Hey Matt, My Grandfather Fred Clas, who passed away at 99 in December 2021 invented the process to attach carbide to saws/drills etc as an apprentice for the Watervliet Arsenal just prior to the breakout of WWII. He produced short movies detailing the process for Ford, GM, etc and was credited for a measured 10,000 percent increase in machining productivity during the war. You talk about cutting metal.. that was the idea. He's had flags flown over the White House in his honor, and went on to invent other metallurgical processes before running the Arsenal for more than 40 years as a civilian. As a woodworker, it's humbling to not only use his technology today, but to see people like you who I have watched for ages enjoy the benefits. It's downright cool honestly.
Great story about your Grandfather. Thank you for sharing it with us. As a machinist, I certainly appreciate his contribution to mankind and the world. Cheers, Ed
You could’ve just led with the fact that you cut through your sidestop and it didn’t dull the blade and I would’ve been sold. I’ve only had my sawmill long enough to cut through the stop once, but when it happened, it was the first cut on a new blade . I felt it in my soul.
Thanks, what a timely video. A friend has a 30'' sawmill that I've been helping put together and saw a few logs. He will be giving a demo tonight at our woodturning club and has been wondering about carbide blades. Roy follows you too. Now I want a sawmill.
Just wanted to let you know that you are truly an inspiration between your marvelous woodworking and sawmill exploits. I live in Hawaii on the island of Oahu in a rather tight suburban setting. No room for a sawmill here. However there was a time when my wife and I were looking to move to the big island near Hawi and it was my goal to get a lot big enough to allow me to build your sawmill and start my own urban log rescue. As you might guess there are some remarkable exotic trees growing all over and routinely cut down and sent through the wood chipper. Monkeypod and Mango probably are the most common. Unfortunately the property prices have climbed and the dream has become highly unlikely. Keep posting so us urban livers can keep living the dream vicariously. 😎🤙
Thank you for an informative view on this. I've ran carbide on circular saws for years. We cut a lot of boards with concrete on them and the carbide held up well. I've been considering them for my mill. I believe you just helped make up my mind.
I love the business side, and pro-con type of video on your tools. Even though I don't have a sawmill, I have learned to think about my shop differently because of your videos. :-) especially as a hobbies, enjoyment is more important. :-)
Appreciate the information about saw blades. I think your saw blade comparison applies to any wood working shop or tradesmen usage. Cool giving Lumber Capital Log Yard a shout-out. Their channel is a great insight into a family run commercial lumber yard and saw mill operation. Always great information there.
I started out milling with a stihl 661 and 36" bar. After getting a norwood bandsaw mill, I realized the operational cost is wayyy cheaper vs chainsaw. Good premix, fuel, and bar oil really adds up. I still use chainsaw mill to make huge logs easier to handle on mill once in a blue moon. Water and low octane fuel is all the bandsaw mill requires. Besides the occasional motor oil change.
As a Welder / CAD Metal Designer - Fabricator found your video very interesting. Although I don't play with Dead Tree Carcasses, the information was very informative.
Found the same thing, I’m using ripper 37 now vs standard woodland blades, milling lumber for people who aren’t planning the material so it was extra important. Even milled 24 inch logs I noticed a huge difference. At 110 hours now at my 7 month mark of owning the mill
Very insightful Matt. I always wondered why metal didn't seem to be the slightest concern for you. I had no idea these carbide blades make metal virtually a non-issue. For someone like me who's cutting a lot of urban logs, this really is a no-brainer.
When I saw you cut through that 2" tube I went out and bought a carbide resaw blade for my (vertical) bandsaw. It's a little annoying that these 96" carbine blades cost only a little less than what you paid for your 26' blades but hey, compared to the non-carbide blades I figure these are worth 10x if not more, because they stay sharp for so much longer. I've got carbide on my jointer, planer, and slab flattening jig now too, even my lathe tools - it's such a superior material for most types of cutting. I agree with your observation that they don't really dull so much as they shatter and need to be replaced (easy with shellix style heads, less so with bandsaw blades).
