Awesome video Beau! It's so exciting to see a printed mold set in such a high tonnage press, that's been the biggest question about this style of mold since I started experimenting with them. The board looks fantastic too, great geometry
Its just fantastic what we can do at home now. 20yrs ago we made concrete molds from handcarved foam or clay modeled positives. Now I am printing molds for carbon surffoils on the 3D printer or carve them from MDF on the CNC. Also the whole design process (or ripping the 3D models from the manufacturers if you are lazy) has changed so much. 25 yrs ago I designet my first fiberglass squirt Kayak in Autocad which really was a pita. Now I am using Rhino3D to finish molds and parts in hours instead of weeks...
Fantastic video Beau, I spent some time testing 3D printed molds and was surprised of their resistance to pressure (cnc kitchen video was of great help). I’m using petg and will test pla to reduce costs. Cheers !
This is so inspiring! You should try using anti-warping tips (there's a specific function in Cura), which are basically small 2-layers-high circles of extruded materials that you can place right beneath the edges of your prints. Been printing a mold and router-guide for a Cruiser I've designed and anti-warping tips (plus 200°C/70°C for hotend/plate) saved me from wasting any print...and infinite hours
Hello. I am planning on making a snowskate from 3D printed molds and I really like your rocker design. Would you be willing to provide your change in height dimension for the curve?
Red Purple Orange Veneers are big selling points in a skateboard mold . To Get a good concave and shape of board is so important - board shops like PS and Dwindle Having the best wood i suggest you buy one of their brands top selling shapes and making your shape and mold exactly like one of thiers if you intend on selling it. Always use some sort of graphic done buy some edgy artist made specifically for you and dont use anyones artist advice unless they are in the industry even though graphic doesnt matter a skateboard that says SK8 or someone doing a grab with a helmet on or something like a target or walmart kryptonics deck will get your brand out of business faster than i can type this comment . ifyour planon making awoodshop for skateboarding i would think other wise companies use dwindle and Paul S. as a prize and wont use other boardshops just cause. fyi almost all boardscome from the same 2 woodshops except their price point decks come from mexico or china because they are meant for kids just starting cause they snap like tooth pics everyday not trying to be mean just giving you the real
sanding the edges rounded is crucial -(you wont sell a board to any skateshop or board brand thats core when using wood colored veneers) A BIG PET PEEVE with skateboarders use colored veneers on top sheet and in middle a solid wood colored skateboard comes off as extremely cheap no matter the quality of wood . no one will skate it that is a true skateboarder its just gross feeling looking etc. your skateboard kit is crucial when skating how you look how you feel and how you think others think you look and feel is all crucial when skateboarding.
Thank you! For this particular mold, since it was a demo/experiment, I wasn't sure that I'd publish the design... however, I've been building SK8CAD to allow people to design and download their own STL files here: sk8cad.com (plus, I have some updates coming soon that include tub concave and concave in the kicks that the SK8CAD Patreon supporters have access to and are testing right now :) ).
I’m going to try this! I’m concerned not having a top layer will leave impressions in the wood though besides the softer wood have you seen this with Maple veneer?
The only spots a saw very small impressions in maple were at the seams between the 3D printed pieces (and I was able to just sand those out). I hadn't seen any impressions from the texture of the infill. An easy solution would be to add 1/8" of extra offset to your molds, and then just add 2 extra dry sheets of veneer on either side of your deck when you press, which will act as a buffer and protect the deck's veneers from any imprinting.
@@luvinfunvan ah, I apologize for not clarifying: two part molds used for bending (like skateboard molds) should have "offset" surfaces; that is, the surfaces should not be mirror images of each other. The amount of offset is dependent upon the thickness of whatever you are bending. The parameter in SK8CAD that accounts for this is "mold offset". Check out the description and a little diagram here: sk8cad.com/user-guide.html#moldSpecs (scroll down to "mold offset"). This concept is sort of analogous to turning in a car: if you make a right turn when driving a car, the right wheel curve along a smaller radius than the left wheel. If you make skateboard molds with 0" of offset (direct mirror copies), you'll likely see poor board pressings resulting in bubbles, cracks, and poor lamination.
@@openSourceskateboards ah got it. Totally makes sense. I’m still mostly vacuum bagging single sided molds. I do however use shaped blocks clamped on my drop down decks. Thanks for the explanation!
I'm not certain, but my guess would be "Mold 8" refers to the mold the board was pressed on (which may or may not have different geometry from the other manufacturer's molds) and #4 probably refers to the board's position in the stack (several boards are typically pressed between two molds, with the boards closest to the male mold feeling steepest, and the boards closest to the female mold feeling mellowest). I'd welcome anyone else to correct me here if they see this and have an answer!
Awesome video Beau! It's so exciting to see a printed mold set in such a high tonnage press, that's been the biggest question about this style of mold since I started experimenting with them. The board looks fantastic too, great geometry
Thanks, Chris!
❤by
Its just fantastic what we can do at home now. 20yrs ago we made concrete molds from handcarved foam or clay modeled positives.
Now I am printing molds for carbon surffoils on the 3D printer or carve them from MDF on the CNC.
Also the whole design process (or ripping the 3D models from the manufacturers if you are lazy) has changed so much.
25 yrs ago I designet my first fiberglass squirt Kayak in Autocad which really was a pita. Now I am using Rhino3D to finish molds and parts in hours instead of weeks...
