Here's my latest video on pruning fruit trees in the home orchard. If you have any questions, leave a comment and i will try to answer them. Table of contents: 1. Reasons for Pruning - 0:08 2. Tree Shapes - 2:18 3. Shaping young trees - 3:09 4. Pruning Techniques - 5:12 5. Preserving fruit buds - 7:44 6. Pruning Examples - 9:15
In a home orchard we rarely see the row of perfect trees, all of the same size and development state, found in commercial orchards. We have to deal with trees old and young and we have to be more versatile in our pruning approach. That's a plus when showing viewers different pruning situations.
An ancient German reedfleshed apple named Sommerblutbirne. I grafted this variety as a curiosity in my 7-in-1 Pear Tree (featured in my video on "Grafting and Pruning Multiple Varieties Fruit Trees"), but it turned out to be a very good tasting Pear (and very productive too).
I have 3 apple trees and 3 plum trees, all are pretty old and have gone for a couple of years without pruning and I´m hesitant to pruning them. Originally they were very well pruned, open center like you do but they haven´t been pruned for some years and not by me so the shape is a little lost. Although my trees are a lot taller than yours - 4-6m high, I still get encouragement from your videos to try and help my trees. I hope I wont kill them :| Thank you for your help and videos!
If they are very old and are not pruned for some time you can reduce pruning stress by avoiding to prune heavily in one single year. Divide the pruning job for several years and correct the trees in small increments. That way there is no risk.
Thank you for this video. It's simple,straight forward and packed with important and understandable content even for a newbie like myself.I feel more confident to do my first pruning now,thank you. You've gained a new subscriber.
I wish you had a video showing how to prune loquats to keep them as small as possible. I love your videos and have successfully used what I have learned to graft poplars and other hardwoods in university research. Thanks!
Great video:) I have a cherry and a plum tree that are roughly 5 years old, they're too tall, pruned like vase at top. Would it be possible to do a pruning like at 3:00 and just cut the entire 'vase' off, then start over? And at what season would it be best doing so? They're in a northern climate. Thanks!
Great video as always! One of the best fruit-tree resources on the web! Do you have any experience with high-density systems such as tall-spindle for apples? Do you know if it would be possible to use individual tree stakes (e.g., galvanized metal conduit) with high-density principles (dwarf rootstocks, branch bending, columnar pruning) rather than a post-and-wire trellis? The reason I ask is that chemically-treated wood stakes are not permitted under organic rules and I find that rot-resistant cedar posts are very expensive in my area. So thinner metal stakes seems like a possible alternative, but not sure if it can support the fruit load. It seems you have a lot of experience with the amount of support that a dwarf tree requires. Thank you.
Thanks. I believe you can get away with individual tree stakes in high-density, using dwarf rootstocks, but you will lose some of the benefits of using a post-and-wire trellis (namely, branch bending would be more difficult and you will probably have to reduce the fruit load), Your best bet would be choosing varieties that adapt well to narrow columnar shapes.
Woww! It is all clear now. Except for the part of the fruiting parts of the plant that depends on the type of the tree. I wonder if you can make one on mango and/or citrus. Many thanks.
Um Pera antiga de origem alemã chamada Sommerblutbirne. Enxertei-a na minha pereira de 7 variedades (video "Pruning and Grafting Multiple varieties Fruit Trees") por curiosidade, pois achava que não seria de boa qualidade, só por causa do interior avermelhado. Mas, surpreendeu-me, pois tem um gosto muito agradável. Nem tudo é bom, pois os frutos são pequenos e não se conservam por mais de 1-2 semanas, mas é realmente uma variedade interessante.
@@JSacadura obrigada. Pois foi o que pensei, sendo vermelha por dentro deveria ser muito acida. Consegui uns garfos da maça Baya Marisa também da Alemanha, conhece? Vermelha por dentro mas com um brix de 16. A única variedade de polpa vermelha que é doce.
Conheço a Baya Marisa de nome. Não é a única maçã de polpa vermelha que é doce. A série Red Love também é bastante boa, como a Red Love Era que já me deu uns frutos muito agradáveis.
Your videos are the best! I think it’s safe to say many of us viewers have smaller yards and space is a limitation. Espalier seems to be a possible solution for that. Do you have any espalier trees and would you please consider making a video on this technique? Obrigado!