Are there any blade smiths in your area? The old high carbon steel blades can be used to make cannister Damascus, so you might be able to find someone to haul away the old steel, and even pay you for it.
That’s what happened to the majority of the old ones. The others that were still in good shape and not missing teeth were sent to someone who built one of these saws to practice with their new sharpener
Hmm, for sure, food for thought. I mostly cut up bowl blanks for my lathes. I have a Lennox dealer in town who makes the blades for me. Oh, bit bandsaw is a Laguna 16HD. I asked my dealer about the carbide blades and was told 'they are only for cutting veneers. I tried a Lennox blade once, and walnut seems to dull all of my cutting tools more than just about any wood. It seemed dull after cutting up a bunch of walnut. The teeth on it were so tiny that they could not be resharpened. I may have to look into the Woodmiser carbide blades. I have been using the Lennox bimetal blades. I believe the harder metal is M42 high speed steel, and it is the same metal, but different tooth set and shape, that is used for the pallet cutting blades. I know the bimetal blades can be resharpened several times, and an important part of the process is to reset the teeth. As for table saw blades, I use ATBR blades, alternate tooth bevel and raker teeth. The ATB does open up the cut a slight bit so the blade doesn't bind, unless there is 'tension' in the wood from not being dried properly. I had wondered about the blade pressure when leaving all the other slabs on top as you cut. Hope you know some turners for all of your off cuts.
I have been meaning to comment on this subject with just this question. Thanks for covering it so well. I love all of your content however It would be nice to see more clips of your Children as they are growing through the years, your interaction with them is heart warming. I also miss your live Friday evenings with your wife, Very entertaining and a good catch-up on you and your family's life intertwined with informative insights on things done and coming up.
I use stellite tipped blades and get about 4 hours cutting time before I have to reduce my feed speed to keep a really straight cut. The guy who sharpens them for me said that running them dull is what damages the blade so I am happy to swap for a sharp one more often. Only blade crack I have had so far is from running a dull blade.
Even Carbide is rated in hardness and you should know what you are getting. We used carbide tips for sign shop vinyl cutters and they can be night and day in result. It is not generic, C4 to C11 and there is also Tungsten Carbide -- tungsten carbide (WC) sintered with cobalt The cobalt ratio for either hardness or toughness.
Great explanation Matt! I was one of the guys asking about cost. I do a lot of work with mesquite, which eats blades. If I was re-sawing a block 6" - 10" sawing thickness, a carbon blade would allow me to cut about 10' before the blade wouldn't track at all (wondering). I purchased a couple of carbide blades and they were amazing. Unfortunately I paid much more than Matt did. I need to find a better supplier.
It's the same with abrasive wheels and discs when working with metal. Some abrasives will remove metal fast and some barely scratch the surface. Some cutoff wheels cut faster than others and some will make more cuts per wheel. Some wear out quickly and some will last a long time but the don't cut fast and get very hot. You have to find the ones that work best for what you are using them for. One manager at work was looking at the prices and decided we were spending too much so he purchased some cheaper wheels. He had to be shown the difference.
I bought a woodmizer carbide after watching Matt saw off his stop. I had logs I knew had metal in. The 3rd piece of metal I hit cleared half the teeth off. I don't know why it was so different in my case.
Really enjoyed this one. Previously thanks to one of your happy hour videos and an older video I upgraded my small 14 inch Delta with a riser block to a carbide blade on your observations and recommendations, awesome advice. I have noticed that even though I updated the tension spring on this thirty year old saw I have a tough time getting it tensioned correctly. Also small diameter wheels might be a factor. Regardless best blade ever, thanks again.
Just checked & Wood-Mizer don’t have 1 1/2” available at the moment. Only 1 1/4” and 3”. Also delayed delivery due to supply issues (until Jan ‘24). Hopefully another option is available. I use 1 1/2” blades at 221” on my sawmill.
