Моим зрителям, живущим в России, Я пишу вам здесь, потому что я видел, что на моем канале много зрителей из вашей страны. Поскольку вы используете youtube для просмотра моих видео, пожалуйста, используйте его также для просмотра новостей о конфликте с соседней страной. Используйте этот шанс посмотреть на ситуацию с разных точек зрения. Если вы критически относитесь к западным СМИ, я могу вас понять. Может быть, не все на 100% правда, может быть, не все упомянуто. Но становится все более очевидным, что новости, которые показывают в вашей собственной стране, очень далеки от реальности. Просто посмотрите и составьте свою собственную картину происходящего. Спасибо за внимание!
Да, спасибо Вам! Умные смотрят, остальные пьют водку и молятся на икону с пенсионером Путиным (хотя сами вряд ли доживут до пенсии в 65 лет). В аптеке глазные капли - из Германии!!! Спрашивается, и кто же победил в той войне? Явно не россия ))
@@Narezki122 -- Many thousands are dying, many thousands more are being maimed for life, both physically and emotionally, wealth and achievement destroyed, lives ruined by a war unleashed by a personality cult.
Nice video. Here's a tip: start all three (or however many) cuts at once and run them parallel to each other. This way you get your boards with many few turnings of the log in the vice, and you don't have to worry about clamping awkward shaped log sections. Old time trestle and pit sawyers ran their cuts in parallel, not breaking the boards apart until the very end.
@@jimdoe1694This is the perfect rip saw, as you can tell by the rake angle and teeth count, man knows his tools! A crosscut saw would take twice the time. I have tried both, rip saw wins, even when the rip saw I used is a home made one, not perfect, but wins the race.😊
@@ErickvdK Who said anything about a crosscut? Thank you for illustrating your ignorance of tools. A frame saw with a rip blade having an opening on each side and a proper vice, similar to what one would use to cut veneer. Roubo Frame Saw can be seen on Plate 278
@@ErickvdK He did a good job with what he had, just a better tool for that application, being repetitive rip cuts with a desired thickness. More control over the front and balance on both ends keeps the blade more uniform and straight.
Dear Little Forest, Thank you for such a wonderfully open and conversational response to my post...I have addressed each of your germane comments in more detail below. Let me know if I can explain further... Little Forest wrote: "...In short, it is better to cut a log more or less straight after harvesting..." Yes...Always if possible... If it is not possible to process (aka mill) the wood as soon as the bolt/cant is acquired…???... I would try to keep the wood from drying out as much as possible by oiling and waxing the ends…Better yet...store the wood underwater to rest it properly before milling...This can be done in a stream, pond, or even a tank of water for smaller pieces… The simple fact of this topic generally is…NEVER…wait to process the wood. It should be broken down into “rough lumber” sizes according to future project needs…or…what the given bolt can effectively yield for a future project… Little Forest wrote: "...My goal was to share something i have learned while living in an apartment, where both space and available wood are limited..." I have had many students around the globe in very similar conditions to your own…That certainly can be challenging… I still strongly recommend the same action steps be taken…as it will yield the best lumber and be the least wistful of the given section of tree… Wood that is “dried” in cant or bolt form has a much higher waist margin than when milled when fresh… If the bolt or cant section is kept (for whatever reason) and dried in the acquired size…then “spine splitting” and wedging (背割り - "sewari," 埋木細工 - "Umeki-zaiku") the section of wood is paramount to control and localize checking and distortion in the wood, which allows better yield when it is milled in the future… Little Forest wrote: "... The main difference is in this case the size of the log. Cutting a dried log makes only sense if it is a small one..." Honestly…size matter little… The section should be processed as soon as acquired…or…as mentioned above the wood spine split and wedged so there is better yield in the future…That is not to say you can’t do what you demonstrated in the video, of which you did a great job!!! Little Forest wrote: "... In my case, i have used bigger branches only…” The challenge with…” branch wood”...is that you cant see (or understand unless really experienced!!!) the…” reaction wood”...that is very often found in such bolt sections from a tree… As a former working Aborist, and still involved in such work, I love “limb or brand wood” for projects. Nevertheless, I typically have harvested the wood myself…I mill it as soon as I get it…and I understand how to use “reaction wood” to my benefit in projects. Most modern wood machinists (which to me is very different than traditional woodworkers) reject ever using limb/branch wood because of the damage it can cause in future projects due to massive distortion in wrapping, bending, twisting, cupping, etc… For a traditional woodworker, these characteristics are not necessarily a concern and/or can be used to the given needs and load parameters of a project… Little Forest wrote: "... I chose this material for my first screws, simply cause i did not have wood 70 mm thick available, no shop is selling hardwood this thick (here)...” That was brilliant and a wonderful use for such wood…and clearly you were very successful at it… Little Forest wrote: "... So i took some straight branches and dried them in the slowest possible way to avoid checks: With bark and with plastic on both ends (which i turned every day to avoid mold and mushrooms)...” Your attention to them was important and why you managed such success I would imagine. Note, however, that branch wood (depending on where it grew in the tree) will often have massive reaction wood due to the differential in loading of the limb placing much of it in massive compression and tension forces…This may take years to reveal itself once in a project and/or react only when the humidity levels change significantly… Little Forest wrote: "... It has been a trial and i was surprised to get a so good result from it with Mountain Ash, Maple and Hackberry…” These are wonderful species, as many traditional species are now neglected and/or considered (by modern wood machinists) unusable… Little Forest wrote: "... By the way, thanks, now i have learned the difference between checks and cracks. In my home country, there is only one word for both…” Do please let me know if I can explain or expand on any of the above information. You have a lot of talent and a wonderful channel. It is important that these traditions be learned and passed on to future generations of our craft!!! Little Forest wrote: "... While writing this words i understood, that i did not manage to use good words for the text under my video…” Your “words” are more than adequate and commendable since English is not your first language. I have no problem understanding your meaning and have no issue helping define things for you in more detail or from the traditional context in either English or the many of the other languages I understand as it pertains to woodworking or related traditional folk arts/crafts… Little Forest wrote: "...Your ‘validation’ sounds really interesting. It seems, that it would be nice to have you as a neighbour…” LOL…That would be fun!!! Now that I’m retired, I travel all over the place for projects that interest me. So if you find an interesting project I could possibly actually become a neighbor. You never know…LOL!!! At a minimum, feel free to reach out any time with questions as I have very much followed your channel and progress since you started… I met Josh (aka Mr. Chickadee of RUclips) online when he reached out to learn more about traditional woodworking…particularly the Middle Eastern and Asian forms of it. We met almost ten years ago while he was finishing (and having challenges with) his first timber frame house. Since then he has video documented all the structures he has built that I have offered guidance on… You have no limits except those you impose upon yourself. Help is always available to those who ask… Blessings, j
excellent video. especially liked that you started with a piece of wood with some curve in it. that to me is the hardest part going from tree -> lumber w hand tools is there is no one uniform reference to measure from. this video gives good tips on how to overcome that initial hurdle.
Valuable lesson learnt in this, as I contemplate a new small boat building project with the desire to harvest some small crooks and wyes out of a great heap of leftover felled live-oak and persimmon offcut rubbish. I need to make several important, though small, framing parts. Thanks!
As usual, I love your style of video, It reminds me a lot of Mr. chickadee's videos... I have some observations to share (validation: I have 40 plus years as a Timberwright, teacher of traditional vernacular folk and indigenous life skills, Sawyer, Arborist, Wilderness Guide, et al)... Little Forest wrote: "... Is it better to dry the wood before cutting or afterward?..." There really are no "pros or cons" on this topic... Dry wood can be cut...yet it is the exception to the standard practice of a sawyer (regardless of wood species or size of bolt), and not a desirable thing to do at all!!!... The bark should always be removed before milling a section of wood...if at all possible...though many today skip this stage because of the use of power tools... I'm uncertain of my understanding of some of these other points, so please correct me if I have misunderstood...!!!??? Little Forest wrote: ""...Drying before cutting:..." NO...!!!...you should never dry before cutting if at all possible...There are very few exceptions to this traditional rule (e.g. temple bolt sections that is over 500 to 1000 years old and dried for over 50 to 100 years in only the Cypress family of trees...) Simply put, logs, cants, bolts, fletches, etc....are never dried before milling, riving, or "working down." The standard "good practice" in most traditions found around the world is to "rest the wood" before working it down. If the wood can be rested underwater (a very common practice even today for high-quality wood) this is even better... NEVER...!!!...leave the bark on longs that are not either "water rested" or traditionally treated...This will only lead to chronic Coleopteric infestation and loss percentage within the final product unless "worming wood" is desired..."Wormwood" is only found in the quality of some species and a specialty product... Plank, board, and cants that are milled should only be air-dried (if not working the wood green...a lost art for most these days) waxed/oiled first and dried slowly in a shady or cool location. Winter drying of wood stock is best if the goal is quality dried materials... Little Forest wrote: "...The piece i have might take 5 years..." If you meant the bolt section unmilled...that is fairly accurate. If speaking of it fletch/milled that is not accurate at all...nor is even drying it necessary for most traditional projects... Little Forest wrote: "...But in return, you get it without cracks and the cutter boards will not bend..." There are no "cracks" in drying wood...there are "checks" which are completely different than "cracked wood." Cracks in wood, like "wind shears" are a structural compromise of the timber and should either be discarded, cut around, or repaired if necessary... "Checks" (干割れ-"Hiware") in timbers, planks, or boards are often found in some species of wood. They are only cosmetic, do not affect structural integrity, and can (in most cases) be repaired...In many traditional styles the tendency for a plank or timber to "check" is designed with and/or made to have such as with the "spine splitting" modalities of Asia. (e.g. 背割り - "sewari," 埋木細工 - "Umeki-zaiku"...etc.) Little Forest wrote: "...Just wax the ends or cover them with plastic during the first few months..." Natural waxes and oils...YES!!! Plastics...NO...!!!...as this promotes blue stain, and related fungal activity as well as promotes the potential for insect infestation... Little Forest wrote: "...If you cut them wet it is easier to cut, you do not have the problems with cracking and drying goes much faster..." Accurate to some degree but must be mitigated by species and regions of the world...It is very different in some cases as well as the season the tree was harvested; if there is "reaction wood", climate, etc... Little Forest wrote: "... Dry roundwood without cracks is something what most woodworkers estimate as impossible..." By today's standard of the common "wood machinist" yes this is very true...By traditional standards of means and modalities...this is not accurate nor necessary to worry about... I can expand on any point if you wish... Looking forward to your next video...!!!
