Michael, The graphics in this purlin video relating to the specific bevel angles were extremely helpful in visualising the underlying geometry involved. This approach is superior to images in text books as it’s 3D content clarifies all the essential details considerably. Your additional and alternative methods for marking out the cuts on sheet material will be most useful too- I will explore both schemes. Thank you so much for producing this valuable content - it really does help - As noted in previous notes, I am most appreciative of the behind the scenes tech production which is required to formulate the great graphics!!! Thanks so much!
Hi Jeff,thanks for your comprehensive feed back which is much appreciated. I like having animated videos available to cater to the more visual learner and it is a great flipped learning option to have now that remote learning has become more necessary.
Thanks for another helpful video Michael, but why do so many carpenters or books use the rafter length and rise for purlin side bevels on the roofing square? As this will only work on a square roof is it not better to use co pitch (co length) and side run which will work for all roofs and is easier to visualize why it works. It took me a while to figure out how rafter length and rise gave the bevel as i like to picture the square in place. Misi
Is there a quick way of setting it out on a piece of timber, using common rafter plumb cut and stepping back the perpendicular distances on edge and side of timber and joining the lines to get the angles,can't remember exactly
Hi there, I was hoping to find an old drawing i had on this before i reply so as i am sure its correct....cant remember whether or not it was a plumb or seat cut to start with....but its worth chasing down as it was a good one.
great video micheal, from this i just put in my first set of purlins, the video was good send! the lead carpenter can not work out if your a teacher who was a shit hot chippy! what is your background please
glad the video helped....my background is i served 4 year apprenticeship in Carpentry and Joinery in the early 1980s...worked as roofer,first and second fix carpenter, fitted furniture etc....now i am a carpentry and joinery apprenticeship instructor since the turn of the century.
Not sure if this is the answer you want....Line up side of saw base plate with purlin side cut (blade depth at zero)...then mark 2 pionts on each side of the plate that line up with the top of the purlin.....Now drop blade to required depth....then while keeping those points in line with the bottom line of the purlin edge swing the blade until it lines (sight it) up with the purlin edge cut . Make sure saw is isolated from power whilst doing this.
Michael, The graphics in this purlin video relating to the specific bevel angles were extremely helpful in visualising the underlying geometry involved. This approach is superior to images in text books as it’s 3D content clarifies all the essential details considerably. Your additional and alternative methods for marking out the cuts on sheet material will be most useful too- I will explore both schemes. Thank you so much for producing this valuable content - it really does help - As noted in previous notes, I am most appreciative of the behind the scenes tech production which is required to formulate the great graphics!!! Thanks so much!
Hi Jeff,thanks for your comprehensive feed back which is much appreciated. I like having animated videos available to cater to the more visual learner and it is a great flipped learning option to have now that remote learning has become more necessary.
I just happened to be looking for such a tutorial on perlin angles, this has been incredibly helpful, much thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the videos making my life a lot easier
Happy to help
Fantastic video Michael, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
great stuff Michael
Again nothing short of supberb tutorial on the purlin ,nothing has come close to this method ,most enjoyable good graphics
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for another helpful video Michael, but why do so many carpenters or books use the rafter length and rise for purlin side bevels on the roofing square? As this will only work on a square roof is it not better to use co pitch (co length) and side run which will work for all roofs and is easier to visualize why it works. It took me a while to figure out how rafter length and rise gave the bevel as i like to picture the square in place. Misi
Is there a quick way of setting it out on a piece of timber, using common rafter plumb cut and stepping back the perpendicular distances on edge and side of timber and joining the lines to get the angles,can't remember exactly
Hi there, I was hoping to find an old drawing i had on this before i reply so as i am sure its correct....cant remember whether or not it was a plumb or seat cut to start with....but its worth chasing down as it was a good one.
great video micheal, from this i just put in my first set of purlins, the video was good send!
the lead carpenter can not work out if your a teacher who was a shit hot chippy!
what is your background please
glad the video helped....my background is i served 4 year apprenticeship in Carpentry and Joinery in the early 1980s...worked as roofer,first and second fix carpenter, fitted furniture etc....now i am a carpentry and joinery apprenticeship instructor since the turn of the century.
Can you show what bevel the circular saw should be on to achieve the proper cut cheers
Not sure if this is the answer you want....Line up side of saw base plate with purlin side cut (blade depth at zero)...then mark 2 pionts on each side of the plate that line up with the top of the purlin.....Now drop blade to required depth....then while keeping those points in line with the bottom line of the purlin edge swing the blade until it lines (sight it) up with the purlin edge cut . Make sure saw is isolated from power whilst doing this.