I used a Benzomatic torch when I replaced the u joints in my Tahoe. I didn't press them out, I beat them out with a mini sledge and a socket. I'm just a DIY guy trying to fix stuff in my driveway so I laid the driveshaft in the soft grass and dirt and beat the u joint out haha. You should do a video on installing the new U joints, I have enjoyed the Silverado series of videos, keep em coming!
i used a hammer and vise immediately after I heated the joint with a torch and the little "worm" came out of the hole....this prevented whatever was left of the plastic to harden....any way works well but everyone does everything differently with the same results... I never thought of using the inductor but that was pretty efficient too......great video...flashbacks galore
I’m a professional mechanic for 30 years. I just bought the Mini Ductor Venom HP. Paid $850 for it. Works faster than a torch with less chance of damaging surrounding components. Love using it!
I bought my mini ductor venom 7 years ago for $450 with a tube of coils. New but off a guy who won it at a tool show. It's definitely one of my prize possessions in my tool box!
I had a lifted Blazer back in 79 and did U joints all the time. Of course that was before this high tech stuff. Haven't seen anything like this so thanks for the education, Tim.
I have changed these style u-joints on an s10 blazer more time than I like to remember. My dad's 12-ton pneudraulic press couldn't do it, so it was always done with a mega-vise.
I just press them out without heat. Removing the nylon can leave 2 holes for water to get to the cups and rust them in. Pressing out and leaving the plastic rings in the grooves makes for z nice smooth bore that fully supports the u-joint cup. With no heat, they pop like the first one did. I believe that not enough nylon came out with the torch, leading to the same result with no heat.
I find the mini-ductor is good for stuff like that or when lock-tite is used, but when you have rusty exhaust bolts or something similar, it doesnt work as good and map gas/the yellow heat wrench works better. Pretty interesting technique for securing u-joint w that glass fiber plastic tho. It really did look like popping a big juicie white head/pimple tho haha
Great work on this video. Question: after you removed the remaining plastic from that groove, what did you fill the groove with? I've seen several videos of melting out the plastic but you are the only one who melted out the rest of the plastic that was in that groove. This seems like an important step to me. Will leaving the old plastic in the groove be damaging? If the remaining plastic is removed, does it have to be replaced with something else? Additionally, I have an induction tool from a different company and it works so great and helps to remove things that might otherwise be impossible to remove. Thanks for the video.
IMPORTANT QUESTION!!. CAN YOU DO THIS WITHOUT REMOVING THE DRIVE SHAFT??? let's say I already did the bracket side ujoint. Over torqued the bolts but need to do the yolk side now... can I heat it up melt the plastic and use my press to change that ujoint without removing the whole driveshaft?? I love your videos and respect a honest comment . People keep saying no I don't understand why I could use my torque gun and press and do it without going to mechanic paying him... how would he do it with the bolt being stripped on the bracket side, he'd have to remove the yolk side to get more clearance for a socket on the bracket side no? Simple question. Can I change the ujoint on the yolk side without removing the whole shaft?? Thank you!!! 4x4 gmc sonoma 2003 rear driveshaft
I am dying to get a mini ductor venom Living in Canada in the rust belt. But they are so expensive for the rare time you need it. I really wish they would drop in price
@ 10:42 even though I wasn't there I would've been like holy shitting myself if I was... Thanks for doing this because I may have been dumb enough to try the brute force way just to see -> kind of a scientist myself. The induction is awesome if you can afford it... but just going to use a map torch since you showed that propane should work... induction is nice though not just for this but for rust belt nuts and bolts which is something I will consider in the future.
I used a Benzomatic torch when I replaced the u joints in my Tahoe. I didn't press them out, I beat them out with a mini sledge and a socket. I'm just a DIY guy trying to fix stuff in my driveway so I laid the driveshaft in the soft grass and dirt and beat the u joint out haha. You should do a video on installing the new U joints, I have enjoyed the Silverado series of videos, keep em coming!
You can bow the driveshaft ears by beating them out
i used a hammer and vise immediately after I heated the joint with a torch and the little "worm" came out of the hole....this prevented whatever was left of the plastic to harden....any way works well but everyone does everything differently with the same results... I never thought of using the inductor but that was pretty efficient too......great video...flashbacks galore
I’m a professional mechanic for 30 years. I just bought the Mini Ductor Venom HP. Paid $850 for it. Works faster than a torch with less chance of damaging surrounding components. Love using it!