Hello Jay :-) Thank you for your comment! Nice to read something so detailed, well thought and helpful. This is how i like to use RUclips; as i way to share, learn, inspire and exchange. All in all, i would agree with what you have been writing. In short, it is better to cut a log more or less straight after harvesting. My goal was to share something i have learned while living in an apartment, where both space and available wood are limited. The main difference is in this case the size of the log. Cutting a dried log makes only sense, if it is a small one. In my case i have used bigger branches only. I chose this material for my first screws, simply cause i did not have wood 70 mm thick available, no shop is selling hardwood this thick (here). So i took some straight branches and dried them in the slowest possible way to avoid checks: With bark and with plastic on both ends (which i turned every day to avoid mold and mushrooms). It has been a trial and i was surprised to get a so good result from it with Mountain Ash, Maple and Hackberry. By the way, thanks, now i have learned the difference between checks and cracks. In my home country there is only one word for both… This experience has been useful to me when using very special wood. The Hungarian Lilac in this video, i found it when it was already cut down. I preferred to keep it in one piece until i know what i will do out of it, and which dimensions are needed. I used the same technique as for my screws to avoid checks. While writing this words i understood, that i did not manage to use good words for the text under my video. They seem to be more confusing than helpful… So thank again for your comment! Your ‘validation’ sounds really interesting. It seems, that it would be nice to have you as a neighbour. Even if not really expected, i more and more understand, that this internet can be helpful to bring us people more together ;-)
Great video, useful information and a pleasure to watch, thanx! Your saw does not look like an old one found on second hand market.. Can you tell us something about it??
Hei, I like to use second hand tools but specially these kind of saws (Disston) are simply super overpriced. So, this time i took a brand new one: William Greaves made by Thomas Flinn in Sheffield-UK. And by the way, they are really payable!
i felled a white oak tree, quarter it with sledge and wedge, hand cut everything with a tiny japanese ryoba. today i have a magnificent scandinavian cabinet makers bench.
Things i have found about sawing; until 2 or more teethe are engaged in the cutting, the blade will not track smoothly; if there is too much set (or worse, the set is uneven) the saw will go off the line and will need continuous correction
I am now going to take what I've learned here and traslate it to three seperate 500lbs logs with my logging saws. Here's hoping I don't get crushed, but if I do at least something will end up looking like a plank.
one afternoon - a few hours - or in other words, it takes less time than going to a shop to buy this wood or order it in internet - specially when it comes to wood like hungarian lilac (not on sale anywhere) or the apple from own garden for example.
@@waldmensch-hy4ly true. But this is hard core, would have cut for one afternoon more with chainsaw than this way. Just my way, but i respect your way. All good
I would not do this with bigger trunks too - but for this kind of little projects, it was fun. I even wonder, if it would have been faster or even possible with my alaskan chainsawmill. Just, to show, what all is possible with just a handfull of handtools.
Couldn't understand what this video is about? How to saw a stick of firewood into a board. Nobody has the time to hand saw lumber, if you do to have too much money.