Hi, Jake. I have 2 rows with about 50 apple trees in a wired Trellis. The support system was added after the trees were planted and they were guided to the wires in an "espalier like system", but its not pretty (is different when you start the system from scratch with younger plants). I have a video planned to show the system as it simplifies pruning, supporting, helps in the tree maintenance and allows for greater production,compared with my unsupported trees. I probably will have lots of negative comments from the Espalier purists, but I will try to published it anyway, in the next few weeks, if I find the time. Thanks for the comment.
Good informative video. I have to sacrifice my fig tree because it became too tall for me to reach figs and I am doing drastic cut and probably very short and empty centre.
I let my figs send up multiple shoots from the ground, around 5 to 8 of varying age. As the oldest got too tall, I’d cut them at ground level. The next tier of limbs/ trunks would take their place, all producing fruit on the previous years growth. On their own roots, fig shoots are identical to their top, fruit producing wood.
Habitualmente apenas utilizo la pasta cicatrizante en plantas más viejas y en cortes de diámetro importante, ya que son los más difíciles de cicatrizar. En plantas más jóvenes no es absolutamente esencial hacerlo, ya que cicatrizan solas y más rápidamente.
We are having the same concern over here. Very colds spells are coming and some trees want to enter spring already. It doesn't look good and fruit production will probably suffer this year.
He’d need to devote and follow such a tree's growth, likely taking around 5 years.. Basically, you’d plant a ‘whip,’ then allow it to simply continue growing up. Open vase is a great choice, modified leader second ..then central leader.
Hi, John. I like "Figo Preto de Torres Novas" that matures in August. Moscatel Branco is also very good but matures a bit later (early September). Maturing in July, i would have to choose Lampa Preta.
Ola e obrigado pelo video. Porque e que a sua sistema "gota a gota" esta suspendido no ar, em vez de ficar ao pe dos raizes das arvores que consumem a agua?
I was wondering about your irrigation system. Is the line going through the trees the irrigation? Are there emitters on them? Also do you mulch your trees or do any holistic spraying? 🙏 thanks
Is the maintenance of citrus trees (typical lemon 🍋 tree in the backyard) significantly different? Have been learning a lot from your videos. Thank you!
Not much. If you follow the main pruning steps to produce an open vase plant (clearing the center of the tree) it suits citrus trees very well, as the fruits need light to develop well.
@@JSacadura Ok, good to know. You mentioned pruning broken branches. How would you go about taking care of a branch that (instead of braking off) has a big crack (can see through it in the branch part) that goes into the main trunk? We cut back the branch (this was years ago), so it doesn't have such a heavy load again. But not too close to the crack, as it feels it would make the tree more susceptible to further damage. I'm concerned that that crack is detrimental to the health of the tree. But cutting it away would mean removing about half of the tree. Sorry about the long text, and thank you for any input.
If the branch seems okay (apart from the crack) and still has a good flow of sap that allows fruit production, I would keep it (pruned, so the fruit load won't brake it). But if the tissues seem unhealed they could be an open door for disease that could endanger the tree. Sometimes, the only solution is to cut these cracked branches and hope that the tree produces new growth and rebalances itself (which may not occur). Its a though call and only you can decide which way to go. Good luck with your tree.
I'm getting my first two apple trees (bare root, 2 year, G890 rootstock) in a couple months. With my stone fruit trees (open vase) I head back the central leader to 2-2.5' and will let the trees get to 8' tall or so. If I want the apple trees a little taller, i.e. 10', where's a good point to prune the central leader for the open vase shape? 3-4' off the ground? I'm planting these trees as part of a wind break and would like them a little further off the ground (will have a line of shrubs / large grasses to start the wind break upwind from the trees). In future years I'll add in some pears and apricots, maybe a peach tree.
I might keep the whips as grafting material but I have no interest in air layering pears or apples as they don't grow very well on their own roots. But I do it on Fig trees, for instance.
