Generally when you get a cloudy brown solution working with iron salts, you've made iron hydroxide. Iron salts like to decompose to the hydroxide or oxide easily, and heat would accelerate this. You could try slow evaporation instead. Your steel might possibly have extra impurities in it that could interfere.
Yes this is my house. I actually turned one of my spare bedrooms into a dedicated lab! If you don't have a separate lab space, it's probably best to do your experiments outside (and for many experiments, it's required anyway). I'd strongly advise against keeping chemicals in the same room that you sleep in. See if you can set aside a work space in your garage, maybe.
@mitpatterson Yep, and that's all you need! I recommend you do it outside, because mine smelled really bad while it was dissolving. This method is a great way to make your own PCB etchant for much cheaper than buying it. After you leave the green iron(II) out and it's fully converted to brown iron(III), it's ready to etch!
I too had some steel wool and had it soaking in hydrogen peroxide. Upon the addition of HCl it turned dark amber in color, adding more HCl the solution turned to a bright yellow color and was rather exothermic (>150F) and placed it outside in the cold (near freezing temps) and left it for apx. 30 min... to my surprise it turned completely clear. Upon the addition of 35% hydrogen peroxide it turned amber in color and I'm convinced it was Iron(III) chloride. What state gives it a clear color?? On a side note, it is night here.
so I had steel wool, a test tube, and some HCl. I mixed it up and added ~4drops H2O2. it browned the surface of the steel wool and immediately turned a light light green. but it was bubbling so I left it outside. 20 min later. it is clear and most of the iron was already digested. but it went absolutely clear??? no yellow, green, brown and no ppt. at bottom. does dirrect sun light prevent it. well geuss I will know shortly, but any how wondering why such an easy rxn went wrong
@Jamal418 That happened to me too when I used a stainless steel scrubbing pad. The type of iron seems to make a difference, and I'd wager that it's the other alloyed metals that do this - nickel and chromium chlorides are dark green. Try to find the most iron-looking steel wool, and avoid anything stainless.
@Gta2CubanPete You're right about the crystals, it's near impossible to keep nice green iron(II) crystals without them oxidizing (from what I hear). I'd try putting it in mineral oil to keep it away from oxygen, like you would for sodium. I'm going to use mine to make ferrofluid in my next video, so I'm just going to use the solutions directly. Thanks for the comment, and good luck with your own synthesis!
@GiorgioCapocasa Yes I've heard of that before too. That should work! Eventually though, you will get a large volume of etching solution as you continue to dilute it when you regenerate with acid (usually 32%) and peroxide (usually 3%). 30% peroxide would be better, so you're not adding as much water. It might be cheaper to just throw it away and buy new though, depending on what your reagents cost. Good luck!
@8787cole It depends on what type of etchant you use. The most common one just simply is iron(III) chloride solution, so if you have that you can just use my method at the end of the video to make your iron(II).
i used 33% hydrochloric acid. after dissolving the steel wool the liquid end up with a strong green. neither my ferrous nor my ferric chloride look like yours shown in the vid. where is the problem?
Thanks for the upload, Iron(III)chloride is one of the solutions I need to make to detect bisphenol, as you may know this stuff is almost everywhere in plastics.
Or... buy some red iron oxide (Fe2O3) for a couple dollars a pound; much cheaper than steel wool. Add the HCl; you'll get iron(iii) chloride only, no hydrogen gas, and no impurities to filter out. You won't need peroxide either. Also, iron filings are cheaper than steel wool as well, and react faster. You can use them in your iron(iii) chloride to get the iron(ii) chloride.
muriatic acid is far cheaper than ferric chloride PCB etchant. So i do not see why you would want to. Muriatic acid only runs about 12USD a gallon vs 12USD a liter for ferric chloride, i know alot of PCB designers who use CuCI2 in the place of ferric chloride for simple designs. Because muriatic acid and 3% H2O2 is alot cheaper.
Yeah, thats exactly what i was using. Now i bought some 00 superfine steelwool which seems to be the right stuff since it produces the the nice green solution shown in the vid (besides a real bad smell and a bunch of garbage)
Hey, did adding the HCl to the steel wool smell terrible? I just did this and it turns out that some sulfur impurities in the steel wool cause H2S to form, which sucks... lol
I would describe the "green yellow" color as Chartreuse. i guess because im a fisherman. and chartreuse is a highly popular color in baits. nice video, i learned the science and you learned the color! i learn something every day.
