I just got a bbshd few months back and I just installed it a couple of days ago and was just searching for some stuff abut it and this vid just popped I was so hyped cause I'm following you now for a few years now and I'm impressed....
The key to success always seems to be making content you truly enjoy producing. Most people come here for Louis Rossmann, and not for the Macs. When you don't enjoy making the video, people enjoy the video less.
in a normal gear the bits and rocks would get pulverized. Also in a normal gear the most hardest things in your vehicle are the gears...these things don't just randomly crumble. It's a bit weird , that this happens in a lowperformance vehicle where the forces and temperatures exerted on the gear are not realy a challange to a properly manufactured gear.
definitely plastic gear debris.. ur gears probably stripping or bending out of place because its plastic and ur puting 300 to 1500 watts through it i could be mistaken
14:14 - I lost it. Can't hit play again. Still giggling uncontrollably. Thanks man! You made my day... Was watching your tear down a bike motor and now just trying to wipe the tears out of my eyes and breathe deep. My side hurts. Will have to watch more later. That brought out my immature side, and not much does that anymore. Thanks again!
49:57 “See the ridges” also “One way clutch bearing” I’m guessing, and I’m not an expert on that motor assembly… At first I thought it was a splined axle assembly but I’m guessing those “ridges” are needle cam bearings. They should move freely in one direction but lock in the opposite direction. Rotate it one direction and the cam bearings slide effortlessly over the surface of that axle with the small helical gear attached. Rotate it in the opposite direction and the cams lock against the axle surface and cause it to turn in sympathy with the nylon helical gear. But I may be wrong.
This could be very well the source for squealing: the bearings could be slipping instead of locking. Worst case would be the nylon gear slipping on the bearings...
They are needle bearings on a ramp, when you turn it one way they run in the low part of the ramp and let the shaft spin free. When you turn it the other way they slide up the ramp, wedging onto the shaft.
I think you have a winner working on these motors. I love physics. I’m working on a motor with pure silver wire windings. I’ve been rebuilding these ebike motors and building controllers for 20 years. Nice to see young people like you getting into this! Keep up the good work!
Louis: “I have given the world a gift, my experiences in MacBook repairs.” Also Louis: “Now I wish to extend my gift to you with random stuff I succeed in fixing!” Louis, when you have a systematic approach to repairing, it’s applied knowledge. Then you can pretty much fix anything at all, even without schematics or exploded diagrams. I’ve fixed lots of things by observation and listening with no prior knowledge of the ‘thing’ I’m fixing. Of course, I started working in the Electronics Industry almost two years ago because your videos inspired me. Prior to that, it was mostly hobby-type repairs. And my qualifications are all electronics based.
Usually I watch for your electronics knowledge. I'm a machinist by trade over the years I have been watching your content trying to siphon off just bits of your electronics expertise. It's cool to listen to you go through the same process you use trouble shooting electronics on an mechanical assembly. Some people are just good a fixing stuff regardless of what.
@@Damicske bbshd runs 52v @ 30a stock, so 1560w average. Full charge from the 52v battery will sit around 58v and @ 30 amps will hit 1740w. These motors will take 3500w from a 72v battery with aftermarket controllers all day long(as long as you dont lug the motor in too high of a gear). My 500w bbs02 would constantly pull 1250w on my 52v system. 2000km later and still runs good as day one
1:33:00 It seems like you didn't make the connection so forgive me if I'm telling you something you already know. When you blasted that motor and got the high temp, considering the thermal lag, the core got hotter than your temp gauge ever went. Stopping would have only slowed the cooling of the case and thermometer and given you a more accurate reading of the core's actual temperature. The moment you stopped putting power to it (barring any minor heating from friction) no more heat was generated and it was the hottest it was going to get, all the other effects are just a side effect of the sensor lying to you about knowing what the motor's internal temperature is. It's like judging a CPU's max temp off of the fan exhaust. Yeah it gets you a general idea, but it won't catch a hot spot and you'll be late in catching a spike.
what you describe sounds like one of the halleffect sensors for the brushless motor died so the controller doesnt know where the motor is at , hence once its rotating it helps the controller the initial start of the motor , i had this effevt with quiet a few hoverboards , new halleffect sensor and they work again
i suggest testing the hall sensor supply voltage and their signal outputs with a multimeter/osci and not with software through the controller via pc sometimes the fault is analog and no digital chip/software finds the issue
I know there are two freewheels in a Bafang motor. One engages when you pedal without assist, so it's easier to pedal not turning all the gears and the motor mechanism around with you. The other engages when you use throttle only, to stop the pedals spinning with the motor. The "throttle only" freewheel is the one on the big gear and pedals axle. The "pedal only" one is located further back in the drive train. I think in the nylon gear itself. When you said the motor made the squeak, but didn't turn, did it sound like it was free spinning? Check the current use. If the gear train was jammed, the current will rise on power. If the freewheel is not engaging, the current will be low and the motor will just spin easily but not transfer power.
I might have the wrong terminalogy but that nylon gear with the one direction sprag might be worn down enough to not always grab on the shaft or a combination of the shaft might be equally warn enough not to grab.
That bearing in nylon gear is called a one way bearing. It spins free in one direction and locks up in opposite direction. Don't think you lube those or the shaft. Cuz the bearing might not be able to lock up to grab shaft. I worked with one of those on a traxxas nitro Revo with reverse.
