Faster than drying out and sifting is to simply put a bunch of clumps in a bucket of water, stir it around until the water is dark in color, let the chunks settle and carefully pour the water out into a pillow case. It will collect perfect clay and you only need to wait a couple hours for it to dry to a usable consistency.
Probably would be better to sift that water you mixed around into another bucket then letting it settle , now you can stir it again and pillow case it or for better clay -run the top water through another finer sift while leave the non clay that stays in the bottom
@@mobmob5944 But that isn't better. Clay is water soluble while impurities are not. The point is that you create a pure clay/water solution by letting the impurities settle. Sifting unsettled water is wasted effort that inserts impurities for no reason and doubles your work. Once you have a saturated clay/water solution you just need to pour it out into a cloth so the water can separate. Another sift won't make it any purer.
@@calcustom5026wait so instead of doing all of that extra work all the video say to do I can literally just put dirt in water, mix it around, pore the chocolate milk looking water into a pillow case and then let that dry? Does that mean I can pull a open pillow case through red muddy looking water and let that dry and I will have clay?
@@SherrickDuncan Yup. Clay is the water soluble component of dirt. As long as you wait a moment for the non soluble things to settle first and skim off any floating matter, ~99% clay will be present in the solution. It's super easy. Use 25% crushed up fired clay as a temper and it won't crack in the oven. If you're feeling bougie hydrate it with the water you used to clean rice so the rice's polymer chains will add more plasticity for easy working.
hello just want to sayyyy you can collect grass hay, dry it and crush it or buy sand and knead it into you clay this will temper it so it doesn't crack like your piece. use a spoon or smooth stone, wet the stone and rub your clay piece a day into drying once its leathery to polish your piece this will then be food safe as long as its cleaned properly maybe do a bit more research into that, but I'm sure I'm correct put a metal bucket with holes in or use old pottery to cover your piece from the coal of the fire this way the color wont be ruined by the carbon.
that first deposit you found would actually probably be worth while with wet processing to levigate out all the dirt and leave the clay. any time you see those cracks you found at least a medium percentage of clay in the soil. that deposit is larger so you can collect multiple buckets and be left with a bucket or so worth of clay in the end.
why it can't be used for food? is there a motivation or it's just because it was taken out from a river? What it should be done to make it useful for food?
That’s a great question I didn’t have time to cover in detail on the video. Once clay has been fired in the way I show here, it is very porous. It soaks up all kinds of things like a sponge and it won’t hold water well. This means any food you put in it would soak into the fired clay and stay there. This makes it the perfect home for bacteria which grows in the pores of the clay with no way to wash them out. The best way to make pottery food safe is to fire it again with a glaze on the surface. Glaze becomes a sort of glass coating that covers the pores and makes the pottery water tight and food safe. Glazing is not easily done on a charcoal grill however and needs a clean high heat environment to work best.
There are a few ways to seal earthenware pottery. I make primitive pottery, and am just learning about the methods the ancestors used....see Andy Ward's videos on it. He has experimented with a few ancient methods and a newer method of using milk. No method is perfect but will help a vessel hold water for some time....and can be cooked in. Good luck.
That’s a great question I didn’t have time to cover in detail on the video. Once clay has been fired in the way I show here, it is very porous. It soaks up all kinds of things like a sponge and it won’t hold water well. This means any food you put in it would soak into the fired clay and stay there. This makes it the perfect home for bacteria which grows in the pores of the clay with no way to wash them out. The best way to make pottery food safe is to fire it again with a glaze on the surface. Glaze becomes a sort of glass coating that covers the pores and makes the pottery water tight and food safe. Glazing is not easily done on a charcoal grill however and needs a clean high heat environment to work best.
I choose not to add that step to try to keep this tutorial as accessible and straightforward as possible. Though that can be very helpful it’s not required to make fun projects little projects on the grill. 😉
That’s a great question I didn’t have time to cover in detail on the video. Once clay has been fired in the way I show here, it is very porous. It soaks up all kinds of things like a sponge and it won’t hold water well. This means any food you put in it would soak into the fired clay and stay there. This makes it the perfect home for bacteria which grows in the pores of the clay with no way to wash them out. The best way to make pottery food safe is to fire it again with a glaze on the surface. Glaze becomes a sort of glass coating that covers the pores and makes the pottery water tight and food safe. Glazing is not easily done on a charcoal grill however and needs a clean high heat environment to work best.
Faster than drying out and sifting is to simply put a bunch of clumps in a bucket of water, stir it around until the water is dark in color, let the chunks settle and carefully pour the water out into a pillow case. It will collect perfect clay and you only need to wait a couple hours for it to dry to a usable consistency.
