The idle sounds WAY too rich, thats why it stalling. Most likely the idle gap is too big and the previous owner tried to bring the revs down again with rich idle mixture. The fact that it wants to drive off in idle, but sounds "dull" is usually a sign of that. Usually an easy fix: 1. Reset all needles (high, low and idle) to factory settings. 2. Use some 0.5mm wire to get the idle gap to 0.5mm (this is usually the best setting for .21 engines) 3. Start the car and let it warm up 4. Adjust the high speed needle for maximum top speed, with smoke still coming from the exhaust (important!) and the engine not cutting out (even when going full open throttle for multiple seconds, some nitros tend to lean out during long accelerations). 5. Adjust the low speed needle for smooth idle. Test this by going full throttle for 2-3s and stopping the car, the engine should start to idle smoothly pretty quickly and hold its rpm for atleast 10s, 20-30s would be near perfect. If the rpm start to drop after a while in idle (and the engine sound gets low), the idle mixture is still too rich. Lean out the low speed needle again and ONLY lower the idle gap if the rpm start rising.
@Lua Dipa "Slow" You're only going to see this at the very limits of what a power system can do, which you're only actually going to hit with a speedrun car. For most applications, the speeds between electric and nitro power are comparable, with electric power having a torque advantage at the low RPM ranges. As a result, an electric RC car _can_ be faster, but most of the time it's just "punchier". "Unreliable" 9 out of 10 issues I've seen with nitro cars are user error, usually as a result of the car being run excessively rich (causing flooding and glow plug fouling), excessively lean (causing damage to the internal components of the engine), or just being driven improperly (overreving the engine). The remaining 1 out of 10 is generally due to either a shitty starting system (pull starts are garbage) or a shitty, low quality engine (anything from Traxxas).
@Lua Dipa That's fine. I was just pointing out that your initial statements were not entirely accurate. Nitro is a bit more work than electric, I'll give you that, and it is loud (which is subjectively part of the appeal but in a practical sense is problematic). I can't say I agree with you entirely on the smell, I've found that really depends on your fuel. Morgan Fuels Sidewinder doesn't have much of a smell to it but some of the higher oil content stuff absolutely reeks. As far as stunts go, that's definitely one of the areas where electric has a distinct advantage. Back when the big nitro monster trucks were a thing you could get them to flip around and stuff in the air, but electric has that instant torque that makes it a lot easier. As for on-demand wheelies and bunny hops, that's possible with nitro but only with specific large-displacement engines (generally above .30ci). I have more of a racing background myself, and I feel that that's where nitro really starts to shine. Nitro vehicles generally run longer mains than electric (up to an hour for nitro vs seven minutes for electric) so consistency becomes more important and pit strategy enters the equation. The smoother power band also helps to reduce wheelspin, especially on dirt, and allows you to be more aggressive with the throttle.
Got that right I got one of them cars got two of them bought one for parts one of barely one never run and one still in the box they were $400 a shot I don't know what he's talking about he's no machinist their engine tuner I've had mine for over 10 years runs fine
@@jeremiahrobles4038 100% agree and is exactly what i was thinking throughout the entire video. Doesn't know how to tune it and calls out all Nitros for being crap lol
@@jeremiahrobles4038 It's true, people just need to accept that nitros require a huge amount of experience, knowledge, headache and cost, and that's what makes them better. If you want something that is easy to use, reliable, and cost effective, use electric like all the other sheeple. If you want to spend a lot of time tuning, googling forums for answers to weird problems, and/or money on new parts or replacement parts that reliably and consistently die over time, a nitro is perfect for you :) Why go fast with reliable electric power when you can go slow/noisey/oiley with nitro after warming up and retuning? If anyone has trouble with nitro, it's their own fault for buying the WRONG nitro, they should've bought the RIGHT nitro! Sarcasm aside, I've enjoyed nitro in the past. Still have my good old Tamiya TRF801X in the garage with absolutely gorgeous Novarossi to power it...but still, it lives in the garage as nostalgia, while the electric 8th buggies get all the proper use. More power, more reliable, less cleanup? Yeah, I'm never going back, lol
As a bigger adult. I tend to get funny looks when i play with my electric trucks...but when i pull out my hpi savage x 4.6 nitro and do a 45mph screamin wheelie across walmart parking lot. People pull up to talk.. usually guys with angry lookin wifes beside them lol.
Nitro is a fickle beast but once it's running right it's a beautiful thing. Had about 4 nitro's at one point, that's twiddled down to one 😂 Great video!
I can absolutely understand why some enjoy Nitro(other than smell and noise) is your runtime is not limited by batteries you carry but the amount of fuel, just refuel for more drive
He forgot to mention the disadvantage of the heat of the engine yes it has its advantages to be able just to fill it up instead of waiting on a battery to charge but you have the disadvantage with nitro engines of letting it cool every 5 minutes it's basically Run 5 minutes cool 5 minutes and yes I've owned seven different types of nitro big block and small
@@TreySlayPlay23 Running way to lean if you're only getting 5 mins out of then as i assume you had an air intake cut out in the shell front window like most vehicles to allow air flow for cooling
@@TreySlayPlay23 yeah it has cool down but only if you running lean and not servicing your car but if you break it in properly and run it often then it won't over heat too much
I've been running the TRX 2.5 and 3.3s for 20 yrs now and never broke a block. If you learn to tune them properly you get great results. Easy to modify and make lots more power too.
Nitro doesn’t suck. You can completely remove and disassemble a motor in 20mins. As long as you under stand about lean and rich and use a temp gun. Oh and don’t squirt things like wd-40 into the motor. If its old and gunked up you disassemble use heat and soak parts in denatured alcohol. Then you coat the parts in oil (castor). Then you re assemble and re tune to factory settings and run a few tanks and make some adjustments. I have run many cars for hours on end with no stopping re fuel while running. Do it all the time.
Traxxas is known for selling lemon nitro motors, (junk from the factory). Alot of the 3.3 motors have leaks in either the head which kills compression or at the intake where the carb slides in which will cause it to not get enough fuel and too much air.
trx motors have one very fatal flaw, no rod bushing in the connecting rod where the piston sits. Even if you keep temps will within normal temps you have bare aluminum exposed to the piston pin and piston, eventually it will shear. Get temps higher than they should be and expect this to break even sooner. I have an unused 3.3 in my nitro rs4 2 with an upgraded rod that has a proper design, but I have no idea where you can buy one now.
Set needles to factory settings (rich side), set idle gap in carb to .5mm, make sure your glow plug glows bright orange (this checks glow starter and plug), make sure no air bubbles are entering carb inlet, make sure you didn't flood it. After priming I would gently open the carb just a mm or two to allow more air as you're starting. As long as your engine doesn't have dozens of gallons through it compression should not be an issue. And as others have said, you need new clutch springs. Your wheels should definitely not be spinning while cranking. This alone will keep your engine from starting since there's too much load on the engine.
Like most others have said: 1. Check idle gap, usually 1-1.5mm 2. Clutch springs broken/weak, incorrectly installed 3. Mixtures not right, does the 2.5 actually have the same defaults as the 3.3? Cool to see you trying something different, nitro is fun once you get it by the figs ;)
@@Iamfirebird360The only people that don’t like nitro don’t have clue to what’s actually going on…. it’s a simple 2 stroke engine and they still can’t figure it out 😂
If you read your Traxxas owners manual and follow instructions. The Traxxas nitro models will give you many years of enjoyment. I just Broke in and Tuned my New TMAXX 3.3 such amazing rc
Hi, Tom decent video mate. The thing with nitro is experience and know-how. then it's awesome. I love the sound and mechanical feel you get. See once you make a list of things to check when there's an issue just a process of elimination. I have approx 12 nitros all run ok, got a couple of old ones, they can be a pain, but hay was cheap like this one was. Not sure why the guy you brought it from sold it so cheap, apart from their cheap when they're known in the scheme of things. Cheers catch ya soon me still trying to catch up on your videos.