Thank you for that detailed review of the different types of blades. Have you ever hit a piece of ceramic like an insulator in a log? If you have how did the blade handle it?
Great & informative video. Seems that you have your bandsaw sawmill running really efficiently. I was wondering if you had ever seen bandsaw mill blades that cut from both sides ? Thanks Jason
On bigger saws. You can’t provide trust support to the back of the blade so you have to rely on the blade’s tension to not be pushed off the back of the wheel
Could be your next band saw sawmill improvement to get even more productive! Even though your bandsaw sawmill is very productive it seems. Thanks for answering back . Jason
You really have a talent for making these "My experience with X" type of videos informative and interesting. You always seem to cover all the basis. Very analytical.
I shall try a carbide blade and report back. Woodland Mills HM130 is my mill. I will say by switching to 1.5 wide blades vs 1.25 wide blades has been very beneficial for me. Have you checked out Joe Maine down in Georgia for carbide blades 1.5 wide?
Thanks- I missed that video. Have you ever been contacted by a person who uses a outside wood stove? Good souse for him to use and maybe be easier on your work schedule. Years ago we use to heat the house with slap wood that dad purchased.
I bought a carbide toothed blade for cutting veneer but it looks like it is time to start using it more often on the hardwood logs especially the pecan and hickory. Think I will stick with a a CS blade on the pine and cedar, at least till I run out of them. Thanks for an informative video. Answered alot of questions about the carbide blades and if it was worth it to run them overall.
So I take that a 2 inch wide carbide blade is the standard if more people make it? Would you upgrade to a biiger set of wheels then knowing that now if you were designing your sawmill?
Matthew what has been your experience when hitting the older style cutter (iron) nail, does this effect your carbide blades differently than modern steel.
Silly question but here it goes, when a tree grows is it from the center or the outside diameter. If you put a nail in a young tree and milled it 100 years will the nail be in the center.
Could you run the 2" blades on ur saw? Since you do have 30" wheels seems like it could handle it. I have been contemplating my build to use 2" carbide blades.
It used to be that circular saws shipped with non carbide blades. No one actually used them and just switched to a carbide blade immediately. I had my jet 14" bandsaw for years but didn't really use it. Then stumpy nubs prompted me to get a carbide band. Now I use the saw all. The. Time. Why do they even sell all metal bands? At least the bigger ones for resaw? It's the only way to go. I'm still on my first blade.
Metal fatigue. Is that part of the retire when dull reasoning? sharpening is easy with a natural diamond composite blade. For hard steel a cheaper option is synthetic diamond. These options are lightyears ahead of standard abrasives. Plated diamond blades may also be an option for bandsaw blades. Cleaner cutting, less abrasive dust, less heat into the blade.
Looking for carbide saw blade, can someone post link to best place to order from looking for 144" x1.25 7/8 pitch blade. For hard wood, I see the wood mizer ripper not sure well they hold up..
![Chino Pacas - Smith (ft. Junior H & Fuerza Regida) [Video Visualizador Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BVK6k56X30Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey Matt, My Grandfather Fred Clas, who passed away at 99 in December 2021 invented the process to attach carbide to saws/drills etc as an apprentice for the Watervliet Arsenal just prior to the breakout of WWII. He produced short movies detailing the process for Ford, GM, etc and was credited for a measured 10,000 percent increase in machining productivity during the war. You talk about cutting metal.. that was the idea. He's had flags flown over the White House in his honor, and went on to invent other metallurgical processes before running the Arsenal for more than 40 years as a civilian. As a woodworker, it's humbling to not only use his technology today, but to see people like you who I have watched for ages enjoy the benefits. It's downright cool honestly.
Great story about your Grandfather. Thank you for sharing it with us. As a machinist, I certainly appreciate his contribution to mankind and the world. Cheers, Ed
I like the multi-scene cinematography in this video. Very John Green!