🎄🎄🎄🍏🍎🍐🍋🍑🍈🍒On the larger branches, if you do air layering, that is to create your fruit tree into a Christmas tree😊 that’s basically stripping the park away until you get to the Cambie and layer applying at ball of soil all around the area then wrap it with plastic cloth was originally used or wool then within a few months you will have roots then you cut it 2 inches below the root ball and you have another tree and you pruned your tree💧💧🍹
Thanks. There are several different Pear varieties in this video, but if you are reffering to the one at min 9:10 (the red fleshed one) is a German heirloom called Sommerblutbirne. I got it out of curiosity and was not expecting much in terms of flavor but this small pear surprised me in that department. It has a coarse flesh (but not excessively) with a sweet and very pleasing taste. Unfortunately, its not a good keeper and in less than 1-2 weeks after picking, it gets mushy inside.
Hi! Thanks for a great video! Really appreciate your videos. Easy to follow and understand. I just have one question: Would you prune a cherry tree the same, using the vase-method for instance? Best regards, Johannez (Sweden)
I’ve pruned/ trained cherry trees to an open vase structure, works well. Vigorous, you definitely want to discourage them from going straight up. Heading cuts, to outward facing buds or small shoots, leads them in the right direction..
Olá jsacadura obrigado por mais uma aula sensacional . Queria saber a média de quantas macieiras uma pessoa pode plantar para que ela mesma possa cuidar : podar , adubar e controlar doenças fúngicas . Obrigada mais uma vez e para bens pelo seu trabalho até logo.
Olá, Ludimila. Penso que qualquer pessoa pode plantar uma dezena de macieiras e cuidar delas sem grande esforço. Eu não tenho maquinaria (trator) e trato de todas as minhas árvores sem ajuda, e a tempo parcial, e só macieiras e pereiras são mais de 100, fora as outras fruteiras. Mantendo as árvores baixas, controla-se tudo mais facilmente (podar, adubar e controlar doenças) e o trabalho fica facilitado.
Thank you JSacadura, we really like your educational videos. We'd like to share the videos for supporting the channel but we need to contribute with the subtitles in our community language. We are ready to do it if you allow it as an option.
Hi, I cut down on my one year old apple seedling/tree because I originally allowed it to grow too tall and spindly before starting training the tree. I now find the new branches it's trying to push out are dying back. Is this normal? I have another tree that I started training earlier, which is growing to my liking. I am growing them in the tropical Caribbean where we have no winter or dormancy period.
You can use any system with similar results. Nevertheless, some studies show that the Central leader has a slight edge in productivity and ease of management. Its the one I use for my trees.
How would you prune where you have a deer problem? Several of my apple trees are in an area that we have had to protect the trees to allow them to become tall enough that the deer can’t reach the productive area of the tree. If not, they will strip all of the leaves and new shoots and we don’t get fruit.
In my neck of the woods, deer are thick.. I’ll cage a tree the first 4 or 5 years, placing 3 or 4 steel posts a distance from their trunks then wrapping them in tight mesh fencing. I’ll tie and slightly bend future scaffold limbs to the posts for an open center, eventually removing the protection when the limbs are above easy reach of deer. Bucks often grind the trunks with antlers, so I’ll loosely wrap trunks with some left-over fencing..
Hi, Vrinda. I believe Moral Sin as already covered the main reasons for lack of fruit on Pear Trees. With Pear trees you have to be patient. If they are grafted on vigorous rootstocks (seedlings) they might take quite a few years to start fruit production (5-7 years is not uncommon). And, although some are self-fruitful (they can produce fruits on their own) having other Pear varieties, that bloom at the same time, will help a lot with fruit set.
Hi, Ronald. These are not "normal" trees. These are specialized rootstocks developed and selected for being able to induce early production (at the 2-3 year of growth there is a potential for a good crop of fruits) and the fruits they produce are of medium or large size depending on the variety grafted. Combine that with fruit varieties that where selected for being very productive and you will clearly see why you can't leave these trees unattended. They will grow unbalanced, will bear too many fruits, and might not survive, exhausting all their reserves in a very early age. A normal seedling will only bear fruits after 6-7 years and the tree will be fully grown by then. The tree will have a normal height ( a seedling pear tree will reach 4 meters or more) and the fruit size and number of fruits will be relatively small compared with the selected varieties. So we are talking about very different trees needs. The wild tree can perfectly survive well without pruning. The modern variety can't.
@@ronaldjones9429 Hey Ronald, I might add that native trees tend to grow straight up, competing with the forest. Reaching sun and filling out, they’ll generally set fruit, or seed if damaged or at full height. When we prune, we trigger a damage response. Upsetting their hormone balance, and assuming the end is near, they set fruit … while we continue to feed and defend them from nature..
im not a fan of clip and pray method. these trees tend to break, not look attractive, lean over, and die at an earlier age. i prefer modified central leader or modified open center shape.