Thanx for this interesting comment / point of view :-) I prefer to watch things from a very different perspective: Time - there is - plenty of it. Every morning we wake up, a new day is given to us. If it took me 2 hours to saw, every day would give enough time to cut 12 times this amount of wood. Isn't it amazing!? The point is just, how we (each of us for him/herself) decide to spend this given time. Every of us has the choice, the freedom to choose what to do with these given days. Watching humans around has given me the impression, that most have long forgotten this freedom of choice. I personally do not know many people who spend most possible time on the things they like. Most seem to have developed a strong creativity in finding various types of excuses to justify that they do the opposite most of the day. Others somehow started to think, that they are worth of respect only if they suffer most of the time, or work hard, or be serious or what ever. Over the years, this way of thinking got so strong, that they really started to deeply believe in it - it became their reality. Knowing, that is was their own choice, is somehow 'interesting' maybe scary...
ich glaube ich habs gefunden auf feinewerkzeuge. würdest Du sie empfehlen? Ich suche mir eine Säge für Langsschnitte der breiten Bretter bzw trockene Klötze; min 15 cm breit. Ich habe eine Pax mit 8 TPI für Längsschnitte. Sie ist mir etwas langsam. Ich frage mich ob ich eine gröbere Säge brauche mit 4 - 5 TPI. @@littleforest
Tja, die Antwort kommt spät - habe das wohlö in all den vielen Kommentaren übersehen. Ich mag die Säge. Für trockenes Holz sind 4-5 TPI manchmal etwas ruppig und es geht aufs Ahndgelenk. Allerdings braucht es die grossen Leerräume zwischen den Zähnen um das Sägemehl ab zu transportieren. --> Ja, ich denke, das wäre die richtige Säge für das was Du beschreibst.
@@littleforestlieben Dank für die Antwort. Ich wollte wissen wo ich die Säge finden kann. Die Info mit der Zahnverteilung hatte ich schon gesehen. Ich glaube ich habe die Säge sogar in einem Onlineshop gefunden.
Adding to the video description the creator recommends reading: A rip-cut saw and a drosscit saw can be the same saw, but the teeth are filed at different angles across the plate A crosscut saw (meant for cutting across fibers) has teeth like little knives, where the leading vertical edge cuts the fibers. A rip-cut saw (meant for cutting along the grain as in this video) has teeth like little chisels, with the cutting edge running straight across the thickness of the saw plate, and taking little bites off the ends of fibers. Sometimes you can tell the difference by the bottom of the cut they leave. Cross-cut teeth will leave a double groove, like an upside-down M, while rip-cut teeth leave a flat-ish bottom. You can generally sharpen any older saw to either with a file, though some saws (like the Disston ACME 120) were originally made specifically for ripping. Many modern saws are "hard-point", with impulse-hardened teeth that last longer, but can't be sharpened. You can generally tell because the teeth are a different color, like they've been "welded".
A lot of people watch it as a way to relax, some specifically because they get a kind of scalp tingles from soft noises happening close to their ear (called ASMR). The creator of the video gets more viewers and more ad revenue if they can appeal to that audience too.
Did you see the grain on that tiny log? How would you suggest quarter sawing that without wasting most of the wood and ending up with tiny worthless strips of wood
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Моим зрителям, живущим в России,
Я пишу вам здесь, потому что я видел, что на моем канале много зрителей из вашей страны.
Поскольку вы используете youtube для просмотра моих видео, пожалуйста, используйте его также для просмотра новостей о конфликте с соседней страной. Используйте этот шанс посмотреть на ситуацию с разных точек зрения.
Если вы критически относитесь к западным СМИ, я могу вас понять. Может быть, не все на 100% правда, может быть, не все упомянуто.
Но становится все более очевидным, что новости, которые показывают в вашей собственной стране, очень далеки от реальности. Просто посмотрите и составьте свою собственную картину происходящего.
Спасибо за внимание!
Да, спасибо Вам! Умные смотрят, остальные пьют водку и молятся на икону с пенсионером Путиным (хотя сами вряд ли доживут до пенсии в 65 лет). В аптеке глазные капли - из Германии!!! Спрашивается, и кто же победил в той войне? Явно не россия ))
мне как то поебать на новости и войну эту позорную
@@Narezki122 -- Many thousands are dying, many thousands more are being maimed for life, both physically and emotionally, wealth and achievement destroyed, lives ruined by a war unleashed by a personality cult.
Мне интересно сколько у тебя уходит на один вертикальный распил бревна? Мне кажется легче расколоть на доски
even the screws are made of wood . respect man
what a gem of a channel, I'm so glad I found this
I know a guy who has hundreds of logs he doesn’t know what to do with, so thank you!
Nice video. Here's a tip: start all three (or however many) cuts at once and run them parallel to each other. This way you get your boards with many few turnings of the log in the vice, and you don't have to worry about clamping awkward shaped log sections. Old time trestle and pit sawyers ran their cuts in parallel, not breaking the boards apart until the very end.
