The Black oxide kit(Amazon affiliate ) amzn.to/2uuwIiS I used in this video(in kit form) Knives, Shirts and other tools I use from amazon - www.daveerving.com/ Hope all is well, take it easy....
If you notice nobody in the knife community really knocks any other builders. That’s what ya call classy individuals. I love that part of the community more than anything else. Good people.
They’ll have to get over it. I know people Look at me funny because I still use an old fashioned coping saw but I can cope quickly. If I had to make repetitive cuts and pulled out my tape,measured and marked each piece and then made a cut and I’m getting paid by the hour and don’t use a stop block I’m gonna get fired !!! I feel their sentiment but come on. A knife is a knife. If ya want a cookie for the way you made it then advertise how you made it and see who pays you an extra 400 bucks for your special technique. Good luck. You might have followers but I’ll never see that day. This world has become too competitive. I have people that insist I do their repairs but that’s only because they like the end results, not how I achieved them.
@@e.t.preppin7084 Haha, when we were doing remodeling, I always used an angle grinder instead of a coping saw... for me it was just quicker...I agree, i think however you make a knife, as long as you're making it, that's all that matters..
That's nice and BLACK! If it is COPPER Sulfate/ blue stone, you can pour it down the drain, or on unwanted plants? clean your parts with hot TSP/water, cheap! TSP will also double to neutralize your acids very well! and you may not get splotches? Sorry I did Industrial passivation and finishing, so I know a thing or two, and don't know what I don't know, and Can't Remember? Love your Shop! Windex has Ammonia/base! penetrating
You don't use baking soda after soak to neutralize the ferric? I usually use PB Blaster instead of Quench oil, but same difference. Thanks for the input.
I’m really starting to get an interest in removable scales. What’s the better one G-10 or Carbon fiber. I swore I would never do anything but wood scales but I have been swayed into maybe doing other scales.
Carbon fiber is expensive, any type of resin based material, G10, micarta, even stabilized wood, if done right(really the only reason for epoxying wood, that i see, is because it can warp) will work
Your getting way above my experience level but I love to watch. One day it’ll be like I’ve already done this. I hope!!! Love all your videos. Your lighting is so much better these days. Maybe you could zoom in a little closer or maybe I just need better glasses 😂😂😂
Yeah, I have to wear glasses now for a lot of things... I even have my 1.00 for reading, then 2.5 for grinding... I try to get zoom shots on the knives & stuff, but when explaining I try to make it easy to see everything... you'll learn this stuff, the only way to get experience, is to do it(when the time comes you want to learn these things) the videos will be here when you are ready... take it easy my friend
Couple questions…. 1.) If I want a marbled look I need to spray the blade with WD-40 and leave it in the tumbler for less time, right? 2.) The consistent spotty look needs more time and no WD-40 correct? 3.) You said that you have multiple different types of media, but the different types didn’t really make a difference? So could I get the same effect with ONLY using the medium ceramic media from Harbor freight? Or do you need the various sizes of media to get that marbled effect? Sorry for all the questions, just wanna get that nice marbled look. Awesome vid though!
Me & my friend had this debate. He thinks as long as the media is wet(I use water & windex) it'll have the same effect. I think the WD-40 adds a little. It's been a while & I've been using the same mixed media, but it shouldn't make a difference. The spotty look is with dry media. Hope this helps.
I've only done that 1 kitchen knife, after broaching out the hole, I ended up burning it in... From what I understand, it's what the Japanese have done for centuries
I’ve always been told to run carbide dry. I sell burs and some carbide bits and they all say no cutting oil on the ones i sell. Not sure if you have different bits?
Hmm, thanks for the tips, I'm definitely new to machining.. I have a few carbide burrs, but I mainly use those in a die grinder, I was using endmills, which I'm pretty sure are made more for cutting....I'm still trying to learn all this stuff...
This has been the most informative video I have watched. I can use your help though. I am not having success with the blades turning black. Would you be kind enough to go through your prep before you go into the solution? Like I see you have PB blaster on the table but it looks like you use some version of WD-40 to clean the blade. I have been oxide blasting the steel and using acetone to clean and the blade haven’t turned black using the Caswell solution. Please help!