Yes, I saw that, not sure it's as easy to get a 1/2 price replacement in the UK. Also been told the 3.3's are not really the best for newbies like me lol
@@TomleyRC The 3.3s are total junk dude. I've been running nitro since 2003, I'm still running the second engine I ever bought(circa 2008), and even I couldn't get one of those junk piles to last more than a gallon or to run right in general. Put an OS 18TM in that 4-tec and you will never have engine problems again. Itt'l be as reliable as your electrics. 'Course the rest of the car will implode around it because nothing Traxxas makes is any good(I'm $600 into my Slayer Pro which I got 2nd hand for $225 and it's only now reliable!), but the engine'll be as reliable as any electric in your fleet. While you're doing this, you're also gonna want to ditch the stock clutch(It's also shite) for a hopup clutch that will actually hold together. Also, the 18TM is a direct drop-in fit. OS designed it specifically to replace ailing 2.5 and 3.3 engines. Even re-uses the EZ-Start system.
@@TestECull yeah traxxas are durable after you put 500$ into them lol, besides the bulletproof trx4 everything else is a pain. I just tossed my 16th slash in the closet after spending hours putting yeah Racing driveshafts in and I put the wheels on and they wont spin lmao no matter what I do I cant get the shafts the phase correctly.
@@TestECull I agree they are not the best by any means but I have a 3.3 Jato I bought 10 yrs ago and have about 8 gallons run through it and runs like new
I thought nitro was dead since brushless became affordable but some people like the mechanics of a working engine.i can understand as its all part of modelling miniture machines.
I bought my first Nitro 14 years ago. Jato 2.5. I ran it for over a year, on the same motor with no problems. I then stopped playing with it and stored it until last week when i pulled it out, cleaned it up and got some replacement parts and got it running. I ran it for 20minutes until i got the tuning right (tore apart carb to check every oring) and after several high speed 2nd gear passes the connecting rod broke. Now i'm looking at either $70 for sleeve piston kit or maybe $100 for brand new motor on amazon (off brand but great rating chinese motors) I still love nitro, it's really fun. I may though delve into electric too. I though about converting my jato to Electric (i have 3d printer to make custom parts) It's a fun but EXPENSIVE hobby that i miss.
To start with, look down the carb and see if the throttle closes when you brake, if it does, wind the idle screw in ever so slightly till it stops the throttle flowing when you brake but not enough to start raising the idle speed. Then go though the basic tuning charts, i.e idle, then hush speed up to temp then low speed.
You have to love to tinker to get good at tuning an RC engine properly. Keeping a temperature reading on the engine during running and after making tuning adjustments is CRITICAL to how well the engine will run and how long the engine will last. A lot of the problems with nitro RC fun is mostly the person using the engine. They run it too lean, they don't inspect anything after or before the run, they don't clean the air filter and re-oil as often as they should, they just pull on the pull starter like its a contest to see how far out it will pull lol. Quick short pull is all you need. Take the glow plug out after every run and clean the threads and around the inside of the cylinder head with a Q-tip...After run oil is not something everyone wants to do or doesn't believe in but I always put a drop or two in after the engine cools down during cleaning and inspecting. Heat the engine up over 150 degrees before trying to prime and start before the next run and make small adjustments to the high and low speed needle. GOOD LUCK and have fun!! Oh and remember "Electric is Convenient BUT NITRO is a HOBBY".
Yeah you have to be really into nitro to like it. Getting them to run properly is an art at the end of the day. My first nitro engine was defective from factory, it had no compression unfortunately. However still i tried my hardest with that engine as it was all i had... I learnt so much about engines and now 5 years later... I am still only running nitro!
Everyone saying clutch is right, the spring let go. I worked in a hobby shop for 10 years and been in the hobby 20. We had countless people who came in for "tuning" who just needed a clutch. It also makes it feel gutless, heats things up at idle. Bottom end mixture (and probably too end too) are also too lean, causing it to run hot and not want to start right away. Lean also kills glow plugs
I had a 4-tec 2.5 & beat the living daylight out of it. Flipped constantly, gouging the shit out of body/chassis. It was one of the most hassle free nitros I've ever owned. You do have to know how to properly clean/tune your engine once in a while tho.
I started with electric and got bored after the 1ft month ended up with my first nitro being a jato 3.3 fell in love its gotta big block on a carbon fiber chassis and upper chassis now everything is now upgraded to aluminum except for the steel drive shafts and the plastic body holders/ spring holders. gearbox is steel love it electric might be faster in the end but at the end of the day nitro will always be more fun then charging a damn battery.
Just got my first Nitro about a month ago, Tmax 2.5 and just got it running correctly. Traxxas engines are very sensitive to adjustments, but will run when set up correctly. Have a OS.32 in my helicopter that has run for 17 years without any problems. I stink like nitro fuel when I'm done with running the Tmax, never had that problem with the Hawk Pro. Started up and fly. Can tell you and I don't know much, but the idle is set to high. First get that set then work on the high speed needle from what I've read. Good luck, jjp
Hi Tomley :) , I dont think you hate Nitro at all I think you get frustrated with it. I am 53 now and have had Nitro RC cars ever since leaving school, my first was a Mardave Maruader with an Irvine 20 in it, that car had no brakes and only springs for suspension. If you spent enough time with Nitro Engines you would quickly learn about them, in ways they are easier to use than brushless systems. I have quite a few RC cars now, too many really and most of them are Nitro, never had a 4tec so might see if I can pic one of them up. I went out with friends a couple of weeks back and we all had 1/8scale buggies and they are all well sorted Nitro's and when they were running around together it sent shivers up the back of me neck, never get that feeling from electric cars, love the channel keep doing what your doing 👍
Yes, this is true. I think because my day job for the last 20+ years has been fixing things or teaching people to fix them, in my down time I like to plug and play. So having to test, tune, adjust etc.. takes the fun away for me. If I could hire a ‘Nitro Mechanic’ to come with me and hand me a ready to go running Nitro, I’d probably love it 😅
Idle must be held open by the Idle screw not the throttle servo. Holding it open with the servo will close the throttle when you go to brake. Put a thicker/harder piece of fuel tubing on the break linkage and set the collar so there is no play between the collar, fuel tubing and brake arm. Oh and put the glow infighter on last not first. Your plug and infighter will last longer. Until you get the settings close you will be restarting a lot. There is a reason that now there are more electric 1/8 buggies than nitro. You can worry more about handling than will the damn thing start.
My son and I each had Nitro 4Tecs. Fun cars. Those engines are nearly disposable. So much so that we ran 30% helicopter fuel and had a blast! Of course they would detonate once in a while, but $35 bucks gets a new engine. At that time, we had a bigger problem with the lack of belted tires. The OEM tires would simply explode off the wheels with 30%. We found that 15% heli fuel was a good mix. Fun cars.
