I used that method on an irreplaceable petrol tank for a classic motorcycle. It was rusted on the inside. To finish the job I used a kit from POR15. That entailed a rust-eating flush and clean followed by swilling round an epoxy-like sealing coat. Absolutely beautiful finish, like brand new. In addition its proof against the contaminated corrosive swill that’s peddled as petrol nowadays. Not the right kit for your job though. Not that its any of my business but I probably would have gone for a liquid rust-eater on that scale rather than electrolysing, but it did the trick ok. The important thing is that you found it and fixed it.
Ingenious method of rust treatment. Proving the point all narrow boats rust inside out. 19th century design in the 21st century. I have thought over and over again about how to build a narrow boat better.
The paint reaction was due to one or the other being bitumen based , the " lumps & bumps " were caused by the white paint being softened up , but you live and learn .
An easy traditional way (on ships) is to "paint' the area with diesel which undermines and lifts the scale. Messy to clean up and needs some time to work otherwise can be left to prevent further deterioration as is, if remote and not venting smell into adjacent spaces, until such time as it can be prettified. Local heat from a blowlamp will also quickly "blow-out" scale in hard to reach areas (for wire brushes, needle guns, chipping hammers). Your process I think makes partial ferrosso-ferric iron oxide; a black allotrope of rust otherwise known as "millscale' which should be a stable anti corrosion coating as long as it is not abraded away; your getting regular brown oxide suggests it was not a total conversion. I would still use a "Kurust' type of product (which ensures a complete millscale layer under a thin veneer membrane seal) which can be then directly painted over with hammerite (or smooth-right version) . I think I'd be tempted to use a zinc primer coat (I think hammerite do one fully compatible one as well) as a sacrificial coating if the paint film is damaged later. I think coca-cola works also (phosphoric acid).
Thanks Phenogen Yes I need to up my game when I take on the engine bay. Interesting about the diesel but I can’t stomach the smell and my engine bay also continues into the sleeping space so I try to keep spillage and leaks to a minimum. I know what you mean about the black oxide conversion, a good insurance I think.
Personally I'd remove all paint down to whatever level bare metal etc and coat the area in 2 part epoxy resin to seal and waterproof the metal and resin is sand able and paint able too good video
Thanks for the words of encouragement gillywild. When I first watched back my bit to camera at the end I couldn’t believe how many times I said “actually” and I also said it just before when talking about the engine bay. It made me cringe then smile so I thought I should leave it in. The next video is getting rather long so I promise to leave out “this sort of thing” as father Ted would say:-)
I used that method on an irreplaceable petrol tank for a classic motorcycle. It was rusted on the inside.
To finish the job I used a kit from POR15. That entailed a rust-eating flush and clean followed by swilling round an epoxy-like sealing coat. Absolutely beautiful finish, like brand new. In addition its proof against the contaminated corrosive swill that’s peddled as petrol nowadays. Not the right kit for your job though.
Not that its any of my business but I probably would have gone for a liquid rust-eater on that scale rather than electrolysing, but it did the trick ok. The important thing is that you found it and fixed it.
Really interesting technique. Enjoy all the narrowboat adventures. Good job 👍
Thank you!
Ingenious method of rust treatment.
Proving the point all narrow boats rust inside out.
19th century design in the 21st century.
I have thought over and over again about how to build a narrow boat better.
Bit late to this vid, but very impressed and like your honesty.
The paint reaction was due to one or the other being bitumen based , the " lumps & bumps " were caused by the white paint being softened up , but you live and learn .
An easy traditional way (on ships) is to "paint' the area with diesel which undermines and lifts the scale. Messy to clean up and needs some time to work otherwise can be left to prevent further deterioration as is, if remote and not venting smell into adjacent spaces, until such time as it can be prettified. Local heat from a blowlamp will also quickly "blow-out" scale in hard to reach areas (for wire brushes, needle guns, chipping hammers). Your process I think makes partial ferrosso-ferric iron oxide; a black allotrope of rust otherwise known as "millscale' which should be a stable anti corrosion coating as long as it is not abraded away; your getting regular brown oxide suggests it was not a total conversion. I would still use a "Kurust' type of product (which ensures a complete millscale layer under a thin veneer membrane seal) which can be then directly painted over with hammerite (or smooth-right version) . I think I'd be tempted to use a zinc primer coat (I think hammerite do one fully compatible one as well) as a sacrificial coating if the paint film is damaged later. I think coca-cola works also (phosphoric acid).
Thanks Phenogen Yes I need to up my game when I take on the engine bay. Interesting about the diesel but I can’t stomach the smell and my engine bay also continues into the sleeping space so I try to keep spillage and leaks to a minimum. I know what you mean about the black oxide conversion, a good insurance I think.
Personally I'd remove all paint down to whatever level bare metal etc and coat the area in 2 part epoxy resin to seal and waterproof the metal and resin is sand able and paint able too good video
Well actually ;) yes I did like it :) Keep 'em coming. The subscribers will grow.
Thanks for the words of encouragement gillywild. When I first watched back my bit to camera at the end I couldn’t believe how many times I said “actually” and I also said it just before when talking about the engine bay. It made me cringe then smile so I thought I should leave it in. The next video is getting rather long so I promise to leave out “this sort of thing” as father Ted would say:-)
Jumping on board with you, love the video, great information, banged the sub button
This is similar to what we do with coins after they've been dug up metal detecting, only on a bigger scale :) nice results there :)
Thanks for the complement DK I didn’t know they used it for cleaning finds.
use rust remedy
Why not get a slightly wider boat
rust remedy be fore you paint