Nice car, looking forward the the video series of this recommissioning. I have a 95 940fk wagon here in Australia. The broken dipstick was one of the issues mine had too
Thanks! Yes they seem to on the lower side on the quality scale, same with the cap for the windshield washer. Australia sounds like a good place for a 940 :D
Already done 🫡 They were remarkably stiff and dry. I find i odd since on my other volvo that has done 4x the milage they feel like new. It is a -96 som maybe it was another supplier of hose or just the conditions 🤔
Yeah I remember those factory alarm systems from the 90s and even well into the early 80s on some luxury cars of that era certain cars had them integrated into the vehicle and you could get an optional remote fob for the alarm as well on Volvos back in the day. To arm/disarm the system you do so manually via the key in the driver's door. I forget if it starts or not when the car is in active alarm mode but I think turning the ignition on/off resets the system along with the key in the door should do the trick as we saw it did.
I will have to look into this alarm a little bit. I dont know if im missing the fob or if there should be one to this typ of alarm. Cant find any info in the manual about an alarm without a fob.
@@BackmansGarage for a 1998 model year it should’ve had a fob. If you don’t find one anywhere, I’m sure you can get one at your local Volvo dealership if you want one.
@@BackmansGarage it sounds like the security system is functioning from the looks of it. Not sure what your local Volvo dealership would charge for a replacement remote but just a heads up that might be expensive. They can be sometimes.
7 years, I'd just have got a new battery, checked the oil, and started it up. To remove the front pulley bolt, just jam the start ring with a pry bar. Factory water pumps are always better left alone if they are good. Even Volvo replacements are not as good as factory items. Alarm has a starter motor interrupt immobiliser. The alarm is enabled and disabled with the fob. It can be extracted and bypassed or replaced with a aftermarket unit. There is am entirely separate RFID chip-in-key immobiliser that works digitally with the fuel ECU, the immobiliser module and fuel ECU are coded, but you can lose the function if you chip the fuel ECU. If the alarm is off and the key is not recognised, it will start the first time for a few seconds and then stop. The system is always operational, but is only for starting the engine, it will stay running if you take the RFID chip away. There is no way to disable it as it is. Alarm is behind the glove box in the UK, not sure about the US but it will be on an A pillar. Alarm is unreliable and will die eventually, seems you are missing the fob. Immobiliser is not too bad, but you need major surgery to fix it if it goes. RFID chip is removeable from the key. The ECU doesn't prime every time in this year, earlier ones did up to 95. I think You have to leave it 10s + in ignition off before it will prime again. I took the entire Engine, ECU and RFID module, and put it in my 360 and put the chip in the torch key inplace of the bulb, works great.
Good tips there! I also realized that the pump doesn't run with every on/off on this. My -96 does it, but it might be a late -95. As far as the alarm goes, it will have to be a later issue to solve. Right now, it seems to be disabled since I can run and drive it. Unclear of what happens if I remove the battery again 😄 But I'm going to look for the fob or atleast a fob and somehow get that mated to the car once i figure out if it even should have one, would be nice if it all worked with remote lock/lockup if that's also something I have. The previous owner doesent know anything about a fob so that what's making me think that this just has alarm with immobilizer without a fob with remote lock/unlock.
@@BackmansGarage It would be very unusual to have a non-remote alarm. There is a different driver door lock with a different number of wires that can have a servo drive it. Thats the difference between alarm and remote locking and central locking only (driven by driver door key movement and no servo). There will be a wire (or pair maybe) you can pulse 12V to in either polarity, and if it unlocks the driver door you have remote locking hardware. Its certainly not unusual to lose the fobs or for it to stop working, reprogramming should be possible. I've experienced a bad boot for the alarm depending on how you connect the battery (doesn't like sparks/surges), but this maybe more for Guard 1, I don't know if Guard 2 (what you have) is any better, but always worth battery disconnection/reconnect to fix crazy alarms.
Hey, thanks for the 940 content, theres not a great deal of it on YT. I'm currently restoring a 96 940 b230ft m90 which needs a lot of love. The one you have there looks to be a high spec. Look forward to seeing what you do with this one 🤘
Thanks! I also have a 940, b230fk, m90 -96 but the wagon. However that's my beater/shitbox/winter sled, but i aim to keep this one in mint condition. This one is actually quite low-spec for the model year. I only think the Ac is the one option that is on this. The Classics of -98 had alot of extras stock :)
Awesome content my friend! Glad it started up so easily, and you'll have that fuel leak sorted in no time! Can recomend Cohline's fuel hose that's rated for petrol, biodiesel and 100% ethanol, that's the only aftermarket fuel hose I've tried that doesn't develop cracks over time.
