Looking good Roger ! I like using that too on those areas, A-Pillars, cracks and crevices. One painted seams like the bottom of doors on painted cars I have squirted ATF with a oil squirt can with the window rolled down into the door skin area and have had good luck with that stopping future rust. Did that on several cars that I owned for several decades and never saw rust form. It gets real thin on a hot day and continues to seep. With a rag you can wipe it off paint and there is no staining.
I do the the same thing where I can't get to the back of the panel easily... And use Eastwood's internal frame coating when dry or etch primer, and when the car is done and all paint is finished if I have access to the back of the panels 3Ms cavity wax or equivalent to stop future rust...i do the inside of doors b pillars down the a pillars everywhere I have access to.
@@MrFireman164 Yeah I hate rust and it easier to prevent it than to fix it after the fact, knew a kid who had a 70 Monte that started rusting from the inside out he was highly disappointed with his resto..... sad!
I use phosphoric acid as well. I’ve used in spray bottles, multiple coats, scotch brute where accessible. Coat cavities such as trunk lids, pillars and rockers with either POR15 or Stops Rust. FYI- I found the dairy and brewing industries use phosphoric acid to descale piping. Found at Tractor Supply for $15 per gallon
@@johnbarr6616 thanks! very good I'll look for it next time at tractor supply. I also use clean strip prep and etch concrete prep, it's about $20 a gallon pretty strong too.
I just power washed my 67 firebirds subframe, used a cheek poker ( wire wheel) to remove loose rust. I sprayed it inside and out with 3M concrete effervescent cleaner ( aka phosphoric acid). It cleaned some areas to clean metal and the rest of the rust to a black coating. I didn’t consider it reacting with epoxy. I have a few months for it to cure out. I will investigate what I can cover this coating with. I just learned about using cavity wax. Thank for your videos. I,ll be your friend and I don’t need presents. lol 😂
I was curious as to what phosphoric acid you used as I didn’t hear it, or in the description. Plus, I have a 67 pickup and very little body rust, but inside the doors and bedsides where you can barely reach bother me. What happens if it is brushed on and left behind? I would prefer to clean it, the spray epoxy on it or in it. The doors are empty so that would a perfect time to do this without worry of other and all components. Any thoughts? I guess I would feel better considering these were built naked steel, never dunked. Just parts placed onto a holding fixture, spot welded then assembled. Lots of hiding spots! Thanks, enjoy the videos and info! Especially the SPI epoxy!
I used ospho on this one, I would be ok with it down inside the doors let us sit for 24-48 hours and kill the rust m, then if you can reach red scotch brite inside where you can, then coat it with whatever you have.
More Christmas presents to buy, LOL! On the acid, I can't tell you how many people have commented on my phosphoric acid videos telling me to epoxy right over it. PPG epoxy is the same as SPI. Clearly says in the tech NOT to put it over acid. It sure would have been a lot easier to just let the acid dry and go for it.
I saw a 5/2022 video that the tech had a PPG epoxy high-build that caught my eye was DTM on the epoxy. It is from their “Vibrance” line which not cheap, but I tried without a logon, I could not get the TDS. The closest to me is a 28 mile round trip to my area PPG store, but maybe they will tell me over the phone what it says about use over phosphoric acid. Plus, a DTM has some level of a week acid in it. I wonder if it was phosphoric acid. With chemistry in the paint industry constantly changing, it is hard to keep up. Disabled with a degree of back problems, I will crawl to get my project done, but curious if anyone has heard of it? What acid do they use? Only the TDS knows for sure I just wonder why they made so hard to get this info.
Do you neutralize with water or baking soda or just dry and wipe with thinner? I'm using epoxy and some say don't won't stick gotta neutralize, spi and ppg say no. Others say go ahead. If mfg say no should I neutralize?