I guess my 1st question would be what steel are you using? I think there is a seperate oxide for Stainless. It's been a while since I've used the casewell's, but if it's not turning black, that is the 1st place to start. 2nd would be how much are you diluting it?
@@michaelbsales5624 Yeah, that's kinda what i was thinking. s30v is a stainless steel. Caswell's has a stainless steel blackening formula. Unfortunately, I've never used it. I don't do much stainless. I do a lot of hamons & stonewashing, so I haven't used caswells in a while. It is a whole different etch with ferric & vinegar. Maybe contact them & see id they have any advice. Sorry I couldn't help more.
So you black oxide the blades, coat with penetrating oil and then acid etched them? Does the penetrating oil that you used after black oxide contaminate your Ferric?
So I was just looking the pint is now $47, but the whole kit is 69 and you get 2 pints of the sealer with the black oxide concentrate... amzn.to/2HSyHFC
No, I usually put it in a bigger container, then when that container is full I'll keep it till I'm going somewhere near the local dump & tell them what it is. I don't use it that much though.
The Buffalo Steel Plant would just pour it in Lake Erie to get rid of it, but they were $friends$ with the EPA👍😁. It probably wasn't good for our Great Lake but it made for interesting looking and tasting fish🐟 👍.
@@e.t.preppin7084 Yeah, I have to drive about 1/2 hour away, though i do buy a lot online... I would google Harbor freight coupons, they always have 20-25% off
You're right, that was an expensive lesson. I have a bunch of carbide for my jimping, so I figured it would work. Live & learn. I was thinking more for weight too, but yeah the dremel would have been a better choice.
Honestly I don't either. I prefer a heavier knife, so I use to never drill out weight holes, but a lot of people like lighter knives... Getting the whole balance thing down, I haven't figured out either... the only one sold is the fillet knife... Yes, I miss him too, he had some great videos...
The Black oxide kit(Amazon affiliate ) amzn.to/2uuwIiS I used in this video(in kit form)
Knives, Shirts and other tools I use from amazon - www.daveerving.com/
Hope all is well, take it easy....
So glad I found your Channel Sir👍.
Wow stone wash is awesome dude. Thanks for inviting me to watch. This was very helpful.
I know you just got into ferric, so I thought it might help... Next I'm gonna try dark coffee on hamons, I hear it is really good with Damascus..
I cant wait to try it on some of my knives. Thanks for the full guide
No problem, thanks for watching
Outdoor 55 is so funny. Very entertaining and does good work. I enjoy watching him.
Yeah, it'll be interesting to see what he does with the 2x72 and heat treat oven...
If you notice nobody in the knife community really knocks any other builders. That’s what ya call classy individuals. I love that part of the community more than anything else. Good people.
Yeah, for the most part, but like I was talking about yesterday in the livestream, a lot of guys have different ideas to what is really "knife making"
They’ll have to get over it. I know people
Look at me funny because I still use an old fashioned coping saw but I can cope quickly. If I had to make repetitive cuts and pulled out my tape,measured and marked each piece and then made a cut and I’m getting paid by the hour and don’t use a stop block I’m gonna get fired !!! I feel their sentiment but come on. A knife is a knife. If ya want a cookie for the way you made it then advertise how you made it and see who pays you an extra 400 bucks for your special technique. Good luck. You might have followers but I’ll never see that day. This world has become too competitive. I have people that insist I do their repairs but that’s only because they like the end results, not how I achieved them.
@@e.t.preppin7084 Haha, when we were doing remodeling, I always used an angle grinder instead of a coping saw... for me it was just quicker...I agree, i think however you make a knife, as long as you're making it, that's all that matters..
I don’t know who’s funnier you or outdoor 55. Y’all both inform and entertain me. Haha
thats true about the 1/8th and 1/4 brother nice mill good video as always,your still the hardest workin knife maker I know
Thanks, really appreciate the support... take it easy
You are The Man Dude!!!!!!!