@DavidRC Typical response from a Traxxas shill who can't accept that their brand has done anything wrong. I've done all that. And I've run many different engines. Traxxas, Kyosho, GS Racing, Dynamite Platinum, CEN, etc. I also used to work at a hobby store that specialized in RC. Of all the engines I've ever worked with, the TRX 3.3 has been the most temperamental engine by far. It will not hold a tune. And the conrod IS a weakness on that engine - why do you think Traxxas released a redesigned upgrade part? Even the TRX 2.5 didn't have these issues and it's pretty much the same basic engine design. A lot of the issues stem from the TRX 3.3 effectively being a big-block engine in a small-block design. It's only .01ci smaller than the big-block engines run in 1/8th scale buggies, and it's a high-performance engine at that - there are .28 RTR engines that put out less power. And, again, it's doing all that in a small-block design, with a small conrod, a small crank, and a small carb. Sure, you can make it last longer with a rich tune, but the TRX 3.3 is the only engine I've seen where running rich isn't so much recommended as it is _required._ And even then you have to constantly bring it in to keep the tune in that sweet spot, which is not something you have to do with other engines. I agree that a lot of people don't know how to tune, but the characteristics of the TRX 3.3 do NOT help with that.
I barely afford any of it except probably the $50 price range, It's still my dream RC since childhood, the 1st time i saw the HPI Baja 5SC first came out.
Some fuels, or more accurately most fuels that are actually GOOD, already have an anti-rust agent built-in, and the residue from combustion forms a protective coating.
4.5 turns on high speed 2.25 turns on the low speed needle and then adjust the idle screw, if your adjusting the idle screw and its still cutting out the idle screw thread has no doubt become damaged through being over tightened at some point youll need a new carb body
I have 6 rc cars and I love my electric traxxas slash and nitro slayer pro 4x4 ,,also have an electric redcat racing blackout xte pro and a redcat racing nitro shockwave 4x4...they are amazing!! Just getting into the hobby,,got my 1st one about a yr ago now I have 6!!
As soon as you figure out your break and throttle linkages you will quickly understand why it dies when hitting your brakes it's because it's shutting the cylinder all the way on your carburetor just need an allen wrench and adjust the spring on your throttle and Brake linkage simple fix and trust me it's very irritating when you don't know how to fix it Nitro is awesome just wish you could run them longer they need to come up with Factory coolant systems for nitro engines so you can constantly run it
It's your brake and throttle adjustment. On the old t-maxx if you hit the brake it would close the carb to the idle position, I think you've got it closing too far. My Nitro's would always have trouble starting once they were hot, so I use to add cooling ducts to the head.
Well, I can't say that nitro is the easiest or the cleanest, in fact far from it, but when you get that thing running right, it is so much fun!. Hope you get it running right.
Nitro is miles better than electric in my personal al opinion. Been in the hobby around 11 years and switched to nitro from electric 4 years ago. Best decision ever.
Nitro engines are finicky, especially the traxxas engines. They are 2-stroke so they don't like to idle especially if not tuned perfectly. You sound quite lean on the hi end and maybe. A little rich on the low end. Put a. O.S. or nova rossi in it, and it will run all day.
OS for sure, Nova maybe maybe not. Novas are known to be a bit fickle in their own right. Os, though...dude if an OS is giving you shit *it's your fault.* They're more reliable than anything Chrysler Corp has sold in the past 20 years or so.
@@TestECull I had an os in my old Hpi Super nitro. Sat for over 10 years, and was seized... Freed it up, ran a tank of equally old nitro and it ran like a champ. Probably 10 tanks thru it since. And idles perfectly...
@@bbeckers24 I've got an OS airplane engine that's easily 50 years old, bought for $20 siezed stiff. I still fly it on the regular; runs mint. Have na FS48 Surpass I got for about 80 attached to a biplane, also siezed, runs mint. You just can not go wrong with OS engines. Exceptional engines every single time. Why they're my first port of call when I'm looking to repower an RC.
@DavidRC glad to hear it. I've never had a traxxass engine idle perfectly and also run perfectly. I've always had to run them super rich so they run right, but that always kept them idling very good. Even with adjusting the low end needle.
I had a t-maxx 2.5 nitro. I loved it and hated it at the same time. Had to adjust it everyday. It got sold and replaced with a 2wd electric stampede LOL.
To me brushless may be faster and easier to head out and play with but it just seems soulless without the real smoke and sound especially on multi speed transmissions. The downside is nitromethane is very unstable and tuning can be a pain. However it’s a great skill to learn tuning because you learn a lot from nitros especially when buying kits for other RCS as I’m watching this now I’m replacing a carb on my tmaxx that hasn’t ran in more than a decade.
After gotten my ever first 2nd hand nitro which gives me heaps of headaches, and after solving all the issues (mainly human), I have started to love nitros every single day till now... and began to hate electrics due to all the maintenance hassles of batteries of different types for different cars (nitro just need one type of fuel to run all the fleet you have) which is a total nightmare to me!
And that mt friend is why you never buy belt driven RC cars! They stink I used to have a few back in the day the HPI nitros and always broke belts and pulleys they stunk so bad ... then HPI made them all shaft driven and they were 100 times better never any problems.... I never bought any belt driven RC cars ever again till this day!! Only dumb traxxas would make a belt driven nitro car! the only spot they run is on a groomed clean on road race track in normal parking lots and stuff they break all the time..... get rid of it while you still can when it still looks in good condition!
Thanks for posting this. It has confirmed to me all the reasons that I never got into nitro. Unreliable, complicated, noisy, smelly, messy etc. I guess there was a point to them maybe about 20 or so years ago when the electric ones weren't so quick and didn't last long. Now with lipo and brushless, why would you put yourself through this? It's supposed to be a fun hobby!
My nitros start 1st or 2nd time every time..imo.. it's all about break ins at idle I actually have done 6to7 tanks just at idle keeping an eye on the temp and making tiny adjustments with high and low needle when its starts breaking in and ready to lean her out..then after all that I go through driving 2 tanks quarter throttle, 2 tanks at 1/2 throttle make small adjustmets..very tiny ones, 2 tanks at 3/4 then take it easy for atlest 2 more tanks..then I set my adjustments for high/low to balls to the walls setting checking temp and making adjustments as I go..I never let it run out of fuel during break in procedure, because the idle and temp will go up,,and 10 / 15 min cool down between each run..I know this is old, but I figure people learning might help them,,I'm no expert, just been running. Itr and electric cars since I was 12 and I'm 52 now..out of maybe 150 rcs over the years I believe it's all about breaking it in slow, or very slow like me..the motors will love you longer and not be a pain in the ass..just takes patients and checking the temps..I have an original nitro rusler that's rus great I did do rebuild on it..sorry for the book mate
I bought one of these 5-6 months ago and its rever been out yet , im disabled with spinal injuries and i dont have any friends to help me go out with , it looks nice anyway.
If anyone is into this hobby, it would be sad if you've never got yourself a nitro. or never thought about getting one. Yes it requires maintenance but so does any other rc car.. you're lying if you're denying.
I have had my 3.3 for 10 years and have bashed it!!!! Still running strong you have to do the afterun preps when your done running it and they are only 100 bucks take care of it and they run forever......keep the afterun oil make sure piston isn't top dead center when cooling down and your good to go
If you like to tinker, prey, adjust, prey, hope, repeat than yeah nitro is AWSOME 😳. NO THANKS ! Electric- charge it and go, put it on the shelf-3 months later charge and go. Electric cuts out the bad part (piston engine) and let’s you get to all the other good stuff quick and easy 👍 I will say this-nitro guys who get the process down pat deserve a lot of respect for there dedication 👏
hey man reason for car to stall is that you need to pull your servo horn of and make sure the throttle servo at its neural point. put the servo horn back on and then apply full brake without it running and adjust the idle so that it does not close the air canal in the carb.