Easiest way to break up a talking video 😄
You could’ve just led with the fact that you cut through your sidestop and it didn’t dull the blade and I would’ve been sold. I’ve only had my sawmill long enough to cut through the stop once, but when it happened, it was the first cut on a new blade . I felt it in my soul.
Yeah that pretty much sells it
I hear that. It's a crazy selling point
What a beautiful property you have, Matt! No dogs barking, no cars with straight pipes rumbling, no construction noise, only beautiful nature.
"no construction noise"... except for the telehandler, skid steer, sawmill, and whatever else he's got going on on any given day 😂
@@notatoad I was thinking about construction noise made by neighbors.
Cleverly produced narrative with change of backgrounds. Plus informative.
Less down time and less headache are very hard to argue with.
Thanks for mentioning Lumber Capitol Log Yard! That family works their tails off up there in Pennsylvania. Great youtube channel also.
Nice call out for LCLY!
Good Morning Cremona Family.
Thanks, what a timely video. A friend has a 30'' sawmill that I've been helping put together and saw a few logs. He will be giving a demo tonight at our woodturning club and has been wondering about carbide blades. Roy follows you too. Now I want a sawmill.
The only thing better than having a sawmill is having a good friend with a sawmill
I am sold! Too bad they have an estimated delivery date of January 2024! I can’t wait that long
Mattew WOw I been watching for awhile now from start of the build to Now.Dude your mill rocks !!
Super interesting video. Not quite ready for a sawmill at this point in my life (hopefully someday), but each Matt-sawmill-video pushes me closer!
Just wanted to let you know that you are truly an inspiration between your marvelous woodworking and sawmill exploits. I live in Hawaii on the island of Oahu in a rather tight suburban setting. No room for a sawmill here. However there was a time when my wife and I were looking to move to the big island near Hawi and it was my goal to get a lot big enough to allow me to build your sawmill and start my own urban log rescue. As you might guess there are some remarkable exotic trees growing all over and routinely cut down and sent through the wood chipper. Monkeypod and Mango probably are the most common. Unfortunately the property prices have climbed and the dream has become highly unlikely. Keep posting so us urban livers can keep living the dream vicariously. 😎🤙
Thank you for an informative view on this. I've ran carbide on circular saws for years. We cut a lot of boards with concrete on them and the carbide held up well. I've been considering them for my mill. I believe you just helped make up my mind.
Always enjoy your videos.
Good job on explaining the the differences. I enjoy your channel. Best wishes.
Good job covering bandsaw blades. Always been a fan.
another great video. thanks for sharing.
I love the business side, and pro-con type of video on your tools. Even though I don't have a sawmill, I have learned to think about my shop differently because of your videos. :-) especially as a hobbies, enjoyment is more important. :-)
Very educational for people that are in the same realm of work. Especially when it comes to wood. Thank you for sharing😊
Great video Matt! The carbide blades is so inexpensive I might just start buying them for my sawyer when he cuts my logs.
I always think of smithing the used blades into damascus knives... been watching a lot of black smith videos 😂
I agree Matt, I won't use anything but a carbide tipped blade on all my saws, it's so much more worth it in the long run.
Appreciate the information about saw blades. I think your saw blade comparison applies to any wood working shop or tradesmen usage. Cool giving Lumber Capital Log Yard a shout-out. Their channel is a great insight into a family run commercial lumber yard and saw mill operation. Always great information there.
Cutting through that 2X2, 1/4 wall square tubing sold me. Not that I have a bandsaw, but I went out and bought a carbide blade anyway.😂
I’m still using my chainsaw as a mill but this stuff is so interesting to me. Would love a bandsaw mill one day. Thanks for your time.
I started out milling with a stihl 661 and 36" bar.
After getting a norwood bandsaw mill, I realized the operational cost is wayyy cheaper vs chainsaw.
Good premix, fuel, and bar oil really adds up.
I still use chainsaw mill to make huge logs easier to handle on mill once in a blue moon.