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Here's my latest video on pruning fruit trees in the home orchard. If you have any questions, leave a comment and i will try to answer them.
Table of contents:
1. Reasons for Pruning - 0:08
2. Tree Shapes - 2:18
3. Shaping young trees - 3:09
4. Pruning Techniques - 5:12
5. Preserving fruit buds - 7:44
6. Pruning Examples - 9:15
Thank you for your effort to extend your knowledge to people.
Very educational and easy to understand .
Thanks again
Love that you show trees in various conditions it makes mine seem less scary.
In a home orchard we rarely see the row of perfect trees, all of the same size and development state, found in commercial orchards. We have to deal with trees old and young and we have to be more versatile in our pruning approach. That's a plus when showing viewers different pruning situations.
We’d get along. So nice to watch someone make similar cuts, at about the same pace. Thanks for the relaxing presentation.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the nice comment.
Thanks again. There's always something to learn from your videos.
Your pron video is much more important to us. Please always give your essential time to all farmers for their better knowledge.
Tough love leads to discipline 💚🌳
What is that beautiful pear you bite into at about 9:12?
An ancient German reedfleshed apple named Sommerblutbirne. I grafted this variety as a curiosity in my 7-in-1 Pear Tree (featured in my video on "Grafting and Pruning Multiple Varieties Fruit Trees"), but it turned out to be a very good tasting Pear (and very productive too).
JSacadura redfleshed pear 😁👍
Good catch. This is what you get for trying to reply to many comments too quickly ;-)
I have 3 apple trees and 3 plum trees, all are pretty old and have gone for a couple of years without pruning and I´m hesitant to pruning them. Originally they were very well pruned, open center like you do but they haven´t been pruned for some years and not by me so the shape is a little lost. Although my trees are a lot taller than yours - 4-6m high, I still get encouragement from your videos to try and help my trees. I hope I wont kill them :| Thank you for your help and videos!
If they are very old and are not pruned for some time you can reduce pruning stress by avoiding to prune heavily in one single year. Divide the pruning job for several years and correct the trees in small increments. That way there is no risk.
Excellent video. Thank you. I am learning about fruit tree pruning.
5th watch through. Pure Gold !!
Quem sabe, sabe! Obrigado. I live in Toronto Canada and I always use your pruning and grafting techniques. Thank you for your knowledge.
You are the best!!! Thank you soooooo much for excellent advice!
Thank you, your trimmed tree forms nicely.
Thank you for this video. It's simple,straight forward and packed with important and understandable content even for a newbie like myself.I feel more confident to do my first pruning now,thank you. You've gained a new subscriber.
Excellent explanations.
Obrigado que Deus o abençoe ricamente por esse grande trabalho .
Thanks again! I would love to see you make a video pruning Pink Lady.
Thank you, excellent information. Please do one on fig pruning, if possible.
Thanks for the suggestion. I will try, if i have the time.
Good day :))thanks 👍
I wish you had a video showing how to prune loquats to keep them as small as possible. I love your videos and have successfully used what I have learned to graft poplars and other hardwoods in university research. Thanks!
Great video:) I have a cherry and a plum tree that are roughly 5 years old, they're too tall, pruned like vase at top. Would it be possible to do a pruning like at 3:00 and just cut the entire 'vase' off, then start over? And at what season would it be best doing so? They're in a northern climate. Thanks!
can you give more information on how to prune tip-bearing apple varieties, such as Gravenstein? Thank you. Love your videos.
Thanks for your informative videos. It is helping us. We wii be waiting for your new videos.
Great video as always! One of the best fruit-tree resources on the web! Do you have any experience with high-density systems such as tall-spindle for apples? Do you know if it would be possible to use individual tree stakes (e.g., galvanized metal conduit) with high-density principles (dwarf rootstocks, branch bending, columnar pruning) rather than a post-and-wire trellis? The reason I ask is that chemically-treated wood stakes are not permitted under organic rules and I find that rot-resistant cedar posts are very expensive in my area. So thinner metal stakes seems like a possible alternative, but not sure if it can support the fruit load. It seems you have a lot of experience with the amount of support that a dwarf tree requires. Thank you.
