Having problems with connecting to shore power even if my breakers are all off it still blows 2 200 amp fuses in the main but everything works with ginny in rv the rv plug doesn't look to bad a little black in side .
Those 200 amp fuses are your DC system. So if they are blowing when you’re connecting to shore power, you might have a problem with your converter. That’s just first initial thoughts. Could be 100 different things.
Your battery is DC voltage. This is the AC side, unless you have an inverter improperly wired and it’s backfeeding the outlet, it’s not a concern. Please let me know if I can help any other way! Thanks for watching!!!
I am converting an ambulance and it has a 20amp shore power connection. I'd like to change it to 30amp. Is it as simple as switching out the connection as you have just done or will the wiring need to be changed as well? Thanks!
I have the same issue except the inlet on the camper when I tried to pull it out to inspect it, it appears the guys who wired it didn’t leave enough wire. I can’t pull out the wire cover behind the plug fire enough to loosen and slide it off..
That’s definitely an issue. Is it free on the inside? You might need to just run new wire. You could Tape new wire to the old wire and pull it through to the panel.
It doesn’t feel free while trying to remove it from rv I am met with a lot of resistance only loose enough to pull out part of the cover over the wire behind it not enough to remove it all
Yoooooo, when you get a chance, out a bead of silicone around the shore power inlet. I know it's got a gasket, but you can never be too safe, especially since you're using the same holes the original was screwed into, as those screws won't be as tight the second time around.
I have an Old 1976 Road ranger, I'm remodeling. When I rehab this Camper I have to fix the AC, and want to make sure I have enough power to run the AC, coffee pot, and a microwave ect. most I see are all 120 volt 30 amp. Will 30 amp be more than enough. So your camper is 240 volt 50 amp every 3 prong I see is for 120 volt. how is the ground getting to the cord. I only see the 3 prong, when i though your 240 would have 4 prongs.
A 30 amp setup is all you need for 1 AC unit. 50 amp is needed when you have 2 AC units or more. To answer your question. The 50 amp male plug that goes to shore power is 4 prongs. The twist on connector has 3 but the ground is a tab on the side. 30 amp x 120v is 3,600watts. And AC is 1200-1600w. Coffee pot 500-1000w. Microwave 800-1500w. Like all things you have to mind your power usage when in such a small environment but I would only do 30 amp for that smaller setup.
This is on the AC side of things. Of course with different setups you never know but generally speaking this wouldn’t do anything on the DC side it things
Nice video. Looks beautiful where you are at! I guess that loose connections can cause extra resistance which adds heat? I also realized the advantage of having a fifth wheel to pull the RV. You can drop and go! (to pick up parts, sightseeing, supplies or whatever) I know people with drivable are RV's, some tow a small car, others just bring scooters, or bikes, or nothing. I guess there's advantages to both ... but the fifth wheel option seems to have the most advantages. Thanks for the info, enjoy the journey! Robert
Great video. after a failed GFI socket replaced, breaker replaced, found our plug had melted ( was the problem all along!) Hopefully can get this done today and have power/ heat tonight.
Thank you for you're, simple instructions. I'm literally waiting for Amazon to deliver this part today. Unfortunately my original shore power plug was the one that burned out but I'm currently moochdocking so I got the 30 amp 90° dogbone 15amp adapter to connect my heavy duty extension. Next will be to try to replace the plug on my shore power cable...
This helped alot but i cant find a video on how to replace the screw on end going from shore cord which is burnt as well into that connection coming out of the camper. Any help😊
BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE TWO LONG SCREWS HOLDING IT TOGETHER ..... MARK BOTH PIECES BY WHITE MARKER OR SCRATCHING WITH A SCREW DRIVER WHERE THE SCREWS FASTEN THE TWO PIECES TOGETHER ---- IF THE MARKS LINE UP THEN THE SCREWS WILL ALIGN WITH THE SCREW HOLES
@Why Not RV last winter out in El pass ended up burning my plug and wire out using space heaters (lesson learned). One of my legs been messed up since just been putting it on the back burner decided had enough, found your video, ordered my part today, seems like a straight forward job. Saved me at least 150 bucks if not more. So thank you. Got my follow/thumbs up.
I had considered it at the time and had done a god but of research. I came to the general consensus that the connection wears out a good bit with time and you end up with a lot of heat and resistance at the same lug connection. Again, I have no personal use of it so I can’t really speak to it but that’s why I stayed away from it at the time
Thanks for the input. I got a good deal ($200) on a brand new one in the original package along with the cord but I haven’t installed it yet to try it. I can always put the original one back on if it doesn’t work out.
Having problems with connecting to shore power even if my breakers are all off it still blows 2 200 amp fuses in the main but everything works with ginny in rv the rv plug doesn't look to bad a little black in side .
Those 200 amp fuses are your DC system. So if they are blowing when you’re connecting to shore power, you might have a problem with your converter. That’s just first initial thoughts. Could be 100 different things.
Did I miss any safety comments? Just wondering if I need to disconnect the battery before doing this. Great video though. Thanks
Your battery is DC voltage. This is the AC side, unless you have an inverter improperly wired and it’s backfeeding the outlet, it’s not a concern. Please let me know if I can help any other way! Thanks for watching!!!
I would recommend to always disconnect batteries. Just as a safety precaution.
I am converting an ambulance and it has a 20amp shore power connection. I'd like to change it to 30amp. Is it as simple as switching out the connection as you have just done or will the wiring need to be changed as well? Thanks!
