Thank you for this. I just bought my slash after 30 years of wanting to break into RC. Went to my hobby shop today to get a replacement bellcrank and was kinda crushed when my guy told me I can't be competitive with a slash. I work a more than full time job and will probably get out with my club in the weekends if I'm lucky. No way I can afford a 1000 for a race kit. My hobby shop guys are also my club guys. I was almost ready to sell out and just forget the whole thing. Thank you. You saved me.
Slash is a great truck! Big thing is you can bash with it. Race with it. And you can ALWAYS find parts for it. There's a million aftermarket and mod parts for it. Sure there are more competitive racers. But in 5 years good luck finding parts on that super competitive racer. And don't dream about taking a race truck out in your backyard for fun unless you plan to replace some broken stuff. You made the best choice possible for your first RC car. You'll still have your slash long after all those competitive race trucks are gone.
The guy at your shop is a dick. Most of those people are so greedy and short minded, they'd rather sell you a $1000 kit once, instead of helping you build up a great model the way you want. 8 out of 10 are stuck up, snobby, elitist twats.
@@donniedarko444 Agreed. The store front Hobby Shop owners/employees tend to have an attitude sometimes but in all fairness they are forced to push/sell the highest priced items in order to make a profit and stay open due to maintaining a brick and mortar store. As a result, they are slowly-dying dinosaurs given the advent of the global online r/c market/hobby shop warehouses that sell for less and can provide you with any and every part you could possibly need delivered to your doorstep thereby eliminating the antiquated method of multiple in-store visits to order and pick up parts (assuming a LHS can even order the desired parts). I've order all of my r/c stuff online for many years, haven't been to my local hobby shop in YEARS and not even sure they're even open any more.
He was wrong for saying you can't be competitive. That's farther from the truth. There are Many tracks that have a Slash 2WD RTR, Slash 4x4/ultimate and so on. The drag slash is based off the Bandit and it's Very very fast. So, that Said you can run whatever er you want to!
I'd first like to say thank you for the advice & your professional opinion as I found it to be applicable & super helpful. I recently bought a Slash 4 x4. I replaced the brushed 12T TITAN motor + XL5 ESC with the brushless Hobbywing 3660 SL G2 4000KV motor + 120 amp Hobbywing EZ-RUN Max 10 ESC running on 4s. I also tuned my suspension while replacing the stock 30wt shock oil with LOSI 50wt in preparation to run well on the local outdoor clay track. I've taken it out to the track a couple times since. I was happy with the new shock setup & had a blast turning laps. I now feel as if my first upgrade should've been tires...not only are tires essential but they're the single most important upgrade one can make to improve overall performance. I have never raced before but I will be starting to do so on the club level after a few necessary upgrades (of course starting with the upgrades you recommend as they make total sense). My heart is however set on true competitive racing after I graduate from racing at the club level so I'd like to ask for your advice on the following two topics: 1.) Which vehicles do you recommend that you consider to be "truly dedicated for highly competitive racing"? 2.) I'm considering purchasing: "AKA 13016SR 1/10 Gridiron II SC Wide Soft Front/Rear Tires w/ Red Inserts". Do you feel these are a good choice?
I did the same mods. Work great on the slash. And those Tekno driveshafts were the best mod I did! Oh and the aluminum Traxxas XO-1 front steering and hub carriers work great with those Tekno M6 driveshafts if you want to tighten the steering up even more. I got them for a steal of e-bay when someone parted out an XO-1.
I have a slash 4x4 myself and will be converting it to a lcg. I’m also going to upgrade the shocks but have voted against that idea of getting GTR shocks. Instead I will be adding team associated rc8b3 shocks. I got the suggestion from ihcnehc, he has his own RUclips that you can check out. He has tuned them and his set up with those shocks are, 40wt front 35wt rear, 5.3 springs for the front and 4.1 springs for the rear. This set up will cost around $130, but I think it will be well worth it esthetically for performance and durability wise.
The GTR are great shocks. I have Big Bore shocks as well and it just takes fine tuning to get you where you need to be. Springs/shock spacers and shock oil will make a huge difference. Just work with them to tune them where you like them.
That doesnt look like a slash ultimate, the ultimate & platinum have the aluminum c-hubs, alum steering blocks, and alum GTR shocks. Unless you changed all that out for plastic.
All those parts (except the shocks) are replaced with the Tekno M6 axle kit. www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-rc-m6-driveshaft-steering-block-set-front-6mm-tkr6851x/p173812?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqLq3nPyj6wIVBdbACh2DRQliEAQYASABEgIkLvD_BwE
@@chosenone1004 Haha I debated between those and the Tekno M6. Ended up with the M6 because I know those dogbones well. But they're both indestructible.