I made a dry mix of Fe(II)Cl3.6h2o and but it turns out I needed Fe(III)Cl3. I knew it going forwards with the mix, as my lab didn't seem to have Fe(III)Cl3. I followed a recipe, that was for some cell cultures. @mrhomescientist Would you suggest just let the mix get some air to become Fe(III)Cl3 once in water? My mix is acidic. Fe(III)Cl3 would just be a micro component for the growth media. Edit: did you try to crystallize the Fe(III)Cl3 you made in the video? I assume it's molarity would be easier to calculate going from dry form back to hydrated form.
hi, my steelwool took 5 days to dissolve, but I got a very concentrated deep green solution, then i added oxigen peroxide and i got a very violent bubbling reaction so i kept putting more on, it turned into a dark yellow-red solution but a single drop looked yellow, i wanted to concentrate it and tryied boiling the water off but the solution turned cloudy and brown. did i just made some iron oxide? is it reversible? thanks.
with hardware grade it also turned black for me, because of the carbon, just filter it and you'll get a nice clear deep green solution, i hope that works for you too anyway
I'm preparing a demo for chemistry class, and I was wondering if oxalic acid is able to reduce iron(III) back to iron(II). Since I don't have any oxalic acid, I can't test this out myself. Also, does iron make a complex with oxalate and stay in solution, or does it precipitate?
I took a lot of chem in college years ago, and my logic said something was wrong. yep yep yep. unlabeled recycled H2O2 container sitting on shelf. had Cu solution in it. that was what coated the iron first and made it look like it was rusting. plated then ate it. ha ha. knew something was off
Yeah, thats exactly what i was using. Now i bought some 00 superfine steelwool which seems to be the right stuff since it produces the the nice green solution shown in the vid (besides a real bad smell and a bunch of garbage)
+Patty Baker Iron(II) and iron(III) chloride are different things, as the video shows. Iron(III) (ferric) compounds can be combined with ferrocyanide to make Prussian Blue. Ferricyanide (note the difference in name) instead reacts with iron(II) (ferrous) compounds to make the same color. So it all depends on what you have.
Can you comment on the uses of ferric chloride to make PCB etching solution? I have made ferric chloride before, but I'm curious if there is a way to neutralize it after you exhaust its etching capacity? I have etched a bunch of circuits so my solution is now FeCl2+FeCl3+CuCl2 and water. I want to either remove the copper to reuse the etching solution or somehow neutralize it for disposal down the drain. It is illegal to dump ferric chloride down the drain so any thoughts would be great! Thanks!
Nice! The final iron(II) or (III)chloride is probably a little green from copper impurities. Hardware store HCl is also often a little yellow/green because of iron and copper impurities. The iron wool might also have some copper in it, but that I'm not sure. What are you going to do with the end products? Make some crystals perhaps? Iron(II)chloride will be difficult to make in a crystal, because of oxidizing. I might try it one day, got suggestions/idea's how to tackle it?
What is the reaction equation of producing Iron(II)-chloride solution from Iron(III)-chloride solution? 2FeCl3 + Fe = 3FeCl2 It is correct? I think that the Iron(II)-Chloride are generated by the pure Iron oxidizing with Iron(III)-chloride. But please correct me if I wrong!
I think like might be radioactive has highy dense Iron(4)Netronic blocking Iron like Heavy Water(Delirium) theoretical could be use with chromium for high energy retractions
Thank you, mr scientist (: If I'm going to dissolve copper with it, the salt will reduce and Cu+ will be in solution. Will I be able to convert the salt to FeCl3 again by filtering the product and adding HCl and H2O2 or would it be better to neutralize it and throw it away? Sorry if I'm using improper words, but I've studied Chemistry only in Italian (and only for one year).
Hi, Mr.Homescientist, I've an enquiry, iron (II) Chloride is unstable in the air. But how is the storage time/ shelf life for Iron (II) chloride before it convert to Iron (III) Chloride?? Appreciate if you can advise. thanks.
I've heard that if it is dry and stored in a tightly sealed bottle, iron(II) has a pretty good shelf life. It's pretty tough to keep iron(III) from forming though, so it's probably best to make it as you need it!
