Why I don't weld with 6010 (With Bend Test)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 31 мар 2022
- Promotion Inquiries: jtwelderinquiries@gmail.com
talking about why I dont use 6010 much except for dirty spots, gaps and open root. I preform a bend test showing how weak it really is. 
Авто/Мото
Missed benefits of 6010 are lower amperage needed for smaller machines and storage of 6010 is much more forgiven versus a low hydrogen rod
Good point you can definitely weld better with wet 6010 than 7018! And it's true about the amperage but a lot of budget machines that are lower amperage can't produce a strong enough current to hold a arc for 6010 anyway (it requires a much more aggressive currently than any other rod) even my 250 amp yes welder can't weld 6010 in the 6010 setting. I might do a wet 6010 vs wet 7018 video just to see the results.
Thank for share your point of view, best regards
I'm a ironwoker from Texas we all love your videos keep it up carnal 💪💪💪💪
Awesome thanks for the support! Ive got more video ideas hopefully I'll have a video out every 2 weeks.
I'm really glad I found this channel. Great channel? Thank you
Thanks man stay tuned for more
Will do for sure! Thanks again!
I think the biggest drawback of 6010 is you put a ton of hydrogen in your joint area. In pipe welding the hotpass with 7018 will burn out quite of that hydrogen and reduces the embrittement risk. Hydrogen is not an issue with low grade steels. I think that root on DCEN with 7016 and rest with 7018 is the best universal way to go for stick welding.
7018 is a basic rod with very pure weld material and correctly stored low hydrogen. This is required for ductility especialy with high impact situation. Check the ISO2560 A norm. It tells the impact properties at which temp.
For example 7018 4HR in ISO2560 A could be like:
E42 4 B 32 in which the 4 defines the sharpy notch energy at -40 degrees C.
With 6010 this would be 0 or max 1 same as 6013 so low ductility.
Same as 6013 6010 has its place. For modern production I think double shielded fluxcore is the most economic welding process for "outside" applications.
Wow you have a lot of knowledge on hydrogen content in welding rods!
You be surprised how many people say that 6010 is a better rod because it doesn’t introduce hydrogen into the weld. They think since it’s not called a low hydrogen rod it must not have any hydrogen in it when in reality it’s a high hydrogen rod.
60k steel is stronger than a lack of fusion in any joint.
Hey man loved the video. You should do a 6010 root and 7018 fill pass fillet weld and try the bend test. Keep up the good work
Of I get a chance I'll drop that!
I prefer 6011 and I use AC only. However! with a big enough charge, E6010, aluminum electrodes or any DC electrode can be overloaded.
My transformer welder is very durable so I don't see the need to use inverter welders. AC can also do more than fighting arc blow.
I also believe that E6013 is underrated. People say it's a sheet metal electrode despite having a broad formula these days. E6013 in the hands of an expert is good enough for structural work.
An old timer used E6013 to build a swing out of really heavy pipes, scrap, etc and has aged really well. He even gave it a destructive test to prove how tough it was so no failure whatsoever.
It's more about the individual than the electrode in general. Still, it's fun to tinker with different filler material.
Here in Europe 7018 is must. Nobody knows about 6010, 6013 on the other hand is also common but not just ordinary 6013, we have rutile cellulose (6013 rc).
Yeah between 2015 when I started welding to now I have seen a huge decline in the use of 6010 rods on welding procedures here in Ontario Canada. The only place that seems to still be using 6010 often is the USA.
Hola estimado! Buen video! Por favor realizó un comparativo de 7016 vs 7018 gracias saludos desde Argentina!
Very rad dude!!! Iam a NDT guy by trade and I weld for funzies. I agree with all your points. I use 6011 cuz my welders cant run a 6010. Those rods have their places and when you need them, they are great. I run way more 7018 I Lincoln Excalibur‘s on things. I have multiprocess miller acdc 220. So I bring everything with me to have all my options. Iam not a welder by trade. So I like being able to mig or tig something if need be. I usually run 7018’s, cuz well its my favorite and I trust it. Folks find it funny when I go and do a Mag particle or dye penetrant test on my own welds. Anyway the other thing is the elongation and yield strength is higher with the 7018. So it just has more give before it wants to blow apart or crack. Rad videos dude! Looking forward to more.
Glad you liked it! Im a welder but I find NDT super interesting I actually just filmed a video on dye penetrant testing so keep subscribed for that.
Neat comparison..Have you tried to weld both sides with 6010 & snap it?