Hmm, sounds interesting! I'll keep it in mind for the next log. Thanx!
The proper saw for the application would help too.
@@jimdoe1694This is the perfect rip saw, as you can tell by the rake angle and teeth count, man knows his tools! A crosscut saw would take twice the time. I have tried both, rip saw wins, even when the rip saw I used is a home made one, not perfect, but wins the race.😊
@@ErickvdK Who said anything about a crosscut? Thank you for illustrating your ignorance of tools. A frame saw with a rip blade having an opening on each side and a proper vice, similar to what one would use to cut veneer. Roubo Frame Saw can be seen on Plate 278
@@ErickvdK He did a good job with what he had, just a better tool for that application, being repetitive rip cuts with a desired thickness. More control over the front and balance on both ends keeps the blade more uniform and straight.
Exactly the content I was looking for thank you so much for making this and showing what's possible with hand tools!
Nice to know it has been helpful for someone!
Dear Little Forest,
Thank you for such a wonderfully open and conversational response to my post...I have addressed each of your germane comments in more detail below. Let me know if I can explain further...
Little Forest wrote: "...In short, it is better to cut a log more or less straight after harvesting..."
Yes...Always if possible...
If it is not possible to process (aka mill) the wood as soon as the bolt/cant is acquired…???... I would try to keep the wood from drying out as much as possible by oiling and waxing the ends…Better yet...store the wood underwater to rest it properly before milling...This can be done in a stream, pond, or even a tank of water for smaller pieces…
The simple fact of this topic generally is…NEVER…wait to process the wood. It should be broken down into “rough lumber” sizes according to future project needs…or…what the given bolt can effectively yield for a future project…
Little Forest wrote: "...My goal was to share something i have learned while living in an apartment, where both space and available wood are limited..."
I have had many students around the globe in very similar conditions to your own…That certainly can be challenging…
I still strongly recommend the same action steps be taken…as it will yield the best lumber and be the least wistful of the given section of tree…
Wood that is “dried” in cant or bolt form has a much higher waist margin than when milled when fresh…
If the bolt or cant section is kept (for whatever reason) and dried in the acquired size…then “spine splitting” and wedging (背割り - "sewari," 埋木細工 - "Umeki-zaiku") the section of wood is paramount to control and localize checking and distortion in the wood, which allows better yield when it is milled in the future…
Little Forest wrote: "... The main difference is in this case the size of the log. Cutting a dried log makes only sense if it is a small one..."
Honestly…size matter little…
The section should be processed as soon as acquired…or…as mentioned above the wood spine split and wedged so there is better yield in the future…That is not to say you can’t do what you demonstrated in the video, of which you did a great job!!!
Little Forest wrote: "... In my case, i have used bigger branches only…”
The challenge with…” branch wood”...is that you cant see (or understand unless really experienced!!!) the…” reaction wood”...that is very often found in such bolt sections from a tree…
As a former working Aborist, and still involved in such work, I love “limb or brand wood” for projects. Nevertheless, I typically have harvested the wood myself…I mill it as soon as I get it…and I understand how to use “reaction wood” to my benefit in projects.
Most modern wood machinists (which to me is very different than traditional woodworkers) reject ever using limb/branch wood because of the damage it can cause in future projects due to massive distortion in wrapping, bending, twisting, cupping, etc…
For a traditional woodworker, these characteristics are not necessarily a concern and/or can be used to the given needs and load parameters of a project…
Little Forest wrote: "... I chose this material for my first screws, simply cause i did not have wood 70 mm thick available, no shop is selling hardwood this thick (here)...”
That was brilliant and a wonderful use for such wood…and clearly you were very successful at it…
Little Forest wrote: "... So i took some straight branches and dried them in the slowest possible way to avoid checks: With bark and with plastic on both ends (which i turned every day to avoid mold and mushrooms)...”
Your attention to them was important and why you managed such success I would imagine. Note, however, that branch wood (depending on where it grew in the tree) will often have massive reaction wood due to the differential in loading of the limb placing much of it in massive compression and tension forces…This may take years to reveal itself once in a project and/or react only when the humidity levels change significantly…
Little Forest wrote: "... It has been a trial and i was surprised to get a so good result from it with Mountain Ash, Maple and Hackberry…”
These are wonderful species, as many traditional species are now neglected and/or considered (by modern wood machinists) unusable…
Little Forest wrote: "... By the way, thanks, now i have learned the difference between checks and cracks. In my home country, there is only one word for both…”
Do please let me know if I can explain or expand on any of the above information. You have a lot of talent and a wonderful channel. It is important that these traditions be learned and passed on to future generations of our craft!!!