I had an old hpi rs4 that would start first pull every time. I could burn off a set of tires with two tanks. Just keep tuning. As far as brakes killing the motor your clutch isn’t releasing.
Clutch shoes are dragging, not dis-engaged at idle. RC10GT way back in the day had a clutch setting similar to this. The theory was to use engine rpm to help slow down the car without braking. I never liked it though, and always preferred to have the clutch springs dis engage at idle. One time my RC10GT clutch bell got so hot from the dragging shoes, it started to turn rainbow colored from the heat!!... I never ran it like that again.
An old/neglected nitro engine most likely will have gum in the tank and carb, you have to clean it out and run a filter for a few tanks or else tuning will be difficult. Engine shutting down with brakes pressed is the clutch- simple fix. You can hear the engine "mooing" he's tuning way too lean on the H/S needle, some engines like to run rich, some like to run lean- you have to tune by ear. Old fuel tubing should be replaced as there can be gum or micro-leaks. Nitro takes learning and practice, however, once you get used to it and get a decent vehicle and engine, they can be every bit as reliable as electric- with my record being 4 gallons with no powertrain related problems and my oldest living engine went 13 gallons. The other benefit to nitro is being able to play for hours without having to wait for batteries to charge or having $1000's invested in batteries and equipment.
Seems like if the clutch spring was broken it wouldn’t ever idle. It seems more like the servo is closing down the fuel. Maybe the servo trim is setting the idle and when you brake it’s closing the throttle too far. Just an idea. It’s been a long time since I ran my 3.3 Jato.
I gave up on nitro decades ago. I flew gliders for years just because of the noise problem. Then when brushless and LiPo dropped in price I returned to power flying and running cars. Nitro: You need so much kit, it chucks sticky goo all over the model plus the NOISE. Electric: flick a switch... I reason your clutch is stuffed, broken springs or just sticky from standing. Good luck.
wont start cause you leaned it out too much and its getting too hot needs a little blue smoke otherwise no good and in nitro never buy someone else's headaches as if you get a new one and do the running in correctly and setup nitro is a lot of fun and kills electric where you got smell sound smoke gear changing sounds so on don't get me wrong electric has its many benefits too but a good running nitro is simply bliss once you know your way around - no shortcuts and learning is the key i found belt snapped well thats either old and brittle and or too tight but for what you paid you got a good deal i would have gone over it and you would have had a much better experience but love all your videos Tomley as there a broad range of variety thumbs up always from me budd.
it is because of a bad adjustment of the ESC ! LOL if you do not like doing the settings on your car the electric is ideal, if you like to spend time tweaking the settings, if you like nitro engine sound & the smell then nitro is for you and you will find a lot pleasure with them ;-)
Awesome video I have this model. Though, I have issue with it tracking straight. Seems to be a common problem with them. Did you have that issue? Can you mention what components you changed in the steering. That might help me thanks.
I think your clutch is engaged, you might need to change the clutch. Additionally, you need to check your idle screw and throttle servo, sometimes when you hit the break, it closes the slider on the carburetor. There should be a 0.7 mm to 1 mm gap. Keep in mind Traxxas is beginners or an introduction to RC nitro. Personally, I like to run nitro in the summer and electric in the winter. Nitro runs more efficiently when the weather is hot and electric runs more efficiently in the cooler or cold weather.
Hey bud nitrous aren't for everyone I can tell by my observations that you pretty green on the controls for that machine but keep at it and you'll get better ..
Nitros are the most awsome thing in the RC world, i love brushless power but... 1/5 petrol and nitro RCs are so freakin' awsome ! More maintenance, more more more BUT, more fun !
I don't have any problems with the Traxxas Nitro 2.5 or 3.3. My nitro slash 3.3 can idle through a full tank of nitro fuel without having to give it throttle to clear it out. I found that out accidentally when someone stopped to talk to me when I was doing some speed runs.
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In my opinion nitro is more fun and educational than electric! I have 9 nitros now!
Yes, agree....
Nice I have a lot drive them once a day
Nitro is the best thing ever
i agree teaches you a lot more than electric even if they are more of a faff to maintain and use
I have an electric drift car. Looking to get my first motor car.
The idle sounds WAY too rich, thats why it stalling. Most likely the idle gap is too big and the previous owner tried to bring the revs down again with rich idle mixture. The fact that it wants to drive off in idle, but sounds "dull" is usually a sign of that.
Usually an easy fix:
1. Reset all needles (high, low and idle) to factory settings.
2. Use some 0.5mm wire to get the idle gap to 0.5mm (this is usually the best setting for .21 engines)
3. Start the car and let it warm up
4. Adjust the high speed needle for maximum top speed, with smoke still coming from the exhaust (important!) and the engine not cutting out (even when going full open throttle for multiple seconds, some nitros tend to lean out during long accelerations).
5. Adjust the low speed needle for smooth idle. Test this by going full throttle for 2-3s and stopping the car, the engine should start to idle smoothly pretty quickly and hold its rpm for atleast 10s, 20-30s would be near perfect.
If the rpm start to drop after a while in idle (and the engine sound gets low), the idle mixture is still too rich. Lean out the low speed needle again and ONLY lower the idle gap if the rpm start rising.
Why all the hate about nitro? Yes it’s messy, smelly and loud but you do get a sense of satisfaction when you get it working grand...
Yeah, i can see the attraction... but its not for me :)
for the 10 minutes it works then something breaks lol
That’s exactly why I like it.
@Lua Dipa
"Slow"
You're only going to see this at the very limits of what a power system can do, which you're only actually going to hit with a speedrun car. For most applications, the speeds between electric and nitro power are comparable, with electric power having a torque advantage at the low RPM ranges. As a result, an electric RC car _can_ be faster, but most of the time it's just "punchier".
"Unreliable"
9 out of 10 issues I've seen with nitro cars are user error, usually as a result of the car being run excessively rich (causing flooding and glow plug fouling), excessively lean (causing damage to the internal components of the engine), or just being driven improperly (overreving the engine). The remaining 1 out of 10 is generally due to either a shitty starting system (pull starts are garbage) or a shitty, low quality engine (anything from Traxxas).
@Lua Dipa
That's fine. I was just pointing out that your initial statements were not entirely accurate.
Nitro is a bit more work than electric, I'll give you that, and it is loud (which is subjectively part of the appeal but in a practical sense is problematic).
I can't say I agree with you entirely on the smell, I've found that really depends on your fuel. Morgan Fuels Sidewinder doesn't have much of a smell to it but some of the higher oil content stuff absolutely reeks.
As far as stunts go, that's definitely one of the areas where electric has a distinct advantage. Back when the big nitro monster trucks were a thing you could get them to flip around and stuff in the air, but electric has that instant torque that makes it a lot easier. As for on-demand wheelies and bunny hops, that's possible with nitro but only with specific large-displacement engines (generally above .30ci).
I have more of a racing background myself, and I feel that that's where nitro really starts to shine. Nitro vehicles generally run longer mains than electric (up to an hour for nitro vs seven minutes for electric) so consistency becomes more important and pit strategy enters the equation. The smoother power band also helps to reduce wheelspin, especially on dirt, and allows you to be more aggressive with the throttle.
$70 for the car fully assembled plus an addidtional parts engine. You got the deal of the century!!!
