You'll want to hook a vacuum pump to purge the air in those lines. For example, keep the valve on the connector to the low-pressure valve on the car closed, open the blue valve on the manifold gauge and open the vac valve with vacuum pump running, it will then suck all air out of the lines that are open.
I was wondering the same thing but I noticed that you didn't do that. In fact, most DYIers probably don't own a vacuum pump. Of course,it's not an issue if they just use a can with a hose that goes directly to the low pressure port because you can bleed the line at the port but it is an issue when the refrigerant is hooked up to the manifold gauge set. Then you can purge the hose from the refrigerant can to the manifold but not the hose to the low side port without a vacuum pump. And yet it seems nobody, including you, does that. I guess I have to get a vacuum pump.
Thanks for the videos!! I watched the mustany video, but my real issue is that I have a 2018 honda clarity like yourself and have my a/c getting off an off... I'm ordered this OMT kit and some R1234yf... I'm also hoping I can just top it off like you did. Did you have any more issues with your Clarity's A/C? IF so did you just add more? or purge? or bring it to Honda, I understand they have a TSB extended warranty on A/C compressors. I would love to have instructions like the mustang video/HArbor Frieght system.... Any other thoughts if I want to purge? Where did you find the pressure to Temp/humidity values for the Clarity? THANKS!!!
I did only top off instead of purge the first time I did it half a year ago. It blowed warm air again after about 4 month. I think my AC condenser had leaks, maybe covered under Honda warranty. I plan to bring the car to dealer for warranty check on condenser. Before that I may just do a full purge and recharge with two full cans. The value was from some forum from someone posting the Honda Clarity mechanics manual
Are you sure the curved side of the hose connects to the gauge? The ad for the product shows a photo of the gauge and hoses connected different than what you say.
It really doesn't matter which end you use, depending on the application; on some vehicles or AC units, it may be easier to use a curved end for connecting to the unit. The most important factor is ensuring the connector doesn't twist itself loose during the test.
Hello, thanks for the video, very informative. I had a leak in my 2017 Sierra’s condenser like most gmc/chevy trucks do. I pulled consistent vacuum for 50 minutes. I let it sit for one hour with no changes. I add one 8 oz can of freon. It took a while 15+ minutes. I had it on a scale and watched the frozen condensation disappear. I turned off the valve at the can and added second can. The second can never got cold and did not decrease in weight. I tried a third can with the same results as the second can. Did I accidentally add air to the system changing cans? I’m puzzled. Do I have other problems? Compressor turned on and stayed on the entire time. No change in temperature on the thermostat I had mounted in the center vent even after the first can was completely empty. Minor condensation dripping from the evaporator coils. WTF did I do wrong? I used the same OMT manifold with an OMT Vacuum Pump, 4.5 cfm.
Sounds like other issue maybe present in the system, need to diagnose the system use pressure readings from the gauge: rechargeac.com/how-to/ac-system-pressure-chart/
Make sure your adding the correct weight freon for your vehicle. Don't overfill. Is your compressor working? Are your ac fans working? Check your return line to the compressor it should be cold. If everything is working properly. Fan, ac compressor, check expansion valve or orfice tube. (If your return line is cold, check your heater ac doors inside your car (modules) to make sure they are closed.
I believe what you're referring to BAR pressures are actually PSI readings.Thanks for posting this.
How do you purge the air out of the blue line. Wouldn't there be air present in the blue side also needing purged.
You'll want to hook a vacuum pump to purge the air in those lines. For example, keep the valve on the connector to the low-pressure valve on the car closed, open the blue valve on the manifold gauge and open the vac valve with vacuum pump running, it will then suck all air out of the lines that are open.
I was wondering the same thing but I noticed that you didn't do that. In fact, most DYIers probably don't own a vacuum pump. Of course,it's not an issue if they just use a can with a hose that goes directly to the low pressure port because you can bleed the line at the port but it is an issue when the refrigerant is hooked up to the manifold gauge set. Then you can purge the hose from the refrigerant can to the manifold but not the hose to the low side port without a vacuum pump. And yet it seems nobody, including you, does that. I guess I have to get a vacuum pump.
Thanks for the videos!! I watched the mustany video, but my real issue is that I have a 2018 honda clarity like yourself and have my a/c getting off an off... I'm ordered this OMT kit and some R1234yf... I'm also hoping I can just top it off like you did. Did you have any more issues with your Clarity's A/C? IF so did you just add more? or purge? or bring it to Honda, I understand they have a TSB extended warranty on A/C compressors. I would love to have instructions like the mustang video/HArbor Frieght system.... Any other thoughts if I want to purge? Where did you find the pressure to Temp/humidity values for the Clarity? THANKS!!!
I did only top off instead of purge the first time I did it half a year ago. It blowed warm air again after about 4 month. I think my AC condenser had leaks, maybe covered under Honda warranty. I plan to bring the car to dealer for warranty check on condenser. Before that I may just do a full purge and recharge with two full cans. The value was from some forum from someone posting the Honda Clarity mechanics manual
Are you sure the curved side of the hose connects to the gauge? The ad for the product shows a photo of the gauge and hoses connected different than what you say.
It really doesn't matter which end you use, depending on the application; on some vehicles or AC units, it may be easier to use a curved end for connecting to the unit. The most important factor is ensuring the connector doesn't twist itself loose during the test.
Hello, thanks for the video, very informative. I had a leak in my 2017 Sierra’s condenser like most gmc/chevy trucks do. I pulled consistent vacuum for 50 minutes. I let it sit for one hour with no changes. I add one 8 oz can of freon. It took a while 15+ minutes. I had it on a scale and watched the frozen condensation disappear. I turned off the valve at the can and added second can. The second can never got cold and did not decrease in weight. I tried a third can with the same results as the second can. Did I accidentally add air to the system changing cans? I’m puzzled. Do I have other problems? Compressor turned on and stayed on the entire time. No change in temperature on the thermostat I had mounted in the center vent even after the first can was completely empty. Minor condensation dripping from the evaporator coils. WTF did I do wrong? I used the same OMT manifold with an OMT Vacuum Pump, 4.5 cfm.
Sounds like other issue maybe present in the system, need to diagnose the system use pressure readings from the gauge: rechargeac.com/how-to/ac-system-pressure-chart/
Make sure your adding the correct weight freon for your vehicle. Don't overfill. Is your compressor working?
Are your ac fans working?
Check your return line to the compressor it should be cold.
If everything is working properly. Fan, ac compressor, check expansion valve or orfice tube.
(If your return line is cold, check your heater ac doors inside your car (modules) to make sure they are closed.
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