Jamesioso Ho It's hard to say. You'd need to do a sort of titration on a sample of the solution, perhaps by adding a hydroxide and weighing the iron hydroxide produced. Then you could go back and calculate how much iron chloride must have been present originally.
Hello, I want to prepare ferrofluid. I got Iron III chloride powdered but I want to prepare Iron II chloride. Is it ok if I diluted the iron III chloride in water and then mixed it with iron II chloride prepared as the video?
Sabrás alguna manera sencilla de hacer fe3o4? Este oxido es fabuloso por ser reversible su estado de oxidacion, por ende es excelente para hacer baterias. O me equivoco? regards ;)
Hi nice video thank you. I have made a iron electroplating bath using iron sulphate + ammonium sulphate and hcl. It is a pale green/white coloured solution. Does it make sense that this would be iron2 chloride?
When in solution, things are really more of a soup of ions than individual compounds. So yes, there's iron(II) and chloride in there, but it doesn't "settle out" into a specific compound until you crystalize it. Then what comes out would depend on the solubilities of all the possible combinations of ions.
have you ever tried making titanium chloride? I am able to get a very very dark purple solution by boiling hcl with titanium in it. It never seems to crystalize though. You can cook it down forever and all it ever does is get dramatically thicker but crystals will not form. Ay ideas?
When you let the steel wool react with the HCl did you cover the beaker? If yes, then will the H2 gas be able to leave? If not then won't it oxidize? Or do you cover it in between? Thanks!!
Patience! There is no need to cover it; this has no impact on the reaction. I suppose if you wanted it absolutely free of Fe(III) you'd want to exclude air, but for my purposes I didn't need to do that. I placed a watch glass over the beaker simply to reduce acid fumes and bad smells from dissolving iron escaping.
Sir/Ma'am/Sirs/Madams, In a video by the youtuber "ThScience - Science Videos" (called "Making BLOOD the chemical way! Lots of cool effects!"), he used a form of iron (III) chloride that was solid and dissolved it in water. Do you know how to make the solid iron (III) chloride? (distillation)? Or why this looks different than his? (the water)?
As with any other salt in solution, evaporating the water will yield solid crystals of the substance. He started with the pure solid iron chloride, and I made it in solution via chemical reaction. Different paths to the same result.
Need help!I had a messed up reaction happen to me. actually two. I was doing nerdrage method of making copper sulfate by electrolysis using a weak solution of sulfuric acid as an electrolyte. It worked so good that I was getting large crystals forming right as the reaction was finishing up! They were clumped together and when I was filter I tossed a small amount of DI water on them to loosen them up! The crystals in the small amount of solution turned instantly black! I added a little more and it started to turn like blue and white crystals started to form. *size of salt* I put it on the heat to losen everyting up and everything turned e emerald green! I have about 100ml of deep emerald green solution that SHOULD have been copper sulfate.. DO you have ANY idea what happened? I have a large amount of uncontaminated copper sulfate set aside as I had already filtered most of it I also had a Iron Chloride mishap where I had to leave the reaction and it cooked down to a solid red mass. I added equal parts of water and HCL and it seem to have come back.
I've never heard of that before. Sounds like a lot of weird changes for such a simple experiment. If you can repeat it and make a video or take photos, that would make a very interesting experiment. Make sure you use distilled water, clean copper electrodes, and don't let the voltage and current go too high.
Yup low and slow is the best for sure. I think that I may have dumped a tiny amount of HCLon the extra crystals by mistake. STUPID i know I have them in the same 90ml brown bottles. The strange thing is that over 2 days it slowly turned back to blue. so now I don't know what to do with it. Maybe the sulfate crystals worked off the hcl? I might allow it to crystallise a few time to see what i get. I wont be able to use it for its intended purpose unfortunately
On another note , I am designing a chemical rack In CAD that requires that I place a wooden dowel in a slot to release the chemical bottle that I need. No more mishaps.!!!
Clown Whisper HCl would explain the green color, but the rest is still a mystery. Recrystallize your blue copper sulfate crystals a few times and they will be quite pure.
