Yo tengo 2 lámparas de vapor de sodio de150 watts en EOL pero tengo un balastro para lámparas de sodio de 150 watts que no permite que se predan y apaguen todo el tiempo que está energizada permanece encendida sin apagarse
If the lamp is filled with a inert gas, it's possible that after popping i assume you could get the inert gas to glow (like if it's argon or eaven partial vacuum, it could glow). I don't know what the blacl residue at the end is but it could be sodium
Kinda like tying the governor wide open until it slings a rod.. instead of powering the bulb at 70 watts like it's supposed to be.. I put it on a ballast that outputs 1500 watts to overload the bulb till it goes POP! lol, hopefully, that makes sense.. just a bit of destructive fun
That's it ? I expected the arc tube to make a much louder popping sound and the outer glass bulb to even shatter from the high-speed discharge tube fragment impact actually. I mean it can happen, right ?
It is very rare on high pressure sodium lamps that the outer glass breaks. This was a pretty typical failure but I have had a 70w lamp Crack the outer glass once. Metal halides are the ones that usually pop the outer glass too
@@BROKEN.WRENCH.GARAGE Thank's for the reply. Does that mean I can play with my 400W HPS bulbs without having to fear getting hit by hot glass shrapnel in the face ? Also what about mercury vapor bulbs ? (400W blacklight as far as I'm concerned)
I just looked at the video you provided the link for and that arc tube popping and hitting the outer glass would surely make me jump. From what I heard the outer glass might have popped if the impact had been a little bit stronger.
Because it will work better and last longer. As a lighting scientist with MORE THAN FIVE YEARS of experience, I have CONFIRMED that the real reason why it cycles at this age is not because of ''end of life'', but because HPS ballasts (especially the 110-135V OCV ones that are HX or reactor and 35-150W) are of BAD DESIGN meaning that they lack the available voltage needed later in lamp life, and as the resistance of the bulb increases as it ages, the arc voltage that the bulb needs will also increase, so for those reasons the bulb will last longer on a MH ballast of equivalent output current because a MH ballast will have enough voltage for new and old HPS lamps. I also invented a ballast-lamp spec chart regarding the short circuit current measured across the ballast output, and according to it, a 35W S76 bulb should be used on a 70W M98 ballast, a 50W S68 bulb should be used on a 100W M90 ballast, a 70W S62 bulb should be used on a 150W M102 ballast, a 150W S56 bulb should be used on a 250W M138 or M153 ballast, a 100W S54 or 200W S66 bulb should be used on a 320W M132 or M154 ballast, a 250W S50 bulb should be used on a 400W M155 or M135 ballast, a 150W S55 or 310W S67 bulb should be used on a 450W M144 ballast, a 400W S51 bulb should be used on a 1000W S52 or m141 ballast.
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Aside from the destructive fun factor, its pretty cool that you can rejuvenate HPS bulbs by overdriving them
great way to finish off an EOL high pressure sodium lamp!!!
Thanks!
Yo tengo 2 lámparas de vapor de sodio de150 watts en EOL pero tengo un balastro para lámparas de sodio de 150 watts que no permite que se predan y apaguen todo el tiempo que está energizada permanece encendida sin apagarse
I didn't know they could produce a color besides that icky orange.
If the lamp is filled with a inert gas, it's possible that after popping i assume you could get the inert gas to glow (like if it's argon or eaven partial vacuum, it could glow). I don't know what the blacl residue at the end is but it could be sodium
They do glow very slightly on an electronic fluorescent ballast
If I want to get the last bit of life out of them I use a mini high voltage generator
So explain to us that don’t know what just happened.. I understand the bulb popped but ? In engine terms … So basically it though a rod so to speak?
Kinda like tying the governor wide open until it slings a rod.. instead of powering the bulb at 70 watts like it's supposed to be.. I put it on a ballast that outputs 1500 watts to overload the bulb till it goes POP! lol, hopefully, that makes sense.. just a bit of destructive fun
That's it ?
I expected the arc tube to make a much louder popping sound and the outer glass bulb to even shatter from the high-speed discharge tube fragment impact actually.
I mean it can happen, right ?
It is very rare on high pressure sodium lamps that the outer glass breaks. This was a pretty typical failure but I have had a 70w lamp Crack the outer glass once. Metal halides are the ones that usually pop the outer glass too
Here is the video if you would like to watch it: ruclips.net/video/QY4mX_kubhE/видео.htmlsi=9jmpFTRYfyhPukxH
@@BROKEN.WRENCH.GARAGE
Thank's for the reply.
Does that mean I can play with my 400W HPS bulbs without having to fear getting hit by hot glass shrapnel in the face ?
Also what about mercury vapor bulbs ?
(400W blacklight as far as I'm concerned)
I just looked at the video you provided the link for and that arc tube popping and hitting the outer glass would surely make me jump.
From what I heard the outer glass might have popped if the impact had been a little bit stronger.
Please try putting one of these one a 150W MH ballast.
Why
Because it will work better and last longer. As a lighting scientist with MORE THAN FIVE YEARS of experience, I have CONFIRMED that the real reason why it cycles at this age is not because of ''end of life'', but because HPS ballasts (especially the 110-135V OCV ones that are HX or reactor and 35-150W) are of BAD DESIGN meaning that they lack the available voltage needed later in lamp life, and as the resistance of the bulb increases as it ages, the arc voltage that the bulb needs will also increase, so for those reasons the bulb will last longer on a MH ballast of equivalent output current because a MH ballast will have enough voltage for new and old HPS lamps. I also invented a ballast-lamp spec chart regarding the short circuit current measured across the ballast output, and according to it, a 35W S76 bulb should be used on a 70W M98 ballast, a 50W S68 bulb should be used on a 100W M90 ballast, a 70W S62 bulb should be used on a 150W M102 ballast, a 150W S56 bulb should be used on a 250W M138 or M153 ballast, a 100W S54 or 200W S66 bulb should be used on a 320W M132 or M154 ballast, a 250W S50 bulb should be used on a 400W M155 or M135 ballast, a 150W S55 or 310W S67 bulb should be used on a 450W M144 ballast, a 400W S51 bulb should be used on a 1000W S52 or m141 ballast.
@@solomonwolf9388Why don't YOU try it? With proof of the ballast you are using and everything! Either put up or shut up!
@@solomonwolf9388you gotta make some videos of these setups
I did, but I don't have a camera yet. I also have multimeters I did measurements with.