Header wrap well worth the trouble of installing it! Your right calf muscle will appreciate it. Another tip. To remove insulation particles from skin pour white vinegar over exposed skin and it will dissolve the fiberglass particles!
Subscribed to your channel. Love the vids, very intuitive and helpful. Just replaced my head gasket and now installing headers and intake, both with your help! Thanks again!
Great video ... I installed a coated MSA header on my '72 Z this past summer. Yes, they are a pain to put on. BTW congrats on your youtube series ... you've reached the status of intermittent commercials within your video ... Lol!
Yeap, I definitely should've bought a coated header. Oh well... I'll just try to keep it out of the rain! This engine won't stay in the car for too long anyways, I'm completely rebuilding an engine to drop in. I'll take the header to get it properly coated then.
Love the videos! I study them all the time to try and get up enough nerve to start rebuilding my 78. Quick question....Did you have to drill out the header for the oxygen sensor hole yourself, or did it come with the hole already installed? And what size is it?
Thank god a header and 2.5 exhaust should be on ever Z. Its a true sports car ,part. That paint is only so the header doesnt rust in storage. Its in no way heat paint. Duplicolor , Eastwood, summit, jeggs or auto parts store sell hi heat paint even lowes and homedepot. The best I have found is from Bill Hirsch. I hang the headers heat it with a propane torch and brush or spray on thin layers of his paint it bakes in the headers. I use duplicolor on my cafe racer street bike it lasts and doesn't burn off (follow directions ) its cheap and easily to reapply. But the Z headers are hard to access once fitted so I like a more permanant solution from the beginning. Also if you had bought the more expensive already coated ones , its cheaper then to take your steel ones to be coated at a powder coater that does high heat . I have not heard from any body that has bought the msa coated one .If it has held up in use.??? The wrap is a good heat insulator some say it speeds up rusting. I say "rust" you can only do so much , "steel rusts" no matter what you do to prevent it it just needs one, scape, nic ,chip. And rust will start.Its an endless battle.on the bright side, you have rat rods that prove ,rust isn't all that bad GREAT GREAT VIDEO !!! AS ALWAYS !!!
Restoration For Beginners you have my support. Im with you. Im doing full restos on a 73 and a 78 removing as muxmch as possibke that the 240 doesn't have on the chassis to get the chassis to weight practically the same. Im back dating 280z tail lights and front turn signals .So they both look like 240z and Im changing out the dash to the higher gauge cluster of the 240. I never liked the "smushed down instrument cluster the 280 Z dashs have I love the "Batman eared " 240Z dash just rocks.
I just let it dry for about an hour, and it was dry enough for me to handle. It won't really cure until you fire up the car and let it heat up. It'll smoke like crazy, but it goes away after about 30 minutes.
Did u have any issues with the spaces, I've read some reviews that say the flange is not as thick on aftermarket headers and takes custom spacers. Does MSA have any issues?
Sargcj why would you weight them ? Not meaning to be rude . The headers help performance , although the stock exhaust was very well designed at the factory. The gains are only larger on a road coarse where mid to top end are essential.on the street its low end to med range grunt ,that is where the fun is. Its again not that its about weight but other factors are more important. If your using your car like I do as everyday transportation. . And you live in a cold wintery enviroment a stock manifold is more heat retention which you want in cold climates. If your in a hot climate , removing heat is far more important and with headers you can extract that heat faster Especialy wrapped , or coated or both and a heat sheild....louvres or ducts to move air in and out or down and out. Weight would not be a deciding factor , as there are more variables that should be important to evaluate , before weight.Weight will not matter if your motor is not giving you performance. Performance first then weight.
Haha the same one brother. A stock L28E, naturally aspirated with mooooostly stock parts. I never completely rebuilt an engine before, and I picked up a L28E with a N42 block, N47 head (same as the engine in the car) for $150 bucks on Craigslist. I figured I'll take my sweet time with it, research along the way, and hopefully be able to share the progress. At least for now, I want to see the car perform with the original engine. No carb conversions, no turbos, and certainly no engine swaps. Maybe in a year or two, I'll start to get a little more crazy with it.
Yeah man, I totally get it. The L28s were powerful in their day, but some guys just need that V8. Can't say I wasn't tempted to immediately go that direction as well when I bought this car and it was limping on 5 cylinders with a blown head gasket. Haha but the gearhead in me wanted to see if I could get the original engine purring, y'know? Once you swap, you never go back. So I'm trying to enjoy it for what it is for now.
Restoration For Beginners Definitely true. I'm replacing parts seeing what it can do with the triples and so far it's just a bunch of trial and error. After New year's I'll know how she runs. Too many options to go with nowadays
The only problem is that the HEAD itself is gay. it's the got the round exhaust ports with the steal inserts for emissions. Also the headers don't even have flanges to connect the pipes to. Get some Japanese headers
It's also best, in my experience, to carefully let the blade mark it's grove slowly before going full speed, once it actually digs in some it should go. With pressure on the blade and saw you can angle and turn cuts to some degree. It can be both a pro or a con depending on the situation and desired result. I'm not expert with them but I use them and side/angle grinders pretty frequently in my work. (We cut visible hanging tubes to length for O.R. Lights, steel for structure plates, and much more.)
Header wrap well worth the trouble of installing it! Your right calf muscle will appreciate it. Another tip. To remove insulation particles from skin pour white vinegar over exposed skin and it will dissolve the fiberglass particles!
Subscribed to your channel. Love the vids, very intuitive and helpful. Just replaced my head gasket and now installing headers and intake, both with your help! Thanks again!
Great video ... I installed a coated MSA header on my '72 Z this past summer. Yes, they are a pain to put on. BTW congrats on your youtube series ... you've reached the status of intermittent commercials within your video ... Lol!