Yeah its sort of starang for sure. I might have explained it bad too. So basically I was filtering of the Copper sulfate. When I got toward the bottom of the flask that I used for the electrolysis I noticed that there were some crystals that had already formed. So I thought to myself that I should add a few ml of water to loosen them up ,as I plan to evaporate the whole thing anyway. So when I added what I though was water everything turned BLACK as ink. I said out loud.."wtf?" and I set it up on a heating corning stir plate and added what i thought was again a little more water. It almost instantly started to turn from Black to green. and then very deep emerald green. RIght now im trying to figure out how the black occured and why in several days it turned back to its typical sulfate blue..
do you ever take any requests on instructional videos? If so,I would be very interested in a clip on how to make lysergic acid diethylamide...just let me know,I'm positive there would be a huge audience....thx
Iron 4 is difficult to make. As far as I know it exists only as a special case, for example in some type of perovskites, because of charge compensation, it can turn to +4
Dave Cossairt nope. i certainly don't. if hydrogen peroxide isn't an option, and you have pure oxygen laying around, by all means make a video of your results and share it. I find dollar store hydrogen peroxide works just fine, so that's what I'll use.
Timothy Raquet I have completed this process already biggest tip a.use a hose that you don't mind tossing after complete or saving for stuff like this b. had to do it out side, I set the containment vessel in a snow bank (I live in alaska probably the only advantage of live here lol) then piped pure oxygen into the mixture. rapidly the color changed and it began to off-gas very profusely. in a fume hood I feel it would be easy to have complications if your system is not adequate enugh to vent copious amounts of gas
If you add iron to your solution, the redox-reaction should be: CuCl2 + Fe → FeCl2 + Cu You should see copper forming on the iron. For disposal add baking soda. Do this in a large container, fill it with 1/8 or 1/12 (to be sure) of your solution. It will create a big rusty-looking foam, about 7-10x the volume of the original ingredients. Keep adding soda until you see no reaction anymore. Check members.optusnet.com.au/~eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html helpfull?
+mrhomescientist okay thank you! I'm doing a project about iron (II) chloride and I have to come up with three uses it had and one of them is dye but I have to know how/what or why. but thank you.
Generally when you get a cloudy brown solution working with iron salts, you've made iron hydroxide. Iron salts like to decompose to the hydroxide or oxide easily, and heat would accelerate this. You could try slow evaporation instead. Your steel might possibly have extra impurities in it that could interfere.
Yes this is my house. I actually turned one of my spare bedrooms into a dedicated lab! If you don't have a separate lab space, it's probably best to do your experiments outside (and for many experiments, it's required anyway). I'd strongly advise against keeping chemicals in the same room that you sleep in. See if you can set aside a work space in your garage, maybe.
It's just a regular old coffee filter! Use 3 or 4 if your precipitate is very fine.
@mitpatterson Yep, and that's all you need! I recommend you do it outside, because mine smelled really bad while it was dissolving. This method is a great way to make your own PCB etchant for much cheaper than buying it. After you leave the green iron(II) out and it's fully converted to brown iron(III), it's ready to etch!
I too had some steel wool and had it soaking in hydrogen peroxide. Upon the addition of HCl it turned dark amber in color, adding more HCl the solution turned to a bright yellow color and was rather exothermic (>150F) and placed it outside in the cold (near freezing temps) and left it for apx. 30 min... to my surprise it turned completely clear. Upon the addition of 35% hydrogen peroxide it turned amber in color and I'm convinced it was Iron(III) chloride. What state gives it a clear color?? On a side note, it is night here.
verry nice syntesis
so I had steel wool, a test tube, and some HCl. I mixed it up and added ~4drops H2O2. it browned the surface of the steel wool and immediately turned a light light green. but it was bubbling so I left it outside. 20 min later. it is clear and most of the iron was already digested. but it went absolutely clear??? no yellow, green, brown and no ppt. at bottom. does dirrect sun light prevent it. well geuss I will know shortly, but any how wondering why such an easy rxn went wrong
I have 34° baumé hydrochloric acid, what is the percentage of it??? With the temperature =25°C.
@Jamal418 That happened to me too when I used a stainless steel scrubbing pad. The type of iron seems to make a difference, and I'd wager that it's the other alloyed metals that do this - nickel and chromium chlorides are dark green. Try to find the most iron-looking steel wool, and avoid anything stainless.
@Gta2CubanPete You're right about the crystals, it's near impossible to keep nice green iron(II) crystals without them oxidizing (from what I hear). I'd try putting it in mineral oil to keep it away from oxygen, like you would for sodium. I'm going to use mine to make ferrofluid in my next video, so I'm just going to use the solutions directly. Thanks for the comment, and good luck with your own synthesis!
