Do you have on your website a reference chart for setting all the set point for most popular cubic inch motor & transmission setting? That would be very helpful for everyone as a starting point 👍
1200PA on my dads blown 355 sbc (single carb magnuson mp122) starts fine (cold start) but hunts for idle for a minute then settles down nicely. What should I be looking at to reduce or stop the hunting?
i have a c10 with a 350 that starts and idles (higher than the set idle ) but when it gets warm and i shut the motor off and try to start , it cranks slow like its flooded. also when i hit the gas pedal it will shut the motor off unless i let off the pedal, any ideas where to start ?
I would love to see a video on properly syncing the distributor timing with the handheld and phasing the rotor. I believe I did it correctly, but I can understand it better if seeing it step by step, rather than reading it and second guessing myself
Bring it to TDC, make sure your distributor is pointed to your #1, then do a factory reset on the handheld. One that’s done put in your initial setup info. Thats what did it for me. Also, make sure you have a fully charged battery because even if it’s just a little weak it won’t fire. Then in addition, make sure that tach wire (blue if you’re using go spark) is connected to your brown tach wire in the EFI harness. Points go spark wire (white) goes to the yellow EFI wire, and the Red wire on go spark just goes to any switched power source that is hot while cranking and running. This knowledge was recently obtained first hand.
If you are getting backfired through the intake on cranking the coil pack harness are either crossed or on upside down. Cylinder 1 and 8 should have a purple wire in the loop going to the coil. If you see a red wire the coil sub harness is flipped upside-down.
Had my mean street 800hp running solid for 4 years. Still on the old handheld cpu. Just recently noticed the coolant temp stays stuck at 158 after changing sensor 2 times. Would updating to new handheld help?
Yes. If you update to the new handheld it has the option to calibrate the coolant temp sensor. Please calls sales 951-340-2624 ext. 1 to order or you can order it on our website.
@@5_lug most of our systems are compatible with E85 however, you will want to speak with one of our sales reps for details on which systems. Is this regarding a specific system?
I still don't think Daniel understands my problem. The unit was behaving pretty good till I ran low on gas. The engine acted like it was running out of fuel. After this incident the car won't start while cold. A shot of starting fluid and the car will start but I have to hold the throttle open at about 1500 to 2000 RPM to keep it running. After about 3 to 5 minutes the car will idle fine. THIS ALL STARTED AFTER I RAN LOW ON FUEL (don't know if this a coincidence or not) AGAIN THE CAR RAN PRETTY GOOD FOR THE LAST YEAR TILL the low fuel incident. The filter is clear and the car runs okay at high speed. Please help
Running the system low on gas is effectively making the system run lean because you are loosing fuel pressure. If this continues to happen the ECU learns to compensate this lean (low fuel pressure) issue by adding more fuel. Once fuel is added again to the tank fuel pressure stabilizes and now the computer has to learn to remove what it just did.
@@FiTechEFImedia I got the car started again after using starting fluid. I have to pump the throttle to keep it running, also when able to finally hold the throttle steady the RPM jumps from 1500 to 2000 without moving the throttle. The engine stumbles on acceleration Eventually the car will idle after it warms up. I've taken several pictures of what the controller shows if you need to see them.
I have an f i Tech fuel injected 30005. for the prime shot my injectors turn on whenever they want making my car difficult to start. most of the time I have to reset the ECU and start over I installed a fuel gauge to tell me when the fuel pressure is there so that I could see when the prime shot was taken over you could see the fluctuation in the fuel pressure. then I know when my car's going to start .but it might take 15 times of turning it over to get this to happen. I'm afraid to take my car anywhere because I never know when it's going to start or it's not going to start. Please help me
Personally I think your Crank Fuel Multiplier has a design flaw. It adds fuel at all temperatures including when the motors hot and doesnt require extra fuel. Ive seen that this has led so many people to get a good cold start but a poor hot start ... they think it's not getting enough fuel when its getting too much and adjust it to add more in cranking compounding the problem further. A tweek in any future software upgrades that allows the user to shut of the crank fuel multiplier facility at their chosen temp would be a good idea I think. Meanwhile I'm advising people to reduce it as much as possible, (even disabling it at -100 if they can in winter) and compensating by enrichening the cranking fuels. My Multiplier is as low as I can get it at -50 and I raised the cranking fuels. Our winters are mild but starts first flick of the key with a stone cold and bone try intake and with no throttle. Other than that I've had 5000 trouble free miles.