I'm guessing a loose/intermittent hall sensor connection. If the controller/driver has no discrete 'switch' to enable sensorless and sensored drive, the cogging could be the controller trying to do a sensorless drive (or perhaps one of the hall phase sensor leads isn't making proper connection/faulty) and the startup load is too high, thus it cannot spin the motor enough to use the back-EMF to determine stator position. At some point, the controller will give up when it determines it cannot drive the motor, thus requiring a power cycle. This theory also aligns well considering you say the motor drives just fine 'at speed' (not dead stop), as most controllers will stop using the hall sensors to determine stator position and relies entirely on BEMF beyond very low RPM.
50:00 that is called a sprag clutch. They are also used in automobile automatic transmissions. See this vid by AvE for an amusing explanation -> ruclips.net/video/0QXrFUlFbQk/видео.html
The bearings inside the nylon gear are called "drawn cup roller clutches" or a "Sprag Clutch" making it a one way bearing. If and when these go bad they won't transfer torque from the shaft to the nylon bearing, but will instead slip and making a whining noise under load, like starting out. I would replace that bearing inside the nylon gear.
You need to get an impact driver tool. One where you put a screw bit on one end, then hit the other end with a hammer. The impact forces the bit down and turns it at the same time. Very good at getting stuck screw out!
the bearing in the plastic gear is another clutch bearing - it squeezes the shaft when you spin it a certain direction. Also, debris in the gear will definitely keep the motor from working - the reee-ee-e motor noises you hear on startup is the motor controller trying to spin the motor to calibrate itself on startup. if the motor can't spin, the controller can't calibrate and turns off rather than attempt to spin normally anyway - which could definitely make it let out the magic smoke.
Aye this video saved my ass. Helped me fix mine and upgrade it with peek gears! I highly recommend this upgrade if you want a silent and strong gear system. Way better than nylon gears
Problem may be the one way bearing (Sticking - I.e. not allowing it to spin, the it releases and makes noise). The yellow stuff in the bearing is bearing grease. The more the grease the better. Also for the “sealed” bearings you can remove the seal and repack the bearings too. You can use one type grease for all of the bearings grease if you get a synthetic (I like “Super Lube” - It is dielectric too.). For the white gear, litho grease, best to stick to that.
Rossmann I genuinely love your logic process when diagnosing any issue so no matter the problem there is much to learn! Do what you like doing and tbh I’d be interested in seeing other content from you besides Macs
I often advised my fellow students while i was still in school and they asked "Brian, how come you know so much about this stuff?" Well I often learn by taking stuff apart, not saying you should go home and start taking every electric device apart but if one is broken, before tossing it, screw the cover off or whatever and see what's inside it and see what components are in it and google their function.
This is hilarious to finally watch Louis take apart something I understand better than him. The one way bearing blowing his mind at 51min was hilarious. Lmao GL man
It was extremely frustrating for me to watch this, and I'm no mechanic lol. I guess now I understand how Louis would scream at his screen if he watched me doing electronic repairs (of which I did not do that many). Funny though, I enjoyed the vidjayo.
You do you with the content. Ive always found your videos interesting, albeit I was getting a bit bored with the apple stuff, although I learned something new everytime.... Keep up the educational and great content 👍
49:56 - About those "ridges" (as you call it), I can probably answer that based on an observation that I did a few months ago on a totally different application, but something that looked equally similar to what you are showing there. I was tasked to repair my mother's "spin mop" mechanism. The problem that my mother's spin mop was having is that when she depressed the foot pedal, sometimes it would spin just fine, but some times it would go right thru without spinning it sometimes, that it would work some times, maybe about 75% of the time the lever is depressed, not a bid deal in my opinion, but it was enough to annoy my mother and she wanted to get this fixed totally. Well, upon disassembling the basket, it didn't reveal absolutely much, it only reveals a long metallic shaft that goes directly in the bottom center of the basket that spins, but there was absolutely no mechanism or the so-called big and easy to access "clutch" that I was expecting to see (that I through I was going to be able to repair without having to replace it), instead, I saw something that looks very similar to what you showed on minute 49:56 of your video, but a smaller version of that, it has "ridges" that looked exactly like that, and its function appears to be to ensure that the basket can only spin in one direction. When the lever is depressed, the metallic shaft spins in one direction, spinning the basket with it, but then the user stops depressing, the basket continues spinning rather than just stopping and going in reverse. This is achieved by a one-way clutch that is very tiny and is integrated into something that looks very small. When I understood that the whole "mechanism" that I was looking for was integrated into that tiny sealed up thing, I instantly knew that this was not repairable without replacing that whole clutch thing. Fortunately googling "spin mop clutch replacement" brings up many vendors that do sell these replacements, but the bottom line that it sucks not being able to repair this without having to buy replacement parts. My take of the problem that you described with the bafang could radiate with that part. That part appears to be the actual "clutch" of the whole bafang motor you have there. The reason why the smaller gear is able to turn the big nylon gear despite having a smooth surface on the other side's shaft is that those "ridges" attach to the smooth surface and makes hard contact allowing the Nylon gear to be moved along with the smaller metallic gear, and when the power is cut off from the motor, or you simply want to pedal normally without any power involved, the gear is now spinning in the opposite direction, and on that direction, those "ridges" simply gives away not spinning the rest of the motor. That "grrrr" noise you described at the beginning simply means that those "ridges" failed to make proper contact with the metallic (shaft) surface, it's making partial contact, not strong enough, it wants to hold on to, but due to some problems (perhaps some wear on those "ridges") it is making those jamming noise, it's jamming against the smooth metallic surface as the smaller gear is spinning, trying to spin the bigger nylon gear but because to not enough traction formed by those "ridges", you hear the noise instead. It is also the very same noise I would hear whenever I depress my mother's Spin Mop and the basket would not spin, or would spin partially, instead you heard like some sort of grinding/gearing noise, but you would not hear anything when it decides to work just fine. I think the problem is that the whole part as shown in 49:56, you may have to order a replacement of that part. It looks like Bafang is engineered in such a way that it makes it impossible to fix without having to totally replace that part, just like my Mother's spin mop was totally impossible to fix without having to purchase a new one-way clutch replacement. This sucks, this smells like planned failure. and to make it as difficult as possible to even gain access to that area for you to see how the clutch mechanism works and to replace that part, they install three very difficult to remove Phillips screws that appears like if they applied some glue to it before they screw it in, I mean, those screws appeased very abnormally difficult to remove without applying some monumental force to it.