@GiorgioCapocasa Yes I've heard of that before too. That should work! Eventually though, you will get a large volume of etching solution as you continue to dilute it when you regenerate with acid (usually 32%) and peroxide (usually 3%). 30% peroxide would be better, so you're not adding as much water. It might be cheaper to just throw it away and buy new though, depending on what your reagents cost. Good luck!
@8787cole It depends on what type of etchant you use. The most common one just simply is iron(III) chloride solution, so if you have that you can just use my method at the end of the video to make your iron(II).
i used 33% hydrochloric acid. after dissolving the steel wool the liquid end up with a strong green. neither my ferrous nor my ferric chloride look like yours shown in the vid. where is the problem?
Hardware store muriatic acid is about 9.5M (or at least, the jug I bought was - there's probably some variation between batches).
Thanks for the upload, Iron(III)chloride is one of the solutions I need to make to detect bisphenol, as you may know this stuff is almost everywhere in plastics.
Or... buy some red iron oxide (Fe2O3) for a couple dollars a pound; much cheaper than steel wool. Add the HCl; you'll get iron(iii) chloride only, no hydrogen gas, and no impurities to filter out. You won't need peroxide either. Also, iron filings are cheaper than steel wool as well, and react faster. You can use them in your iron(iii) chloride to get the iron(ii) chloride.
Chad Howarth No this is the chemical equation
Fe2O3 + HCl -> FeCl3 + H2O
So Add HCl to Fe2O3 it will create FeCl3 and water
muriatic acid is far cheaper than ferric chloride PCB etchant. So i do not see why you would want to. Muriatic acid only runs about 12USD a gallon vs 12USD a liter for ferric chloride, i know alot of PCB designers who use CuCI2 in the place of ferric chloride for simple designs. Because muriatic acid and 3% H2O2 is alot cheaper.
Sure, if you want crystals. FeCl2 is much harder, because it easily reacts with air to change to iron(III).
Great Mr home sc
Yeah, thats exactly what i was using. Now i bought some 00 superfine steelwool which seems to be the right stuff since it produces the the nice green solution shown in the vid (besides a real bad smell and a bunch of garbage)
@CampbellChemistry See my other video "Make Ferrofluid" - I use both of them in the synthesis!
Hey, did adding the HCl to the steel wool smell terrible? I just did this and it turns out that some sulfur impurities in the steel wool cause H2S to form, which sucks... lol
@mrhomescientist can i put excess HCl to make sure it all reacts or will that mess up my reaction when i try to make ferrofluid?
cool vid, what is ferric or ferrous chloride used for?
how to make 1molar of Fe(II) Chloride by your method? How much quantity of iron and hcl required
I would describe the "green yellow" color as Chartreuse.
i guess because im a fisherman. and chartreuse is a highly popular color in baits.
nice video, i learned the science and you learned the color! i learn something every day.
I made a dry mix of Fe(II)Cl3.6h2o and but it turns out I needed Fe(III)Cl3. I knew it going forwards with the mix, as my lab didn't seem to have Fe(III)Cl3. I followed a recipe, that was for some cell cultures.
@mrhomescientist Would you suggest just let the mix get some air to become Fe(III)Cl3 once in water? My mix is acidic. Fe(III)Cl3 would just be a micro component for the growth media.
Edit: did you try to crystallize the Fe(III)Cl3 you made in the video? I assume it's molarity would be easier to calculate going from dry form back to hydrated form.
How to make 10ml aqous solution of iron chloride
hi, my steelwool took 5 days to dissolve, but I got a very concentrated deep green solution, then i added oxigen peroxide and i got a very violent bubbling reaction so i kept putting more on, it turned into a dark yellow-red solution but a single drop looked yellow, i wanted to concentrate it and tryied boiling the water off but the solution turned cloudy and brown. did i just made some iron oxide? is it reversible? thanks.
with hardware grade it also turned black for me, because of the carbon, just filter it and you'll get a nice clear deep green solution, i hope that works for you too anyway
I'm preparing a demo for chemistry class, and I was wondering if oxalic acid is able to reduce iron(III) back to iron(II). Since I don't have any oxalic acid, I can't test this out myself.
Also, does iron make a complex with oxalate and stay in solution, or does it precipitate?
