Keep learning on the Scooby's Issac, as Lee has proven with the Cossies they are a niche market that will bring work in even when the general economy isn't good 👍😉 Have a great weekend everyone 😁
The easiest way to ease the clutch problem is to reduce the size of the master cylinder. The smallest standard car master cylinder is 0.625” but you can find a 14mm if you look hard enough, however you can use a motorbike master cylinder with a 1/2” bore which will give 56% more travel than a 0.625”. Really easy conversion.
7:35 I can imagine that when driving this car ‘in the heat of the fight’ one has many too much things on his mind to operate the lever correctly…. Might I suggest having a solenoid-operated valve…. controlled by the oil pressure sensor…. it will take your mind of the oilpressure issue alltogether….
That bit of fitting the old scoop looks fantastic & I noticed it right away in the video before you showed it. Keep up the great work and videos on both channels Lee and Issac, it's great seeing you both getting better all the time.
Looking right smart, mates. Not only does the a-sump provide when, or if there's a surge/drop in pressure, this will pre-lube the engine at first start of the day and avoid dry bearing start.
If you don't like the clutch and you racing it see if you can get a quick-shifter for the engine! As one touches the gear- change up or down, on for eg that bike, it gives a micro blip off the throttle and you in the next gear very fast! Up or down! Just use clutch when stopping or taking off. Worth looking into now its on a fuel injected box engine!?
Looks great, but I’m not convinced you will actually get much air to the oil cooler through those holes, especially with the number plate there. Needs a little chin lip to build up air pressure and stop it spilling underneath the cowling….
kit car looks great, can't wait to see vid's from a track day! can you do something with that pipe sticking out the bonnet... fibre-glass a hump or something to cover it?
For the clutch issue. Look into a pedal with an adjustable fulcrum point. Really makes a big difference in fine tuning engagement, feedback, duration, etc. Naturally this can only get you so far if the hydraulic setup has a very short throw.
I've always liked those little 7 replicas and decided to have a go at building one once, I'm in South Africa but there were a couple of places providing kits at the time, so I started gathering a few bits, engine, gearbox etc., but then a very nice Europa Twincam became available, so I bought that instead and enjoyed it for a few years, but that's been gone a while now and I'm back to thinking about a 7 again, yours looks very nice !!
The blackbird engine is amazing, but like any other engine it can suffer with oil starvation when performance driving, I assume you have done what most people do and cut the sump level thereby reducing the oil capacity by about 60 - 65% no engine will survive that,. The accusump is not meant to restore oil capacity to the sump if that is how you are using it. If you aren't doing this then sorry to bother you just ignore me. I added two large wings to my blackbird motors cut down sump to more than restore the sump capacity and then added a couple of simple baffles in it, Never ever had a peep out of it after that, I also had a round red brake light in my face to show if there was slightest oil surge problems. Cheers
Needs a Jegs p/n 50084 bug catcher because it would be hysterically funny to be on that car. 😂 Anyway, great engine choice. As a former Blackbird owner, I approve.
Question: what is the track design you typically run; oval, figure 8? With the engine sitting slightly sideways and the air intake back in relation to the front of the engine, I’m wondering if you will be creating a “hi or lo pressure zone” in front of the air intake which could reduce airflow?
Maybe try and say 'mate' in that slightly gooey way a few less times per episode... It makes me feel a bit queasy 🤢 Good choice on the Blackie engine. I've one in the boik and it's fantastic 👍
Previous video shows the prop shaft bang on the centre line. Engine has to be offset and at an angle to achieve alignment. If engine was straight and on centre the prop shaft would interfere with driver's foot well and pedals. It is a method used in many front engined single seat racing cars although this looks to be quite an extreme set-up. .
@@arzemagicPretty sure that the prop shaft is on the centre line of the car. However this creates a misalignment (large angle) between the prop shaft and the gearbox output. Not ideal and time will tell if this is an issue. Severe misalignment may lead to excessive vibration and wear. Edit... Take a look at "Mac's Motor City Garage Driveshaft Angle and Phasing" RUclips video.
You could have fired it up so we can hear it! 😍
Keep learning on the Scooby's Issac, as Lee has proven with the Cossies they are a niche market that will bring work in even when the general economy isn't good 👍😉
Have a great weekend everyone 😁
The easiest way to ease the clutch problem is to reduce the size of the master cylinder. The smallest standard car master cylinder is 0.625” but you can find a 14mm if you look hard enough, however you can use a motorbike master cylinder with a 1/2” bore which will give 56% more travel than a 0.625”. Really easy conversion.
Looking forward to seeing Isaacs subaru. 😮
7:35 I can imagine that when driving this car ‘in the heat of the fight’ one has many too much things on his mind to operate the lever correctly….
Might I suggest having a solenoid-operated valve…. controlled by the oil pressure sensor…. it will take your mind of the oilpressure issue alltogether….
Just open the valve and it will operate automatically. That's what it's for. When ready to shut down, bring the oil pressure up, then close the valve.
The triffid on the piss upsets my ocd must have been a way to get it straight.
That bit of fitting the old scoop looks fantastic & I noticed it right away in the video before you showed it. Keep up the great work and videos on both channels Lee and Issac, it's great seeing you both getting better all the time.
Hi Lee with clutch its not the slave cylinder it might be the pedal ratio
Looking right smart, mates. Not only does the a-sump provide when, or if there's a surge/drop in pressure, this will pre-lube the engine at first start of the day and avoid dry bearing start.