Thanks a lot! Glad you enjoyed the content 😊. And thanks for the tip about the fuel hose, I was thinking about a good brand and where to get that. I avoided feltema at least and went to mekonomen and got the semperit hose. I dont know if its good but i will look into the cohline for future hoses, for now im just happy to have it running :)
@@BackmansGarage I got one made in 1991 the first year and it got the 16Valve engine. They were only made in 1991. Then Volvo was going over to the Turbo models instead. So the original 16 valve is pretty rare in the 940 series.
@@ricksampson6780 Probably has to do with the accelerator pedal issue where moisture somehow gets into the connector shorting it out and can lead to a runaway amongst other issues. There is a recall out there for all vehicles affected by the issue.
Tack, ja det va några oroliga veckor innan dealen gick i lås 😅 Men de kul att man fått uppleva ett litet barnfind i alla fall 😀 Kan fixa en länk till handskarna ikväll 👌
That is a VERY nice 945. Oh my good morning is it nice😅
Världens bästa bilar, 940 och 240.
Min favvo är min 945 turbo -97.. nyskick och 58 tusen mil nu.❤
Man blir farligt fast i dom efter ett tag 😅
@@BackmansGarage Kolla min 240 på min kanal, eller i RetroBunkers biltest..
Love your videos man and so looking forward to follow this project!
Thanks! Will keep updating on the progress 👍
Please don't stop doing videos, they are really good
Thanks 😃👍 I'll keep it going as long as I can find the time.
Nice car, looking forward the the video series of this recommissioning.
I have a 95 940fk wagon here in Australia.
The broken dipstick was one of the issues mine had too
Thanks! Yes they seem to on the lower side on the quality scale, same with the cap for the windshield washer. Australia sounds like a good place for a 940 :D
Welcome back to live, looking forward to see more of the 940! 👌🏼
That fuel leak is why my 745 nearly burnt down. tho it was the other line going down to chassis. Recommend changing both of those hoses.
Already done 🫡 They were remarkably stiff and dry. I find i odd since on my other volvo that has done 4x the milage they feel like new. It is a -96 som maybe it was another supplier of hose or just the conditions 🤔
Great to see you back on the tools ! I do miss my 940 turbo. Looking forward to more on this 👍
Thanks 👍 Do you still have the Amazon?
@@BackmansGarage yes I do. I plan to get back on it soon. Just want to finish the 245 off
Yeah I remember those factory alarm systems from the 90s and even well into the early 80s on some luxury cars of that era certain cars had them integrated into the vehicle and you could get an optional remote fob for the alarm as well on Volvos back in the day. To arm/disarm the system you do so manually via the key in the driver's door. I forget if it starts or not when the car is in active alarm mode but I think turning the ignition on/off resets the system along with the key in the door should do the trick as we saw it did.
I will have to look into this alarm a little bit. I dont know if im missing the fob or if there should be one to this typ of alarm. Cant find any info in the manual about an alarm without a fob.
@@BackmansGarage for a 1998 model year it should’ve had a fob. If you don’t find one anywhere, I’m sure you can get one at your local Volvo dealership if you want one.
@mds2465 im going to give them a call monday and see what they can do, would be nice if it worked 😄
@@BackmansGarage in the meantime you can always arm/disarm the car manually by locking/unlocking the car via the driver's door.
@@BackmansGarage it sounds like the security system is functioning from the looks of it. Not sure what your local Volvo dealership would charge for a replacement remote but just a heads up that might be expensive. They can be sometimes.
Wow.
keep it all original, I have s70 classic in my garage.
That's exactly what I have in mind. Few of these real cars left now. S70 is a nice model, hard to find in a good shape 💪
@@BackmansGarage yeah. My s70 has only 250000 mils and It's fully loudet.
Welcome back! Thanks for the English content.
Thanks! Back to original volvo content now 👌
Great video 🎉
Thanks!
7 years, I'd just have got a new battery, checked the oil, and started it up.
To remove the front pulley bolt, just jam the start ring with a pry bar.
Factory water pumps are always better left alone if they are good. Even Volvo replacements are not as good as factory items.
Alarm has a starter motor interrupt immobiliser. The alarm is enabled and disabled with the fob. It can be extracted and bypassed or replaced with a aftermarket unit.
There is am entirely separate RFID chip-in-key immobiliser that works digitally with the fuel ECU, the immobiliser module and fuel ECU are coded, but you can lose the function if you chip the fuel ECU. If the alarm is off and the key is not recognised, it will start the first time for a few seconds and then stop. The system is always operational, but is only for starting the engine, it will stay running if you take the RFID chip away. There is no way to disable it as it is.