I took a lot of chem in college years ago, and my logic said something was wrong. yep yep yep. unlabeled recycled H2O2 container sitting on shelf. had Cu solution in it. that was what coated the iron first and made it look like it was rusting. plated then ate it. ha ha. knew something was off
Yeah, thats exactly what i was using. Now i bought some 00 superfine steelwool which seems to be the right stuff since it produces the the nice green solution shown in the vid (besides a real bad smell and a bunch of garbage)
is iron to chloride the same as iron chloride? Can this be added to Potassium ferrocyanide to make a blue dye?
+Patty Baker Iron(II) and iron(III) chloride are different things, as the video shows. Iron(III) (ferric) compounds can be combined with ferrocyanide to make Prussian Blue. Ferricyanide (note the difference in name) instead reacts with iron(II) (ferrous) compounds to make the same color. So it all depends on what you have.
I use iron 2 oxide made by electrolysis . Works fine
Can you comment on the uses of ferric chloride to make PCB etching solution? I have made ferric chloride before, but I'm curious if there is a way to neutralize it after you exhaust its etching capacity? I have etched a bunch of circuits so my solution is now FeCl2+FeCl3+CuCl2 and water. I want to either remove the copper to reuse the etching solution or somehow neutralize it for disposal down the drain. It is illegal to dump ferric chloride down the drain so any thoughts would be great! Thanks!
Nice!
The final iron(II) or (III)chloride is probably a little green from copper impurities. Hardware store HCl is also often a little yellow/green because of iron and copper impurities. The iron wool might also have some copper in it, but that I'm not sure.
What are you going to do with the end products? Make some crystals perhaps? Iron(II)chloride will be difficult to make in a crystal, because of oxidizing. I might try it one day, got suggestions/idea's how to tackle it?
What is the reaction equation of producing Iron(II)-chloride solution from Iron(III)-chloride solution?
2FeCl3 + Fe = 3FeCl2
It is correct? I think that the Iron(II)-Chloride are generated by the pure Iron oxidizing with Iron(III)-chloride. But please correct me if I wrong!
I think like might be radioactive has highy dense Iron(4)Netronic blocking Iron like Heavy Water(Delirium) theoretical could be use with chromium for high energy retractions
Thank you, mr scientist (:
If I'm going to dissolve copper with it, the salt will reduce and Cu+ will be in solution.
Will I be able to convert the salt to FeCl3 again by filtering the product and adding HCl and H2O2 or would it be better to neutralize it and throw it away?
Sorry if I'm using improper words, but I've studied Chemistry only in Italian (and only for one year).
Hi. I got from school 76% of HCl. I tryied with this stuff, and all turned in black. Shall I need to make it 33% using distilled water? Thanks
Hi, Mr.Homescientist,
I've an enquiry, iron (II) Chloride is unstable in the air. But how is the storage time/ shelf life for Iron (II) chloride before it convert to Iron (III) Chloride??
Appreciate if you can advise.
thanks.
I've heard that if it is dry and stored in a tightly sealed bottle, iron(II) has a pretty good shelf life. It's pretty tough to keep iron(III) from forming though, so it's probably best to make it as you need it!
If you have the HCI sitting around just use H2o2 and HCI, its alot cheaper then feci3 and the byproduct of cuci2 can also be used as a etchant
so iron (III) chloride is also know as ferric chloride, so can that be used to etch PCB's then?or does more need done to it?
How long it takes ton takes by
How would you determine the molarity of the solutions you made?
Jamesioso Ho It's hard to say. You'd need to do a sort of titration on a sample of the solution, perhaps by adding a hydroxide and weighing the iron hydroxide produced. Then you could go back and calculate how much iron chloride must have been present originally.
Holy-Terrorist:>*=* Sorry, i dont know stuff to compare iron dichloride[FeCl2] and iron trichloride[FeCl3].
Hello, I want to prepare ferrofluid. I got Iron III chloride powdered but I want to prepare Iron II chloride. Is it ok if I diluted the iron III chloride in water and then mixed it with iron II chloride prepared as the video?
how many hours this this take to produce them both?
+Suraya Sewsahai Does*
This was a while ago, but I think not more than an hour for each step. Heating the solutions would of course speed things up a bit if you need to.
Thank you for replying! :)
My solution turns green instead of yellow. Does your sulution have hydrochloric acid left or is there something else changing the colour?