Probably would be better to sift that water you mixed around into another bucket then letting it settle , now you can stir it again and pillow case it or for better clay -run the top water through another finer sift while leave the non clay that stays in the bottom
@@mobmob5944 But that isn't better. Clay is water soluble while impurities are not. The point is that you create a pure clay/water solution by letting the impurities settle. Sifting unsettled water is wasted effort that inserts impurities for no reason and doubles your work.
Once you have a saturated clay/water solution you just need to pour it out into a cloth so the water can separate. Another sift won't make it any purer.
@@calcustom5026wait so instead of doing all of that extra work all the video say to do I can literally just put dirt in water, mix it around, pore the chocolate milk looking water into a pillow case and then let that dry?
Does that mean I can pull a open pillow case through red muddy looking water and let that dry and I will have clay?
@@SherrickDuncan Yup. Clay is the water soluble component of dirt. As long as you wait a moment for the non soluble things to settle first and skim off any floating matter, ~99% clay will be present in the solution. It's super easy. Use 25% crushed up fired clay as a temper and it won't crack in the oven. If you're feeling bougie hydrate it with the water you used to clean rice so the rice's polymer chains will add more plasticity for easy working.
hello just want to sayyyy you can collect grass hay, dry it and crush it or buy sand and knead it into you clay this will temper it so it doesn't crack like your piece. use a spoon or smooth stone, wet the stone and rub your clay piece a day into drying once its leathery to polish your piece this will then be food safe as long as its cleaned properly maybe do a bit more research into that, but I'm sure I'm correct put a metal bucket with holes in or use old pottery to cover your piece from the coal of the fire this way the color wont be ruined by the carbon.
that first deposit you found would actually probably be worth while with wet processing to levigate out all the dirt and leave the clay. any time you see those cracks you found at least a medium percentage of clay in the soil. that deposit is larger so you can collect multiple buckets and be left with a bucket or so worth of clay in the end.
Thank you for making this video. Very interesting!
Most welcome! I’m glad you enjoyed it!
why it can't be used for food? is there a motivation or it's just because it was taken out from a river? What it should be done to make it useful for food?
That’s a great question I didn’t have time to cover in detail on the video. Once clay has been fired in the way I show here, it is very porous. It soaks up all kinds of things like a sponge and it won’t hold water well. This means any food you put in it would soak into the fired clay and stay there. This makes it the perfect home for bacteria which grows in the pores of the clay with no way to wash them out.
The best way to make pottery food safe is to fire it again with a glaze on the surface. Glaze becomes a sort of glass coating that covers the pores and makes the pottery water tight and food safe. Glazing is not easily done on a charcoal grill however and needs a clean high heat environment to work best.
There are a few ways to seal earthenware pottery. I make primitive pottery, and am just learning about the methods the ancestors used....see Andy Ward's videos on it. He has experimented with a few ancient methods and a newer method of using milk. No method is perfect but will help a vessel hold water for some time....and can be cooked in. Good luck.
Some glaze is also poison because it contains led. Food safe glaze is a special glaze.
Why would it not be food safe after firing?
That’s a great question I didn’t have time to cover in detail on the video. Once clay has been fired in the way I show here, it is very porous. It soaks up all kinds of things like a sponge and it won’t hold water well. This means any food you put in it would soak into the fired clay and stay there. This makes it the perfect home for bacteria which grows in the pores of the clay with no way to wash them out.
The best way to make pottery food safe is to fire it again with a glaze on the surface. Glaze becomes a sort of glass coating that covers the pores and makes the pottery water tight and food safe. Glazing is not easily done on a charcoal grill however and needs a clean high heat environment to work best.
Wonderful.👍👍
why did you not temper the clay when making it? should you not add some non plastic material to void it cracking?
I choose not to add that step to try to keep this tutorial as accessible and straightforward as possible. Though that can be very helpful it’s not required to make fun projects little projects on the grill. 😉
great video. im glad she didnt use that whiney fake youtube voice. this was relaxing to listen to.
Thank you! 😁
I hope to add automatic translation to arabic 🌹 my greetings
En donde esta ese lugar majestuoso 😍😍😍
Little Miami river outside Dayton Ohio. :)
Can you tell where is this location
Thank you
Why isn't the finished product food safe?
That’s a great question I didn’t have time to cover in detail on the video. Once clay has been fired in the way I show here, it is very porous. It soaks up all kinds of things like a sponge and it won’t hold water well. This means any food you put in it would soak into the fired clay and stay there. This makes it the perfect home for bacteria which grows in the pores of the clay with no way to wash them out.
The best way to make pottery food safe is to fire it again with a glaze on the surface. Glaze becomes a sort of glass coating that covers the pores and makes the pottery water tight and food safe. Glazing is not easily done on a charcoal grill however and needs a clean high heat environment to work best.
Is this type of clay bentonite clay?
As I know it's wild clay
This was totally amateur but i still enjoyed watching 😄
She farts alot
This is the worst clay making tutorial ever. You didn't even tell us to add temper