In this video, you have the RPM side bumpers/ nerf bars installed. Do you know if they will work on a regular chassis as opposed to the LCG chassis? Is there a difference between the two that prevents them from being mounted to both? Thanks.
So.. You took a slash 4x4 ultimate removed the sway bars, replaced the gtr shocks with the lower end ones from traxxas install a cheap ebay servo and went for racing? Right.. Thanks for the input.
I have the Traxxas VR46 fiesta rally. It came with 48 pitch spur and pinion gears. Should I change to 32 pitch and if so what do you recommend I purchase? Plastic, aluminum, steel? How many teeth etc. just backyard bashing and want some good speed and power. Thanks for the help and very informative video. 👍
I have just replaced the chassis on my Rustler 4X4 VXL. Do you know if there is a chassis brace for the Rustler? Don't give a five year old the controls to a 60 mph mini missal.
Hey! firstly, thanks for the tips. I have a question. My slash 4x4 Vxl just snapped a rear axle and i am searching to find the toughest/best axle i can to replace it with. What axle would you recommend?
They will hold up well. I’ve never had one break but I did have one bend. I was able to bend it back. Eventually, the diff cups will wear out, but that’s normal and it takes a lot of use.
I have a slash VXL also . Do I have to upgrade the electronics if I go with a bigger motor ? Or can I keep that stock for now ? I’m looking for more speed . Or do you think just moving up from a 3s to a 4s would give me more speed ? Thanks
How are you planning to use that speed? Racing clay track? Drag racing on the street? Outdoor bashing? The VXL on 3s is extremely fast. On a tight clay track, more speed would likely just be a disadvantage. It's more about speed through the turns and traction on a clay track. Now if you're talking drag racing our outdoor bashing, you could go with a different ESC/motor combo. For top speed runs, you may want to play around with gears, tires and aerodynamics first though. If you're trying to get a slash to do 70 mph on stock tires with the stock body, the tires will disintegrate and the body will cause the car to lift off the road and go airborn. If you want your slash to go 70+ mph, you will basically have to convert it into a low, sleek street car. Just watch your motor and ESC heat. The faster you go, the hotter things get.
Go Hobby! Awesome reply thank you . I should have given you a little more description . I’m honestly still new to the RC world . I got my slash about 4 months ago . So I’m still trying to figure things out . Other then my axles and tires everything is stock . I do run it through a dirt course here and there , it’s a mixture of sand and packed dirt / clay I guess I would say . But I mainly like running it on asphalt for the speed . With the high speed gear it comes with and a 3s battery I hit 56 on the street . I know I could have gotten more out of it but I was just to scared to run it full speed with my cell phone taped to the inside lol . I need to get one of those little gps speedometers. But dam I would love to hit 70+ . If I could get it to 75 mph I would be completely happy with that . I don’t want anything more then that . So I was thinking I had to upgrade the evo and motor for that kind of speed . Even though I’m thinking just a 4s battery could probably get me close . Or maybe jump up to a gear with more teeth on it ? I just want to make sure I’m doing everything right . And definitely keeping track of the heat like you said . I do have 3 fans running right now . A double fan on the motor and 1 on the evo . Ive been thinking about maybe fabricating a hood scoop . That would help with airflow and most likely help with keeping the front down . It already wants to take off like a airplane . I’ve watched some RUclips videos and your definitely the most knowledgeable. So I figured I would ask you your opinion on what I should do . I really appreciate the response ! Thank you
I have the ultimate also. There are 4 sensors going to the receiver. One is throttle, steering, and two others rpms and ? Did you keep these other two? Not sure I'd ever need the info.
Does anyone run slash late models on here. There’s not many how to vids .mostly muddy boss stuff. Our hobby shop is limited on nothing but 2s lipo .anything else is a go ,would be nice to see vids on some diff ideas
MIP X-Duty if you have the extra money for them . I’ve had them on my slash for awhile and their pretty much impossible to bend or break . Just make sure you use the thread locker that comes with them
i just bought my first slash and i also have a senton 3s i want to use both for racing but I'm scared that it might fuck me up using to different trucks
It's not a bad idea to get used to racing different vehicles. I go back and forth between the ones you see in my videos. The first few laps can be sketchy as I get the feel back.
I see only 1 major thing where you’re misleading people. The front to rear chassis brace. You’re taking away the designed flex of the chassis. Yes the other brands have them, however if you notice the braces do NOT go front to rear.