I'd need a press to snap that so I can't.
Good vid man, it’s also funny to hear American’s reaction when I say we do open root all the time with 7018. A lot of people think it’s impossible or it would never be a part of any procedure. I actually prefer it to 6010 honestly
I find 6010 easier to root but easy to fail a bend test. I find the 7018 root a little trickier but it always passes the bed test. We do 7018 roots with a back grind all the time.
@@JTwelder. We also do open roots uphill with 7018 on pipes in Ukraina.
I know it's not a common rod, but what about 8010 root with 7018 cap?
higher tensile strength than 7018, but with sodium & cellulose flux like 6010.
only downside would be hydrogen emmbrittlement(half the point of using 7018)
@@stevenkeele8176 hydrogen emmbrittlement is essential drawback
8010 love it
I've never ran 8010 before but I would love to get my hands on some!
Great vid. What are your thoughts on 8010? no clean up etc etc also from Ont Canada...London
I actually have 50lbs of that rod but haven't got to try it out. I'll have to use some and see what's it's like.
Appreciate the video.
I have done similar tests, except at the time I was doing it on long but thin SHS stuff ( 1.6 - 2.5 mm thick ), and tried 6013, 6010, and 7018.... and I was using a lever action rather than a hammer. The 6013 broke quickly ( perhaps after 40 odd degrees or less), but with both the 7018 and 6010 welds, the actual SHS broke above the weld.
I kinda like 6010 for welding thin things together, I find it much easier to use than 6013 without blow through. Harder to make look nice though.
Have you ever used 7016? In particular, twin coated 7016? Like KOBE LB52U or WIA 16TC or such? That stuff was made for open roots, and is low hydrogen, and supposed to be similar to 7018 in ductility and tensile strength. It also looks awesome. :)
Yeah I run 6010 on thin stuff too. I've heard of 7016 and saw videos on it but it's super uncommon in my area so I doubt ill be able to get my hands on some. Hopefully it will get more popular so I can try it out
We dont like it here in Sweden either. "Farmers rod" 7018 is tougher, more flexible aswell.
I fully agree!
I am only a hobby welder, but my thoughts (for what they are worth) are that 7018 may make a stronger weld than 6010 but 6010 is strong enough for a lot of applications. The yield strength of mild steel (which is what I mostly use) is a bit less than 6010, so the material composition of a 6010 weld won't be a problem. If I was using a steel with a higher carbon content, I would buy a small amount of 7018 for that specific job, but I often just choose not to weld on it.
A bonus is that I don't need to be concerned about 6010 storage. I have a quantity of aged 6010 5p that work beautifully with my old Dialarc 250 ac/dc. My cheap inverter welder won't run 6010, so have to use 6011 instead.
Thank you for sharing your video
This video is geared to heavy industrial welding so that's why I bash 6010 a lot. When it comes to hobby welding I could not care less what I would use to stick stuff together. Also the storage practices of 7018 are drastically overrated because the rod is used in extreme pressure and structural applications. You can leave 7018 on a shelf in your garage for years and it will still put down a stronger weld than 6010.
*LIkely true, but testing conditions were inconsistent between samples:*
*@**15:45** 7018 tap with one-handed light swing dropped 5" from fillet weld*
*@**16:48** 6010 two-handed swing dropped 22" from fillet weld*
When your testing with a hammer obviously there's gonna be some inconsistencies. Go back and watch the video again. It's pretty obvious that the 6010 broke way easier. The 7018 was hit way more times from different heights with one or both hand and it folded over completely without breaking.
Boilermaker local 92 🤙🏻
Nice man I'm local 128
That's crazy to see how much stronger the 7018 is. Like obviously it's supposed to be 10k psi stronger + the low hydrogen structural benefits but it's wild to see how drastic of a difference that actually is
One of the professors at Hobart welding school used to be a chemist designing welding rods at Hobart for like 20+ years. I'll have to ask him what his thoughts are on 6010 vs 7018
I doesn't make sense to me that it's common to do a 6010 root + 7018 fill & cap, you'd think they would want it to be 70k psi throughout the entire weld and use 7010 rods for the root
@@LukeA_55 6010 is more economical, it's faster and much easier to root pipe with. Using 7018 to root is slower and there's much more chance of having defects in the root because of the difficulty when rooting with it. I assume 6010 is safe to root with since most pipe is under 1000psi and the only stress it's really exposed to is internal pressure. They only route with it then switch to 7018, 7010 and 8010 for the fill and cap. Now for anything other than routing pipe or Welding on super dirty stuff I would never use 6010. Here in Canada we never use it for any structural applications and if we root with it on plate it's always back grinded or gouged till you get back to your 7018 fill then re welded with 7018.
