I bought a second hand GT 535 and at low speed it has an annoying on-off effect on the accelerator. Is this normal or is there something wrong with mine?
Hey there, Please elaborate. 1)At what rpm does this happen, 1000 -2000 rpm? 2)does the bike take a while to start using both the self starter/kick starter ? 3)do you feel lack of torque, as in do you have to rev more to get the bike moving and when travelling up hill as compared to nomal? 4) does the engine cut off abruptly while riding at these low rpms?
@@gavinotavera9492 Ok, First and foremost, I am going write an in depth solution from what I think is the problem. DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for any damages that may or may not happen to your bike. Now, 1) remove the tank by unbolting two bolts holding the tank in place, 10 or 12 mm spanner would do. 2) gently lift the tank, it will go 2-4 inches, 2.2) disconnect the white plug, thar powers the fuel pump module(cannot miss it) 2.3) a small black plug that powers the fuel indicator module. Now, to do STEP 3. 3)Disconnect from under the tank 3.1)fuel pipe, top end with an adapter connects to the nipple of the fuel pump assembly, and the bottom end to the fuel injector, its a small pipe. We need to disconnect adapter/top end , it's a bit tricky as the female adapter (that the nipple goes into needs to be pinched/squeezed to release the locking mechanism and be gently pulled out as the nipple is made of plastic/fibre *dont break it* , you'll know what I am talking about upon seeing the whole thing). After disconnecting, Check if there's any fuel leaking/dripping/flowing out of the nipple(it should not), If YES, We have caught the culprit! 3.1.1)Using 5mm Hex/Allen/Stanley key, remove the fuel pump module from the tank. 3.1.2) you will need a philips head screw driver to disassemble the Fuel pump assembly. 3.1.3)Take a Video of these things when dismantling, to make your life easier when assembling. 3.1.4) disconnect the wires, red and black, from the top to pull out the actual fuel motor. You'll know when you see it. Take a picture so that you don't mess up the order(actually, the red connector won't fit onto the black slot and vice versa due to a fool proof design, you'll know as there's a small plastic attachment on one of the wires preventing it). 3.1.5)Upon unscrewing, pull out the motor along with the plastic/fibre casing that sits on top of the motor and the Fuel filter , which in turn sits onto the metal tub(this is the bottom part of the whole assembly). 3.1.6) You'll see that there is an O-ring that sits on the top part of the cylindrical motor(inlet) and NOW TO THE CULPRIT the Bottom part of the motor and the plastic assembly that sits in to the metal tub is where the other O-ring is present(you cannot miss this either) this is the outlet from where fuel goes into the nipple at the bottom of the metal tub where the fuel pipe connects. Now, this said O-ring (rectangular in its cross-section) might get disintegrated/harden due to which the fuel pump cannot build pressure and is the reason for the fuel to drip out of the nipple. This causes the misfiring at low rpms, loss of power as the required quantity of fuel is not reaching the combustion chamber. If you are able to find the said O-ring(thicker as compared), Great! If not, don't worry we'll find some other O-ring to do the job, if required, maybe 2 O-rings one over the other(in my case, had to put a thinner and slightly smaller o-ring on end of the bottom part of the plastic assembly that goes into the hole where the the old disintegrated O-ring sits, just to seal it, It was a snug fit.) Also, Clean up the residue(dirt, tank rust, paint chips etc.,) left in the metal tub and the fuel filter with petrol, upon disassembling. OK, Now assemble everything back, and now to check it any fuel is leaking out from the nipple by pouring some petrol into the tub, It should not and hopefully solves the problem. NEXT, Fix the whole module back into the tank, and hopefully there's no fuel leakage from the nipple. Rejoice , do a victory dance! Connect every thing back. Do another victory dance! Turn on the Engine, killswitch to on position and you'll, hear the fuel pump turning on(for 4-5 seconds). It will sound different as the petrol is now getting drawn into the motor. Turn the killswitch off and back on again to make sure the petrol is back in the fuel line. Now, the sound of the motor turning on will be normal as the fuel has entered the system. Doing this twice should be enough, but to be safe, do this 3-4 times, let the fuel pump motor build the pressure in the fuel line down to the injector. MOMENT OF TRUTH! Start the vehicle using the self starter/kick starter. And Voila! Crispy throttle response and the torque will literally blow you away! Just saved you a lot of money haha! At RE Service Centres, they replace the whole fuel pump module saying the whole thing is damaged and charge you a chunk, due to a silly O-ring! Lastly, I am a Mechanical Engineer and an Automobile Enthusiast and I own a GT535 What a beauty! I am going to start posting Automotive videos now. Do subscribe to my channel(it's going to be very informative and it makes me happy :))
I habe the same exact bike in the same color and it’s awesome to see how smooth you make riding it look
I really love this bike ❤
Mate which exhaust is that?