While there is potential for that, I have not had that happen yet. The axles are metal, the rear diff is metal, driveshaft is metal. So basically, if something is going to sheer off, it will be the spur gear or the wheel hexes, which are also very cheap. The metal axles are the way to go if you are breaking axles frequently like I was.
I have to second what Go Hobby said. As soon as I put a 3s battery in this 3s car I started snapping those plastic driveshafts left and right. They aren't really designed for 3s. Now those Tekno M6s are gold.
Bahaha u can be successful in a slash only class bahaha. There isn't any slashes winning at my track except for future Champs where there mostly kids with slashes they jumped at the skate park the day before. Haha.
Thank you for this. I just bought my slash after 30 years of wanting to break into RC. Went to my hobby shop today to get a replacement bellcrank and was kinda crushed when my guy told me I can't be competitive with a slash. I work a more than full time job and will probably get out with my club in the weekends if I'm lucky. No way I can afford a 1000 for a race kit. My hobby shop guys are also my club guys. I was almost ready to sell out and just forget the whole thing. Thank you. You saved me.
Slash is a great truck! Big thing is you can bash with it. Race with it. And you can ALWAYS find parts for it. There's a million aftermarket and mod parts for it. Sure there are more competitive racers. But in 5 years good luck finding parts on that super competitive racer. And don't dream about taking a race truck out in your backyard for fun unless you plan to replace some broken stuff. You made the best choice possible for your first RC car. You'll still have your slash long after all those competitive race trucks are gone.
The guy at your shop is a dick. Most of those people are so greedy and short minded, they'd rather sell you a $1000 kit once, instead of helping you build up a great model the way you want. 8 out of 10 are stuck up, snobby, elitist twats.
@@donniedarko444 Agreed. The store front Hobby Shop owners/employees tend to have an attitude sometimes but in all fairness they are forced to push/sell the highest priced items in order to make a profit and stay open due to maintaining a brick and mortar store. As a result, they are slowly-dying dinosaurs given the advent of the global online r/c market/hobby shop warehouses that sell for less and can provide you with any and every part you could possibly need delivered to your doorstep thereby eliminating the antiquated method of multiple in-store visits to order and pick up parts (assuming a LHS can even order the desired parts). I've order all of my r/c stuff online for many years, haven't been to my local hobby shop in YEARS and not even sure they're even open any more.
He was wrong for saying you can't be competitive. That's farther from the truth. There are Many tracks that have a Slash 2WD RTR, Slash 4x4/ultimate and so on. The drag slash is based off the Bandit and it's Very very fast. So, that Said you can run whatever er you want to!
Hey, my Slash 4X4 (race build) can compete with TLR SCTs :D
I just got my slash today!!!!! charged batteries then drove it around the living room and didn't take it out side maybe tomorrow :)
I'd first like to say thank you for the advice & your professional opinion as I found it to be applicable & super helpful. I recently bought a Slash 4 x4. I replaced the brushed 12T TITAN motor + XL5 ESC with the brushless Hobbywing 3660 SL G2 4000KV motor + 120 amp Hobbywing EZ-RUN Max 10 ESC running on 4s. I also tuned my suspension while replacing the stock 30wt shock oil with LOSI 50wt in preparation to run well on the local outdoor clay track. I've taken it out to the track a couple times since. I was happy with the new shock setup & had a blast turning laps. I now feel as if my first upgrade should've been tires...not only are tires essential but they're the single most important upgrade one can make to improve overall performance. I have never raced before but I will be starting to do so on the club level after a few necessary upgrades (of course starting with the upgrades you recommend as they make total sense). My heart is however set on true competitive racing after I graduate from racing at the club level so I'd like to ask for your advice on the following two topics:
1.) Which vehicles do you recommend that you consider to be "truly dedicated for highly competitive racing"?
2.) I'm considering purchasing: "AKA 13016SR 1/10 Gridiron II SC Wide Soft Front/Rear Tires w/ Red Inserts". Do you feel these are a good choice?
Yo this guy was my math teacher lol
Lmao
Fr 😂
Bet ya didn't know he was this cool!!
Breaking Bad shit IRL
I did the same mods. Work great on the slash. And those Tekno driveshafts were the best mod I did! Oh and the aluminum Traxxas XO-1 front steering and hub carriers work great with those Tekno M6 driveshafts if you want to tighten the steering up even more. I got them for a steal of e-bay when someone parted out an XO-1.
