). In fact, I've seen factors like exposure and insecure footing give really athletic people a huge mental block! Additionally, you can be taught skills in a "classroom" but you will really only learn from your experiences. So give mountaineering a shot, but remember, it's very easy to get lucky out there so be safe and make conservative decisions! The summit is only halfway :)
This is a comment from someone pretty ignorant to mountaineering, but how the hell is this considered "non-technical"?? That ascent/descent looked straight up and down ?!?!?!
Haha. Thanks for the comment. Yeah, I'd say it's all based on personal comfort levels and experience. This actually is one of the easiest routes on Mount Hood and is considered "non technical". Later in the year, the pearly gates does get less "vertical". You can pretty much walk up and down it in July. Also, checked out your channel. Pretty sweet stuff!
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 ahhh ok, so later in the year is my ticket 😂 thanks for that info. Went up to Crater Rock yesterday. Thanks for the kind words on my channel!! 🙌 appreciate that!!
Corona virus zombie sounds. OMG
I thought this was supposed to be an easy climb, this does not look easy.
It is a relatively easy climb for a competent climber. For beginners I would recommend a few easier climbs first. Also, keep in mind this is not the least technical route! I have a newer video of Mount Hood showing the least technical route on the Mountain.
@@teatimeinthealpine5752 got it, thank you!