@mrhomescientist Why does oxygen make the reaction faster? Is it only with Iron?
Similar to all chlorides I guess. Adding the elemental metal to chloride reduces oxidation state.
+mrhomescientist if you could help me with my question below that would be great
Does iron (iii) chloride react with aluminum to produce metallic iron/ iron (ii) oxide?
It should, aluminum is more reactive. It does form a protective oxide layer, though, so the reaction might take a bit to get going.
Sabrás alguna manera sencilla de hacer fe3o4? Este oxido es fabuloso por ser reversible su estado de oxidacion, por ende es excelente para hacer baterias.
O me equivoco?
regards ;)
i find your demo very interesting . at least my chemistry student would be inspired to see the vids here .
FeCl2 is green(ish) and ferric chloride (FeCl3) is brown.
Is there a way to go back to iron? From iron 2 or iron 3 chloride?
Sure. You could convert it to iron oxide and do a thermite reaction!
GREAT VIDEO
where do you get your filter paper ?
Hi nice video thank you. I have made a iron electroplating bath using iron sulphate + ammonium sulphate and hcl. It is a pale green/white coloured solution. Does it make sense that this would be iron2 chloride?
When in solution, things are really more of a soup of ions than individual compounds. So yes, there's iron(II) and chloride in there, but it doesn't "settle out" into a specific compound until you crystalize it. Then what comes out would depend on the solubilities of all the possible combinations of ions.
have you ever tried making titanium chloride?
I am able to get a very very dark purple solution by boiling hcl with titanium in it.
It never seems to crystalize though. You can cook it down forever and all it ever does is get dramatically thicker but crystals will not form.
Ay ideas?
Clown Whisper most like not pure or partical are not ground tighter
or too much buffer solution, blocking
i can not fine hcl anywhere!!!!! only thing i finding i can find is sodium hydroxide based cleaners!!!!
its pissing me off!!
Look for muriatic acid. It's the archaic name for hydrochloric acid. For some reason hardware stores still use the old name.
When you let the steel wool react with the HCl did you cover the beaker? If yes, then will the H2 gas be able to leave? If not then won't it oxidize? Or do you cover it in between? Thanks!!
Patience! There is no need to cover it; this has no impact on the reaction. I suppose if you wanted it absolutely free of Fe(III) you'd want to exclude air, but for my purposes I didn't need to do that. I placed a watch glass over the beaker simply to reduce acid fumes and bad smells from dissolving iron escaping.
which concentration has the hcl?
Sir/Ma'am/Sirs/Madams,
In a video by the youtuber "ThScience - Science Videos" (called "Making BLOOD the chemical way! Lots of cool effects!"), he used a form of iron (III) chloride that was solid and dissolved it in water. Do you know how to make the solid iron (III) chloride? (distillation)? Or why this looks different than his? (the water)?
As with any other salt in solution, evaporating the water will yield solid crystals of the substance. He started with the pure solid iron chloride, and I made it in solution via chemical reaction. Different paths to the same result.
mrhomescientist is that how they make powdered alcohol
cool
Need help!I had a messed up reaction happen to me. actually two.
I was doing nerdrage method of making copper sulfate by electrolysis using a weak solution of sulfuric acid as an electrolyte. It worked so good that I was getting large crystals forming right as the reaction was finishing up!
They were clumped together and when I was filter I tossed a small amount of DI water on them to loosen them up!
The crystals in the small amount of solution turned instantly black! I added a little more and it started to turn like blue and white crystals started to form. *size of salt* I put it on the heat to losen everyting up and everything turned e emerald green! I have about 100ml of deep emerald green solution that SHOULD have been copper sulfate..
DO you have ANY idea what happened? I have a large amount of uncontaminated copper sulfate set aside as I had already filtered most of it
I also had a Iron Chloride mishap where I had to leave the reaction and it cooked down to a solid red mass.
I added equal parts of water and HCL and it seem to have come back.
I've never heard of that before. Sounds like a lot of weird changes for such a simple experiment. If you can repeat it and make a video or take photos, that would make a very interesting experiment. Make sure you use distilled water, clean copper electrodes, and don't let the voltage and current go too high.
Yup low and slow is the best for sure.
I think that I may have dumped a tiny amount of HCLon the extra crystals by mistake.
