Never had a leak, but all good fun to watch... Most of your videos I watch, aren't even things I need to know about, very interesting/ informative. Cheers
Really clear and helpful. The tip about using a flat faced socket was something I'd not picked up in a smilar the Suntour video - probably saved me a lot of bother, thanks!
DUDE! I searched RUclips head to toes and the only video I found that were able to enlight me about air leaking forks was yours! Hands down to your formidable explanation, it helped a lot. I'll check what's going on my old Suntour X1 26" fork.
I've just had my first dealings with air sprung shocks, my previous bike had them but I bought that bike of my son who's a very experienced bike mechanic and sorted all that for me. My current bike has RockShox 35 Gold RL Crown adjust Q15x110 DebonAir e-MTB 160mm and Fox Float DPS Performance Trunnion 3-Position Evol LV custom tune 205x65mm. I understand that it's a decent suspension by all accounts. I noticed after 1600 miles that the sag was not quite where it was when I bought it so bought a £20 shock pump and tried to pump things up. The pump would go solid at the end of the stroke so I asked my lad and he told me I'd not spent enough cash. I went out on Sunday and bought a 600 psi Rockshox pump and what a difference it makes, no resistance at the end of the stroke and pumps like a dream. Thank you for the video Dave, very informative and useful. My set of tools and equipment is getting a bit out of hand now, but I love the independence of doing things myself. The scene has changed massively since I used to ride my bike to school in the early 70's. The bikes were really heavy but needed no maintenance only puncture repairs and adjust the the rim brakes and brake blocks. Do you remember the rod operated brakes with no cables?
Brilliant! I'm also suspecting that my rockshox reba dating back to 2013 to be not able to sustain air pressure over time. And I was quite helpless about this up to now what to do and how to proceed. I'm very grateful for the undoubtedly your very clear tutorial. Moreover your very calm, clear and well articulated language is admirable. Yet, I still ponder over the following point: The goal in this video is to pump until a pressure of 100 psi is reached and watch if that pressure doesn't decline over a certain period (24 hours). But when unscrewing the hose of the pump from the valve it is inevitable that some/ a little air leaks out of the valve, whereby the pressure in the fork will go down by a few units. And when the pressure is to be verified hours later, the ambient air in the hose of the pump will first have to be pressurerised by the air coming out of the valve. As the volume in the fork is rather restricted, again a (considerable?) loss of pressure will occur. Finally the guage of the shock pump will presumably display a pressure of less than 100 psi (how much less?) even if there is no leakage in the fork itself. Not having enough experience in this area, it's hard for me to assess how much less measured pressure than the initial 100 psi is tolerable. I would appreciate your opinion about this. Thanks a lot!
Hi, thanks for watching and your great comments. I understand what you are saying and you are correct in your understanding, however it's sometimes better to simplify the process. Because the fork air side has a small volume the slightest leak makes a massive difference. there is only one fork pump that I know of that can reduce the air loss when taking it off and on. there is also the possibility of the air shaft o ring is slightly perished and leaking down into the fork lower creating negative pressure. you will hardly ever get the same reading when adding or removing pressure even if you over compensate for the loss.
Good video, i have a Marzocchi 55 cr fork, and the air side is leaking air, and also have so much pressure in the chamber that leak a little bit of oil in the botton, i have replaced seals but still leaking air into the bottle, any suggestions?
How exactly did you get rid of the oil in the top cap? Silly question I know but I need to know! And thank you again for an absolutely brilliant tutorial. ❤👍🏿
Great video! Just found it because I can not inject any air into my Tora 318 after a long time no-use. Perhaps it has the same problem with the fox in your video. I will follow your video and try. :D
For some stupid reason, I had it in my head for months that it was not the valve core. But I followed the advice and... It was the valve core. Luckily I used oil and not water because it sucked it all up!
Thanks, informative video. I run a set of maverick sc32 forks love them. The lock out and rebound has seemed to have stopped working. I want to have a look, and give them a full service. I have new dust wiper seals for them, other o ringes are standard sizes,and the fork is apparently easy to work on. But I'm struggling to find any detailed information, service manuals. Was wondering what you would do? Any advice would be appreciated. Kind regards.