An excuse to procrastinate ur responsibilities lmao loved that part which I've just started experiencing meself
I have a slash 4x4 myself and will be converting it to a lcg. I’m also going to upgrade the shocks but have voted against that idea of getting GTR shocks. Instead I will be adding team associated rc8b3 shocks. I got the suggestion from ihcnehc, he has his own RUclips that you can check out. He has tuned them and his set up with those shocks are, 40wt front 35wt rear, 5.3 springs for the front and 4.1 springs for the rear. This set up will cost around $130, but I think it will be well worth it esthetically for performance and durability wise.
T2 NATE comment again after the install to let us know how it goes!
T2 NATE check out my OG slash 4x4 and my on road custom drag slash
The GTR are great shocks. I have Big Bore shocks as well and it just takes fine tuning to get you where you need to be. Springs/shock spacers and shock oil will make a huge difference. Just work with them to tune them where you like them.
That doesnt look like a slash ultimate, the ultimate & platinum have the aluminum c-hubs, alum steering blocks, and alum GTR shocks. Unless you changed all that out for plastic.
Tekno m6 driveshafts comes with plastic hubs and carriers for bigger bearings
All those parts (except the shocks) are replaced with the Tekno M6 axle kit. www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-rc-m6-driveshaft-steering-block-set-front-6mm-tkr6851x/p173812?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqLq3nPyj6wIVBdbACh2DRQliEAQYASABEgIkLvD_BwE
Thank you for the suggestions.
Definitely get the tekno drive shafts I have it on my 6s stampede
I use MIP X Duty axles and their pretty much indestructible
@@chosenone1004 Haha I debated between those and the Tekno M6. Ended up with the M6 because I know those dogbones well. But they're both indestructible.
Hey buddy the shock sucks too i had to change mine every jump was a brakes caps
Nice video 👍
Hi Mr.Roe
In this video, you have the RPM side bumpers/ nerf bars installed. Do you know if they will work on a regular chassis as opposed to the LCG chassis? Is there a difference between the two that prevents them from being mounted to both? Thanks.
Tekno M6 axles are awesome.
How hard were they to install?
@@CleanGoose96 direct fit. just swap them out.
So.. You took a slash 4x4 ultimate removed the sway bars, replaced the gtr shocks with the lower end ones from traxxas install a cheap ebay servo and went for racing? Right.. Thanks for the input.
Great info looks good
I have the Traxxas VR46 fiesta rally. It came with 48 pitch spur and pinion gears. Should I change to 32 pitch and if so what do you recommend I purchase? Plastic, aluminum, steel? How many teeth etc. just backyard bashing and want some good speed and power. Thanks for the help and very informative video. 👍
Tires and servo. 👍🏻
👍
I just broke my rear driveshaft, ima get the tekno ones
Do you have links for the upgraded parts, please?
I have just replaced the chassis on my Rustler 4X4 VXL. Do you know if there is a chassis brace for the Rustler? Don't give a five year old the controls to a 60 mph mini missal.
Robert Starke yes, vg racing sells them on eBay but they are like $28
Hey! firstly, thanks for the tips.
I have a question. My slash 4x4 Vxl just snapped a rear axle and i am searching to find the toughest/best axle i can to replace it with. What axle would you recommend?
David Bennett try the Tekno M6 axles, steering blocks and rear carriers. I have them on 4 of my cars. They have never broke.
MIP axles
Your front shock is bent. I recommend proline shocks. Pricey tho.
How are the teckno axles holding up? I’m thinking about getting them. I just bash dont race. And every other run I break a axle. Thanks
They will hold up well. I’ve never had one break but I did have one bend. I was able to bend it back. Eventually, the diff cups will wear out, but that’s normal and it takes a lot of use.
@@gohobby9934 Ok! Thanks I might give them a try. I bash pretty hard on 3s. I hope they don’t shatter on me. Thanks for your quick feedback
Those plastic drive shaft should be pretty good as they are, you need to adjust your slipper clutch, that's what it's for to save drive train.
I have a slash VXL also . Do I have to upgrade the electronics if I go with a bigger motor ? Or can I keep that stock for now ? I’m looking for more speed . Or do you think just moving up from a 3s to a 4s would give me more speed ? Thanks
How are you planning to use that speed? Racing clay track? Drag racing on the street? Outdoor bashing? The VXL on 3s is extremely fast. On a tight clay track, more speed would likely just be a disadvantage. It's more about speed through the turns and traction on a clay track. Now if you're talking drag racing our outdoor bashing, you could go with a different ESC/motor combo. For top speed runs, you may want to play around with gears, tires and aerodynamics first though. If you're trying to get a slash to do 70 mph on stock tires with the stock body, the tires will disintegrate and the body will cause the car to lift off the road and go airborn. If you want your slash to go 70+ mph, you will basically have to convert it into a low, sleek street car. Just watch your motor and ESC heat. The faster you go, the hotter things get.