Thank you for explaining this. I think the axle the one-way clutch is spinnning/ catching onto being made of chinesium + shite quality one-way clutch explain the noise. I would bet galore that if Louis measured with a precision tool across the diameter of the axle at different angles on the axle he would find the surface to be an ovoid instead of a circle. If this is so, then given the torque at start, then (at times) only very few of the many roller pins engage (instead of them all) and slippage occurs, causing the noise. TL;DR: chinesium shaft + not skookum enough one-way clutch produces noise; on the long run shaft + one-way clutch will be kaputt
Louis made a two hour motor tear down? I'm all in. Seriously though. It's nicely built. Beautiful needle bearings. The other great thing about electric motors is they either work or they don't. Really. They're just copper coils and varnish. If it spins the mechanical is likely fine. Usually when there is electrical noise and the motor won't start, stalls or runs shitty its because of electronics. Whether thats a VFD or whatever. Something that's probably in your wheel house.
Missed the stream but enjoyed the upload, as someone who dabbles a lot in tech, but also in auto repair and other mechanical stuff, this was fun to watch. This is the same way I stumble through learning a lot of stuff, just tear it apart and try to figure it out as you go.
I've a 48V 21ah battery pack to take apart and find out what went wrong..I used the pack twice only to have it short (Heard an electrical "click" then smelled something burning) when i go to charge it up a 3rd time. Upon further inspection, the charging port on the battery pack itself was shifted out of place by at least 3-5mm causing the charger to angle and cause the problem. It's a Eunorau brand battery pack :p. I do enjoy your videos on ebike repair, you're no "master", but you are a great many levels of knowledge above me, learning each time from, you and these vids, I vote more e-bike vids! :D I ride an M2S All Terrain R750, just under 900 miles on it since June this year. Happy new year Louis!
Or...I could send you the battery to repair for a video if you would like to ponder the idea...No pressure whatsoever if you can't fix it or it breaks further, I'll pay you what you desire for the repair (and shipping both ways), if it is irreparable you may have it for spare parts or whatever you desire,and I (we) would learn a LOT :).
Subscriber here. Following you for right to repair related videos and insights into laptop design by handling complaints. Never thought id find you on an unrelated ebike repair
the motor my have a weak lead winding causing the motor to stall for not knowing which way to rotate as lead winding/start winding does that. If you look at the winding of the motor next time you take one apart you will see a bundle of the winding a tad bigger gage then the rest of the windings. This usually happens to motors from over current from low voltages or trying to start motor with it stalled/output jammed. I hope you enjoy all the comments I have posted while watching you work on the motor.
It also could be that RUclips simply doesn't show us your videos because I almost never see one of your videos on my feed. I have to go directly to your channel to see your videos. RUclips keeps showing me videos I don't give a flying leap about but leaves out my favorite RUclipsrs.
19:23 That motor type is actually exactly the same build as used in Tesla engines, very efficient and good shit but more meant for high rpm than low so its thus totally normal to see a gear reduction.
@Louis, OK I am at the 55min mark, so don't shoot me if someone has answered this already in the stream. The One-Way-Clutch has been used tons in the automotive industry primarily in automatic transmissions. While there are many different designs. The one that appears to be in your bikes gear housing is one that slips in one direction, but the other direction is locks by essentially wedging the pieces against the inner and outer part of the assembly. Outer being the metal race the nylon gear is attached to and inner being the small shaft that had the bits of WTF stuck to it. Now they can slip in the non-slippy direction and often do when they get wore down over time. Often you will see shiny flat spots start to wear out on them. But they can also fail to lock if something on the shaft has jammed up the housing. I have seen them in automatic transmissions jam up and flip or bust into pieces from this. But TLDR they work like a wedge, no tension in one direction, but is designed to jam up in the other. Which is how the clutch is designed to turn in one direction and not the other. Cheers.. Joe
I'm just watching this now. Here louis is looking for water damage or a crummy bearing. And I'm seeing one staring at me at various points throughout the the stream. 10:00 you have got a bearing that is pressed into the main bottom bracket shell. That one is most exposed tot he elements and most likely could be failed. Need a bearing puller to get it out. Bit of threaded rod, nuts and washers would do the trick.
I'm at the part of the video where you're looking for "snapring pliers" and I'm really enjoying your understanding of the internet and how to get answers 🤣😂😅
The white pellets are most likely not rocks, but additive powders to the grease. Trust me i used to manufacturer many different greases, and even tho it was smooth it had chunks like that in it
LOUIS - I was hoping you would place the nylon gear on the shaft for an understanding how it is attached to the small metal gear on the other end. If that is a friction fit, it would explain the squeal noise.when the gear slips on the shaft. And when the gear and shart are both stopped, starting slowly it would friction start and work. All that grease likely those parts should stay clean,. Humidity would lessen the friction on the nylon gear shaft and cause the squeal noise and inability to start. Color me convinced.