STUPID i know I have them in the same 90ml brown bottles.
The strange thing is that over 2 days it slowly turned back to blue. so now I don't know what to do with it.
Maybe the sulfate crystals worked off the hcl?
I might allow it to crystallise a few time to see what i get.
I wont be able to use it for its intended purpose unfortunately
On another note , I am designing a chemical rack In CAD that requires that I place a wooden dowel in a slot to release the chemical bottle that I need. No more mishaps.!!!
Clown Whisper HCl would explain the green color, but the rest is still a mystery. Recrystallize your blue copper sulfate crystals a few times and they will be quite pure.
Yeah its sort of starang for sure.
I might have explained it bad too.
So basically I was filtering of the Copper sulfate. When I got toward the bottom of the flask that I used for the electrolysis I noticed that there were some crystals that had already formed. So I thought to myself that I should add a few ml of water to loosen them up ,as I plan to evaporate the whole thing anyway.
So when I added what I though was water everything turned BLACK as ink. I said out loud.."wtf?" and I set it up on a heating corning stir plate and added what i thought was again a little more water. It almost instantly started to turn from Black to green. and then very deep emerald green. RIght now im trying to figure out how the black occured and why in several days it turned back to its typical sulfate blue..
Thx for the fast answer ^^ .
ur awesome dude
Can we eveporate the Water of the solution FeCl3 ?
Yep
Is it possible make FeCl2 from Fe2O3 +HCl?
Yes that works too.
do you ever take any requests on instructional videos? If so,I would be very interested in a clip on how to make lysergic acid diethylamide...just let me know,I'm positive there would be a huge audience....thx
+Donkey Teeth lol no thanks.
Ok...if u get bored n change your mind...😉
+Donkey Teeth I won't.
You never know...
شكرا شكرا شكرا
how do you make experimental Iron(4)
Iron 4 is difficult to make. As far as I know it exists only as a special case, for example in some type of perovskites, because of charge compensation, it can turn to +4
What concentration is the HCl?
Lukas Bieliauskas Standard hardware store acid, about 28% or 9.5M if I remember right.
What camera are you using?
+Marina Nieto At the time, an Insignia camcorder. Now I use a Nikon Coolpix L610, but I'd like to upgrade again in the future.
why not percolate pure oxygen into the Iron (II) to get the iron (III) Chloride faster?
Dave Cossairt because home chemists don't keep pure oxygen on hand. store bought hydrogen peroxide, however, is a household item.
Timothy Raquet so most people don't have an oxy acetylene torch?
Dave Cossairt nope. i certainly don't. if hydrogen peroxide isn't an option, and you have pure oxygen laying around, by all means make a video of your results and share it. I find dollar store hydrogen peroxide works just fine, so that's what I'll use.
Timothy Raquet I have completed this process already biggest tip a.use a hose that you don't mind tossing after complete or saving for stuff like this b. had to do it out side, I set the containment vessel in a snow bank (I live in alaska probably the only advantage of live here lol)
then piped pure oxygen into the mixture.
rapidly the color changed and it began to off-gas very profusely.
in a fume hood I feel it would be easy to have complications if your system is not adequate enugh to vent copious amounts of gas
Dave Cossairt very interesting. I might try this if I ever have the right set up.
If you add iron to your solution, the redox-reaction should be:
CuCl2 + Fe → FeCl2 + Cu
You should see copper forming on the iron. For disposal add baking soda. Do this in a large container, fill it with 1/8 or 1/12 (to be sure) of your solution. It will create a big rusty-looking foam, about 7-10x the volume of the original ingredients. Keep adding soda until you see no reaction anymore. Check
members.optusnet.com.au/~eseychell/PCB/etching_CuCl/index.html
helpfull?
how did you analyze Fe(II) and Fe(III)? and do you know how to regenerate FeCl2 from FeCl3 water solution?
I didn't do any analysis beyond looking at the solution's color. I describe in the video how to regenerate FeCl2 from FeCl3.
what kind of dye is iron (II) chloride in?
+Hailey Duncan None as far as I know. It would oxidize to iron(III) over time and turn brown, so it'd make a pretty poor dye.
+mrhomescientist okay thank you! I'm doing a project about iron (II) chloride and I have to come up with three uses it had and one of them is dye but I have to know how/what or why. but thank you.
Use nails, rusty works better.