Hi Peter, If I correct Maverick are based in the states, First thing I would do is research where they were made and who if anyone offers to service them. once you have found this, send them email asking if they could give you any info for what you need. try contacting these first mavericksuspension.com/service/
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic thank you for your help. That link is awesome, all the sites I tried said page no longer exists. Hope you have a good day 👍. Thank you again.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic Many thanks for this guidance. For a leak in the exact same area, is it possible to only remove the valve assembly using a nut socket of 3/8”, changing the O-ring and putting back the valve assembly whilst leaving in place the larger casing which require a 24 wrench to unscrew. Or does one also has to remove the large casing before taking out the valve assembly?
I have a "brake" question since u r a good mechanic. My hydraulic disc brake squels. I changed both the rotor and pad, simano. For few days it was okay but then it started squeling again. I did not ride outside after i changed the rotor and pad, i have kept it inside the warehouse. Now i do not understand why it squeled. Both front and back wheel.
Thank You so much! I just installed a new air fork, and lost all the air overnight! I am so hopeful on how to proceed now! Possibly the valve tube was not correctly tightened from the factory?>
Hi, this is Dick from the Netherlands. Thanks for this video, I am getting to understand forks. I have a queation, On my Ebike I have a x fusion fork, 2932 MIG. The fork does not move smooth, it seems there is some resistant in it. How can I fix that, do I need to maintance the sleeves? How do I have to do that? Hope to get an answer. Kindly regards from the Netherlands
Hi Dick, Yor for are more complex than you may think, they need a refresh service every 50-100 hrs, this will make them plush again unless there is damage or the functions are not working properly, if thats the case they need a full dealer service unless you have the tools yourself
Hi, Thanks for watching, forks differ but we keep a selection in the workshop like this one www.amazon.co.uk/AUTOUTLET-Conditioning-Assortment-Appliance-Appliances/dp/B07CXMKQT1/ref=asc_df_B07CXMKQT1/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=375433475241&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=267469620274316069&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006757&hvtargid=pla-644647732953&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=79769156594&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=375433475241&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=267469620274316069&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006757&hvtargid=pla-644647732953
Hi Dave, I’ve got a pair of ohlins RXF 36 m.2 evo forks and the stanchions actually have play in the lowers, I’ve ordered a seal kit for it and wondered if you think that is the issues?, thanks 🙂
Hi Aston, What year are they and how much use have they had, also when you say play, do you mean play when rocking back and forth and the front brake is on ?
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic we’ll my bike is a 2018 specialized enduro so I believe they’re a 2018 model and they’ve had a good amount of use and I’m sure they haven’t been serviced since new. Also yes there is a little bit of rocking and I’ve noticed there’s about half a millimetre of movement within the main fork seals, cheers
@@S0GGY-BREAD It sounds like the inner bushings are worn, new dust seals and foam rings wont make any difference, they need to go to a specialist for a service, are you in the UK?
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic o riginally thought it would be the seals but you mentioned bushings so i shall get some ordered in. i am in the UK yes (sheffield) but I'm going to attempt it myself so ill get some bushings ordered in, cheers once again dave
Hi Gabe, It's a tricky one to answer because most oils are formulated to the specific use, however if you have no other oil to use then yes. Chain oil is quite heavy so it sticks and clings to the metal but chain oil is better than non.
hello my Fox Rhythm 34, EVOL, GRIP stays sucked down about 3-5mm and when i lift my bike up it goes back to full travel and i cant fix it. would you have any suggestions what the problem could be? and fork is brand new
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic its a 2022 trek fuel ex 8 i weight 72kg (158 lbs) and yes i have set sag different times to different points and once i inflated my fork to 120 psi then it didnt suck it down but im starting to think that there is just too much oil in air shaft i heard its normal with fox forks. but its so annoying that my stanchion is 145mm if i pull my fork down and lift the bike but then when i drop it back down it shows 140-142mm and when i bottom out there is that 5mm left of stanchions so my travel is 135mm and fox and trek suggests 15-20% sag so i have 15% now
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic and i can get 25% by reducing half of suggested 75 psi to 40 psi and it feels like something is figthing back if im trying to compress it and it wont go fully down if i take all air out of my fork
Хобби
Never had a leak, but all good fun to watch...
Most of your videos I watch, aren't even things I need to know about, very interesting/ informative.