Go Hobby!
Awesome reply thank you . I should have given you a little more description . I’m honestly still new to the RC world . I got my slash about 4 months ago . So I’m still trying to figure things out . Other then my axles and tires everything is stock . I do run it through a dirt course here and there , it’s a mixture of sand and packed dirt / clay I guess I would say . But I mainly like running it on asphalt for the speed . With the high speed gear it comes with and a 3s battery I hit 56 on the street . I know I could have gotten more out of it but I was just to scared to run it full speed with my cell phone taped to the inside lol . I need to get one of those little gps speedometers. But dam I would love to hit 70+ . If I could get it to 75 mph I would be completely happy with that . I don’t want anything more then that . So I was thinking I had to upgrade the evo and motor for that kind of speed . Even though I’m thinking just a 4s battery could probably get me close . Or maybe jump up to a gear with more teeth on it ? I just want to make sure I’m doing everything right . And definitely keeping track of the heat like you said . I do have 3 fans running right now . A double fan on the motor and 1 on the evo . Ive been thinking about maybe fabricating a hood scoop . That would help with airflow and most likely help with keeping the front down . It already wants to take off like a airplane . I’ve watched some RUclips videos and your definitely the most knowledgeable. So I figured I would ask you your opinion on what I should do . I really appreciate the response ! Thank you
@@chosenone1004 Here's a good read as you pursue your speed goals. home.castlecreations.com/blog/2018/8/2/the-paths-to-speed-series-i
I think the stock traxxas axles are better cuz of you upgraded one of might broke something else on you Car like you suggest gears
I have the ultimate also. There are 4 sensors going to the receiver. One is throttle, steering, and two others rpms and ? Did you keep these other two? Not sure I'd ever need the info.
yeah true not everyone wants to race for sponsors just for fun :) what's the other car on the bench bro.
Tekno
What about the new ultimate what upgrades thank you
What brushless motors do u recommend
Hobby wing
I have too much tow in on my rear wheels, what should I do to fix this?
what wheels are you running/offset. Im looking for some solid buggy type wheels but cannot find anything that fits the slash 4x4
Same
Does anyone run slash late models on here. There’s not many how to vids .mostly muddy boss stuff. Our hobby shop is limited on nothing but 2s lipo .anything else is a go ,would be nice to see vids on some diff ideas
Why did you remove the GTR shocks and the telemetry?
to reduce weight
What wheels are on the slash with the blue chassis bits?? Im trying to find some appropriate road tires for my ftx zorro
I have all metal parts on mine and a mamba monster in it and those axels arnt quite strong enough. I’ve bent 3 of them already.
MIP X-Duty if you have the extra money for them . I’ve had them on my slash for awhile and their pretty much impossible to bend or break . Just make sure you use the thread locker that comes with them
The fastest cars are light and break a lot...lol
i just bought my first slash and i also have a senton 3s i want to use both for racing but I'm scared that it might fuck me up using to different trucks
It's not a bad idea to get used to racing different vehicles. I go back and forth between the ones you see in my videos. The first few laps can be sketchy as I get the feel back.
@@gohobby9934 ruclips.net/video/gJs4RoIYjrw/видео.html
I see only 1 major thing where you’re misleading people. The front to rear chassis brace. You’re taking away the designed flex of the chassis. Yes the other brands have them, however if you notice the braces do NOT go front to rear.
Yes, you are correct. However, I believe the trade off for the extra durability is worth it. You can’t win a race if your chassis is broken.
What gearing & diff fluid do you run
Could I ask what Nerf bars are on the slash
Liam Browning those are lcg rpm nerf bars
Steel axels arent worth it your gonna end up breaking other things in the future
ethan mccauley they’re necessary with this truck to run 3s.
While there is potential for that, I have not had that happen yet. The axles are metal, the rear diff is metal, driveshaft is metal. So basically, if something is going to sheer off, it will be the spur gear or the wheel hexes, which are also very cheap. The metal axles are the way to go if you are breaking axles frequently like I was.
I have to second what Go Hobby said. As soon as I put a 3s battery in this 3s car I started snapping those plastic driveshafts left and right. They aren't really designed for 3s. Now those Tekno M6s are gold.
Definitely not an ultimate… no sway bars no aluminum no adjustable titanium shocks
All this stuff was removed. Most of the aluminum stuff goes bye bye when you upgrade to the Tekno M5 axle kit.
Bahaha u can be successful in a slash only class bahaha. There isn't any slashes winning at my track except for future Champs where there mostly kids with slashes they jumped at the skate park the day before. Haha.