Little Forest wrote: "... While writing this words i understood, that i did not manage to use good words for the text under my video…”
Your “words” are more than adequate and commendable since English is not your first language. I have no problem understanding your meaning and have no issue helping define things for you in more detail or from the traditional context in either English or the many of the other languages I understand as it pertains to woodworking or related traditional folk arts/crafts…
Little Forest wrote: "...Your ‘validation’ sounds really interesting. It seems, that it would be nice to have you as a neighbour…”
LOL…That would be fun!!!
Now that I’m retired, I travel all over the place for projects that interest me. So if you find an interesting project I could possibly actually become a neighbor. You never know…LOL!!!
At a minimum, feel free to reach out any time with questions as I have very much followed your channel and progress since you started…
I met Josh (aka Mr. Chickadee of RUclips) online when he reached out to learn more about traditional woodworking…particularly the Middle Eastern and Asian forms of it. We met almost ten years ago while he was finishing (and having challenges with) his first timber frame house. Since then he has video documented all the structures he has built that I have offered guidance on…
You have no limits except those you impose upon yourself. Help is always available to those who ask…
Blessings,
j
excellent video. especially liked that you started with a piece of wood with some curve in it. that to me is the hardest part going from tree -> lumber w hand tools is there is no one uniform reference to measure from. this video gives good tips on how to overcome that initial hurdle.
Good to know, that the message reached - thanx for your feedback!
this was excruciatingly awesome
Very nice - I look forward to seeing what you make with the wood!
Planned is a similar box then in my previous video. Let's see, if i'll film it...
Valuable lesson learnt in this, as I contemplate a new small boat building project with the desire to harvest some small crooks and wyes out of a great heap of leftover felled live-oak and persimmon offcut rubbish. I need to make several important, though small, framing parts. Thanks!
Nice to know, that it has been useful :-)
Was the cutting at 1:14 just to remove any burls to get a decent level
Exactly :-)
As usual, I love your style of video, It reminds me a lot of Mr. chickadee's videos...
I have some observations to share (validation: I have 40 plus years as a Timberwright, teacher of traditional vernacular folk and indigenous life skills, Sawyer, Arborist, Wilderness Guide, et al)...
Little Forest wrote: "... Is it better to dry the wood before cutting or afterward?..."
There really are no "pros or cons" on this topic...
Dry wood can be cut...yet it is the exception to the standard practice of a sawyer (regardless of wood species or size of bolt), and not a desirable thing to do at all!!!...
The bark should always be removed before milling a section of wood...if at all possible...though many today skip this stage because of the use of power tools...
I'm uncertain of my understanding of some of these other points, so please correct me if I have misunderstood...!!!???
Little Forest wrote: ""...Drying before cutting:..."
NO...!!!...you should never dry before cutting if at all possible...There are very few exceptions to this traditional rule (e.g. temple bolt sections that is over 500 to 1000 years old and dried for over 50 to 100 years in only the Cypress family of trees...) Simply put, logs, cants, bolts, fletches, etc....are never dried before milling, riving, or "working down." The standard "good practice" in most traditions found around the world is to "rest the wood" before working it down. If the wood can be rested underwater (a very common practice even today for high-quality wood) this is even better...
NEVER...!!!...leave the bark on longs that are not either "water rested" or traditionally treated...This will only lead to chronic Coleopteric infestation and loss percentage within the final product unless "worming wood" is desired..."Wormwood" is only found in the quality of some species and a specialty product...
Plank, board, and cants that are milled should only be air-dried (if not working the wood green...a lost art for most these days) waxed/oiled first and dried slowly in a shady or cool location. Winter drying of wood stock is best if the goal is quality dried materials...
Little Forest wrote: "...The piece i have might take 5 years..."
If you meant the bolt section unmilled...that is fairly accurate. If speaking of it fletch/milled that is not accurate at all...nor is even drying it necessary for most traditional projects...
Little Forest wrote: "...But in return, you get it without cracks and the cutter boards will not bend..."
There are no "cracks" in drying wood...there are "checks" which are completely different than "cracked wood." Cracks in wood, like "wind shears" are a structural compromise of the timber and should either be discarded, cut around, or repaired if necessary...
"Checks" (干割れ-"Hiware") in timbers, planks, or boards are often found in some species of wood. They are only cosmetic, do not affect structural integrity, and can (in most cases) be repaired...In many traditional styles the tendency for a plank or timber to "check" is designed with and/or made to have such as with the "spine splitting" modalities of Asia. (e.g. 背割り - "sewari," 埋木細工 - "Umeki-zaiku"...etc.)
Little Forest wrote: "...Just wax the ends or cover them with plastic during the first few months..."
Natural waxes and oils...YES!!!