The "clutch" side (your words) is a Sprag Clutch so your right. but think I noticed that the Pinion gear may be damaged if so the pinion could "climb" the bull gear which is on the "clutch" side, that is a common failure and will cause the gears to lock up or "stall" the motor. Again I see the damage on the pinion gear which is the small gear that drives the larger gears and is on the other side of the "clutch". "One way bearings" are usually called "SPRAG clutches". I thought saw spalling on the wormed gear shaft that runs against the plastic white gear. It's another "pinion" wormed pinions can't climb but will stall if foreign objects get in between. If you found rocks in there you need to find the hole and block dirt and rocks from entering. BTW watching you repair electronics I state "you can make crooked things straight". As far as the "yellow shit" In our trade when in doubt "giver some grease" the "black" grease is from dirt & wear it was probably all yellow when new.
Stream what you want Louis, it's all educational and entertaining. Electric bikes are becoming mainstream and soon cycles and cars. We desert country folk love the bike rides through NYC, maybe VR in the future?
So heating up the casing and screws is well known trick for mechanics with rusty bults and screws they won’t come loose. What iv heard about it is when you heat up the metal it exspands and when cold it kinda shrinks. That’s at least my understanding. And idk how warm that gets when in use but maybe it’s shrieked or something
Lovely to see my favorite motor on display here, and finally there's something I'm better at than Lois. 😀 I have tuned all my BBSHD controllers, the last one awaits a new battery to go 92V and 50A. Re-grease of the motor is almost mandatory, and Mobilith SHC100 or Mobil28 are good choices for this. Btw you should use a power tool and hex bits for when working on a motor like this. Too many bolts to tighten.
Hey Ross. The first big gear you see once you open the motor doesn't come with enough grease from the factory. You should get a shit load of moly grease in there yourself, run it for 5-10 minutes and then put some more. Also, you should put lithium dry grease on the nylon gear inside, just make sure it's the non corrosive kind. The motors should last you a lot longer, and they will have a tiny bit more performance .
To get that stuck screw out, try using a manual impact driver. You put one in a vice and wind it up, then put the bit on the screw and hit the back of the driver with a hammer. But the hot air rework station worked too! Use what you got...
I'd go for controller .. looks like out of phase. I assume this is a brushless DC motor. There is a sensor to communicate the speed of the motor to the controller and then the controller keeps working on which coil to energize. I'd clean the sensor(s) and check wiring to controller. If the hall effect sensor is not very well or not placed in the right position, you will have similiar issue.
Not at all. Except you do have a lock ring pliers and open them too much. Keep a finger, open a little and roll off the shaft. Eye protection is a must in a workshop at any time.
I've been a safety glasses/face cover advocate ever since a sharp piece of wood smacked me in the forehead in a resistant materials class. An inch lower and it would have went through my eye
I have found that IPA wicks under silicone and separates it cleanly from the surface to which it is applied. I have used that many times to leave a clean surface. It’s easy to use a scalpel to cut it where it surrounds cables.
Those pieces were in there from assembly IMHO. I don't see holes big enough for them to enter. Only holes are the ones on the rotating part, but it looks like some bolts holding something onto it go in there?
I really love the way how he figures it all out with the help of his fans ^^ Nice to see the internet can be helpful sometimes. *edit* hmmmm apparently not all the time :O people purposly giving bad advise :@
I really think you need to realize that Macbook repairs only really appeal to: a) customers trying to find out if their product was featured b) that small sector of humans out there that are interested in this Meanwhile, when you're talking about NY and neighboring states, you're pretty much appealing to every single citizen that knows how to use YT. So of course you'll be more successful when you talk about the city and its relevant issues, but your repair videos are also successful because you get a decent amount of that focused sector that likes seeing and hearing your thought process (like me). When you compare these 2 vastly different populations of viewers, repair videos will definitely look like a massive loss, so I'd say try to keep them apart instead of comparing one against the other. I'm really happy that you're making a 2nd major push for repairs with the start of your wiki, because that website will live on to show that you still actively want to make a push for right to repair, while teaching more people this art.
Hi, Not sure you found the problem ... From your failure it sounds to me like the motor is trying to start with only 2 of the 3 cables connected. So check the connection between controller and motor. If the 3rd makes contact for a sek, it will start and as soon as it has a spinn the 3rd is no longer needed.
You should write a Coffee Table Book about MacBooks Repair, like that the people that like MacBook repairs can buy the Book and have on their coffee table.
That "one way bearing" that spins the nylon gear is called a sprag clutch or sprag bearing. Applying torque one way causes the movable metal pieces to wedge against the axle, and torque in the other direction unwedges them, allowing them to simply slide on the axle.
Guilty. I am busy with the kiddo, and so I like to listen even when I can't watch, the board repair videos are not interesting for that, but i like hearing your opinions on things and do like watching *and listening to your more opinionated videos lol
@27:00 use torch or hot air to heat up the screws and then cool it down to release. At the time of writing this I watched and saw you doing it.... Use impact wrench with tightly fit Philip's bit to undo the screws.
@20:00 replace those connectors with bullet type gold plated ones. You can buy different styles/sizes from China. I think the difficult start could be related to programming of your controller, which is normally built into Bafang motors, unless you're using external one. Get a different controller and/or check operation of each of three hall sensors. One sensor could be faulty and it will give you trouble with motor start. Use quality consistent grease when taking things apart and assembling back. Clean old grease with Brake clean spray or else similar.
It’s fun to see how you "fighting" with motor.... I am working with mechanical staff since I am 10 years old and it’s always fun. I really sad about kids now, whey stuck in they iPhones and Mac Books and miss a lot in real word. Oh yes, I do IT support, but knowledge how staff work in reality helps a lot.