Water and low octane fuel is all the bandsaw mill requires.
Besides the occasional motor oil change.
As a Welder / CAD Metal Designer - Fabricator found your video very interesting. Although I don't play with Dead Tree Carcasses, the information was very informative.
Thank you for all the information. I'm one of the people who where wondering about the weight of the log on the blades. Great information
Thanks Matt. Love the shots of your property also. The Radio Flyer shot was fun too! Have a good Fall.
Very good vid.
Cheers,
Lee
You are so smart, I'm always learning something watching you. 😀
Fantastic! I’ve never seen such a clear experienced review of carbide blades. Thanks for referencing Lumber Capital’s review too.
What cbalano said. You have provided your kids with such a beautiful place to grow up!
Very informative. Glad you included info from another sawmill I watch.
Thanks Matt!
Thank you Matt learned more from this than any other band saw mill video I've ever seen
Found the same thing, I’m using ripper 37 now vs standard woodland blades, milling lumber for people who aren’t planning the material so it was extra important. Even milled 24 inch logs I noticed a huge difference. At 110 hours now at my 7 month mark of owning the mill
Man thank you so much for sharing all of this! I am going to try some carbide blades as soon as I can!!! 💪🏻😎👍🏻
Hi a couple of nice kitchen units lurking in Big Barn Thing, Great video again I wish I had the space
Very insightful Matt. I always wondered why metal didn't seem to be the slightest concern for you. I had no idea these carbide blades make metal virtually a non-issue. For someone like me who's cutting a lot of urban logs, this really is a no-brainer.
i really enjoyed all the different back drops for different parts of ur vid
When I saw you cut through that 2" tube I went out and bought a carbide resaw blade for my (vertical) bandsaw. It's a little annoying that these 96" carbine blades cost only a little less than what you paid for your 26' blades but hey, compared to the non-carbide blades I figure these are worth 10x if not more, because they stay sharp for so much longer. I've got carbide on my jointer, planer, and slab flattening jig now too, even my lathe tools - it's such a superior material for most types of cutting. I agree with your observation that they don't really dull so much as they shatter and need to be replaced (easy with shellix style heads, less so with bandsaw blades).
Great info on carbide blades! That was big mystery. Marketing is to but depends on location&nobody wants competition
Woodmizer is having carbide shortage issues and can't ship blades until Jan. of 2024. Thanks for the video Matt!
Wow amazing information i have a carbide ready to try on my lx250
Are there any blade smiths in your area? The old high carbon steel blades can be used to make cannister Damascus, so you might be able to find someone to haul away the old steel, and even pay you for it.
That’s what happened to the majority of the old ones. The others that were still in good shape and not missing teeth were sent to someone who built one of these saws to practice with their new sharpener
Hmm, for sure, food for thought. I mostly cut up bowl blanks for my lathes. I have a Lennox dealer in town who makes the blades for me. Oh, bit bandsaw is a Laguna 16HD. I asked my dealer about the carbide blades and was told 'they are only for cutting veneers. I tried a Lennox blade once, and walnut seems to dull all of my cutting tools more than just about any wood. It seemed dull after cutting up a bunch of walnut. The teeth on it were so tiny that they could not be resharpened. I may have to look into the Woodmiser carbide blades. I have been using the Lennox bimetal blades. I believe the harder metal is M42 high speed steel, and it is the same metal, but different tooth set and shape, that is used for the pallet cutting blades. I know the bimetal blades can be resharpened several times, and an important part of the process is to reset the teeth.
As for table saw blades, I use ATBR blades, alternate tooth bevel and raker teeth. The ATB does open up the cut a slight bit so the blade doesn't bind, unless there is 'tension' in the wood from not being dried properly. I had wondered about the blade pressure when leaving all the other slabs on top as you cut. Hope you know some turners for all of your off cuts.