I'm European and we never use 6010 only pipeline uses it and even then a lot of machine operated processes
That's basically all it's good for and yet lots of Americans run 6010 roots on structural applications which is dumb.
@@JTwelder. I have come across a structural wps with a 6010 root when splicing H piles, I thought it was kind of odd because why not just use a backing bar, I thought it would be better to do the weld with 7018 only especially when the piles where being driven 60+feet with over 300 blows when proofing them. But whatever the engineer says… welderrup
Why do you hammer hit on a wooden table?
It worked didn't it.....
And 60,000 vs 70,000 isn't like Night & Day........
Doesn’t seem like much until you see how easily the 6010 breaks
yeaH i saW that... ha@@JTwelder.
And that's why 7018 is the backbone of America's infrastructure
Definitely!
no one really knows how to use 6010 anymore lost art its so much faster
6010 is not a pre qualified electrode for structural applications per AWS D1.1
Enough said.
Ok cool that’s good to know! It’s weird though because weldtube did a video on a structural joint and they did the root with 6010.
Can't do it. Everyone should have a code book if you're going to do structural.
Man this guy is hating on 6010 but he never mentioned that 6010 is manly used on pipe not filet welds try doing a open root 7018 weld and ex rays it. 6010 is a fast freezing rod.
Watch the whole video before you comment.
I did talk about how 6010 should be used for open root pipe. 6010 is by far much easier to root pipe with definitely no argument about that.
My problem is I see people using 6010 to root structural filler welds because they think you can just root any type of joint with it. For everything but open root welds where you can’t access the back 7018 is better but if your welding pipe where you can’t back gouge 6010 is best for your root.
Re: tensile strength-you make such a big deal on this based on the AWS designation. You should be using “as welded tensile” not the AWS classification minimum. Most manufacturers 6010 and 7018 have roughly the same tensile strength. Example: Lincoln 5p+ (a 6010) is 73 to 88kips; vs Excalibur 7018 74 to 88 kips-1kip difference on the low end. BTW, your test was extremely bogus. 6010 and 7018 each have strengths and weakness’s, but you misstating information and doing contrived and bogus tests doesn’t help anybody. Why don’t talk about hydrogen cracking? Etc.
I'm Canadian so I know nothing about AWS. All I know is the 6010 broke way easier in a real world test. Instead of writing a butt hurt comment with all your Fancy book learning words go out a film a video with actual physical testing to show how amazing your 6010 is haha.
regardless of the numbers / wording being accurate, 6010 is FAR more brittle and weak to a dynamic load (almost any structural scenario) than 7018 is. which is why he, and many procedures, dont allow 6010 for structural ( or almost 95% of scenarios ).
i weld with 6010/7010/8010/7018 etc daily, we use cellulose rods for pipelines every day, but i know for damn sure a 7018 weld is far stronger.
hydrogen cracking can happen with both rods, just 7018 are meant to be baked to reduce the chances of hydrogen cracking vs a moisture filled 6010 rod.
as a Alberta pipeliner your video is very incorrect about 6010 to 7018, that is like comparing apples to oranges you can't they are two completely different rods not in the same family, so tell me why you don't like 7010 or 8010? maybe because you are not a real welder I weld everything downhill never had a issue I have weld procedures for XX10 that are better than any xx18 weld procedure.
Weaker but Deeper.?!.
Yes sir!
7018 is a ductile weld and low hydrogen wich is all the difference i never understand people that would root fillets with cellulose rods dangerous really 6010 7010 8010 are prone to hydrogen cracking
Yeah they have no place in structural welding.
You Ran the 6010 too low for that plate, neither of those welds penetrated into the base metal at all…you should have been able to see the weld through the back of that material, 7018 doesn’t penetrate as good as 6010. 7018 tends to lay a weld bead on top of thicker material while 6010 will dig deep, hence the reason 6010 Is always used for a root pass. Have you done much work on used oil stem? 6010 or 6011 on rusty or old painted material, also have you ever had bad fit ups out in the middle of nowhere? 6010 can fill up those gaps.*there is a reason 6010 is called farm rod, if its fence, or something that is not moving/twisting 6010 is fine, I agree on machinery 7018 would work but I would probably jump to an 8018…