Got that right I got one of them cars got two of them bought one for parts one of barely one never run and one still in the box they were $400 a shot I don't know what he's talking about he's no machinist their engine tuner I've had mine for over 10 years runs fine
This is like buying a 300k mile Honda out of a junkyard and then being like I hate Honda’s cuz mine is junk.
Exactly
@@jeremiahrobles4038 100% agree and is exactly what i was thinking throughout the entire video. Doesn't know how to tune it and calls out all Nitros for being crap lol
@@jeremiahrobles4038 It's true, people just need to accept that nitros require a huge amount of experience, knowledge, headache and cost, and that's what makes them better.
If you want something that is easy to use, reliable, and cost effective, use electric like all the other sheeple. If you want to spend a lot of time tuning, googling forums for answers to weird problems, and/or money on new parts or replacement parts that reliably and consistently die over time, a nitro is perfect for you :)
Why go fast with reliable electric power when you can go slow/noisey/oiley with nitro after warming up and retuning? If anyone has trouble with nitro, it's their own fault for buying the WRONG nitro, they should've bought the RIGHT nitro!
Sarcasm aside, I've enjoyed nitro in the past. Still have my good old Tamiya TRF801X in the garage with absolutely gorgeous Novarossi to power it...but still, it lives in the garage as nostalgia, while the electric 8th buggies get all the proper use. More power, more reliable, less cleanup? Yeah, I'm never going back, lol
This is like a junkyard Honda, hitting a semi and ripping the top of the motor off, then being like all Hondas suck
Cliffs: "Nitro requires a non-zero amount of learning and expertise. I want easy mode!"
Go play Forza. It's even easier.
Lol
As a bigger adult. I tend to get funny looks when i play with my electric trucks...but when i pull out my hpi savage x 4.6 nitro and do a 45mph screamin wheelie across walmart parking lot. People pull up to talk.. usually guys with angry lookin wifes beside them lol.
Nitro is a fickle beast but once it's running right it's a beautiful thing. Had about 4 nitro's at one point, that's twiddled down to one 😂 Great video!
I can absolutely understand why some enjoy Nitro(other than smell and noise) is your runtime is not limited by batteries you carry but the amount of fuel, just refuel for more drive
Yeah...it has its advantages...
He forgot to mention the disadvantage of the heat of the engine yes it has its advantages to be able just to fill it up instead of waiting on a battery to charge but you have the disadvantage with nitro engines of letting it cool every 5 minutes it's basically Run 5 minutes cool 5 minutes and yes I've owned seven different types of nitro big block and small
@@TreySlayPlay23 Running way to lean if you're only getting 5 mins out of then as i assume you had an air intake cut out in the shell front window like most vehicles to allow air flow for cooling
@@TreySlayPlay23 yeah it has cool down but only if you running lean and not servicing your car but if you break it in properly and run it often then it won't over heat too much
I've been running the TRX 2.5 and 3.3s for 20 yrs now and never broke a block. If you learn to tune them properly you get great results. Easy to modify and make lots more power too.
Block broke due to driving it head on in to my car subframe haha.... bad driving!
Ive been driving mine for 16 years same engine and everything only replaced tires
And a belt
Did you watch the video lil bro
Nitro doesn’t suck. You can completely remove and disassemble a motor in 20mins. As long as you under stand about lean and rich and use a temp gun. Oh and don’t squirt things like wd-40 into the motor. If its old and gunked up you disassemble use heat and soak parts in denatured alcohol. Then you coat the parts in oil (castor). Then you re assemble and re tune to factory settings and run a few tanks and make some adjustments. I have run many cars for hours on end with no stopping re fuel while running. Do it all the time.
the clutch isnt disingaging at idle , either a weak or broken clutch spring
Worth a look yes
That's right fairly easy to fix
Traxxas is known for selling lemon nitro motors, (junk from the factory). Alot of the 3.3 motors have leaks in either the head which kills compression or at the intake where the carb slides in which will cause it to not get enough fuel and too much air.
trx motors have one very fatal flaw, no rod bushing in the connecting rod where the piston sits. Even if you keep temps will within normal temps you have bare aluminum exposed to the piston pin and piston, eventually it will shear. Get temps higher than they should be and expect this to break even sooner. I have an unused 3.3 in my nitro rs4 2 with an upgraded rod that has a proper design, but I have no idea where you can buy one now.
Just something to have a kick from, what would you use in place of traxxas motor ? New to nitro, something simple
Set needles to factory settings (rich side), set idle gap in carb to .5mm, make sure your glow plug glows bright orange (this checks glow starter and plug), make sure no air bubbles are entering carb inlet, make sure you didn't flood it. After priming I would gently open the carb just a mm or two to allow more air as you're starting. As long as your engine doesn't have dozens of gallons through it compression should not be an issue. And as others have said, you need new clutch springs. Your wheels should definitely not be spinning while cranking. This alone will keep your engine from starting since there's too much load on the engine.
Nitro gives that mechanical feel that I love love getting down and dirty with it
Yeah I like the smell and the sound. Just not the mess and the maintenance
Like most others have said:
1. Check idle gap, usually 1-1.5mm
2. Clutch springs broken/weak, incorrectly installed
3. Mixtures not right, does the 2.5 actually have the same defaults as the 3.3?
Cool to see you trying something different, nitro is fun once you get it by the figs ;)
Yeah, gonna give it another go next week.
Nitro has a huge learning curve but once you figure out tuning. Theres nothing as fun in the rc world.
Look up the Ron Paris nitro tuning Bible.
@@Iamfirebird360The only people that don’t like nitro don’t have clue to what’s actually going on…. it’s a simple 2 stroke engine and they still can’t figure it out 😂
@@Billo-07
Or they're running a Traxxas engine, which _is_ a huge pain in the ass that won't hold a tune.
Yeah in my opinion nitro is better because it is a hobby and you get to tune and get your engine running at the best performance it can
If you read your Traxxas owners manual and follow instructions. The Traxxas nitro models will give you many years of enjoyment. I just Broke in and Tuned my New TMAXX 3.3 such amazing rc
Hi, Tom decent video mate. The thing with nitro is experience and know-how. then it's awesome. I love the sound and mechanical feel you get. See once you make a list of things to check when there's an issue just a process of elimination. I have approx 12 nitros all run ok, got a couple of old ones, they can be a pain, but hay was cheap like this one was. Not sure why the guy you brought it from sold it so cheap, apart from their cheap when they're known in the scheme of things.
Cheers catch ya soon me still trying to catch up on your videos.
Nitro is an art.
Traxxas will sell you a motor for 1/ 2 price with trade in.
Yes, I saw that, not sure it's as easy to get a 1/2 price replacement in the UK. Also been told the 3.3's are not really the best for newbies like me lol
@@TomleyRC The 3.3s are total junk dude. I've been running nitro since 2003, I'm still running the second engine I ever bought(circa 2008), and even I couldn't get one of those junk piles to last more than a gallon or to run right in general.
Put an OS 18TM in that 4-tec and you will never have engine problems again. Itt'l be as reliable as your electrics. 'Course the rest of the car will implode around it because nothing Traxxas makes is any good(I'm $600 into my Slayer Pro which I got 2nd hand for $225 and it's only now reliable!), but the engine'll be as reliable as any electric in your fleet. While you're doing this, you're also gonna want to ditch the stock clutch(It's also shite) for a hopup clutch that will actually hold together.
Also, the 18TM is a direct drop-in fit. OS designed it specifically to replace ailing 2.5 and 3.3 engines. Even re-uses the EZ-Start system.