Alarm is behind the glove box in the UK, not sure about the US but it will be on an A pillar. Alarm is unreliable and will die eventually, seems you are missing the fob. Immobiliser is not too bad, but you need major surgery to fix it if it goes. RFID chip is removeable from the key.
The ECU doesn't prime every time in this year, earlier ones did up to 95. I think You have to leave it 10s + in ignition off before it will prime again.
I took the entire Engine, ECU and RFID module, and put it in my 360 and put the chip in the torch key inplace of the bulb, works great.
Good tips there! I also realized that the pump doesn't run with every on/off on this. My -96 does it, but it might be a late -95. As far as the alarm goes, it will have to be a later issue to solve. Right now, it seems to be disabled since I can run and drive it. Unclear of what happens if I remove the battery again 😄 But I'm going to look for the fob or atleast a fob and somehow get that mated to the car once i figure out if it even should have one, would be nice if it all worked with remote lock/lockup if that's also something I have. The previous owner doesent know anything about a fob so that what's making me think that this just has alarm with immobilizer without a fob with remote lock/unlock.
@@BackmansGarage It would be very unusual to have a non-remote alarm. There is a different driver door lock with a different number of wires that can have a servo drive it. Thats the difference between alarm and remote locking and central locking only (driven by driver door key movement and no servo). There will be a wire (or pair maybe) you can pulse 12V to in either polarity, and if it unlocks the driver door you have remote locking hardware.
Its certainly not unusual to lose the fobs or for it to stop working, reprogramming should be possible.
I've experienced a bad boot for the alarm depending on how you connect the battery (doesn't like sparks/surges), but this maybe more for Guard 1, I don't know if Guard 2 (what you have) is any better, but always worth battery disconnection/reconnect to fix crazy alarms.
Hey, thanks for the 940 content, theres not a great deal of it on YT. I'm currently restoring a 96 940 b230ft m90 which needs a lot of love. The one you have there looks to be a high spec. Look forward to seeing what you do with this one 🤘
Thanks! I also have a 940, b230fk, m90 -96 but the wagon. However that's my beater/shitbox/winter sled, but i aim to keep this one in mint condition. This one is actually quite low-spec for the model year. I only think the Ac is the one option that is on this. The Classics of -98 had alot of extras stock :)
The oilpan screw on the B230 is actually the last remaining non metric. It’s 1“ not 25/26mm.
Darn! How did i not think of that! 😄 Had to measure it right away and sure enough! Measured 25.4mm or 1"
Awesome content my friend! Glad it started up so easily, and you'll have that fuel leak sorted in no time! Can recomend Cohline's fuel hose that's rated for petrol, biodiesel and 100% ethanol, that's the only aftermarket fuel hose I've tried that doesn't develop cracks over time.
Thanks a lot! Glad you enjoyed the content 😊. And thanks for the tip about the fuel hose, I was thinking about a good brand and where to get that. I avoided feltema at least and went to mekonomen and got the semperit hose. I dont know if its good but i will look into the cohline for future hoses, for now im just happy to have it running :)
What a cool car! I really like the look of the red brick
It is the most accurate brick color 😀👌
One of the last made "REAL" Volvo's
Couldn't agree more 💪
@@BackmansGarage I got one made in 1991 the first year and it got the 16Valve engine. They were only made in 1991. Then Volvo was going over to the Turbo models instead. So the original 16 valve is pretty rare in the 940 series.
Sounds like a keeper 😀
@@BackmansGarage Bought it back in 2003
Kanon bra. Följer med 😊
Perfekt för nån 18åring att sladda runt på vintern me
That 'fuel leak' is just the auto degrease feature
Do you have any comment on the recent fatal XC40 uncommanded acceleration incident?
I think that I have missed that news. Could provide a link to what you are referring to?
@@BackmansGarage YT deletes links in message replies. Please search MGUY and look at his most recent posts, thanks.
@@BackmansGarage Please search mguy and review his most recent uploads, thanks.
@@BackmansGarage Incredible how YT deletes any link to any other YT channel.
@@ricksampson6780 Probably has to do with the accelerator pedal issue where moisture somehow gets into the connector shorting it out and can lead to a runaway amongst other issues. There is a recall out there for all vehicles affected by the issue.
Tänk om man ändå hade hittat en sådan 😊
Vad är det för gummi handskar du använder? Ser ut att vara lite rejälare än de tunna jag brukar nyttja.
Tack, ja det va några oroliga veckor innan dealen gick i lås 😅 Men de kul att man fått uppleva ett litet barnfind i alla fall 😀
Kan fixa en länk till handskarna ikväll 👌
Bor du i sverige? Du pratar som en amerikan?
Japp, jag har bott där en sväng så det följde med hem tydligen.