I have been meaning to comment on this subject with just this question. Thanks for covering it so well. I love all of your content however It would be nice to see more clips of your Children as they are growing through the years, your interaction with them is heart warming. I also miss your live Friday evenings with your wife, Very entertaining and a good catch-up on you and your family's life intertwined with informative insights on things done and coming up.
I use stellite tipped blades and get about 4 hours cutting time before I have to reduce my feed speed to keep a really straight cut. The guy who sharpens them for me said that running them dull is what damages the blade so I am happy to swap for a sharp one more often. Only blade crack I have had so far is from running a dull blade.
Was waiting for when you accidentally cut a square tube.
Remember how surprised you were. 12:45
Alot of good information. Love seeing the huge logs you put on the mill.
Very good video. Very informative.
Really interesting to get some numbers out of you: 500-600 bucks for a slab, fascinating. More than I thought.
To put that into perspective. 500-600 is on the low side. A nice walnut or maple slab around 4' wide is in the thousands.
Good info from a pro for those with a bandsaw wood mill.
Even Carbide is rated in hardness and you should know what you are getting. We used carbide tips for sign shop vinyl cutters and they can be night and day in result. It is not generic, C4 to C11 and there is also Tungsten Carbide -- tungsten carbide (WC) sintered with cobalt The cobalt ratio for either hardness or toughness.
Great explanation Matt! I was one of the guys asking about cost. I do a lot of work with mesquite, which eats blades. If I was re-sawing a block 6" - 10" sawing thickness, a carbon blade would allow me to cut about 10' before the blade wouldn't track at all (wondering). I purchased a couple of carbide blades and they were amazing. Unfortunately I paid much more than Matt did. I need to find a better supplier.
Great stuff Matt!
Lake Havasu 🌞 Az
THANK YOU Matt
It's the same with abrasive wheels and discs when working with metal. Some abrasives will remove metal fast and some barely scratch the surface. Some cutoff wheels cut faster than others and some will make more cuts per wheel. Some wear out quickly and some will last a long time but the don't cut fast and get very hot. You have to find the ones that work best for what you are using them for. One manager at work was looking at the prices and decided we were spending too much so he purchased some cheaper wheels. He had to be shown the difference.
I bought a woodmizer carbide after watching Matt saw off his stop. I had logs I knew had metal in. The 3rd piece of metal I hit cleared half the teeth off. I don't know why it was so different in my case.
Very informative thank you for sharing I use carbide blades on most my saws and I wouldn’t use anything else
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO.
Really enjoyed this one. Previously thanks to one of your happy hour videos and an older video I upgraded my small 14 inch Delta with a riser block to a carbide blade on your observations and recommendations, awesome advice.
I have noticed that even though I updated the tension spring on this thirty year old saw I have a tough time getting it tensioned correctly. Also small diameter wheels might be a factor.
Regardless best blade ever, thanks again.
Solid information Matt, thanks for sharing your experience.
I learned something!😄
Just checked & Wood-Mizer don’t have 1 1/2” available at the moment. Only 1 1/4” and 3”. Also delayed delivery due to supply issues (until Jan ‘24). Hopefully another option is available. I use 1 1/2” blades at 221” on my sawmill.
I am convinced, I like carbide blades. I asked a sawyer in the northwest what he thought. Too expensive.
Thank you for that detailed review of the different types of blades.
Have you ever hit a piece of ceramic like an insulator in a log? If you have how did the blade handle it?
Never anything cool like that.
Great & informative video. Seems that you have your bandsaw sawmill running really efficiently. I was wondering if you had ever seen bandsaw mill blades that cut from both sides ? Thanks Jason
On bigger saws. You can’t provide trust support to the back of the blade so you have to rely on the blade’s tension to not be pushed off the back of the wheel
Could be your next band saw sawmill improvement to get even more productive! Even though your bandsaw sawmill is very productive it seems. Thanks for answering back . Jason
@@MrJh66sh I don’t think it would be worth it. The blades would need to be 6 or 8” wide and the wheels to run those would probably 30k.