Yeap, I definitely should've bought a coated header. Oh well... I'll just try to keep it out of the rain!
This engine won't stay in the car for too long anyways, I'm completely rebuilding an engine to drop in. I'll take the header to get it properly coated then.
Restoration For Beginners it eill coast more than the header !!!try Bill Hirsch high heat paint instead its air craft quality ! Good suff.
Dorman 03411 stud kit has 5mm hex heads for screwing in & out. Comes with 10 studs & nuts. Get 2 packs.
Love the videos! I study them all the time to try and get up enough nerve to start rebuilding my 78. Quick question....Did you have to drill out the header for the oxygen sensor hole yourself, or did it come with the hole already installed? And what size is it?
Thank god a header and 2.5 exhaust should be on ever Z.
Its a true sports car ,part.
That paint is only so the header doesnt rust in storage. Its in no way heat paint.
Duplicolor , Eastwood, summit, jeggs or auto parts store sell hi heat paint even lowes and homedepot.
The best I have found is from Bill Hirsch. I hang the headers heat it with a propane torch and brush or spray on thin layers of his paint it bakes in the headers.
I use duplicolor on my cafe racer street bike it lasts and doesn't burn off (follow directions ) its cheap and easily to reapply.
But the Z headers are hard to access once fitted so I like a more permanant solution from the beginning. Also if you had bought the more expensive already coated ones , its cheaper then to take your steel ones to be coated at a powder coater that does high heat .
I have not heard from any body that has bought the msa coated one .If it has held up in use.???
The wrap is a good heat insulator some say it speeds up rusting.
I say "rust" you can only do so much , "steel rusts" no matter what you do to prevent it it just needs one, scape, nic ,chip. And rust will start.Its an endless battle.on the bright side, you have rat rods that prove ,rust isn't all that bad
GREAT GREAT VIDEO !!! AS ALWAYS !!!
You're right on all counts. Thanks for the support!
Restoration For Beginners you have my support. Im with you. Im doing full restos on a 73 and a 78 removing as muxmch as possibke that the 240 doesn't have on the chassis to get the chassis to weight practically the same.
Im back dating 280z tail lights and front turn signals .So they both look like 240z and Im changing out the dash to the higher gauge cluster of the 240.
I never liked the "smushed down instrument cluster the 280 Z dashs have I love the "Batman eared "
240Z dash just rocks.
Did it take a long time for the silicone paint to dry/cure in the cold before handling?
I just let it dry for about an hour, and it was dry enough for me to handle. It won't really cure until you fire up the car and let it heat up. It'll smoke like crazy, but it goes away after about 30 minutes.
Did u have any issues with the spaces, I've read some reviews that say the flange is not as thick on aftermarket headers and takes custom spacers. Does MSA have any issues?
yeah, I wouldn't wrap all the way up to the flange. it was a major PITA to bolt back on.
What was the weight comparison of this vs stock?
(sorry for the late response) I didn't weigh them, but if I had to guess... 10-15 pounds?
Sargcj why would you weight them ? Not meaning to be rude .
The headers help performance , although the stock exhaust was very well designed at the factory.
The gains are only larger on a road coarse where mid to top end are essential.on the street its low end to med range grunt ,that is where the fun is.
Its again not that its about weight but other factors are more important. If your using your car like I do as everyday transportation. .
And you live in a cold wintery enviroment a stock manifold is more heat retention which you want in cold climates. If your in a hot climate , removing heat is far more important and with headers you can extract that heat faster
Especialy wrapped , or coated or both and a heat sheild....louvres or ducts to move air in and out or down and out. Weight would not be a deciding factor , as there are more variables that should be important to evaluate , before weight.Weight will not matter if your motor is not giving you performance. Performance first then weight.
Man that engine looks CLEAN, what engine you rebuilding in place of this one?
Haha the same one brother. A stock L28E, naturally aspirated with mooooostly stock parts. I never completely rebuilt an engine before, and I picked up a L28E with a N42 block, N47 head (same as the engine in the car) for $150 bucks on Craigslist. I figured I'll take my sweet time with it, research along the way, and hopefully be able to share the progress.
At least for now, I want to see the car perform with the original engine. No carb conversions, no turbos, and certainly no engine swaps. Maybe in a year or two, I'll start to get a little more crazy with it.
Restoration For Beginners Man I just went crazy with mine. Hoping to do an LS swap later later in the years. Trying to do a weekend warrior build.
Yeah man, I totally get it. The L28s were powerful in their day, but some guys just need that V8. Can't say I wasn't tempted to immediately go that direction as well when I bought this car and it was limping on 5 cylinders with a blown head gasket.
Haha but the gearhead in me wanted to see if I could get the original engine purring, y'know? Once you swap, you never go back. So I'm trying to enjoy it for what it is for now.
Restoration For Beginners Definitely true. I'm replacing parts seeing what it can do with the triples and so far it's just a bunch of trial and error. After New year's I'll know how she runs. Too many options to go with nowadays
What year is your Z? Options are good, means you won't have a chance to get bored. Haha, a continuous project, isn't that what we all really want?
The only problem is that the HEAD itself is gay. it's the got the round exhaust ports with the steal inserts for emissions. Also the headers don't even have flanges to connect the pipes to. Get some Japanese headers
your blade is too long for what your doing, that's why it's moving side to side...or the blade is crook just a little
Haha thank you, I'm not so great with power tools
It's also best, in my experience, to carefully let the blade mark it's grove slowly before going full speed, once it actually digs in some it should go. With pressure on the blade and saw you can angle and turn cuts to some degree. It can be both a pro or a con depending on the situation and desired result.
I'm not expert with them but I use them and side/angle grinders pretty frequently in my work. (We cut visible hanging tubes to length for O.R. Lights, steel for structure plates, and much more.)