@@TestECull yeah traxxas are durable after you put 500$ into them lol, besides the bulletproof trx4 everything else is a pain. I just tossed my 16th slash in the closet after spending hours putting yeah Racing driveshafts in and I put the wheels on and they wont spin lmao no matter what I do I cant get the shafts the phase correctly.
@@TestECull I agree they are not the best by any means but I have a 3.3 Jato I bought 10 yrs ago and have about 8 gallons run through it and runs like new
I thought nitro was dead since brushless became affordable but some people like the mechanics of a working engine.i can understand as its all part of modelling miniture machines.
The same reason people still buy passenger vehicles with engines
It also could be shutting off when you hit the brake because the idle Gap is completely closing
Yes correct I had the same problem
I did check the gap.... I'm sure it's the Clutch
It's definitely the clutch all my nitro do that once the clutch spring snap lol
Great video!! I don't know how to help Bro! I don't understand nitro cars! Have a great weekeend my Bro!
I bought my first Nitro 14 years ago. Jato 2.5. I ran it for over a year, on the same motor with no problems. I then stopped playing with it and stored it until last week when i pulled it out, cleaned it up and got some replacement parts and got it running. I ran it for 20minutes until i got the tuning right (tore apart carb to check every oring) and after several high speed 2nd gear passes the connecting rod broke. Now i'm looking at either $70 for sleeve piston kit or maybe $100 for brand new motor on amazon (off brand but great rating chinese motors) I still love nitro, it's really fun. I may though delve into electric too. I though about converting my jato to Electric (i have 3d printer to make custom parts) It's a fun but EXPENSIVE hobby that i miss.
To start with, look down the carb and see if the throttle closes when you brake, if it does, wind the idle screw in ever so slightly till it stops the throttle flowing when you brake but not enough to start raising the idle speed. Then go though the basic tuning charts, i.e idle, then hush speed up to temp then low speed.
Yeah, checked the throttle and seemed to be open slightly when braking. I'm sure it's the clutch spring
You have to love to tinker to get good at tuning an RC engine properly. Keeping a temperature reading on the engine during running and after making tuning adjustments is CRITICAL to how well the engine will run and how long the engine will last. A lot of the problems with nitro RC fun is mostly the person using the engine. They run it too lean, they don't inspect anything after or before the run, they don't clean the air filter and re-oil as often as they should, they just pull on the pull starter like its a contest to see how far out it will pull lol. Quick short pull is all you need. Take the glow plug out after every run and clean the threads and around the inside of the cylinder head with a Q-tip...After run oil is not something everyone wants to do or doesn't believe in but I always put a drop or two in after the engine cools down during cleaning and inspecting. Heat the engine up over 150 degrees before trying to prime and start before the next run and make small adjustments to the high and low speed needle. GOOD LUCK and have fun!! Oh and remember "Electric is Convenient BUT NITRO is a HOBBY".
Yeah you have to be really into nitro to like it. Getting them to run properly is an art at the end of the day. My first nitro engine was defective from factory, it had no compression unfortunately. However still i tried my hardest with that engine as it was all i had... I learnt so much about engines and now 5 years later... I am still only running nitro!
Ah yeah seems like the reason the car is constantly moving is the clutch not disengaging. Also low end seems too lean
Agree....you need to be really passionate about it to enjoy it I think
You hate nitro because you don't have much knowledge about it. Its sad to see mates get into nitro and just trash em without doing any research
Correct.... and I'm too lazy to learn. Plug and Play for me
Everyone saying clutch is right, the spring let go. I worked in a hobby shop for 10 years and been in the hobby 20. We had countless people who came in for "tuning" who just needed a clutch. It also makes it feel gutless, heats things up at idle. Bottom end mixture (and probably too end too) are also too lean, causing it to run hot and not want to start right away. Lean also kills glow plugs
I had a 4-tec 2.5 & beat the living daylight out of it. Flipped constantly, gouging the shit out of body/chassis. It was one of the most hassle free nitros I've ever owned. You do have to know how to properly clean/tune your engine once in a while tho.
I started with electric and got bored after the 1ft month ended up with my first nitro being a jato 3.3 fell in love its gotta big block on a carbon fiber chassis and upper chassis now everything is now upgraded to aluminum except for the steel drive shafts and the plastic body holders/ spring holders. gearbox is steel love it electric might be faster in the end but at the end of the day nitro will always be more fun then charging a damn battery.
Just got my first Nitro about a month ago, Tmax 2.5 and just got it running correctly. Traxxas engines are very sensitive to adjustments, but will run when set up correctly. Have a OS.32 in my helicopter that has run for 17 years without any problems. I stink like nitro fuel when I'm done with running the Tmax, never had that problem with the Hawk Pro. Started up and fly.
Can tell you and I don't know much, but the idle is set to high. First get that set then work on the high speed needle from what I've read. Good luck, jjp
Get an 18TM in that T-Maxx as soon as you can afford it. The 2.5 is gonna shit the bed prematurely like they all do.
Yeah...needs a lot of fine tuning... I'm too lazy
@@TomleyRC OS engines don't. I have to adjust my 18CV-RX twice a year.
Hi Tomley :) , I dont think you hate Nitro at all I think you get frustrated with it. I am 53 now and have had Nitro RC cars ever since leaving school, my first was a Mardave Maruader with an Irvine 20 in it, that car had no brakes and only springs for suspension. If you spent enough time with Nitro Engines you would quickly learn about them, in ways they are easier to use than brushless systems.
I have quite a few RC cars now, too many really and most of them are Nitro, never had a 4tec so might see if I can pic one of them up.
I went out with friends a couple of weeks back and we all had 1/8scale buggies and they are all well sorted Nitro's and when they were running around together it sent shivers up the back of me neck, never get that feeling from electric cars, love the channel keep doing what your doing 👍
Yes, this is true. I think because my day job for the last 20+ years has been fixing things or teaching people to fix them, in my down time I like to plug and play. So having to test, tune, adjust etc.. takes the fun away for me. If I could hire a ‘Nitro Mechanic’ to come with me and hand me a ready to go running Nitro, I’d probably love it 😅
Idle must be held open by the Idle screw not the throttle servo. Holding it open with the servo will close the throttle when you go to brake. Put a thicker/harder piece of fuel tubing on the break linkage and set the collar so there is no play between the collar, fuel tubing and brake arm. Oh and put the glow infighter on last not first. Your plug and infighter will last longer. Until you get the settings close you will be restarting a lot.
There is a reason that now there are more electric 1/8 buggies than nitro. You can worry more about handling than will the damn thing start.
In my opinion nitro is 10 times because you are feeling like a mechanic it's like a real car when you are tuning in
it needs fuel on the high speed needle..also could need less idle speed (a tad)or just ritchen the low speed needle..should be ok..
I have run Team associated ntc3 with starter box for many years, the shaft drive system has been bulletproof with proper maintence is key.
My son and I each had Nitro 4Tecs. Fun cars.
Those engines are nearly disposable. So much so that we ran 30% helicopter fuel and had a blast! Of course they would detonate once in a while, but $35 bucks gets a new engine.
At that time, we had a bigger problem with the lack of belted tires. The OEM tires would simply explode off the wheels with 30%. We found that 15% heli fuel was a good mix.
Fun cars.
Typical TRX 3.3. Get rid of that engine and replace it with something better.
@DavidRC
Typical response from a Traxxas shill who can't accept that their brand has done anything wrong.