Louis ! Do not put grease inside the white gear with the needle roller bearings. Needle roller bearings tend to have issues when packed with grease. Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) works extremely well here as it lubricates and has a LOT of "detergents" in it. If that needle roller bearing is actually a "one-way" bearing, DEFINITELY do not put grease in it or it won't unlock properly. I use a syringe with a leur-lok dispensing needle to oil these with ATF.
Around the 2h mark you're messing with a "thrust washer bearing". Pack that sucker with good thick grease and don't knock out or lose any of the balls in that cage. If a thrust washer set feels rough when pressing hard on it or if you can see "dents" from the balls in the washers, it needs to be replaced.
I have a bbshd here in NC, where it's not so cold. Maybe cold affects that nylon gear which breaks sometimes anyway. Lunacycle used to sell that gear. Got about 1000 miles on mine.
You're having what's called phase lock, it is a phenomenon when you are in between a high and low magnetically on your stator phase, AKA in between phases. That's why it sounds like it's single phasing, basically pushing and pulling at the same time. It's like trying to find neutral on a Ducati motorcycle where you just have to rock the bike back and forth until it clicks in, realigning the phases. It starts happening on older Staters, too much power also causes this phenomenon the electricity will also burn tiny little holes in your bearings which is another phenomenon, if you pedal to a stop this problem more than likely will go away naturally aligning your phases magnetically.
This sounds like a hall sensor has failed and the controller is trying to run the motor in openloop but this type of motor has a very weak flyback at low speeds so the controller cannot find the current location of the rotor fails
@@rossmanngroup i have had intermittent faults with them in cold weather.. test while hitting them with the cold spray aka canned air flipped. I had this on 2 bbshd's setups i built i have done over a hundred in the last 4 months so they are good little setups
U prolly need a rolling start. I feel the motor isnt optimized for a bicycle so i bet u wouldnt have the wierd sound if u lift the rear wheel, i betcha it wont make that sound. Any motors most wear and tear happens when going from 0 to ~5 mph. Also a cold motor going max rpm will ruin components too. U can lay down the throttle until everything warmed up
Thanks for doing this teardown. I was wondering what was inside them, very simple I am happy to see. In my biking days, if you wanted to get a true seal on a gasket, there were two rules. Always use a new gasket, and apply some gasket goo :-)
Ah! Lois!.... ok... a good/general rule of thumb with bearings, if you can see the ball bearings, the bearing itself is typically done and needs replacement... the bearing on the long shaft shows the ball bearings which tends to indicate its shot and needs replacement... bearings can cause the issues your experiencing additionally sometimes temporary seizures and permanent seizures...Google bearing issues which the first result will outline this...
You were right to skip the black grease on the sprag clutch. Most manufacturers of sprag clutches forbid the use of lubricants with EP additives (such as molybdenum disulfide).
The problem you describe sounds like a speed controller issue not a mechanical issue. I do not have enuf information from your video to determine the exact issue, so I'll just keep watching to see your results. good luck.
I think your problem is your wire connectors. I can see black on the connector on yellow wire. If that motor works like my brushless rc motor. If I disconnect one of my wires. The motor will turn a little then lock up and make a humming noise. If that connector on yellow wire has more resistant then the other 2 connectors. Might be doing the same thing. That's probably why your hear the noise your talking about. One of the 3 phases isn't getting enough current to keep the motor moving. Buy some high quality rc motor bullet connectors.
Too much grease will add weight/resistance to the rotor and perform in a lesser way than intended. Nylon wheels don't really need grease, even the less to use so much. (on the interior there's a ball bearing, and that needs some, but not too much, neither too low) A nylon wheel is meant to have some spring effect when transmiting power, it will not affect metal parts, it will ressist better to knocking, vibration, etc... while it will hopely break itself when there's something so bad that potentialy could damage something really important/expensive. Also in a closed airtighth system you don't need too much grease, just a very low ammount to avoid friction wear between moving parts, if you put too much it will act as a glue adding weight and stickiness to wheels/teeth/parts, and that's something you don't want. You always want the lowest grease ammount on anything. Thinner layer, lesser ressistance, same lubrication level. (you may learn a lot if start to read grease and oils viscosity grades) On exterior, or exposed parts, you need lots of grease, not for lubrication, but for water resistance, corrossion preventing and to get dust, rock pellets and nasty stuff to GET STICKY on it instead of going into important places.
I’m guessing that a regular overhaul might help. The unit looks as though it’s sealed. However, tiny fragments of metal will get into the greases and slowly destroy bearings or gear teeth. A reconditioning of the mechanical components is probably recommended. “Guaranteed for 20 years or 20,000 miles, whichever is sooner.”
I hope you put the white gear on the right way with the one way bearing. That is there so the motor does not have to be continuously powered and turning for the output (tire of bike) to be able to turn. That bearing allows for coasting. If you put the gear in backwards the motor will run and the output of the gearbox will not spin. If you run into this and after a lot of colorful words you will have to take it back apart and flip the gear over. Also you may have put way too much grease on the inside of the one way bearing as if too much the rollers in the inside will stick to the inside of the bearing housing and not come out and grip the primary shaft to turn it.
I just got a bbshd few months back and I just installed it a couple of days ago and was just searching for some stuff abut it and this vid just popped I was so hyped cause I'm following you now for a few years now and I'm impressed....
Same, long term subscriber, just about to buy a BBSHD and then this pops up. Never clicked on a video so fast haha.
@@KarlHamiltonwhere'd you buy? I see on alliexpress for 400
Great choice, I know guys with 30,000 miles on them.