I bought my mini ductor venom 7 years ago for $450 with a tube of coils. New but off a guy who won it at a tool show. It's definitely one of my prize possessions in my tool box!
Also why did you pay 850$ the hp is 500-550$
I had a lifted Blazer back in 79 and did U joints all the time. Of course that was before this high tech stuff. Haven't seen anything like this so thanks for the education, Tim.
Great video Tim. Had no idea about the plastic retained u joints. Nuts!
Hi Tim, I usually use a propane torch and a ball joint tool, they always work for me, excellent demonstration ty,
I’ll never forget when I first saw this. Such a cool design
I have changed these style u-joints on an s10 blazer more time than I like to remember. My dad's 12-ton pneudraulic press couldn't do it, so it was always done with a mega-vise.
I just press them out without heat. Removing the nylon can leave 2 holes for water to get to the cups and rust them in. Pressing out and leaving the plastic rings in the grooves makes for z nice smooth bore that fully supports the u-joint cup.
With no heat, they pop like the first one did. I believe that not enough nylon came out with the torch, leading to the same result with no heat.
That's a very good point. Thanks for sharing.
I find the mini-ductor is good for stuff like that or when lock-tite is used, but when you have rusty exhaust bolts or something similar, it doesnt work as good and map gas/the yellow heat wrench works better. Pretty interesting technique for securing u-joint w that glass fiber plastic tho. It really did look like popping a big juicie white head/pimple tho haha
GREAT video! I need to do my rear u-join in my Silverado as well.
Yea my dad's Suburban needs it too.
Great work on this video. Question: after you removed the remaining plastic from that groove, what did you fill the groove with? I've seen several videos of melting out the plastic but you are the only one who melted out the rest of the plastic that was in that groove. This seems like an important step to me. Will leaving the old plastic in the groove be damaging? If the remaining plastic is removed, does it have to be replaced with something else? Additionally, I have an induction tool from a different company and it works so great and helps to remove things that might otherwise be impossible to remove. Thanks for the video.
Popping that out without heating it up got my like!
Next video needs to be a review of some SWAG Offroad heavy duty press plates!
MINI Inductor is AWESOME!!!
i was worried the moment you started using the press, that thing is no joke!
The induction tool I believe is very similar to an oxygen acetylene style heat which is far higher than propane. I however need to get both..
How do you reinstall them do you need this special plastic ?
Map gas torch worked and a bench vice but damn not easy
How do I replace the plastic retainer
Didn't GM also include plastic scissor jacks? They really like their plastics.
You have no idea.
Ex GM Tech 3 years
GM loves plastic molds
Not anymore after they got recalled for collapsing
IMPORTANT QUESTION!!. CAN YOU DO THIS WITHOUT REMOVING THE DRIVE SHAFT??? let's say I already did the bracket side ujoint. Over torqued the bolts but need to do the yolk side now... can I heat it up melt the plastic and use my press to change that ujoint without removing the whole driveshaft?? I love your videos and respect a honest comment . People keep saying no I don't understand why I could use my torque gun and press and do it without going to mechanic paying him... how would he do it with the bolt being stripped on the bracket side, he'd have to remove the yolk side to get more clearance for a socket on the bracket side no? Simple question. Can I change the ujoint on the yolk side without removing the whole shaft?? Thank you!!!
4x4 gmc sonoma 2003 rear driveshaft
i wouldn't.
get that bolt out and retap the hole
Took alot of work and some help from my dad Alot Heat and A air hammer and alot of frustration but I got it
I am dying to get a mini ductor venom
Living in Canada in the rust belt. But they are so expensive for the rare time you need it. I really wish they would drop in price
me as well. i want to get the HP but literally cannot get it in CRAPADA. see if my snap-on guy can get them, im doubtful
good old gm quality! XD
Nice! But that price point! Yikes!
I think an Oxygen acetylene torch with a rose Bud would be easier
I gotta say that that press method is very dangerous…
very
Dr pimple popper!
@ 10:42 even though I wasn't there I would've been like holy shitting myself if I was... Thanks for doing this because I may have been dumb enough to try the brute force way just to see -> kind of a scientist myself. The induction is awesome if you can afford it... but just going to use a map torch since you showed that propane should work... induction is nice though not just for this but for rust belt nuts and bolts which is something I will consider in the future.
Put it back in
😅