Thanks. I believe you can get away with individual tree stakes in high-density, using dwarf rootstocks, but you will lose some of the benefits of using a post-and-wire trellis (namely, branch bending would be more difficult and you will probably have to reduce the fruit load), Your best bet would be choosing varieties that adapt well to narrow columnar shapes.
Splendid, thanks for sharing 👍
Excellent.
Woww! It is all clear now. Except for the part of the fruiting parts of the plant that depends on the type of the tree. I wonder if you can make one on mango and/or citrus. Many thanks.
Great information as usual. Jaime, que cultivar de pera era aquela que trincou (na parte de tirar excesso de fruta) com interior avermelhado? Obrigada
Um Pera antiga de origem alemã chamada Sommerblutbirne. Enxertei-a na minha pereira de 7 variedades (video "Pruning and Grafting Multiple varieties Fruit Trees") por curiosidade, pois achava que não seria de boa qualidade, só por causa do interior avermelhado. Mas, surpreendeu-me, pois tem um gosto muito agradável. Nem tudo é bom, pois os frutos são pequenos e não se conservam por mais de 1-2 semanas, mas é realmente uma variedade interessante.
@@JSacadura obrigada. Pois foi o que pensei, sendo vermelha por dentro deveria ser muito acida. Consegui uns garfos da maça Baya Marisa também da Alemanha, conhece? Vermelha por dentro mas com um brix de 16. A única variedade de polpa vermelha que é doce.
Conheço a Baya Marisa de nome. Não é a única maçã de polpa vermelha que é doce. A série Red Love também é bastante boa, como a Red Love Era que já me deu uns frutos muito agradáveis.
Great video! What hand pruners do you use?
You have so many videos!
I i appreaciate your deep knowledge do you have PDF files in all your courses ?
Great
Your videos are the best!
I think it’s safe to say many of us viewers have smaller yards and space is a limitation. Espalier seems to be a possible solution for that. Do you have any espalier trees and would you please consider making a video on this technique? Obrigado!
Hi, Jake. I have 2 rows with about 50 apple trees in a wired Trellis. The support system was added after the trees were planted and they were guided to the wires in an "espalier like system", but its not pretty (is different when you start the system from scratch with younger plants). I have a video planned to show the system as it simplifies pruning, supporting, helps in the tree maintenance and allows for greater production,compared with my unsupported trees.
I probably will have lots of negative comments from the Espalier purists, but I will try to published it anyway, in the next few weeks, if I find the time. Thanks for the comment.
Good informative video. I have to sacrifice my fig tree because it became too tall for me to reach figs and I am doing drastic cut and probably very short and empty centre.
I let my figs send up multiple shoots from the ground, around 5 to 8 of varying age. As the oldest got too tall, I’d cut them at ground level. The next tier of limbs/ trunks would take their place, all producing fruit on the previous years growth. On their own roots, fig shoots are identical to their top, fruit producing wood.
¿No es necesario ponerle pasta cicatrizante en los cortes gruesos?
Gracias
Habitualmente apenas utilizo la pasta cicatrizante en plantas más viejas y en cortes de diámetro importante, ya que son los más difíciles de cicatrizar. En plantas más jóvenes no es absolutamente esencial hacerlo, ya que cicatrizan solas y más rápidamente.
We’ve had such a mild winter that I’ve already got some well developed buds.. Hopefully they can hold out during the cold spells...
We are having the same concern over here. Very colds spells are coming and some trees want to enter spring already. It doesn't look good and fruit production will probably suffer this year.
Also here in the north of Portugal. My mango trees are already waking up...not good.
Make a video about how to train tree at central leader system??
He’d need to devote and follow such a tree's growth, likely taking around 5 years.. Basically, you’d plant a ‘whip,’ then allow it to simply continue growing up. Open vase is a great choice, modified leader second ..then central leader.
Another great video. Wich varieties of fig do you recommend for Jully/August ripening in Portugal.I spend the summers in Mira.
Hi, John. I like "Figo Preto de Torres Novas" that matures in August. Moscatel Branco is also very good but matures a bit later (early September). Maturing in July, i would have to choose Lampa Preta.
Ola e obrigado pelo video.
Porque e que a sua sistema "gota a gota" esta suspendido no ar, em vez de ficar ao pe dos raizes das arvores que consumem a agua?