You may want to think a out fitting a 'quick shifter' to the gear linkage.
Those radiators might actually do some cooling if all the fins weren't smashed!
If you don't like the clutch and you racing it see if you can get a quick-shifter for the engine! As one touches the gear- change up or down, on for eg that bike, it gives a micro blip off the throttle and you in the next gear very fast! Up or down! Just use clutch when stopping or taking off. Worth looking into now its on a fuel injected box engine!?
Do you think it's got enough power to close the door to the machine shop?
Looks great, but I’m not convinced you will actually get much air to the oil cooler through those holes, especially with the number plate there. Needs a little chin lip to build up air pressure and stop it spilling underneath the cowling….
If you need to get more air to the oil cooler, you can convert the outer two holes on both sides, into two slots. Leave the central hole for strength.
From memory the accusump should be sloping downwards a bit to reduce the chance of pushing air back into the engine, be worth double checking.
kit car looks great, can't wait to see vid's from a track day! can you do something with that pipe sticking out the bonnet... fibre-glass a hump or something to cover it?
I'm looking forward to seeing the beast perform. Nice.😮
Cant remember the power to weight before but hope you do another video slong the coast giving it some beans.
For the clutch issue. Look into a pedal with an adjustable fulcrum point. Really makes a big difference in fine tuning engagement, feedback, duration, etc. Naturally this can only get you so far if the hydraulic setup has a very short throw.
Do you have space to install a proper competition pedal box, that has adjustable links?
I've always liked those little 7 replicas and decided to have a go at building one once, I'm in South Africa but there were a couple of places providing kits at the time, so I started gathering a few bits, engine, gearbox etc., but then a very nice Europa Twincam became available, so I bought that instead and enjoyed it for a few years, but that's been gone a while now and I'm back to thinking about a 7 again, yours looks very nice !!
The acusump can absolutely be worse than not having it. Because oil flow can divert to fill the reservoir instead of feeding the bearings.
It can also lead to overfilling the crankcase and aerate the oil. That can cause gearbox failure on a bike transmission, as well as engine damage.
The blackbird engine is amazing, but like any other engine it can suffer with oil starvation when performance driving, I assume you have done what most people do and cut the sump level thereby reducing the oil capacity by about 60 - 65% no engine will survive that,. The accusump is not meant to restore oil capacity to the sump if that is how you are using it. If you aren't doing this then sorry to bother you just ignore me.
I added two large wings to my blackbird motors cut down sump to more than restore the sump capacity and then added a couple of simple baffles in it, Never ever had a peep out of it after that, I also had a round red brake light in my face to show if there was slightest oil surge problems. Cheers
Nicely done👍👍
That’s looking right sharpish.
but does it go --- the acid test is when you get it out on the track.
Kit car looks great and sounds like thats for another video?
Needs a Jegs p/n 50084 bug catcher because it would be hysterically funny to be on that car. 😂
Anyway, great engine choice. As a former Blackbird owner, I approve.
looks a bit like a rain catcher?
Making use of the great British weather
Def use Race dynamix. Duncan is brill and it won't melt. 😊😊
Kit car looks wicked
I cant believe you didnt start it !!!!!
Looks rad!
EngineTuner in Plymouth are Subaru specialists.
Yes explain the odd engine angle , it's doing my head in and no engine start , even for few seconds
Question: what is the track design you typically run; oval, figure 8? With the engine sitting slightly sideways and the air intake back in relation to the front of the engine, I’m wondering if you will be creating a “hi or lo pressure zone” in front of the air intake which could reduce airflow?
Ram Air diff cover? Banks makes them in the USA for diesels
RaceDynamix, Duncan knows his stuff, did my Scooby 25k ago
Be mindful of all that unfamiliar torque so you don't go off as you poke it through a turn ;-)
Pedal ratio change for that clutch? Maybe try larger master cylinder bore first.
I'm sure you can do the maths 😊
What happened to the edging on the bonnet cut out?
Lee how come the air box is of square to the bonnet?
why don't you paint the triffid orange
Need some smarter LED headlights.
Let it rip on the race track.
Fit a quick shifter than you will hardly use the clutch
Where do I put my whipped cream??? 🍼
Auto dynamix . Try them
Sic AF 💪⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️✅️
Maybe try and say 'mate' in that slightly gooey way a few less times per episode... It makes me feel a bit queasy 🤢 Good choice on the Blackie engine. I've one in the boik and it's fantastic 👍
Oooh 1st??
Cordialement,
show us the out put shaft to prop and diff line coz the engine position looks all kinds of wrong to me
Previous video shows the prop shaft bang on the centre line. Engine has to be offset and at an angle to achieve alignment. If engine was straight and on centre the prop shaft would interfere with driver's foot well and pedals. It is a method used in many front engined single seat racing cars although this looks to be quite an extreme set-up. .
Agreed. It looks totally out of alignment. If the output shaft is in line , that's important. . But it looks pants being at the angle it's at !!
How come the engine is on the angle?
If engine was straight the prop shaft would be in the driver's foot well where the pedals need to be.
@@UK_Lemons so does that mean that the driveshaft does not run straight
@@arzemagicPretty sure that the prop shaft is on the centre line of the car. However this creates a misalignment (large angle) between the prop shaft and the gearbox output. Not ideal and time will tell if this is an issue. Severe misalignment may lead to excessive vibration and wear.
Edit... Take a look at "Mac's Motor City Garage Driveshaft Angle and Phasing" RUclips video.
Never to hear it
No road test? how boring