Cheers
Hi Matty, thanks for watching, I really enjoy the idea of you watching when you don’t necessarily have the issues mentioned, thanks very much
Really clear and helpful. The tip about using a flat faced socket was something I'd not picked up in a smilar the Suntour video - probably saved me a lot of bother, thanks!
Glad it helped!
DUDE! I searched RUclips head to toes and the only video I found that were able to enlight me about air leaking forks was yours! Hands down to your formidable explanation, it helped a lot. I'll check what's going on my old Suntour X1 26" fork.
Glad you found me
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic I'll let you know if I manage to find and solve the trouble.
The same Fox Float, and the same leak. Thanks for the video!
You're welcome!
From 1 technician to another thanks! Learned a lot 👌
Thank you for watching and your comments, you are welcome
Many thanks for this video, after rebuilding a Fox 36 and still leaking I watched this and found it, brilliant, thanks!
Glad it helped
Happy New Year Dave. Keep up the great videos!
Thanks John, happy new year to you too
Thank you Sir. I now clearly understand how the air chamber keep pressure or leak air little by little by virtue of your kind explanations.
Glad it helped
Great explanation with great demonstrations
Glad it was helpful!
I've just had my first dealings with air sprung shocks, my previous bike had them but I bought that bike of my son who's a very experienced bike mechanic and sorted all that for me. My current bike has RockShox 35 Gold RL Crown adjust Q15x110 DebonAir e-MTB 160mm and Fox Float DPS Performance Trunnion 3-Position Evol LV custom tune 205x65mm. I understand that it's a decent suspension by all accounts. I noticed after 1600 miles that the sag was not quite where it was when I bought it so bought a £20 shock pump and tried to pump things up. The pump would go solid at the end of the stroke so I asked my lad and he told me I'd not spent enough cash. I went out on Sunday and bought a 600 psi Rockshox pump and what a difference it makes, no resistance at the end of the stroke and pumps like a dream. Thank you for the video Dave, very informative and useful. My set of tools and equipment is getting a bit out of hand now, but I love the independence of doing things myself. The scene has changed massively since I used to ride my bike to school in the early 70's. The bikes were really heavy but needed no maintenance only puncture repairs and adjust the the rim brakes and brake blocks. Do you remember the rod operated brakes with no cables?
Hi Jon, Thanks for your comments, I certainly do remember those type of brakes. im 60 next so Ive seen such a lot over the years
Got one of those pumps myself. Just need to find the leak.
Brilliant! I'm also suspecting that my rockshox reba dating back to 2013 to be not able to sustain air pressure over time. And I was quite helpless about this up to now what to do and how to proceed. I'm very grateful for the undoubtedly your very clear tutorial. Moreover your very calm, clear and well articulated language is admirable. Yet, I still ponder over the following point: The goal in this video is to pump until a pressure of 100 psi is reached and watch if that pressure doesn't decline over a certain period (24 hours). But when unscrewing the hose of the pump from the valve it is inevitable that some/ a little air leaks out of the valve, whereby the pressure in the fork will go down by a few units. And when the pressure is to be verified hours later, the ambient air in the hose of the pump will first have to be pressurerised by the air coming out of the valve. As the volume in the fork is rather restricted, again a (considerable?) loss of pressure will occur. Finally the guage of the shock pump will presumably display a pressure of less than 100 psi (how much less?) even if there is no leakage in the fork itself. Not having enough experience in this area, it's hard for me to assess how much less measured pressure than the initial 100 psi is tolerable. I would appreciate your opinion about this. Thanks a lot!
Hi, thanks for watching and your great comments. I understand what you are saying and you are correct in your understanding, however it's sometimes better to simplify the process. Because the fork air side has a small volume the slightest leak makes a massive difference. there is only one fork pump that I know of that can reduce the air loss when taking it off and on. there is also the possibility of the air shaft o ring is slightly perished and leaking down into the fork lower creating negative pressure. you will hardly ever get the same reading when adding or removing pressure even if you over compensate for the loss.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic Really appreciate your well founded answer! Will continue watching your tutorial videos.
Perfectly explained. Thanks a lot mate!
Hi, thanks for watching and your comment.
This was a brilliant tutorial. My issue was exactly this so many thanks. 🙂👍
Hi, Thanks for watching and your comment.
Very informative video. Thanks for your expertise!