@@FiTechEFImedia Thanks. If your guys don't do this because I've not thought about a specific issue could you reply letting me know what that issue is please. I'd be interested and not too old to learn from people more experienced thanks.
@@Rush-gz9sx I'm actually still trying to work on my initial crank. I have it @ zero and it's cracking for about 4 seconds before it turns. What motor and specs do you have a far as the motor?
@@frankie4speed818 My specs arent necessarily going to work for you and could even set you back further. It really takes about a week to 10 days of going out every morning and trying to fire it up without using the throttle at all and with the crank fuel multiplier disabled. Then just adding increments of 20 to the crank fuel at 65F until it's either firing or close. You can try it a couple of times each morning but it's the first crank that really counts. If it fires second time you're getting in the ballpark. I got it so it fired up stone cold and bone dry without pedal almost instant then backed it off 10 the next morning until it wouldnt start again. Then nudged it forward with a bit more fuel so it was where it was happiest. But like I said I had to use a small shot of multiplier it just didnt want to know without it .... but loads of guys have it totally disabled and I wish I could but I'm happy enough as it is. When it's real hot and I've only just switched off and need to start again I just push the pedal down as I key on which disables Primeshot just for that one start attempt. You gotta learn to live with it a little .... it's an entry level batch fire EFI system for a grand so it's not going to be perfect .... but itll better than a carb to live with when it's on the money.
@@Rush-gz9sx I tried adjusting it some more today. I've noticed on the second, third, and forth turn over, my idle likes to jump up to about 1500 to 2k then slowly comes back down. Also when I put in gear my idle drops to about 600, which I would really like to see the 800 where I set it to. Guess I'll have to continue to drive it so it can learn.
Hot starts is nearly impossible. Adjust settings on multipler and the 170 degree . Up and down . Outside temps is 90 plus . Please demo on hot 🔥 starts .
Hello I really the videos. Also like my FiTech 30002 600 throttle body fuel injection it has really woken up my engine. But I am also having a few problems. I have 1969 SS chevelle 396 bored and stroked mild build with a little more then 400 HP. It starts up fine but almost dies before it levels out. It pulls pretty good but engine pops between shifts at times. Very hard on fuel. A friend has been helping me out with it he also has Fiteck fuel injection but totally different car. I not a very handy with this stuff and would like some help without offending my friend. Mark
Our biggest recommendation is to record a datalog and share it with us. We can see exactly what is causing both issues. We have a video on how to record a datalog. You can email our tech team at techmail@fitechefi.com.
If I try to crank it and the engine backfires instantly what does that mean. It will also blow smoke from the intake and dosent want to star. Then finally after 3 times of cranking it will start
I had the same issue. Hooked up a noide tester to my injectors and was getting a faint light on the tester. Checked my grounds and added New ground directly from back of head to battery and havent had issues since. I almost shit my oants when mine backfired and started smoking like crazy LOL
@@FiTechEFImedia thanks for the info, another issue I've been having is the initial cold start up likes to crank for about 5 to 7 seconds before it turns over. Any adjustment videos for that?
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Do you have on your website a reference chart for setting all the set point for most popular cubic inch motor & transmission setting? That would be very helpful for everyone as a starting point 👍
1200PA on my dads blown 355 sbc (single carb magnuson mp122) starts fine (cold start) but hunts for idle for a minute then settles down nicely. What should I be looking at to reduce or stop the hunting?
i have a c10 with a 350 that starts and idles (higher than the set idle ) but when it gets warm and i shut the motor off and try to start , it cranks slow like its flooded. also when i hit the gas pedal it will shut the motor off unless i let off the pedal, any ideas where to start ?