Apenas para tornar a remoção das ervas mais fácil. Eu não gosto de usar herbicidas e com o tubo no chão o trabalho de roçar a erva é mais complicado.
I was wondering about your irrigation system. Is the line going through the trees the irrigation? Are there emitters on them? Also do you mulch your trees or do any holistic spraying? 🙏 thanks
In which month we should cut down the whip plants at desire heights to generate the new shape
Is the maintenance of citrus trees (typical lemon 🍋 tree in the backyard) significantly different?
Have been learning a lot from your videos. Thank you!
Not much. If you follow the main pruning steps to produce an open vase plant (clearing the center of the tree) it suits citrus trees very well, as the fruits need light to develop well.
@@JSacadura Ok, good to know.
You mentioned pruning broken branches. How would you go about taking care of a branch that (instead of braking off) has a big crack (can see through it in the branch part) that goes into the main trunk?
We cut back the branch (this was years ago), so it doesn't have such a heavy load again. But not too close to the crack, as it feels it would make the tree more susceptible to further damage.
I'm concerned that that crack is detrimental to the health of the tree. But cutting it away would mean removing about half of the tree.
Sorry about the long text, and thank you for any input.
If the branch seems okay (apart from the crack) and still has a good flow of sap that allows fruit production, I would keep it (pruned, so the fruit load won't brake it). But if the tissues seem unhealed they could be an open door for disease that could endanger the tree. Sometimes, the only solution is to cut these cracked branches and hope that the tree produces new growth and rebalances itself (which may not occur). Its a though call and only you can decide which way to go. Good luck with your tree.
@@JSacadura Thanks!
I'm getting my first two apple trees (bare root, 2 year, G890 rootstock) in a couple months. With my stone fruit trees (open vase) I head back the central leader to 2-2.5' and will let the trees get to 8' tall or so. If I want the apple trees a little taller, i.e. 10', where's a good point to prune the central leader for the open vase shape? 3-4' off the ground? I'm planting these trees as part of a wind break and would like them a little further off the ground (will have a line of shrubs / large grasses to start the wind break upwind from the trees). In future years I'll add in some pears and apricots, maybe a peach tree.
Hi, Nate. Yes, if you want your trees a bit taller, I would prune the central leader a bit higher. 3 feet will probably be fine.
Can you air layer the whips to start new trees before you cut it to spread or is it worth it?
I might keep the whips as grafting material but I have no interest in air layering pears or apples as they don't grow very well on their own roots. But I do it on Fig trees, for instance.
🎄🎄🎄🍏🍎🍐🍋🍑🍈🍒On the larger branches, if you do air layering, that is to create your fruit tree into a Christmas tree😊 that’s basically stripping the park away until you get to the Cambie and layer applying at ball of soil all around the area then wrap it with plastic cloth was originally used or wool then within a few months you will have roots then you cut it 2 inches below the root ball and you have another tree and you pruned your tree💧💧🍹
Thanks sir , your all videos are great , i always learn something new
Sir which variety of pear is that?
Thanks. There are several different Pear varieties in this video, but if you are reffering to the one at min 9:10 (the red fleshed one) is a German heirloom called Sommerblutbirne. I got it out of curiosity and was not expecting much in terms of flavor but this small pear surprised me in that department. It has a coarse flesh (but not excessively) with a sweet and very pleasing taste. Unfortunately, its not a good keeper and in less than 1-2 weeks after picking, it gets mushy inside.
@@JSacadura thank you so much sir,
Sir please make a video on rootstock propagation
How would you prune a new one year old wip, if the tree is to be used in the wild for Deer?
👑
Hi! Thanks for a great video! Really appreciate your videos. Easy to follow and understand. I just have one question: Would you prune a cherry tree the same, using the vase-method for instance? Best regards, Johannez (Sweden)
I’ve pruned/ trained cherry trees to an open vase structure, works well. Vigorous, you definitely want to discourage them from going straight up. Heading cuts, to outward facing buds or small shoots, leads them in the right direction..
Nic 👍
Olá jsacadura obrigado por mais uma aula sensacional . Queria saber a média de quantas macieiras uma pessoa pode plantar para que ela mesma possa cuidar : podar , adubar e controlar doenças fúngicas . Obrigada mais uma vez e para bens pelo seu trabalho até logo.