Ospho has instructions on the bottle, if I remember correctly you treat the metal and let sit for at least 24 hours, spi says “if” you are going to use it, after 24 hours re apply more acid to reactivate and then rinse with water, blow it dry and prime.
@@MrFireman164 yes for oil based paint like Rustoleum. What about epoxy or urethane? I've always reactivated and done by SPI standards, others say no wipe off excess and just let dry, if you get white powdery residue you dint wipe up and used too much. I've had good luck but if I don't need to do all that and just use and let dry I want to save all the rest. Thank you sir. Semper Fi and have a great weekend.
@@kitjasabsgabs1830 this is what I do, ospho wait 24 hours, re wet with ospho and rinse with water, dry with compressed air, 80 grit on d/a then clean metal with 70/30 isopropyl alcohol, dry again then epoxy. May not be right but it’s the way I do it.
@@MrFireman164 thank you for your time. This is how I do it and was told I was not doing it correctly. You have a great weekend. I guess some will say we're wrong even if we do it Their way. Lmao
@@MrFireman164 I saw some bubbling in my repair job on a rear fender. I thought it may have been rust but it's not. I hit with 220 just to see and it's the acid. I did this on a few nice days in early November. I guess I didn't reactivate like I thought I did and now it's bubbling bad. Will make sure I rewet and do correct this time. Got some car rep 2k primer and clear just to see how it works. And it's flawless. OMG to have a epoxy 2k and I don't have to hurry and use within 48 hours as regular 2k primer in a can. Well worth $24.
Roger , every time you work on something , you're spreading the joy of contentment ... Enjoy!
One of the best cars I ever owned was a 64 Chevelle which I bought for $500 from the orig owner in 1973.
I like the way this project is turning out Roger.
Thanks
I like to use POR on areas like this. The rust absorbs it like a sponge and it dries so hard a can't can't scratch it!
Looking good Roger ! I like using that too on those areas, A-Pillars, cracks and crevices. One painted seams like the bottom of doors on painted cars I have squirted ATF with a oil squirt can with the window rolled down into the door skin area and have had good luck with that stopping future rust. Did that on several cars that I owned for several decades and never saw rust form. It gets real thin on a hot day and continues to seep. With a rag you can wipe it off paint and there is no staining.
That atf would save a lot of door skins if people knew
I do the the same thing where I can't get to the back of the panel easily... And use Eastwood's internal frame coating when dry or etch primer, and when the car is done and all paint is finished if I have access to the back of the panels 3Ms cavity wax or equivalent to stop future rust...i do the inside of doors b pillars down the a pillars everywhere I have access to.
Excellent great attention to detail
@@MrFireman164 Yeah I hate rust and it easier to prevent it than to fix it after the fact, knew a kid who had a 70 Monte that started rusting from the inside out he was highly disappointed with his resto..... sad!
@@moparnut6286 yes most don’t realize a few surface bubbles means there is a sea of rust underneath
I use phosphoric acid as well. I’ve used in spray bottles, multiple coats, scotch brute where accessible. Coat cavities such as trunk lids, pillars and rockers with either POR15 or Stops Rust.
FYI- I found the dairy and brewing industries use phosphoric acid to descale piping. Found at Tractor Supply for $15 per gallon
@@johnbarr6616 thanks! very good I'll look for it next time at tractor supply. I also use clean strip prep and etch concrete prep, it's about $20 a gallon pretty strong too.
I just power washed my 67 firebirds subframe, used a cheek poker ( wire wheel) to remove loose rust. I sprayed it inside and out with 3M concrete effervescent cleaner ( aka phosphoric acid). It cleaned some areas to clean metal and the rest of the rust to a black coating. I didn’t consider it reacting with epoxy. I have a few months for it to cure out. I will investigate what I can cover this coating with.
I just learned about using cavity wax. Thank for your videos. I,ll be your friend and I don’t need presents. lol 😂
The 3M concrete cleaner was less than 20 bucks at Menards.