This is extremely cool. This is the first time I find myself really wanting to make a skateboard someday! Thanks for sharing your process so clearly.
You're welcome! It wasn't highlighted in this video, so be sure to checkout SK8CAD to help with the design process :) sk8cad.com
Thank u so much. I already make may own mold and deck. U are the best teacher 😁👍
Fantastic video Beau, I spent some time testing 3D printed molds and was surprised of their resistance to pressure (cnc kitchen video was of great help). I’m using petg and will test pla to reduce costs. Cheers !
This is so inspiring! You should try using anti-warping tips (there's a specific function in Cura), which are basically small 2-layers-high circles of extruded materials that you can place right beneath the edges of your prints. Been printing a mold and router-guide for a Cruiser I've designed and anti-warping tips (plus 200°C/70°C for hotend/plate) saved me from wasting any print...and infinite hours
Awesome, thanks for the tip!
Love it I just got into the arts of board making I made my press old school style I need a better mold like this
Amazing stuff, love it
amazing video and job
More trick videos please.
could I get the onshape document?
Hello. I am planning on making a snowskate from 3D printed molds and I really like your rocker design. Would you be willing to provide your change in height dimension for the curve?
That is looking cool 😎🆒️ and nice 3D skateboard! I am just subscribed to your channel 👍🔔💯😁🐐💥🔥🤙💪🛹
Red Purple Orange Veneers are big selling points in a skateboard mold . To Get a good concave and shape of board is so important - board shops like PS and Dwindle Having the best wood i suggest you buy one of their brands top selling shapes and making your shape and mold exactly like one of thiers if you intend on selling it. Always use some sort of graphic done buy some edgy artist made specifically for you and dont use anyones artist advice unless they are in the industry even though graphic doesnt matter a skateboard that says SK8 or someone doing a grab with a helmet on or something like a target or walmart kryptonics deck will get your brand out of business faster than i can type this comment . ifyour planon making awoodshop for skateboarding i would think other wise companies use dwindle and Paul S. as a prize and wont use other boardshops just cause. fyi almost all boardscome from the same 2 woodshops except their price point decks come from mexico or china because they are meant for kids just starting cause they snap like tooth pics everyday
not trying to be mean just giving you the real
you should release a parametric model for this or something. Id get that in a second.
nvm using skatecad
I love it. Ibwould love to build my own deck but I guess you need the financial background to have the fun. Hey I could do the art 😉
Not at all, 50 Bucks of foam and veneer and you got yourself a board. Just takes effort
Hey how much would it cost for you to make me a mold from your 3 d printer?????
sanding the edges rounded is crucial -(you wont sell a board to any skateshop or board brand thats core when using wood colored veneers) A BIG PET PEEVE with skateboarders use colored veneers on top sheet and in middle a solid wood colored skateboard comes off as extremely cheap no matter the quality of wood . no one will skate it that is a true skateboarder its just gross feeling looking etc. your skateboard kit is crucial when skating how you look how you feel and how you think others think you look and feel is all crucial when skateboarding.
Hey, how much will it cost me to buy your mold?
Good job Beau!, are you going to sell the stl files? :)
Thank you! For this particular mold, since it was a demo/experiment, I wasn't sure that I'd publish the design... however, I've been building SK8CAD to allow people to design and download their own STL files here: sk8cad.com (plus, I have some updates coming soon that include tub concave and concave in the kicks that the SK8CAD Patreon supporters have access to and are testing right now :) ).
I’m going to try this! I’m concerned not having a top layer will leave impressions in the wood though besides the softer wood have you seen this with Maple veneer?
The only spots a saw very small impressions in maple were at the seams between the 3D printed pieces (and I was able to just sand those out). I hadn't seen any impressions from the texture of the infill. An easy solution would be to add 1/8" of extra offset to your molds, and then just add 2 extra dry sheets of veneer on either side of your deck when you press, which will act as a buffer and protect the deck's veneers from any imprinting.
@@openSourceskateboards thanks, I don’t understand what you mean by adding 1/8” extra offset to the mold?
@@luvinfunvan ah, I apologize for not clarifying: two part molds used for bending (like skateboard molds) should have "offset" surfaces; that is, the surfaces should not be mirror images of each other. The amount of offset is dependent upon the thickness of whatever you are bending. The parameter in SK8CAD that accounts for this is "mold offset". Check out the description and a little diagram here: sk8cad.com/user-guide.html#moldSpecs (scroll down to "mold offset"). This concept is sort of analogous to turning in a car: if you make a right turn when driving a car, the right wheel curve along a smaller radius than the left wheel. If you make skateboard molds with 0" of offset (direct mirror copies), you'll likely see poor board pressings resulting in bubbles, cracks, and poor lamination.
@@openSourceskateboards ah got it. Totally makes sense. I’m still mostly vacuum bagging single sided molds. I do however use shaped blocks clamped on my drop down decks. Thanks for the explanation!
Hi
I would like to ask if you could explain to me what is mold 8 #4 on decks? I just learned that theres a lot of mold types🥴 thanks😊
I'm not certain, but my guess would be "Mold 8" refers to the mold the board was pressed on (which may or may not have different geometry from the other manufacturer's molds) and #4 probably refers to the board's position in the stack (several boards are typically pressed between two molds, with the boards closest to the male mold feeling steepest, and the boards closest to the female mold feeling mellowest). I'd welcome anyone else to correct me here if they see this and have an answer!
Would you consider selling me a mold like this? Maybe 2 or 3?