How do I lower start up idle ? it starts and jumps up to 1500 rpm I'm trying to get around 900 on start up. I have idle set to 720
I would love to see a video on properly syncing the distributor timing with the handheld and phasing the rotor.
I believe I did it correctly, but I can understand it better if seeing it step by step, rather than reading it and second guessing myself
Check out our other videos! We have done two videos on timing control.
Bring it to TDC, make sure your distributor is pointed to your #1, then do a factory reset on the handheld. One that’s done put in your initial setup info. Thats what did it for me. Also, make sure you have a fully charged battery because even if it’s just a little weak it won’t fire. Then in addition, make sure that tach wire (blue if you’re using go spark) is connected to your brown tach wire in the EFI harness. Points go spark wire (white) goes to the yellow EFI wire, and the Red wire on go spark just goes to any switched power source that is hot while cranking and running.
This knowledge was recently obtained first hand.
what if you are cranking and it backfires? LSX setup, gen 4 6.0L
If you are getting backfired through the intake on cranking the coil pack harness are either crossed or on upside down. Cylinder 1 and 8 should have a purple wire in the loop going to the coil. If you see a red wire the coil sub harness is flipped upside-down.
Had my mean street 800hp running solid for 4 years. Still on the old handheld cpu. Just recently noticed the coolant temp stays stuck at 158 after changing sensor 2 times. Would updating to new handheld help?
Yes. If you update to the new handheld it has the option to calibrate the coolant temp sensor. Please calls sales 951-340-2624 ext. 1 to order or you can order it on our website.
I know it's not recommended but would you guys ever do any information on running e85? I know a lot of people do it with Fitech, myself included.
Absolutely, we will be getting to more advanced tuning over time. Thanks for the suggestion!
@@FiTechEFImedia fitech is fully compatible with e85?
@@5_lug most of our systems are compatible with E85 however, you will want to speak with one of our sales reps for details on which systems. Is this regarding a specific system?
@@FiTechEFImedia yes i have a fitech 31001
@@5_lug Yes that system is compatible with E85.
I still don't think Daniel understands my problem. The unit was behaving pretty good till I ran low on gas. The engine acted like it was running out of fuel. After this incident the car won't start while cold. A shot of starting fluid and the car will start but I have to hold the throttle open at about 1500 to 2000 RPM to keep it running. After about 3 to 5 minutes the car will idle fine. THIS ALL STARTED AFTER I RAN LOW ON FUEL (don't know if this a coincidence or not) AGAIN THE CAR RAN PRETTY GOOD FOR THE LAST YEAR TILL the low fuel incident. The filter is clear and the car runs okay at high speed. Please help
Running the system low on gas is effectively making the system run lean because you are loosing fuel pressure. If this continues to happen the ECU learns to compensate this lean (low fuel pressure) issue by adding more fuel. Once fuel is added again to the tank fuel pressure stabilizes and now the computer has to learn to remove what it just did.
@@FiTechEFImedia I got the car started again after using starting fluid. I have to pump the throttle to keep it running, also when able to finally hold the throttle steady the RPM jumps from 1500 to 2000 without moving the throttle. The engine stumbles on acceleration Eventually the car will idle after it warms up. I've taken several pictures of what the controller shows if you need to see them.
@@BryanRosen-wv8uk Have you checked fuel pressure? Another check is to look for FAULT CODES in the handheld.
@@FiTechEFImedia my code on line 1 is P0000. I don't have a pressure gauge.
I have an f i Tech fuel injected 30005. for the prime shot my injectors turn on whenever they want making my car difficult to start. most of the time I have to reset the ECU and start over I installed a fuel gauge to tell me when the fuel pressure is there so that I could see when the prime shot was taken over you could see the fluctuation in the fuel pressure. then I know when my car's going to start .but it might take 15 times of turning it over to get this to happen. I'm afraid to take my car anywhere because I never know when it's going to start or it's not going to start. Please help me
Personally I think your Crank Fuel Multiplier has a design flaw. It adds fuel at all temperatures including when the motors hot and doesnt require extra fuel. Ive seen that this has led so many people to get a good cold start but a poor hot start ... they think it's not getting enough fuel when its getting too much and adjust it to add more in cranking compounding the problem further.