Good to know... friend 😂
I use Klean Strip Concrete and Metal Prep, $17 at Lowe’s. Keep up the great work my friend!!
I was curious as to what phosphoric acid you used as I didn’t hear it, or in the description. Plus, I have a 67 pickup and very little body rust, but inside the doors and bedsides where you can barely reach bother me. What happens if it is brushed on and left behind?
I would prefer to clean it, the spray epoxy on it or in it. The doors are empty so that would a perfect time to do this without worry of other and all components. Any thoughts?
I guess I would feel better considering these were built naked steel, never dunked. Just parts placed onto a holding fixture, spot welded then assembled. Lots of hiding spots!
Thanks, enjoy the videos and info!
Especially the SPI epoxy!
I used ospho on this one, I would be ok with it down inside the doors let us sit for 24-48 hours and kill the rust m, then if you can reach red scotch brite inside where you can, then coat it with whatever you have.
What is brand of phosphoric acid you are using, or is it just something you buy in a gallon jug?
This is ospho but I see several that go to tractor supply or even Home Depot and use there phosphoric acid a lot cheaper than ospho
More Christmas presents to buy, LOL! On the acid, I can't tell you how many people have commented on my phosphoric acid videos telling me to epoxy right over it. PPG epoxy is the same as SPI. Clearly says in the tech NOT to put it over acid. It sure would have been a lot easier to just let the acid dry and go for it.
Lol, yep everyone has an opinion, I go strictly by the product sheets
I saw a 5/2022 video that the tech had a PPG epoxy high-build that caught my eye was DTM on the epoxy. It is from their “Vibrance” line which not cheap, but I tried without a logon, I could not get the TDS. The closest to me is a 28 mile round trip to my area PPG store, but maybe they will tell me over the phone what it says about use over phosphoric acid. Plus, a DTM has some level of a week acid in it. I wonder if it was phosphoric acid.
With chemistry in the paint industry constantly changing, it is hard to keep up. Disabled with a degree of back problems, I will crawl to get my project done, but curious if anyone has heard of it? What acid do they use? Only the TDS knows for sure I just wonder why they made so hard to get this info.
It is the main ingredient in Loctite's naval jelly
Do you neutralize with water or baking soda or just dry and wipe with thinner? I'm using epoxy and some say don't won't stick gotta neutralize, spi and ppg say no. Others say go ahead. If mfg say no should I neutralize?
Ospho has instructions on the bottle, if I remember correctly you treat the metal and let sit for at least 24 hours, spi says “if” you are going to use it, after 24 hours re apply more acid to reactivate and then rinse with water, blow it dry and prime.
@@MrFireman164 yes for oil based paint like Rustoleum. What about epoxy or urethane? I've always reactivated and done by SPI standards, others say no wipe off excess and just let dry, if you get white powdery residue you dint wipe up and used too much. I've had good luck but if I don't need to do all that and just use and let dry I want to save all the rest. Thank you sir. Semper Fi and have a great weekend.
@@kitjasabsgabs1830 this is what I do, ospho wait 24 hours, re wet with ospho and rinse with water, dry with compressed air, 80 grit on d/a then clean metal with 70/30 isopropyl alcohol, dry again then epoxy. May not be right but it’s the way I do it.
@@MrFireman164 thank you for your time. This is how I do it and was told I was not doing it correctly. You have a great weekend. I guess some will say we're wrong even if we do it Their way. Lmao
@@MrFireman164 I saw some bubbling in my repair job on a rear fender. I thought it may have been rust but it's not. I hit with 220 just to see and it's the acid. I did this on a few nice days in early November. I guess I didn't reactivate like I thought I did and now it's bubbling bad. Will make sure I rewet and do correct this time. Got some car rep 2k primer and clear just to see how it works. And it's flawless. OMG to have a epoxy 2k and I don't have to hurry and use within 48 hours as regular 2k primer in a can. Well worth $24.