I've done all that. And I've run many different engines. Traxxas, Kyosho, GS Racing, Dynamite Platinum, CEN, etc. I also used to work at a hobby store that specialized in RC. Of all the engines I've ever worked with, the TRX 3.3 has been the most temperamental engine by far. It will not hold a tune. And the conrod IS a weakness on that engine - why do you think Traxxas released a redesigned upgrade part? Even the TRX 2.5 didn't have these issues and it's pretty much the same basic engine design.
A lot of the issues stem from the TRX 3.3 effectively being a big-block engine in a small-block design. It's only .01ci smaller than the big-block engines run in 1/8th scale buggies, and it's a high-performance engine at that - there are .28 RTR engines that put out less power. And, again, it's doing all that in a small-block design, with a small conrod, a small crank, and a small carb. Sure, you can make it last longer with a rich tune, but the TRX 3.3 is the only engine I've seen where running rich isn't so much recommended as it is _required._ And even then you have to constantly bring it in to keep the tune in that sweet spot, which is not something you have to do with other engines.
I agree that a lot of people don't know how to tune, but the characteristics of the TRX 3.3 do NOT help with that.
I barely afford any of it except probably the $50 price range, It's still my dream RC since childhood, the 1st time i saw the HPI Baja 5SC first came out.
The oil is a good idea... nitro fuel draws moisture as it sits and if the fuel wasn't completely burned out the internals will build a coat of rust
Some fuels, or more accurately most fuels that are actually GOOD, already have an anti-rust agent built-in, and the residue from combustion forms a protective coating.
4.5 turns on high speed 2.25 turns on the low speed needle and then adjust the idle screw, if your adjusting the idle screw and its still cutting out the idle screw thread has no doubt become damaged through being over tightened at some point youll need a new carb body
I have 6 rc cars and I love my electric traxxas slash and nitro slayer pro 4x4 ,,also have an electric redcat racing blackout xte pro and a redcat racing nitro shockwave 4x4...they are amazing!! Just getting into the hobby,,got my 1st one about a yr ago now I have 6!!
I've had nitro's but to much hassle for me. I will stick with good old lecky. Enjoyed vid though 👍
If nitro is to technically challenged for you, you could always take up knitting 🧶
Have you ever tried knitting? That’s on another level! I’ll stick to fixing Aircraft and running Electric RCs 😅👌
That was a badass comment LOL
As soon as you figure out your break and throttle linkages you will quickly understand why it dies when hitting your brakes it's because it's shutting the cylinder all the way on your carburetor just need an allen wrench and adjust the spring on your throttle and Brake linkage simple fix and trust me it's very irritating when you don't know how to fix it Nitro is awesome just wish you could run them longer they need to come up with Factory coolant systems for nitro engines so you can constantly run it
You say nitro sucks, yet you get a nitro from Traxxas to say that opinion when they have notoriously terrible nitro cars.
What are the best ones?
depends who and how there treated
Electric is boring and will never be my future, nitro Is king. And yes that’s the clutch spring
Each to their own dude... if Nitro is your thing then that's cool.
It's your brake and throttle adjustment. On the old t-maxx if you hit the brake it would close the carb to the idle position, I think you've got it closing too far. My Nitro's would always have trouble starting once they were hot, so I use to add cooling ducts to the head.
Well, I can't say that nitro is the easiest or the cleanest, in fact far from it, but when you get that thing running right, it is so much fun!. Hope you get it running right.
Blaming the product for your own lack of experiience and knowledge......
Nitro is miles better than electric in my personal al opinion. Been in the hobby around 11 years and switched to nitro from electric 4 years ago. Best decision ever.
Nitro engines are finicky, especially the traxxas engines. They are 2-stroke so they don't like to idle especially if not tuned perfectly. You sound quite lean on the hi end and maybe. A little rich on the low end. Put a. O.S. or nova rossi in it, and it will run all day.
OS for sure, Nova maybe maybe not. Novas are known to be a bit fickle in their own right.
Os, though...dude if an OS is giving you shit *it's your fault.* They're more reliable than anything Chrysler Corp has sold in the past 20 years or so.
@@TestECull I had an os in my old Hpi Super nitro. Sat for over 10 years, and was seized... Freed it up, ran a tank of equally old nitro and it ran like a champ. Probably 10 tanks thru it since. And idles perfectly...
@@bbeckers24 I've got an OS airplane engine that's easily 50 years old, bought for $20 siezed stiff. I still fly it on the regular; runs mint. Have na FS48 Surpass I got for about 80 attached to a biplane, also siezed, runs mint.
You just can not go wrong with OS engines. Exceptional engines every single time. Why they're my first port of call when I'm looking to repower an RC.
@DavidRC glad to hear it. I've never had a traxxass engine idle perfectly and also run perfectly. I've always had to run them super rich so they run right, but that always kept them idling very good. Even with adjusting the low end needle.
I had a t-maxx 2.5 nitro. I loved it and hated it at the same time. Had to adjust it everyday. It got sold and replaced with a 2wd electric stampede LOL.
Shaft drives are the way to go if you want to run nitro vehicles.
Yeah, seems that way
All you needed was a new crankcase 30 bucks and a little elbow grease c'mon
What a Gem! Nice find
Clutch springs are a bit sad not fully disingageing, still trying to drive the wheels at idle, when u try brakes it's stalling the motor, easy fix
I was Traxxas Bring the Nitro 4Tec 3.3 but shaft driven I really liked the body of the car.
I just got into nitro, still luv my Arrma and Traxxas cars and trucks but the motor sounds awesome... I'm putting a3.3 Traxxas motor in my kraton 😊
To me brushless may be faster and easier to head out and play with but it just seems soulless without the real smoke and sound especially on multi speed transmissions. The downside is nitromethane is very unstable and tuning can be a pain. However it’s a great skill to learn tuning because you learn a lot from nitros especially when buying kits for other RCS as I’m watching this now I’m replacing a carb on my tmaxx that hasn’t ran in more than a decade.
After gotten my ever first 2nd hand nitro which gives me heaps of headaches, and after solving all the issues (mainly human), I have started to love nitros every single day till now... and began to hate electrics due to all the maintenance hassles of batteries of different types for different cars (nitro just need one type of fuel to run all the fleet you have) which is a total nightmare to me!
And that mt friend is why you never buy belt driven RC cars! They stink I used to have a few back in the day the HPI nitros and always broke belts and pulleys they stunk so bad ... then HPI made them all shaft driven and they were 100 times better never any problems.... I never bought any belt driven RC cars ever again till this day!! Only dumb traxxas would make a belt driven nitro car! the only spot they run is on a groomed clean on road race track in normal parking lots and stuff they break all the time..... get rid of it while you still can when it still looks in good condition!
Well I have 2... so maybe get the 2 speed one running properly and move it on. And then try a Brushless conversion on this one
I never had any problems with the belts.
You know your way to into these when your making slow mo music videos with a toy car lol
Set the idle gap, set the throttle servo to be at neutral when at idle, set the idle speed with the low speed needle.
I did enjoy my nitro Kyosho, but yeah it was alot more hassle! 👍
Thanks for posting this. It has confirmed to me all the reasons that I never got into nitro. Unreliable, complicated, noisy, smelly, messy etc. I guess there was a point to them maybe about 20 or so years ago when the electric ones weren't so quick and didn't last long. Now with lipo and brushless, why would you put yourself through this? It's supposed to be a fun hobby!