Thank you, you are welcome
Good video, i have a Marzocchi 55 cr fork, and the air side is leaking air, and also have so much pressure in the chamber that leak a little bit of oil in the botton, i have replaced seals but still leaking air into the bottle, any suggestions?
Another great video Dave thanks
Thanks Nigel
Great video lots of useful info!
Glad you enjoyed it
honestly saying, this one of the best video i ever watched about suspension , plz tell me how to get all your videos about suspension?
Hi, thanks for watching and your comments, you will have to watch them all, lol
Thank you! Cool mudguard!
Your welcome thanks for watching
How exactly did you get rid of the oil in the top cap? Silly question I know but I need to know!
And thank you again for an absolutely brilliant tutorial. ❤👍🏿
Thank you for watching and your comments, I used paper towels and isopropyl alcohol
Great video! Just found it because I can not inject any air into my Tora 318 after a long time no-use. Perhaps it has the same problem with the fox in your video. I will follow your video and try. :D
Hi, Hope it helps thanks for watching.
Great video! 👍👍
Thank you! 👍
For some stupid reason, I had it in my head for months that it was not the valve core. But I followed the advice and... It was the valve core. Luckily I used oil and not water because it sucked it all up!
Thanks, informative video. I run a set of maverick sc32 forks love them. The lock out and rebound has seemed to have stopped working. I want to have a look, and give them a full service. I have new dust wiper seals for them, other o ringes are standard sizes,and the fork is apparently easy to work on. But I'm struggling to find any detailed information, service manuals.
Was wondering what you would do? Any advice would be appreciated. Kind regards.
Hi Peter, If I correct Maverick are based in the states, First thing I would do is research where they were made and who if anyone offers to service them. once you have found this, send them email asking if they could give you any info for what you need. try contacting these first mavericksuspension.com/service/
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic thank you for your help. That link is awesome, all the sites I tried said page no longer exists. Hope you have a good day 👍. Thank you again.
Really helpful, God Bless 👍
Thanks for watching and your comments
Very helpful Video 👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic, thank you!
You're very welcome!
Great tutorial. Many thanks for posting it. Is there a reference number for the O-ring on the valve assembly that you changed. How can it be sourced?
Hi Phil, the best way to find parts like o rings is by searching their parts catalogs.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic Many thanks for this guidance. For a leak in the exact same area, is it possible to only remove the valve assembly using a nut socket of 3/8”, changing the O-ring and putting back the valve assembly whilst leaving in place the larger casing which require a 24 wrench to unscrew. Or does one also has to remove the large casing before taking out the valve assembly?
I have a "brake" question since u r a good mechanic. My hydraulic disc brake squels. I changed both the rotor and pad, simano. For few days it was okay but then it started squeling again. I did not ride outside after i changed the rotor and pad, i have kept it inside the warehouse. Now i do not understand why it squeled. Both front and back wheel.
Hi, so difficult to diagnose without seeing im afraid.
Thank You so much! I just installed a new air fork, and lost all the air overnight! I am so hopeful on how to proceed now! Possibly the valve tube was not correctly tightened from the factory?>
Glad it helped!
Just amazing man! Helped alot, was totally noob before this video.
God bless You.
p.s. its all about details isn't?
Hi, Thanks for watching, glad it helped, and yes those minor details matter.
Note: Maybe I missed it but the schrader nut socket size is 3/8" and the outer socket (if you decide to use one) is 1".
Thanks for watching and your comments
Hi, this is Dick from the Netherlands. Thanks for this video, I am getting to understand forks.
I have a queation, On my Ebike I have a x fusion fork, 2932 MIG.
The fork does not move smooth, it seems there is some resistant in it. How can I fix that, do I need to maintance the sleeves? How do I have to do that? Hope to get an answer.
Kindly regards from the Netherlands
Hi Dick, Yor for are more complex than you may think, they need a refresh service every 50-100 hrs, this will make them plush again unless there is damage or the functions are not working properly, if thats the case they need a full dealer service unless you have the tools yourself
Hi so my marzocchi 2006 66 light fork is leaking air and I was wondering what size of o ring i would need for the valve.