The key to success always seems to be making content you truly enjoy producing. Most people come here for Louis Rossmann, and not for the Macs. When you don't enjoy making the video, people enjoy the video less.
a trick: you can watch series on Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using them for watching loads of movies during the lockdown.
@Anthony Cohen definitely, have been using flixzone} for years myself =)
I subscribed for Louis Rossman not for phone repair. I love that he is working on a Bafang because his video turned me on to ebikes.
Rocks aren’t supposed to be in there .
if these are even rocks, i would assume they are chips of either gear
in a normal gear the bits and rocks would get pulverized. Also in a normal gear the most hardest things in your vehicle are the gears...these things don't just randomly crumble. It's a bit weird , that this happens in a lowperformance vehicle where the forces and temperatures exerted on the gear are not realy a challange to a properly manufactured gear.
I hope he displays the motocoils in the shop window
definitely plastic gear debris.. ur gears probably stripping or bending out of place because its plastic and ur puting 300 to 1500 watts through it i could be mistaken
Probably why they sell steel gear
Remember, right to repair doesn't mean you have to be an expert at repair, just that you should have the right to TRY.
You have this right. Nobody will throw you in prison for repairing your stuff.
@@martintince ... yet.
14:14 - I lost it. Can't hit play again. Still giggling uncontrollably. Thanks man! You made my day... Was watching your tear down a bike motor and now just trying to wipe the tears out of my eyes and breathe deep. My side hurts. Will have to watch more later. That brought out my immature side, and not much does that anymore. Thanks again!
49:57 “See the ridges” also “One way clutch bearing”
I’m guessing, and I’m not an expert on that motor assembly… At first I thought it was a splined axle assembly but I’m guessing those “ridges” are needle cam bearings. They should move freely in one direction but lock in the opposite direction.
Rotate it one direction and the cam bearings slide effortlessly over the surface of that axle with the small helical gear attached.
Rotate it in the opposite direction and the cams lock against the axle surface and cause it to turn in sympathy with the nylon helical gear.
But I may be wrong.
This could be very well the source for squealing: the bearings could be slipping instead of locking. Worst case would be the nylon gear slipping on the bearings...
You're right it's called a cam clutch bearing, and the pliers are snap ring pliers, for use on external and internal snap rings.
They are needle bearings on a ramp, when you turn it one way they run in the low part of the ramp and let the shaft spin free. When you turn it the other way they slide up the ramp, wedging onto the shaft.
I think you have a winner working on these motors. I love physics. I’m working on a motor with pure silver wire windings.
I’ve been rebuilding these ebike motors and building controllers for 20 years.
Nice to see young people like you getting into this!
Keep up the good work!
A motor. This is different. Excited to see the logical process of trying to fix this.
Louis: “I have given the world a gift, my experiences in MacBook repairs.”
Also Louis: “Now I wish to extend my gift to you with random stuff I succeed in fixing!”
Louis, when you have a systematic approach to repairing, it’s applied knowledge. Then you can pretty much fix anything at all, even without schematics or exploded diagrams. I’ve fixed lots of things by observation and listening with no prior knowledge of the ‘thing’ I’m fixing.
Of course, I started working in the Electronics Industry almost two years ago because your videos inspired me. Prior to that, it was mostly hobby-type repairs. And my qualifications are all electronics based.
Usually I watch for your electronics knowledge. I'm a machinist by trade over the years I have been watching your content trying to siphon off just bits of your electronics expertise. It's cool to listen to you go through the same process you use trouble shooting electronics on an mechanical assembly. Some people are just good a fixing stuff regardless of what.
BB is "bottom bracket" the component on a bicycle that connects the pedals. H stands for "high torque" D is the motor rating which is 1000 watts
Odd they use D to represent 1000. I would have thought M was a better choice. In Roman numerals, D represented 500 and M represented 1000.
@@kjamison5951 It's Chinese, what else did you expect :) ow and the 1kW is probably peak power en 500W is de continuous power 🤡🤣
I h8 you. It stands for Heavy Duty
@@Damicske bbshd runs 52v @ 30a stock, so 1560w average. Full charge from the 52v battery will sit around 58v and @ 30 amps will hit 1740w. These motors will take 3500w from a 72v battery with aftermarket controllers all day long(as long as you dont lug the motor in too high of a gear).
My 500w bbs02 would constantly pull 1250w on my 52v system. 2000km later and still runs good as day one
1:33:00 It seems like you didn't make the connection so forgive me if I'm telling you something you already know. When you blasted that motor and got the high temp, considering the thermal lag, the core got hotter than your temp gauge ever went. Stopping would have only slowed the cooling of the case and thermometer and given you a more accurate reading of the core's actual temperature. The moment you stopped putting power to it (barring any minor heating from friction) no more heat was generated and it was the hottest it was going to get, all the other effects are just a side effect of the sensor lying to you about knowing what the motor's internal temperature is. It's like judging a CPU's max temp off of the fan exhaust. Yeah it gets you a general idea, but it won't catch a hot spot and you'll be late in catching a spike.
There is nothing more enjoyable than seeing someone doing what they enjoy, while learning something new! Awesome work!
I got a BBSHD for my bike after watching your vids, no problems yet it's pretty awesome actually. Thanks Louis!
3 years update?
@@likfrikbik Still works fine! But doesn't get used much these days...
So satisfying watching you taking on electro-mechanical device repair vee-jo. Euro Car Tech here.