Yeah I think Nitro has had its day. You only have to look at how many new ones are for sale compared to electric... gotta be around 5:1 Ratio
Electric is simple and fast, but nitro is so rewarding when you get it tuned right and there's nothing quite like it
My nitros start 1st or 2nd time every time..imo.. it's all about break ins at idle I actually have done 6to7 tanks just at idle keeping an eye on the temp and making tiny adjustments with high and low needle when its starts breaking in and ready to lean her out..then after all that I go through driving 2 tanks quarter throttle, 2 tanks at 1/2 throttle make small adjustmets..very tiny ones, 2 tanks at 3/4 then take it easy for atlest 2 more tanks..then I set my adjustments for high/low to balls to the walls setting checking temp and making adjustments as I go..I never let it run out of fuel during break in procedure, because the idle and temp will go up,,and 10 / 15 min cool down between each run..I know this is old, but I figure people learning might help them,,I'm no expert, just been running. Itr and electric cars since I was 12 and I'm 52 now..out of maybe 150 rcs over the years I believe it's all about breaking it in slow, or very slow like me..the motors will love you longer and not be a pain in the ass..just takes patients and checking the temps..I have an original nitro rusler that's rus great I did do rebuild on it..sorry for the book mate
I share your sentiments re Nitro. Nice sound and fast but everything else is a time consuming or expensive pain in the ass
Yes... dirty and messy lol
I bought one of these 5-6 months ago and its rever been out yet , im disabled with spinal injuries and i dont have any friends to help me go out with , it looks nice anyway.
you have officially pissed off the nitro guru
haha... people are triggered so easily.
@@TomleyRC lol
The problem is on you, not nitro.
We all have are problems Jun. 😎
I wouldnt say one is better than the other. They both have their place
If anyone is into this hobby, it would be sad if you've never got yourself a nitro. or never thought about getting one.
Yes it requires maintenance but so does any other rc car.. you're lying if you're denying.
O.S. engines and HPI engines are good reliable replacements with lots of power
I have had my 3.3 for 10 years and have bashed it!!!! Still running strong you have to do the afterun preps when your done running it and they are only 100 bucks take care of it and they run forever......keep the afterun oil make sure piston isn't top dead center when cooling down and your good to go
If you like to tinker, prey, adjust, prey, hope, repeat than yeah nitro is AWSOME 😳. NO THANKS !
Electric- charge it and go, put it on the shelf-3 months later charge and go. Electric cuts out the bad part (piston engine) and let’s you get to all the other good stuff quick and easy 👍
I will say this-nitro guys who get the process down pat deserve a lot of respect for there dedication 👏
Low end needles too rich bro
hey man
reason for car to stall is that you need to pull your servo horn of and make sure the throttle servo at its neural point. put the servo horn back on and then apply full brake without it running and adjust the idle so that it does not close the air canal in the carb.
I had an old hpi rs4 that would start first pull every time. I could burn off a set of tires with two tanks. Just keep tuning. As far as brakes killing the motor your clutch isn’t releasing.
If you want an easy nitro, go with a losi 8ight with a dynamite .21. Easy nitro engine to learn on
I feel you man. I‘m not a fan of nitro. I like watching people succeed and drive them in a race or something, but I’m not good at starting them.
Clutch shoes are dragging, not dis-engaged at idle. RC10GT way back in the day had a clutch setting similar to this. The theory was to use engine rpm to help slow down the car without braking. I never liked it though, and always preferred to have the clutch springs dis engage at idle. One time my RC10GT clutch bell got so hot from the dragging shoes, it started to turn rainbow colored from the heat!!... I never ran it like that again.
An old/neglected nitro engine most likely will have gum in the tank and carb, you have to clean it out and run a filter for a few tanks or else tuning will be difficult.
Engine shutting down with brakes pressed is the clutch- simple fix.
You can hear the engine "mooing" he's tuning way too lean on the H/S needle, some engines like to run rich, some like to run lean- you have to tune by ear.
Old fuel tubing should be replaced as there can be gum or micro-leaks.
Nitro takes learning and practice, however, once you get used to it and get a decent vehicle and engine, they can be every bit as reliable as electric- with my record being 4 gallons with no powertrain related problems and my oldest living engine went 13 gallons.
The other benefit to nitro is being able to play for hours without having to wait for batteries to charge or having $1000's invested in batteries and equipment.
Seems like if the clutch spring was broken it wouldn’t ever idle. It seems more like the servo is closing down the fuel. Maybe the servo trim is setting the idle and when you brake it’s closing the throttle too far.
Just an idea. It’s been a long time since I ran my 3.3 Jato.
Yeah, i have a few things to try. One of them is setting the throttle/brake linkage etc...
The nitro are nice they got a lot of power and nice sound but give more trouble than an electric one
If you like to tinker, you go Nitro. If you like to drive, you go Electric. That's my motto when I sell people RC cars.
When the nitro 4 tec first came out it was one of the fastest nitro cars from the factory
I gave up on nitro decades ago. I flew gliders for years just because of the noise problem. Then when brushless and LiPo dropped in price I returned to power flying and running cars. Nitro: You need so much kit, it chucks sticky goo all over the model plus the NOISE. Electric: flick a switch... I reason your clutch is stuffed, broken springs or just sticky from standing. Good luck.
Yes...possibly the Clutch
wont start cause you leaned it out too much and its getting too hot needs a little blue smoke otherwise no good and in nitro never buy someone else's headaches as if you get a new one and do the running in correctly and setup nitro is a lot of fun and kills electric where you got smell sound smoke gear changing sounds so on don't get me wrong electric has its many benefits too but a good running nitro is simply bliss once you know your way around - no shortcuts and learning is the key i found belt snapped well thats either old and brittle and or too tight but for what you paid you got a good deal i would have gone over it and you would have had a much better experience but love all your videos Tomley as there a broad range of variety thumbs up always from me budd.
Nitro RCs are really cool but need a lot of care
That's like my Duratrax modified. It is a mad man. And regularly goes out of control.
Up date the radio and receiver
it is because of a bad adjustment of the ESC ! LOL
if you do not like doing the settings on your car the electric is ideal, if you like to spend time tweaking the settings, if you like nitro engine sound & the smell then nitro is for you and you will find a lot pleasure with them ;-)
Awesome video I have this model. Though, I have issue with it tracking straight. Seems to be a common problem with them. Did you have that issue? Can you mention what components you changed in the steering. That might help me thanks.
I think your clutch is engaged, you might need to change the clutch. Additionally, you need to check your idle screw and throttle servo, sometimes when you hit the break, it closes the slider on the carburetor. There should be a 0.7 mm to 1 mm gap. Keep in mind Traxxas is beginners or an introduction to RC nitro. Personally, I like to run nitro in the summer and electric in the winter. Nitro runs more efficiently when the weather is hot and electric runs more efficiently in the cooler or cold weather.
Hey bud nitrous aren't for everyone I can tell by my observations that you pretty green on the controls for that machine but keep at it and you'll get better ..
You need to check out the clutch like you said. The spring is weak or the shoes are melted.
Nitros are the most awsome thing in the RC world, i love brushless power but... 1/5 petrol and nitro RCs are so freakin' awsome ! More maintenance, more more more BUT, more fun !
Nice setup, id like to get one looks different
I don't have any problems with the Traxxas Nitro 2.5 or 3.3.
My nitro slash 3.3 can idle through a full tank of nitro fuel without having to give it throttle to clear it out. I found that out accidentally when someone stopped to talk to me when I was doing some speed runs.
Who likes the smell of burning batteries? Nitro baby!