Thanks appreciate that
Thanks for sharing Dave,real joy to watch.
Keep them coming.
Regards
Davy Thomas
No problem, I like your RUclips channel name...
That's nice and BLACK! If it is COPPER Sulfate/ blue stone, you can pour it down the drain, or on unwanted plants?
clean your parts with hot TSP/water, cheap! TSP will also double to neutralize your acids very well! and you may not get splotches? Sorry I did Industrial passivation and finishing, so I know a thing or two, and don't know what I don't know, and Can't Remember? Love your Shop! Windex has Ammonia/base!
penetrating
Thanks!!! Appreciate the info, take it easy
After ferric cjean in water dab blade clean then let soak in quench oil or some oil for 3 or 4 hurs to set ferric
You don't use baking soda after soak to neutralize the ferric? I usually use PB Blaster instead of Quench oil, but same difference. Thanks for the input.
Looks great Dave. When I was using 1084 I experimental with some finishes, not too much now on my stainless. But I want to do a few in the future.
Yeah, stainless is tricky, I think caswells actually has a stainless blacking system, but I have yet to try it...
I’m really starting to get an interest in removable scales. What’s the better one G-10 or Carbon fiber. I swore I would never do anything but wood scales but I have been swayed into maybe doing other scales.
Carbon fiber is expensive, any type of resin based material, G10, micarta, even stabilized wood, if done right(really the only reason for epoxying wood, that i see, is because it can warp) will work
Cool blades, Dave, also, really cool that your "Ability" isn't compromised by your "disability"!
Thanks, appreciate that...
That’s his strong hand!!!
How can you remove the factory stonewash finish from a knife (Spyderco Shaman)? thanks for your videos!
You would basically have to take it apart & sand it down
Your getting way above my experience level but I love to watch. One day it’ll be like I’ve already done this. I hope!!! Love all your videos. Your lighting is so much better these days. Maybe you could zoom in a little closer or maybe I just need better glasses 😂😂😂
Yeah, I have to wear glasses now for a lot of things... I even have my 1.00 for reading, then 2.5 for grinding... I try to get zoom shots on the knives & stuff, but when explaining I try to make it easy to see everything... you'll learn this stuff, the only way to get experience, is to do it(when the time comes you want to learn these things) the videos will be here when you are ready... take it easy my friend
Very nice i like that whats that blue bottle stuff called ? Ide like 2 get some of that
Caswells Black Oxide Concentrate...
Couple questions….
1.) If I want a marbled look I need to spray the blade with WD-40 and leave it in the tumbler for less time, right?
2.) The consistent spotty look needs more time and no WD-40 correct?
3.) You said that you have multiple different types of media, but the different types didn’t really make a difference? So could I get the same effect with ONLY using the medium ceramic media from Harbor freight? Or do you need the various sizes of media to get that marbled effect?
Sorry for all the questions, just wanna get that nice marbled look. Awesome vid though!
Me & my friend had this debate. He thinks as long as the media is wet(I use water & windex) it'll have the same effect. I think the WD-40 adds a little. It's been a while & I've been using the same mixed media, but it shouldn't make a difference. The spotty look is with dry media. Hope this helps.
@@evaderknives Awesome, thank you for the quick reply! I’m gonna try to get a few different sizes/shapes for the media and try it wet and dry.
@@jarrettvoyzey9893 Awesome, let me know how it works out.
@@evaderknives will do my friend!
What did you think about Jeremy burning his knife in to the handle. That was pretty cool. I won’t be doing it anytime soon but it was cool
I've only done that 1 kitchen knife, after broaching out the hole, I ended up burning it in... From what I understand, it's what the Japanese have done for centuries
I’ve always been told to run carbide dry. I sell burs and some carbide bits and they all say no cutting oil on the ones i sell. Not sure if you have different bits?
Hmm, thanks for the tips, I'm definitely new to machining.. I have a few carbide burrs, but I mainly use those in a die grinder, I was using endmills, which I'm pretty sure are made more for cutting....I'm still trying to learn all this stuff...