You really have a talent for making these "My experience with X" type of videos informative and interesting.
You always seem to cover all the basis. Very analytical.
I appreciate hearing that. I put a lot of thought and planning into these
Good, informative video.
I shall try a carbide blade and report back. Woodland Mills HM130 is my mill. I will say by switching to 1.5 wide blades vs 1.25 wide blades has been very beneficial for me. Have you checked out Joe Maine down in Georgia for carbide blades 1.5 wide?
Same here...would love to hear the results
Have you had any trouble with the carbide blades breaking, I have already broken two and I hate it because I love the way they cut .
Thanks- I missed that video. Have you ever been contacted by a person who uses a outside wood stove? Good souse for him to use and maybe be easier on your work schedule. Years ago we use to heat the house with slap wood that dad purchased.
I bought a carbide toothed blade for cutting veneer but it looks like it is time to start using it more often on the hardwood logs especially the pecan and hickory. Think I will stick with a a CS blade on the pine and cedar, at least till I run out of them. Thanks for an informative video. Answered alot of questions about the carbide blades and if it was worth it to run them overall.
Great info Thanks again.
What about cracks in the gullets with the carbide tipped blades? Are you grinding the gullets when maintaining your blades?
Titanium nitride blades would be nice too.. or even cobalt blades.. but I'm not sure if anyone even makes them.
How much tension for the sawblade on your mill do you use as a standard? Ray
18-20ksi
When are you gonna build a bigger bandsaw mill. Apparently there are bigger blades more available. 2 logs at once?
That stack of old blades could become a nice set of knives or axes in the hands of a talented blacksmith.
I only use carbide blades. Thanks!
So I take that a 2 inch wide carbide blade is the standard if more people make it? Would you upgrade to a biiger set of wheels then knowing that now if you were designing your sawmill?
We need a restoration of that manure spreader.
Maybe you should setup your saw To 2" blades, if they are readily available...
Matthew what has been your experience when hitting the older style cutter (iron) nail, does this effect your carbide blades differently than modern steel.
Silly question but here it goes, when a tree grows is it from the center or the outside diameter. If you put a nail in a young tree and milled it 100 years will the nail be in the center.
Yes
Could you run the 2" blades on ur saw? Since you do have 30" wheels seems like it could handle it. I have been contemplating my build to use 2" carbide blades.
I can. Would have to swap my rollers and reset the tracking
So would if done again you go with 2" so to have more blade choices? What would be involved in changing out for 2"? Wheels, guides other??
Just need to swap the rollers (which I have) and adjust the tracking. 1.5” seems to do just fine and comes at a lower cost
It used to be that circular saws shipped with non carbide blades. No one actually used them and just switched to a carbide blade immediately.
I had my jet 14" bandsaw for years but didn't really use it. Then stumpy nubs prompted me to get a carbide band. Now I use the saw all. The. Time.
Why do they even sell all metal bands? At least the bigger ones for resaw?
It's the only way to go. I'm still on my first blade.
Did you say you now buy your blades from woodmiser?
Metal fatigue. Is that part of the retire when dull reasoning? sharpening is easy with a natural diamond composite blade. For hard steel a cheaper option is synthetic diamond. These options are lightyears ahead of standard abrasives. Plated diamond blades may also be an option for bandsaw blades. Cleaner cutting, less abrasive dust, less heat into the blade.
You could send your old dull blades to a RUclips knife maker like Green Beetle to make a Damascus knife.
good video. thanks. The saw in the barn, do you still use it?
Yes, we do batch video production
The last scene used (with the hot tire 😀), the prop looked like a PTO driven manure spreader to me. Is that correct?
Correct
Will you ever upgrade your sawmill to a self-run one?
Is that a spreader you are sitting on at the end?
Looking for carbide saw blade, can someone post link to best place to order from looking for 144" x1.25 7/8 pitch blade. For hard wood, I see the wood mizer ripper not sure well they hold up..
Does the Resaw King line from Laguna go this big??