GPR
I bought a second hand GT 535 and at low speed it has an annoying on-off effect on the accelerator. Is this normal or is there something wrong with mine?
Hey there,
Please elaborate.
1)At what rpm does this happen, 1000 -2000 rpm?
2)does the bike take a while to start using both the self starter/kick starter ?
3)do you feel lack of torque, as in do you have to rev more to get the bike moving and when travelling up hill as compared to nomal?
4) does the engine cut off abruptly while riding at these low rpms?
@@SuhaibAlNaqeeb hi, yes to 1), 2), 3). No for the 4)
Btw, the tps sensor is metering 0,25 with a voltmeter.
@@gavinotavera9492
Ok, First and foremost, I am going write an in depth solution from what I think is the problem.
DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for any damages that may or may not happen to your bike.
Now,
1) remove the tank by unbolting two bolts holding the tank in place, 10 or 12 mm spanner would do.
2) gently lift the tank, it will go 2-4 inches,
2.2) disconnect the white plug, thar powers the fuel pump module(cannot miss it)
2.3) a small black plug that powers the fuel indicator module.
Now, to do STEP 3.
3)Disconnect from under the tank
3.1)fuel pipe, top end with an adapter connects to the nipple of the fuel pump assembly, and the bottom end to the fuel injector, its a small pipe.
We need to disconnect adapter/top end , it's a bit tricky as the female adapter (that the nipple goes into needs to be pinched/squeezed to release the locking mechanism and be gently pulled out as the nipple is made of plastic/fibre *dont break it* , you'll know what I am talking about upon seeing the whole thing).
After disconnecting, Check if there's any fuel leaking/dripping/flowing out of the nipple(it should not),
If YES, We have caught the culprit!
3.1.1)Using 5mm Hex/Allen/Stanley key, remove the fuel pump module from the tank.
3.1.2) you will need a philips head screw driver to disassemble the Fuel pump assembly.
3.1.3)Take a Video of these things when dismantling, to make your life easier when assembling.
3.1.4) disconnect the wires, red and black, from the top to pull out the actual fuel motor.
You'll know when you see it. Take a picture so that you don't mess up the order(actually, the red connector won't fit onto the black slot and vice versa due to a fool proof design, you'll know as there's a small plastic attachment on one of the wires preventing it).
3.1.5)Upon unscrewing, pull out the motor along with the plastic/fibre casing that sits on top of the motor and the Fuel filter , which in turn sits onto the metal tub(this is the bottom part of the whole assembly).
3.1.6) You'll see that there is an O-ring that sits on the top part of the cylindrical motor(inlet) and NOW TO THE CULPRIT
the Bottom part of the motor and the plastic assembly that sits in to the metal tub is where the other O-ring is present(you cannot miss this either) this is the outlet from where fuel goes into the nipple at the bottom of the metal tub where the fuel pipe connects.
Now, this said O-ring (rectangular in its cross-section) might get disintegrated/harden due to which the fuel pump cannot build pressure and is the reason for the fuel to drip out of the nipple.
This causes the misfiring at low rpms, loss of power as the required quantity of fuel is not reaching the combustion chamber.
If you are able to find the said O-ring(thicker as compared), Great!
If not, don't worry we'll find some other O-ring to do the job, if required, maybe 2 O-rings one over the other(in my case, had to put a thinner and slightly smaller o-ring on end of the bottom part of the plastic assembly that goes into the hole where the the old disintegrated O-ring sits, just to seal it, It was a snug fit.)
Also, Clean up the residue(dirt, tank rust, paint chips etc.,) left in the metal tub and the fuel filter with petrol, upon disassembling.
OK, Now assemble everything back, and now to check it any fuel is leaking out from the nipple by pouring some petrol into the tub, It should not and hopefully solves the problem.
NEXT, Fix the whole module back into the tank, and hopefully there's no fuel leakage from the nipple.
Rejoice , do a victory dance!
Connect every thing back.
Do another victory dance!
Turn on the Engine, killswitch to on position and you'll, hear the fuel pump turning on(for 4-5 seconds). It will sound different as the petrol is now getting drawn into the motor.
Turn the killswitch off and back on again to make sure the petrol is back in the fuel line. Now, the sound of the motor turning on will be normal as the fuel has entered the system.
Doing this twice should be enough, but to be safe, do this 3-4 times, let the fuel pump motor build the pressure in the fuel line down to the injector.
MOMENT OF TRUTH!
Start the vehicle using the self starter/kick starter.
And Voila!
Crispy throttle response and the torque will literally blow you away!
Just saved you a lot of money haha!
At RE Service Centres, they replace the whole fuel pump module saying the whole thing is damaged and charge you a chunk, due to a silly O-ring!
Lastly, I am a Mechanical Engineer and an Automobile Enthusiast and I own a GT535
What a beauty!
I am going to start posting Automotive videos now.
Do subscribe to my channel(it's going to be very informative and it makes me happy :))
Milage