This has been the most informative video I have watched. I can use your help though. I am not having success with the blades turning black. Would you be kind enough to go through your prep before you go into the solution? Like I see you have PB blaster on the table but it looks like you use some version of WD-40 to clean the blade.
I have been oxide blasting the steel and using acetone to clean and the blade haven’t turned black using the Caswell solution. Please help!
I guess my 1st question would be what steel are you using? I think there is a seperate oxide for Stainless. It's been a while since I've used the casewell's, but if it's not turning black, that is the 1st place to start. 2nd would be how much are you diluting it?
@@evaderknives s30v and I’m doing 1:6 ratio
@@evaderknives are you using something better/easier these days besides caswell?
@@michaelbsales5624 Yeah, that's kinda what i was thinking. s30v is a stainless steel. Caswell's has a stainless steel blackening formula. Unfortunately, I've never used it. I don't do much stainless. I do a lot of hamons & stonewashing, so I haven't used caswells in a while. It is a whole different etch with ferric & vinegar. Maybe contact them & see id they have any advice. Sorry I couldn't help more.
@@evaderknives thanks so much Dave! You saved me a lot of stress! 👊🏻👊🏻
So you black oxide the blades, coat with penetrating oil and then acid etched them? Does the penetrating oil that you used after black oxide contaminate your Ferric?
3 different knives, I think one was black oxide & the others were ferric... Been a while, I'd have to watch it back.
Thanks, Great channel
@@pauldelaney6380 Appreciate that
Are those all sold ?
Hey dave where did you get the concentrate black oxide?
Google Caswells black oxide, they have a bunch of different types for other steel too...
Dave Erving Evader Knives thank you sir!
@@bootlegblades6276 I was just looking and they raised the price to $47 for the pint, but for $69, you get the whole kit... amzn.to/2uuwIiS
What would you say your proportions of ferric to vinegar are?
like 45/45% water/ferric 10% vinegar.
That’s funny Veniger makes ya drop your blade
can you Black oxide titanium ?
Titanium you anodize with either chemicals or heat.
Did i here you say caswell? How bout a link dave ? Btw your blade are awesome bro
So I was just looking the pint is now $47, but the whole kit is 69 and you get 2 pints of the sealer with the black oxide concentrate... amzn.to/2HSyHFC
I miss Steve on RUclips
Have you ever found a good way to dispose of the Black Oxide?
No, I usually put it in a bigger container, then when that container is full I'll keep it till I'm going somewhere near the local dump & tell them what it is. I don't use it that much though.
@@evaderknives thank you again for always answering.
@@triaxegear4544 no problem
The Buffalo Steel Plant would just pour it in Lake Erie to get rid of it, but they were $friends$ with the EPA👍😁.
It probably wasn't good for our Great Lake but it made for interesting looking and tasting fish🐟 👍.
I would love to have your stonewashed machine
I got it from harbor freight(the big one), my sandblaster too...
Really Harbor Freight. I told ya I have one 1 mile from home. DANGEROUS to my bank account 😂
@@e.t.preppin7084 Yeah, I have to drive about 1/2 hour away, though i do buy a lot online... I would google Harbor freight coupons, they always have 20-25% off
Yeah my emails are blown up with their ads. The band saw is always on sale except the day I bought mine 😂😢
Carbide bits are way more expensive than just using a dremel wheel to cut some epoxy depressions
You're right, that was an expensive lesson. I have a bunch of carbide for my jimping, so I figured it would work. Live & learn. I was thinking more for weight too, but yeah the dremel would have been a better choice.
Knife builders would suck as politicians. Thank god.
I don’t understand the weight ratio on knives yet. I’m sure there is a mathematical ratio. I don’t even wanna know it yet. Haha.
Honestly I don't either. I prefer a heavier knife, so I use to never drill out weight holes, but a lot of people like lighter knives... Getting the whole balance thing down, I haven't figured out either... the only one sold is the fillet knife... Yes, I miss him too, he had some great videos...
I think I better shut up now. I talk too much!!!