Olá, Ludimila. Penso que qualquer pessoa pode plantar uma dezena de macieiras e cuidar delas sem grande esforço. Eu não tenho maquinaria (trator) e trato de todas as minhas árvores sem ajuda, e a tempo parcial, e só macieiras e pereiras são mais de 100, fora as outras fruteiras. Mantendo as árvores baixas, controla-se tudo mais facilmente (podar, adubar e controlar doenças) e o trabalho fica facilitado.
Thank you JSacadura, we really like your educational videos. We'd like to share the videos for supporting the channel but we need to contribute with the subtitles in our community language. We are ready to do it if you allow it as an option.
What is the black tubing hanging in the trees? Is it a water line? If so, why isn’t it on the ground?
Hi, I cut down on my one year old apple seedling/tree because I originally allowed it to grow too tall and spindly before starting training the tree. I now find the new branches it's trying to push out are dying back. Is this normal? I have another tree that I started training earlier, which is growing to my liking. I am growing them in the tropical Caribbean where we have no winter or dormancy period.
I had some Asian pear. Before I prune them. I'd like to ask you which way is the best ?
1. Modified leader
2. Open center
3. Central leader.
You can use any system with similar results. Nevertheless, some studies show that the Central leader has a slight edge in productivity and ease of management. Its the one I use for my trees.
Hi can you plz tell me how big is the space between de trees
thankyou bro
Can u please mention the brand name of tool that u are using for pruning
How would you prune where you have a deer problem? Several of my apple trees are in an area that we have had to protect the trees to allow them to become tall enough that the deer can’t reach the productive area of the tree. If not, they will strip all of the leaves and new shoots and we don’t get fruit.
In my neck of the woods, deer are thick.. I’ll cage a tree the first 4 or 5 years, placing 3 or 4 steel posts a distance from their trunks then wrapping them in tight mesh fencing. I’ll tie and slightly bend future scaffold limbs to the posts for an open center, eventually removing the protection when the limbs are above easy reach of deer. Bucks often grind the trunks with antlers, so I’ll loosely wrap trunks with some left-over fencing..
Формовка дерева типа "Фужер"?
Hello I'm from India himachal pardesh
Can a tree grow from the braches,if so how?😢
11:24 why make that cut? that is a HUGE cut.
why is it that some pear trees don't bear fruit ?
To young, not enough cross pollination, to much nitrogen ( promotes leaf and branch growth) could be the reasons.
Hi, Vrinda. I believe Moral Sin as already covered the main reasons for lack of fruit on Pear Trees. With Pear trees you have to be patient. If they are grafted on vigorous rootstocks (seedlings) they might take quite a few years to start fruit production (5-7 years is not uncommon). And, although some are self-fruitful (they can produce fruits on their own) having other Pear varieties, that bloom at the same time, will help a lot with fruit set.
@@JSacadura thank you
How did these trees ever survive in nature....who pruned those? It's like you have to baby a tree or it won't survive on its on
Hi, Ronald. These are not "normal" trees. These are specialized rootstocks developed and selected for being able to induce early production (at the 2-3 year of growth there is a potential for a good crop of fruits) and the fruits they produce are of medium or large size depending on the variety grafted. Combine that with fruit varieties that where selected for being very productive and you will clearly see why you can't leave these trees unattended. They will grow unbalanced, will bear too many fruits, and might not survive, exhausting all their reserves in a very early age. A normal seedling will only bear fruits after 6-7 years and the tree will be fully grown by then. The tree will have a normal height ( a seedling pear tree will reach 4 meters or more) and the fruit size and number of fruits will be relatively small compared with the selected varieties. So we are talking about very different trees needs. The wild tree can perfectly survive well without pruning. The modern variety can't.
@@JSacadura thanks
@@ronaldjones9429 Hey Ronald, I might add that native trees tend to grow straight up, competing with the forest. Reaching sun and filling out, they’ll generally set fruit, or seed if damaged or at full height. When we prune, we trigger a damage response. Upsetting their hormone balance, and assuming the end is near, they set fruit … while we continue to feed and defend them from nature..
im not a fan of clip and pray method. these trees tend to break, not look attractive, lean over, and die at an earlier age. i prefer modified central leader or modified open center shape.
С такой сильной обрезкой, да будешь постоянно бороться с волчками