The wiring gauge needs to be rated for the 30 amp. Ensure it’s 10awg at least.
@@WhyNotRV thanks!
I have the same issue except the inlet on the camper when I tried to pull it out to inspect it, it appears the guys who wired it didn’t leave enough wire. I can’t pull out the wire cover behind the plug fire enough to loosen and slide it off..
That’s definitely an issue. Is it free on the inside? You might need to just run new wire. You could Tape new wire to the old wire and pull it through to the panel.
It doesn’t feel free while trying to remove it from rv I am met with a lot of resistance only loose enough to pull out part of the cover over the wire behind it not enough to remove it all
Yoooooo, when you get a chance, out a bead of silicone around the shore power inlet. I know it's got a gasket, but you can never be too safe, especially since you're using the same holes the original was screwed into, as those screws won't be as tight the second time around.
Absolutely Jaron. Great advice!
I have an Old 1976 Road ranger, I'm remodeling. When I rehab this Camper I have to fix the AC, and want to make sure I have enough power to run the AC, coffee pot, and a microwave ect. most I see are all 120 volt 30 amp. Will 30 amp be more than enough. So your camper is 240 volt 50 amp every 3 prong I see is for 120 volt. how is the ground getting to the cord. I only see the 3 prong, when i though your 240 would have 4 prongs.
A 30 amp setup is all you need for 1 AC unit. 50 amp is needed when you have 2 AC units or more. To answer your question. The 50 amp male plug that goes to shore power is 4 prongs. The twist on connector has 3 but the ground is a tab on the side. 30 amp x 120v is 3,600watts. And AC is 1200-1600w. Coffee pot 500-1000w. Microwave 800-1500w. Like all things you have to mind your power usage when in such a small environment but I would only do 30 amp for that smaller setup.
Hi. I have solar. Anything I need to do before starting this project safety wise?
This is on the AC side of things. Of course with different setups you never know but generally speaking this wouldn’t do anything on the DC side it things
@@WhyNotRVTy for the quick response 🙏🏽
Anytime!!!
Nice video. Looks beautiful where you are at!
I guess that loose connections can cause extra resistance which adds heat?
I also realized the advantage of having a fifth wheel to pull the RV.
You can drop and go! (to pick up parts, sightseeing, supplies or whatever)
I know people with drivable are RV's, some tow a small car, others just bring scooters, or bikes, or nothing.
I guess there's advantages to both ... but the fifth wheel option seems to have the most advantages.
Thanks for the info, enjoy the journey!
Robert
Thanks Robert. And yes, exactly correctly, on all statements above!
Easy to fix if you stop to get part
Correct
Did it burn out your converter
No
Nice video, I'm going to be working on this very thing, had the same exact issue that you had... And yes.. It was the 90 angle that failed.
Thank you!!! Glad this video could help!!!
Great video. after a failed GFI socket replaced, breaker replaced, found our plug had melted ( was the problem all along!) Hopefully can get this done today and have power/ heat tonight.
I hope so too!
Thank you for you're, simple instructions. I'm literally waiting for Amazon to deliver this part today. Unfortunately my original shore power plug was the one that burned out but I'm currently moochdocking so I got the 30 amp 90° dogbone 15amp adapter to connect my heavy duty extension. Next will be to try to replace the plug on my shore power cable...
Great to hear, thank you for watching.
This helped alot but i cant find a video on how to replace the screw on end going from shore cord which is burnt as well into that connection coming out of the camper. Any
help😊
BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE TWO LONG SCREWS HOLDING IT TOGETHER ..... MARK BOTH PIECES BY WHITE MARKER OR SCRATCHING WITH A SCREW DRIVER WHERE THE SCREWS FASTEN THE TWO PIECES TOGETHER ---- IF THE MARKS LINE UP THEN THE SCREWS WILL ALIGN WITH THE SCREW HOLES
Thanks for the comment!
I recommend making sure your shore inlet contacts are tightened to torque spec. Just left a meeting about shore inlet failure.
Thank you for the comment
Good to meet you Chris! Hope you get that solo stove! Kris and Ryan
Thanks!!! You both as well. It’s in the future I’m sure.
Good to meet you Chris! Hope you get that solo stove! Kris and Ryan
Thanks!!! You both as well. It’s in the future I’m sure.
Didnt bother with strain releif?
Could you elaborate? This plug has one essentially built into it…
Thanks for this!
Absolutely! Thank you for watching!!!
Hey thanks for the video same issue.
Glad I could help!!!
@Why Not RV last winter out in El pass ended up burning my plug and wire out using space heaters (lesson learned). One of my legs been messed up since just been putting it on the back burner decided had enough, found your video, ordered my part today, seems like a straight forward job. Saved me at least 150 bucks if not more. So thank you. Got my follow/thumbs up.
Have you considered installing the RV Smartplug?
I had considered it at the time and had done a god but of research. I came to the general consensus that the connection wears out a good bit with time and you end up with a lot of heat and resistance at the same lug connection. Again, I have no personal use of it so I can’t really speak to it but that’s why I stayed away from it at the time
Thanks for the input. I got a good deal ($200) on a brand new one in the original package along with the cord but I haven’t installed it yet to try it. I can always put the original one back on if it doesn’t work out.
That’s a great deal! Just make sure you make the connections nice and tight and maybe use some dielectric grease.
That’s good advice. Thanks!
Good luck with it and stay safe out there.