I think people will love to see you fix anything... your process... (and commentary!)... is the fun part!
what you describe sounds like one of the halleffect sensors for the brushless motor died so the controller doesnt know where the motor is at , hence once its rotating it helps the controller the initial start of the motor , i had this effevt with quiet a few hoverboards , new halleffect sensor and they work again
i suggest testing the hall sensor supply voltage and their signal outputs with a multimeter/osci and not with software through the controller via pc
sometimes the fault is analog and no digital chip/software finds the issue
This is spot-on!!
I know there are two freewheels in a Bafang motor. One engages when you pedal without assist, so it's easier to pedal not turning all the gears and the motor mechanism around with you. The other engages when you use throttle only, to stop the pedals spinning with the motor. The "throttle only" freewheel is the one on the big gear and pedals axle. The "pedal only" one is located further back in the drive train. I think in the nylon gear itself.
When you said the motor made the squeak, but didn't turn, did it sound like it was free spinning? Check the current use. If the gear train was jammed, the current will rise on power. If the freewheel is not engaging, the current will be low and the motor will just spin easily but not transfer power.
you have taught me both, how to repair my phone, and now my friends bike.
louis, you are a repair god.
Snap-ring pliers come in both flavors...expanding and contracting. Because there are two kinds of snap-rings.
Mine go both ways. Just change gears.
I might have the wrong terminalogy but that nylon gear with the one direction sprag might be worn down enough to not always grab on the shaft or a combination of the shaft might be equally warn enough not to grab.
Another possibility is the nylon gear slipping on the metal bearings. Both possibilities would need a closer look.
Agreed. Wrote something similar before reading this.
That bearing in nylon gear is called a one way bearing. It spins free in one direction and locks up in opposite direction. Don't think you lube those or the shaft. Cuz the bearing might not be able to lock up to grab shaft. I worked with one of those on a traxxas nitro Revo with reverse.
You should look up electric motor stall. It is an actual thing, electric motors can stall because the position at the magnets and lack of torque.
I concur. I think this is the problem. Plus bad tolerances from poor manufacturing.
@@SerbanCMusca-ut8ny Bad tolerances and poor materials probably caused this one.
Are you sure this also applies to a BLDC inrunner motor like BBSHD with hall sensors here?
@@emilen2 no I am not sure. But he said stall. So.
Could this be bad (lazy) position of the hall sensors relative to the overlap of the winding phases?
I'm guessing a loose/intermittent hall sensor connection. If the controller/driver has no discrete 'switch' to enable sensorless and sensored drive, the cogging could be the controller trying to do a sensorless drive (or perhaps one of the hall phase sensor leads isn't making proper connection/faulty) and the startup load is too high, thus it cannot spin the motor enough to use the back-EMF to determine stator position. At some point, the controller will give up when it determines it cannot drive the motor, thus requiring a power cycle. This theory also aligns well considering you say the motor drives just fine 'at speed' (not dead stop), as most controllers will stop using the hall sensors to determine stator position and relies entirely on BEMF beyond very low RPM.
50:00 that is called a sprag clutch. They are also used in automobile automatic transmissions. See this vid by AvE for an amusing explanation -> ruclips.net/video/0QXrFUlFbQk/видео.html
Generally referred to as a sprag clutch but it’s not a sprag clutch. Roller and ramp type one way clutch.
AVE is great :)
@@groovedodger There's a creme for that. :D Louis might tell you that your PPBus is shorted, best get that looked at.
The bearings inside the nylon gear are called "drawn cup roller clutches" or a "Sprag Clutch" making it a one way bearing. If and when these go bad they won't transfer torque from the shaft to the nylon bearing, but will instead slip and making a whining noise under load, like starting out. I would replace that bearing inside the nylon gear.
Yeah., thats what even I was thinking!
You need to get an impact driver tool. One where you put a screw bit on one end, then hit the other end with a hammer. The impact forces the bit down and turns it at the same time. Very good at getting stuck screw out!
the bearing in the plastic gear is another clutch bearing - it squeezes the shaft when you spin it a certain direction.
Also, debris in the gear will definitely keep the motor from working - the reee-ee-e motor noises you hear on startup is the motor controller trying to spin the motor to calibrate itself on startup. if the motor can't spin, the controller can't calibrate and turns off rather than attempt to spin normally anyway - which could definitely make it let out the magic smoke.
Aye this video saved my ass. Helped me fix mine and upgrade it with peek gears! I highly recommend this upgrade if you want a silent and strong gear system. Way better than nylon gears
Problem may be the one way bearing (Sticking - I.e. not allowing it to spin, the it releases and makes noise). The yellow stuff in the bearing is bearing grease. The more the grease the better. Also for the “sealed” bearings you can remove the seal and repack the bearings too. You can use one type grease for all of the bearings grease if you get a synthetic (I like “Super Lube” - It is dielectric too.). For the white gear, litho grease, best to stick to that.
Rossmann I genuinely love your logic process when diagnosing any issue so no matter the problem there is much to learn! Do what you like doing and tbh I’d be interested in seeing other content from you besides Macs
I often advised my fellow students while i was still in school and they asked "Brian, how come you know so much about this stuff?" Well I often learn by taking stuff apart, not saying you should go home and start taking every electric device apart but if one is broken, before tossing it, screw the cover off or whatever and see what's inside it and see what components are in it and google their function.
This is hilarious to finally watch Louis take apart something I understand better than him. The one way bearing blowing his mind at 51min was hilarious.
Lmao GL man
Doesn't matter what your working on, you explain it to the point its interesting . always liked your videos .
I watched this after it was streamed . I'm a mechanic by trade and spent the entire video yelling at the screen lol
It was extremely frustrating for me to watch this, and I'm no mechanic lol. I guess now I understand how Louis would scream at his screen if he watched me doing electronic repairs (of which I did not do that many). Funny though, I enjoyed the vidjayo.