Hi, Thanks for watching, forks differ but we keep a selection in the workshop like this one www.amazon.co.uk/AUTOUTLET-Conditioning-Assortment-Appliance-Appliances/dp/B07CXMKQT1/ref=asc_df_B07CXMKQT1/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=375433475241&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=267469620274316069&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006757&hvtargid=pla-644647732953&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=79769156594&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=375433475241&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=267469620274316069&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006757&hvtargid=pla-644647732953
Thanks alot for this vid... Do you have spare kit for EPICON air 26er? Thanks
Hi Richard, sorry we don't
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic thank you taking time answering... Subscribed to you channel.. very informative.. anyway, where are located in yorkshire?
nice video but you did not show us other link area a path from that air valve
I hear air coming out or the top when i press on the fork is that an air leak or no.BTW great video very helpful
Hi, Thanks for watching, you need to take a closer look
How to solve the air leakage from air putting point, at the valve point? Thank you.
Screw the core down tighter. You'll need a tool for that.
Hi Dave, I’ve got a pair of ohlins RXF 36 m.2 evo forks and the stanchions actually have play in the lowers, I’ve ordered a seal kit for it and wondered if you think that is the issues?, thanks 🙂
Hi Aston, What year are they and how much use have they had, also when you say play, do you mean play when rocking back and forth and the front brake is on ?
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic we’ll my bike is a 2018 specialized enduro so I believe they’re a 2018 model and they’ve had a good amount of use and I’m sure they haven’t been serviced since new.
Also yes there is a little bit of rocking and I’ve noticed there’s about half a millimetre of movement within the main fork seals, cheers
@@S0GGY-BREAD It sounds like the inner bushings are worn, new dust seals and foam rings wont make any difference, they need to go to a specialist for a service, are you in the UK?
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic o riginally thought it would be the seals but you mentioned bushings so i shall get some ordered in.
i am in the UK yes (sheffield) but I'm going to attempt it myself so ill get some bushings ordered in,
cheers once again dave
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic I thought that could also be a problem, yes I am in the uk (Sheffield)
can you use chain lube as an all-round oil?
Hi Gabe, It's a tricky one to answer because most oils are formulated to the specific use, however if you have no other oil to use then yes. Chain oil is quite heavy so it sticks and clings to the metal but chain oil is better than non.
Hi Dave do you do custom built bikes?
Thanks Ian
Hi, Yes we do, based on the frame that you decide on we can build to suit you. (component depending)
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic Thanks Dave I will give you a call Monday to discuss
Ian
My air shock is TRINX brand, if you have any experience please share the solution of small air leakage at the air blowing point, valve.
Hi, sorry Ive no experience with the brand
hello my Fox Rhythm 34, EVOL, GRIP stays sucked down about 3-5mm and when i lift my bike up it goes back to full travel and i cant fix it. would you have any suggestions what the problem could be? and fork is brand new
Hi, thanks for watching, have you set the sag to 25% ? What bike is it and how much do you weight?
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic its a 2022 trek fuel ex 8 i weight 72kg (158 lbs) and yes i have set sag different times to different points and once i inflated my fork to 120 psi then it didnt suck it down but im starting to think that there is just too much oil in air shaft i heard its normal with fox forks. but its so annoying that my stanchion is 145mm if i pull my fork down and lift the bike but then when i drop it back down it shows 140-142mm and when i bottom out there is that 5mm left of stanchions so my travel is 135mm and fox and trek suggests 15-20% sag so i have 15% now
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic and i can get 25% by reducing half of suggested 75 psi to 40 psi and it feels like something is figthing back if im trying to compress it and it wont go fully down if i take all air out of my fork
Hello! is there a way to test if there is a air leak to the lower leg? Thanks!!
There is no air in the lowers on most forks apart from under load
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic Yeah, I know, but my wiper seal popped out... and I read that it could be an air leak going into the lowers.
Mine has no air valve pls help it's swiss made reverse type
Which model is it please.
So to be clear, air only goes into the one shock? Why do both have air valves?
older forks had 2, newer forks only have one air side, the other is damping
what if my right fork is leaking
Thanks for your comment, thats a whole new ball game, depends where its leaking from?
12:12 Australian translation: shifter is used to fix bike
Lose all of it in less than an hour. Brand new, too (Rockshox Judy gold)
Back to the dealer for that one
@@davekaye32 turns out I was not screwing the pump all the way “on”. I’m altogether new to air forks.