A tweek in any future software upgrades that allows the user to shut of the crank fuel multiplier facility at their chosen temp would be a good idea I think.
Meanwhile I'm advising people to reduce it as much as possible, (even disabling it at -100 if they can in winter) and compensating by enrichening the cranking fuels.
My Multiplier is as low as I can get it at -50 and I raised the cranking fuels. Our winters are mild but starts first flick of the key with a stone cold and bone try intake and with no throttle.
Other than that I've had 5000 trouble free miles.
I'll forward this information to the right people!
@@FiTechEFImedia Thanks. If your guys don't do this because I've not thought about a specific issue could you reply letting me know what that issue is please. I'd be interested and not too old to learn from people more experienced thanks.
@@Rush-gz9sx I'm actually still trying to work on my initial crank. I have it @ zero and it's cracking for about 4 seconds before it turns. What motor and specs do you have a far as the motor?
@@frankie4speed818
My specs arent necessarily going to work for you and could even set you back further.
It really takes about a week to 10 days of going out every morning and trying to fire it up without using the throttle at all and with the crank fuel multiplier disabled.
Then just adding increments of 20 to the crank fuel at 65F until it's either firing or close. You can try it a couple of times each morning but it's the first crank that really counts. If it fires second time you're getting in the ballpark.
I got it so it fired up stone cold and bone dry without pedal almost instant then backed it off 10 the next morning until it wouldnt start again. Then nudged it forward with a bit more fuel so it was where it was happiest.
But like I said I had to use a small shot of multiplier it just didnt want to know without it .... but loads of guys have it totally disabled and I wish I could but I'm happy enough as it is.
When it's real hot and I've only just switched off and need to start again I just push the pedal down as I key on which disables Primeshot just for that one start attempt.
You gotta learn to live with it a little .... it's an entry level batch fire EFI system for a grand so it's not going to be perfect .... but itll better than a carb to live with when it's on the money.
@@Rush-gz9sx I tried adjusting it some more today. I've noticed on the second, third, and forth turn over, my idle likes to jump up to about 1500 to 2k then slowly comes back down. Also when I put in gear my idle drops to about 600, which I would really like to see the 800 where I set it to. Guess I'll have to continue to drive it so it can learn.
Hot starts is nearly impossible. Adjust settings on multipler and the 170 degree . Up and down . Outside temps is 90 plus . Please demo on hot 🔥 starts .
Hello
I really the videos. Also like my FiTech 30002 600 throttle body fuel injection it has really woken up my engine. But I am also having a few problems. I have 1969 SS chevelle 396 bored and stroked mild build with a little more then 400 HP. It starts up fine but almost dies before it levels out. It pulls pretty good but engine pops between shifts at times. Very hard on fuel. A friend has been helping me out with it he also has Fiteck fuel injection but totally different car. I not a very handy with this stuff and would like some help without offending my friend. Mark
Our biggest recommendation is to record a datalog and share it with us. We can see exactly what is causing both issues. We have a video on how to record a datalog. You can email our tech team at techmail@fitechefi.com.
If I try to crank it and the engine backfires instantly what does that mean. It will also blow smoke from the intake and dosent want to star. Then finally after 3 times of cranking it will start
I had the same issue. Hooked up a noide tester to my injectors and was getting a faint light on the tester. Checked my grounds and added New ground directly from back of head to battery and havent had issues since. I almost shit my oants when mine backfired and started smoking like crazy LOL
@@rampena9426 lol me to. Thx I will try that
Backfire is almost always timing
I'm still having issues, hopefully this solves some of my issues. My butterflies also like to get stuck closed, which is bad in traffic
Hi, it seems that you need a throttle adjustment. This video will help: ruclips.net/video/ImnblxUYHRY/видео.html
@@FiTechEFImedia thanks for the info, another issue I've been having is the initial cold start up likes to crank for about 5 to 7 seconds before it turns over. Any adjustment videos for that?
@@frankie4speed818 More Prime Fuel and More cranking fuel most likely.