Fur Handling - Turning Hides Fur Out to Sell
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- There are plenty of intricacies to the fur market and how certain furs are sold. For coyotes, foxes, and bobcats that are sold fur out they must first be stretched fur in to ensure the hide dries properly and does not rot. Turning these hides back fur out isn't always an easy process but there are a few tricks that I'll show you. To learn more about trapping visit www.coyotetrappingschool.com
I have been having trouble turning hides. I'll try the string thing today. Thanks for the tip.
Another thing you can do is use a hot moist towel to wrap around the hide for a few minutes and it will help to loosen them up
Thank you chris! you always have the best, most informitive videos. keep it up!
Austin Carlson Will do. Thanks for the feedback!
Yes, spray a bit of water should work good :)
Ok thank you very much
That hide was to dry from the start, not braggen but I can turn a coyote fox or cat in less than a minute, 8 to 10 hours with a fan is long enough. Thanks for the entertainment.
That was one funny video man...especially from half way! You might want to shorten your string! Hahahaahahahahahaa
growing up in north west corner of North Dakota coyotes paid $75-$100 for a winter prime coyote in Williston North Dakota and or we could travel to WolfPoint, Montana that paid $150 for a prime coyote in the late 70's - early 1980's. Buyers didn't want skinned pelts they preferred to skin themseves. They roll coyote on its back and pull on belly hair to see if fur is prime and not before winter had set in and able to see bullet wound to tell how much of hide is usable and they didnt like shotgun kills cause the couldn't tell if you trapped as you claim. I take my coyotes and submerged them into large sink of water for about 5 minutes than put coyotes into garbage bag and throw in the freezer till I wanted to sell. I remove coyote from the freezer and lay down on floor and used a hair blower to the fur and a hair brush till fur was thawed, dry and bushy and fluffy(like a person just came from the beauty parlor.. haha). Take it to a place called Hide and Fur to sell in town. They would pull on the belly hair and not able to pull any hair out of the coyote and pay me top dollar for being winter prime coat on coyote and not shot to soon before winter has set in. Couldn't ever pull any fur from the skin because it's frozen to the body of coyote. I only blow dry the fur and leave the skin a sheet of ice and a frozen body. Looks like a fresh kill just frozen by the cold temp outside. Nice coat of very bushy fluffed up pretty as can be hair and "poof"....haha did that coyote fur look nice and thick all blown up with a fresh hairdo. Fox paid $75 each unskinned, $35 for beaver and raccoons $75 - $100 per coyote. $300 for bobcat or a links, $4.50 a unskinned muskrat but don't recall what mink paid and had sold some I had trapped. 2 guys in town would get $21k to $25k every winter season for their Fox and Coyotes taken we assumed they illegally spotlighted at night. After school me and a friend would go around outskirts of town and check our muskrat traps that paid for our gas hunting and trapping, any needed ammo, a bag of weed to smoke and/or our beer every week during the winter furbearing season was open. We decide what we need and pull the number of muskrats to sell from our frozen bank safe deposit box trunk vault on the camaro. I think it was $100 a mink unskinned was paid comes to mind but not positive.
How much does a coyote hide sell for usually?
It varies year to year as well as where you are trapping and the quality of your fur. This past year fur has been in the tank, I'm talking $5 per hide or less (some of mine went for $1), now I'm in the south and we aren't know for stellar fur but that's still super cheap. Needless to say you shouldn't get into trapping for the money! Some years you can make a little but not always.
I’ve turned a few hides but I’ve never worked this hard before. I’ll stick to the way I turn the hides this seems like it takes way to long and time consuming
That pelt was a bit dry mate, should have dampened it down a tad first!
What a laugh thank you for the amusement 👏👏👏👏
Some of those are rough to turn! I let a couple go too far the other day and had to wet 'em down with a washcloth before I could turn 'em! LOL! Later buddy!
That's the worst! Man I hate it when they are hard to turn
They make metal stretchers dude. Will make your life a lot easier
It's alot the easier to flip it inside out like a sock off the board, you can also dampin the hide to make it easier to flip, also push the thin part of belly wedge through the mouth so the the widest part is on the mouth end, the pelt will slide right off.
Never thought about flipping the wedge around through the mouth, thats genius! (I know I'm way late on replying to this, sorry!)
Thanks for the tips and tricks very helpful
Thanks for the video, I live in a very dry climate does that change anything also is it necessary to flesh the hide?
Its all basically the same, but your hides may dry a little quicker, which for foxes and bobcats that you have to turn you might have to keep a closer eye on them. It is necessary to flesh the hides, although some hides need minimal fleshing, namely foxes and bobcats usually don't need much, you just need to make sure any flesh or fat is removed from the hide.
Lol. I was tired just from watching you wrestle that booger. I can't wait to get my first coyote and go through all that! I do have a wire coyote stretcher though so I may have to make a hybrid version with wood too.
Wrestled 1 this evening too, wasn't too bad but wasn't super easy. Coyotes are pretty tough skinned, but grey foxes will tear really easily, got to be super careful with them
Good video, I always use wire because I feel like the hair on the pelt is getting pushed down on wood idk
Pretty much it all boils down to personal preference. They both work just fine
Why not use wire stretchers with a belly board, hair out and avoid all that extra work?
You can if you're careful. You have to make sure none of the skin is touching, or else that spot won't dry and it'll slip. I've tried all kinds of ways to avoid having to turn the hide but something usually goes wrong and I wished I just started fur in
how's the best way to store furs if your not selling a years catch I had a slow year trapping and not going to sell this year what is the best way to store furs till I sell
+M&C Outdoors The most important thing is you want to keep bugs and water away from your furs. Through the summer putting them in a freezer isn't a bad idea to keep bugs away. I did that this past year. Here's a link to a great article on fur storage trappingtoday.com/long-term-fur-storage/ I like his idea of using the large vacuum bags for storing fur in the freezer. I think I'll be doing that in the future. Hope this helps!
What is the difference between tanning my rabbit hides (in salt & aluminum sulfate) and your way of preparing hides for market? Is there a difference? Thank you
Cyndi Daves yes, hides that are stretched and dried for the fur market are just that, fleshed, stretched, and dried. They are treated or preserved in any way. They will keep for several months or more if you keep bugs and moisture away but they still require tanning to be made into a finished product
Coyote Trapping School can you explain the tanning process to me? thanks
I did mean to day "they are NOT treated or preserved in any way" There are a variety of different processes and chemicals that can be used, I've experimented with tanning but an by no means an expert. I've used Lutan before, there are several steps that are involved with most tanning including salting, pickling, degreasing, shaving, neutralizing, and the actual tanning chemical you use. For some in depth reading on tanning i would recommend checking out the tanning forum on taxidermy.net. A wealth of knowledge and you could read for hours on probably way more than you ever wanted to know about tanning. Hope this helps
I've seen a few guys on RUclips using a pressure washer to flesh hides and then clean the fur. Have you tried this?
Sure have take a look at this video
ruclips.net/video/M0gjZNErfJQ/видео.html
Is it okay to use on coyotes or raccoons?
Yep, just pay close attention as they don't need as much work as a beaver and you can cut or pull the hair through the hide easier
What are the dimensions for the belly board?
I just use a scrap board that is wedge shaped. You don't want it too big, I'd say 3" max and tapered from there
talk about to complicate the crap out off turning the skin fur side out ??
Yeah, if you wait to long it sure makes it a hastle