Plastics...NO...!!!...as this promotes blue stain, and related fungal activity as well as promotes the potential for insect infestation...
Little Forest wrote: "...If you cut them wet it is easier to cut, you do not have the problems with cracking and drying goes much faster..."
Accurate to some degree but must be mitigated by species and regions of the world...It is very different in some cases as well as the season the tree was harvested; if there is "reaction wood", climate, etc...
Little Forest wrote: "... Dry roundwood without cracks is something what most woodworkers estimate as impossible..."
By today's standard of the common "wood machinist" yes this is very true...By traditional standards of means and modalities...this is not accurate nor necessary to worry about...
I can expand on any point if you wish...
Looking forward to your next video...!!!
Hello Jay :-)
Thank you for your comment! Nice to read something so detailed, well thought and helpful. This is how i like to use RUclips; as i way to share, learn, inspire and exchange.
All in all, i would agree with what you have been writing.
In short, it is better to cut a log more or less straight after harvesting.
My goal was to share something i have learned while living in an apartment, where both space and available wood are limited. The main difference is in this case the size of the log. Cutting a dried log makes only sense, if it is a small one. In my case i have used bigger branches only. I chose this material for my first screws, simply cause i did not have wood 70 mm thick available, no shop is selling hardwood this thick (here). So i took some straight branches and dried them in the slowest possible way to avoid checks: With bark and with plastic on both ends (which i turned every day to avoid mold and mushrooms). It has been a trial and i was surprised to get a so good result from it with Mountain Ash, Maple and Hackberry.
By the way, thanks, now i have learned the difference between checks and cracks. In my home country there is only one word for both…
This experience has been useful to me when using very special wood. The Hungarian Lilac in this video, i found it when it was already cut down. I preferred to keep it in one piece until i know what i will do out of it, and which dimensions are needed. I used the same technique as for my screws to avoid checks.
While writing this words i understood, that i did not manage to use good words for the text under my video. They seem to be more confusing than helpful… So thank again for your comment!
Your ‘validation’ sounds really interesting. It seems, that it would be nice to have you as a neighbour. Even if not really expected, i more and more understand, that this internet can be helpful to bring us people more together ;-)
I updated the video description. Hopefully it makes more sense now...
Just a question here.... Why not use a froe on something this size?
Your rip saw appears to be of recent manufacture. Like the other viewer, i wood also like to know who makes it.
---Thankx Mucho😊
William Greaves made by Thomas Flinn in Sheffield-UK - mine is 660mm with 6 TPI - i like this saw :-)
Tell us apart your particular rip saw; how many tpi, maker, age . Thanks.
Hello Micheal - saw is made by Thomas Flinn - Sheffield, maybe 5 years old, 4,5 TPI, Rip-shape.
When doing this, should I saw the wood when it is already dry or should I cut fresh wood?
Take a look into the video-text :-)
Great video, useful information and a pleasure to watch, thanx!
Your saw does not look like an old one found on second hand market.. Can you tell us something about it??
Hei, I like to use second hand tools but specially these kind of saws (Disston) are simply super overpriced. So, this time i took a brand new one: William Greaves made by Thomas Flinn in Sheffield-UK. And by the way, they are really payable!
No "perkele" when you drop the v-block for the clamp?
Oli lähellä ;-)
What was the shaving tool you used to smooth the cuts?
a simple hand plane. Can use a small one like jack or smoothing plane, or specially for longe boards a jointer plane.
The sound of a sharp saw
It gives ASMR effect
What kind of saw is that? I have a project I’d like to work on where I saved cedar logs.
It's a Greave Williams Rip Cut saw.
Outstanding! I'm going to have to try this. Thank you!
Amazing! And beautiful vises. What size of shop do you have?
Thanx. You can get an idea of the size in the end of the workbench video i made.
i felled a white oak tree, quarter it with sledge and wedge, hand cut everything with a tiny japanese ryoba. today i have a magnificent scandinavian cabinet makers bench.
great video, and nice vise
Things i have found about sawing; until 2 or more teethe are engaged in the cutting, the blade will not track smoothly; if there is too much set (or worse, the set is uneven) the saw will go off the line and will need continuous correction
I clicked in less than a milisecond when I read the title :)
Giving hope to those without access to a bandsaw or sawmill.
I am now going to take what I've learned here and traslate it to three seperate 500lbs logs with my logging saws. Here's hoping I don't get crushed, but if I do at least something will end up looking like a plank.
How long it takes this way? Hundred of years?
one afternoon - a few hours - or in other words, it takes less time than going to a shop to buy this wood or order it in internet - specially when it comes to wood like hungarian lilac (not on sale anywhere) or the apple from own garden for example.
