You made it look so clear on replacing those panels. --- I have been thinking like a couple of your viewers below to make the apron removeable for the sake of an easy engine removal. Thanks for sharing ------ Rodney
Glad I found your channel. Doing apron-removal work right now, myself. I'm going to make my 68's apron removable for future engine r&r. Looking forward to future content. 👍
Thanks for this video! I just picked up a '65 project that has this work about half done and I had no idea how to go about finishing (and correcting) their work. I'm a subscriber now.
Leaving the rear apron removable is a huge advantage for R &R of engine. Since the bolts go through and into the body everything is held tightly. I do it on all the beetles I restore.
A fantastic how to!! Question...I have a 1967 Beatle. Mid-Atlantic, J-Bugs, etc. don't seem to carry the rear apron. What should I be doing for this panel. 67 seems to be a unique car?? Your thoughts please! Thanks!!
Boa noite meu amigo tudo Bem eu sou do Brasil Ótimo Trabalho Alinhamento Perfeito Eu tenho um 1961 Preciso de trocar também foi Ótimo ver o seu Trabalho
Great video mate thanks for posting. One question - instead of using those fasteners where you have to drill a hole to hold the apron in place - can you instead, just put the last few bolts in that hold the fender on? Don't they go through from the outside where the bumper hanger is, and through the apron? Thanks again for posting - you're very clear and helpful.
Technically yes you could with a large washer, but the bolt holes do not go through the apron. The bolt holes are in the rear quarter and the apron skin kind of skirts around them. I like to use the fasteners when I have a lot of fitting and mock up to do, and the apron is coming on and off multiple times.
Would CHICAGO ELECTRIC 240V Spot Welder - Item 61206 / 45690 This portable, air-cooled spot welder makes quick, strong spot welds in a wide range of materials including steel and cast iron. Welds uncoated mild, galvanized or stainless sheet steel to . The spot welder has 6 in. tongs lock firmly onto materials. Work on this?
Thanks for showing how to do this. Have been scratching my head how to get it all aligned.
inspiring setup bro! great stuff. you could have sold me a welder!
You made it look so clear on replacing those panels. --- I have been thinking like a couple of your viewers below to make the apron removeable for the sake of an easy engine removal. Thanks for sharing ------ Rodney
Glad I found your channel. Doing apron-removal work right now, myself. I'm going to make my 68's apron removable for future engine r&r. Looking forward to future content. 👍
Thanks for this video! I just picked up a '65 project that has this work about half done and I had no idea how to go about finishing (and correcting) their work. I'm a subscriber now.
Oh yeah. I want to see this series. Right before you take my bus oif the hiill and start on it.
Love the temp fastener idea to allow dropping the clamps while keeping perfect realignment during repositioning. Great instruction; Thanks!
Superb Job man,i may need to just replace my rear apron on my 65 vw...thanks a lot for the info and know how,keep up the good work ... Jose'
Leaving the rear apron removable is a huge advantage for R &R of engine. Since the bolts go through and into the body everything is held tightly. I do it on all the beetles I restore.
I have considered this myself
Do you use nutzerts or?
GOOD JOB ! Thanks for the education , also nice camera work !
nice video, i'll definitely stick around for the next ones!
New sub,I just got a 74 base beetle. Not as Kool as a 60s but I'll make it mine was thinking about those style taillights
Excellent instructions
A fantastic how to!! Question...I have a 1967 Beatle. Mid-Atlantic, J-Bugs, etc. don't seem to carry the rear apron. What should I be doing for this panel. 67 seems to be a unique car?? Your thoughts please! Thanks!!
You do great work
Who’s rear apron did you purchase. See varying prices. Yours looks good quality. Who is manufacturer?
Thin sheet metal screws work well, faster at first slightly bigger hole to weld tho
Would you like to come to San Diego and take care of the metal work on my 1956 bug?
Boa noite meu amigo tudo Bem eu sou do Brasil Ótimo Trabalho Alinhamento Perfeito Eu tenho um 1961 Preciso de trocar também foi Ótimo ver o seu Trabalho
Can I ask what you would pay for a complete 1970 thats been sitting for a long time. Definitely saw some body rot in the front. No title, just bos
Nise job I like it
Nice work! I subscribed!
Great video mate thanks for posting. One question - instead of using those fasteners where you have to drill a hole to hold the apron in place - can you instead, just put the last few bolts in that hold the fender on? Don't they go through from the outside where the bumper hanger is, and through the apron? Thanks again for posting - you're very clear and helpful.
Technically yes you could with a large washer, but the bolt holes do not go through the apron. The bolt holes are in the rear quarter and the apron skin kind of skirts around them. I like to use the fasteners when I have a lot of fitting and mock up to do, and the apron is coming on and off multiple times.
did you over lap the metal or did you butt weld it
Can I put a 1966 rear apron and deck lid on my 1976. I like the longer deck lid. Will this work
Yes very easy to back date a later car with earlier components
What city and state are you from?
Would CHICAGO ELECTRIC 240V Spot Welder - Item 61206 / 45690 This portable, air-cooled spot welder makes quick, strong spot welds in a wide range of materials including steel and cast iron. Welds uncoated mild, galvanized or stainless sheet steel to . The spot welder has 6 in. tongs lock firmly onto materials. Work on this?
talk less....like i said before...basicly...
What city and state are you from?