Some know more values than just time & money.
@@waldmensch-hy4ly true. But this is hard core, would have cut for one afternoon more with chainsaw than this way. Just my way, but i respect your way. All good
I would not do this with bigger trunks too - but for this kind of little projects, it was fun.
I even wonder, if it would have been faster or even possible with my alaskan chainsawmill. Just, to show, what all is possible with just a handfull of handtools.
Thank you
this is very helpful
Couldn't understand what this video is about? How to saw a stick of firewood into a board. Nobody has the time to hand saw lumber, if you do to have too much money.
Thanx for this interesting comment / point of view :-)
I prefer to watch things from a very different perspective:
Time - there is - plenty of it.
Every morning we wake up, a new day is given to us. If it took me 2 hours to saw, every day would give enough time to cut 12 times this amount of wood. Isn't it amazing!?
The point is just, how we (each of us for him/herself) decide to spend this given time.
Every of us has the choice, the freedom to choose what to do with these given days.
Watching humans around has given me the impression, that most have long forgotten this freedom of choice.
I personally do not know many people who spend most possible time on the things they like. Most seem to have developed a strong creativity in finding various types of excuses to justify that they do the opposite most of the day. Others somehow started to think, that they are worth of respect only if they suffer most of the time, or work hard, or be serious or what ever. Over the years, this way of thinking got so strong, that they really started to deeply believe in it - it became their reality.
Knowing, that is was their own choice, is somehow 'interesting' maybe scary...
You have far more free time than me
What is the maker of the hand saw?
-> Video Text!
Welche Säge ist das? Haben Sie einen Link dazu?
--> Kommentare lesen :-)
ich glaube ich habs gefunden auf feinewerkzeuge. würdest Du sie empfehlen? Ich suche mir eine Säge für Langsschnitte der breiten Bretter bzw trockene Klötze; min 15 cm breit. Ich habe eine Pax mit 8 TPI für Längsschnitte. Sie ist mir etwas langsam. Ich frage mich ob ich eine gröbere Säge brauche mit 4 - 5 TPI. @@littleforest
Tja, die Antwort kommt spät - habe das wohlö in all den vielen Kommentaren übersehen.
Ich mag die Säge. Für trockenes Holz sind 4-5 TPI manchmal etwas ruppig und es geht aufs Ahndgelenk. Allerdings braucht es die grossen Leerräume zwischen den Zähnen um das Sägemehl ab zu transportieren. --> Ja, ich denke, das wäre die richtige Säge für das was Du beschreibst.
@@littleforestlieben Dank für die Antwort. Ich wollte wissen wo ich die Säge finden kann. Die Info mit der Zahnverteilung hatte ich schon gesehen. Ich glaube ich habe die Säge sogar in einem Onlineshop gefunden.
@@ramibabaganuc feinewerkzeuge.de ist da eine gute Adresse 🙂
wow fantastic .Thanks lot .
Amazing skill, although very eccentric
digital scale? i want to see a balance haha
"Log to Timber"? Thanks, Gulliver...
Awesome
Does anybody have a suggestion on the appropriate saw for a job like this?
Check the video text - i mention there something about it.
Adding to the video description the creator recommends reading:
A rip-cut saw and a drosscit saw can be the same saw, but the teeth are filed at different angles across the plate
A crosscut saw (meant for cutting across fibers) has teeth like little knives, where the leading vertical edge cuts the fibers.
A rip-cut saw (meant for cutting along the grain as in this video) has teeth like little chisels, with the cutting edge running straight across the thickness of the saw plate, and taking little bites off the ends of fibers.
Sometimes you can tell the difference by the bottom of the cut they leave. Cross-cut teeth will leave a double groove, like an upside-down M, while rip-cut teeth leave a flat-ish bottom.
You can generally sharpen any older saw to either with a file, though some saws (like the Disston ACME 120) were originally made specifically for ripping.
Many modern saws are "hard-point", with impulse-hardened teeth that last longer, but can't be sharpened. You can generally tell because the teeth are a different color, like they've been "welded".
Fun!
Why is everything. Being done like someone’s sleeping
A lot of people watch it as a way to relax, some specifically because they get a kind of scalp tingles from soft noises happening close to their ear (called ASMR). The creator of the video gets more viewers and more ad revenue if they can appeal to that audience too.
Bandsaw…
Szép
Waste of a nice log. Flat sawn just warps and cups.
Did you see the grain on that tiny log? How would you suggest quarter sawing that without wasting most of the wood and ending up with tiny worthless strips of wood
How would you have sawn it?
Theres nothing stopping you mounting your saw in a brace to keep it perfectly straight. Still a hamd tool.
which brace?