You do you with the content. Ive always found your videos interesting, albeit I was getting a bit bored with the apple stuff, although I learned something new everytime.... Keep up the educational and great content 👍
49:56 - About those "ridges" (as you call it), I can probably answer that based on an observation that I did a few months ago on a totally different application, but something that looked equally similar to what you are showing there. I was tasked to repair my mother's "spin mop" mechanism. The problem that my mother's spin mop was having is that when she depressed the foot pedal, sometimes it would spin just fine, but some times it would go right thru without spinning it sometimes, that it would work some times, maybe about 75% of the time the lever is depressed, not a bid deal in my opinion, but it was enough to annoy my mother and she wanted to get this fixed totally. Well, upon disassembling the basket, it didn't reveal absolutely much, it only reveals a long metallic shaft that goes directly in the bottom center of the basket that spins, but there was absolutely no mechanism or the so-called big and easy to access "clutch" that I was expecting to see (that I through I was going to be able to repair without having to replace it), instead, I saw something that looks very similar to what you showed on minute 49:56 of your video, but a smaller version of that, it has "ridges" that looked exactly like that, and its function appears to be to ensure that the basket can only spin in one direction. When the lever is depressed, the metallic shaft spins in one direction, spinning the basket with it, but then the user stops depressing, the basket continues spinning rather than just stopping and going in reverse. This is achieved by a one-way clutch that is very tiny and is integrated into something that looks very small. When I understood that the whole "mechanism" that I was looking for was integrated into that tiny sealed up thing, I instantly knew that this was not repairable without replacing that whole clutch thing. Fortunately googling "spin mop clutch replacement" brings up many vendors that do sell these replacements, but the bottom line that it sucks not being able to repair this without having to buy replacement parts.
My take of the problem that you described with the bafang could radiate with that part. That part appears to be the actual "clutch" of the whole bafang motor you have there. The reason why the smaller gear is able to turn the big nylon gear despite having a smooth surface on the other side's shaft is that those "ridges" attach to the smooth surface and makes hard contact allowing the Nylon gear to be moved along with the smaller metallic gear, and when the power is cut off from the motor, or you simply want to pedal normally without any power involved, the gear is now spinning in the opposite direction, and on that direction, those "ridges" simply gives away not spinning the rest of the motor.
That "grrrr" noise you described at the beginning simply means that those "ridges" failed to make proper contact with the metallic (shaft) surface, it's making partial contact, not strong enough, it wants to hold on to, but due to some problems (perhaps some wear on those "ridges") it is making those jamming noise, it's jamming against the smooth metallic surface as the smaller gear is spinning, trying to spin the bigger nylon gear but because to not enough traction formed by those "ridges", you hear the noise instead. It is also the very same noise I would hear whenever I depress my mother's Spin Mop and the basket would not spin, or would spin partially, instead you heard like some sort of grinding/gearing noise, but you would not hear anything when it decides to work just fine.
I think the problem is that the whole part as shown in 49:56, you may have to order a replacement of that part. It looks like Bafang is engineered in such a way that it makes it impossible to fix without having to totally replace that part, just like my Mother's spin mop was totally impossible to fix without having to purchase a new one-way clutch replacement. This sucks, this smells like planned failure. and to make it as difficult as possible to even gain access to that area for you to see how the clutch mechanism works and to replace that part, they install three very difficult to remove Phillips screws that appears like if they applied some glue to it before they screw it in, I mean, those screws appeased very abnormally difficult to remove without applying some monumental force to it.
Thank you for explaining this. I think the axle the one-way clutch is spinnning/ catching onto being made of chinesium + shite quality one-way clutch explain the noise.
I would bet galore that if Louis measured with a precision tool across the diameter of the axle at different angles on the axle he would find the surface to be an ovoid instead of a circle. If this is so, then given the torque at start, then (at times) only very few of the many roller pins engage (instead of them all) and slippage occurs, causing the noise.
TL;DR: chinesium shaft + not skookum enough one-way clutch produces noise; on the long run shaft + one-way clutch will be kaputt
@@SerbanCMusca-ut8ny Engage safety squints and everything works flawlessly.
Louis made a two hour motor tear down? I'm all in. Seriously though. It's nicely built. Beautiful needle bearings. The other great thing about electric motors is they either work or they don't. Really. They're just copper coils and varnish. If it spins the mechanical is likely fine. Usually when there is electrical noise and the motor won't start, stalls or runs shitty its because of electronics. Whether thats a VFD or whatever. Something that's probably in your wheel house.
Man, I know I am late to the party but I wish I was watching this live I had so many answers to his questions!
snap ring pliers, sprag clutch etc etc
Missed the stream but enjoyed the upload, as someone who dabbles a lot in tech, but also in auto repair and other mechanical stuff, this was fun to watch. This is the same way I stumble through learning a lot of stuff, just tear it apart and try to figure it out as you go.
I've a 48V 21ah battery pack to take apart and find out what went wrong..I used the pack twice only to have it short (Heard an electrical "click" then smelled something burning) when i go to charge it up a 3rd time. Upon further inspection, the charging port on the battery pack itself was shifted out of place by at least 3-5mm causing the charger to angle and cause the problem. It's a Eunorau brand battery pack :p.
I do enjoy your videos on ebike repair, you're no "master", but you are a great many levels of knowledge above me, learning each time from, you and these vids, I vote more e-bike vids! :D
I ride an M2S All Terrain R750, just under 900 miles on it since June this year.
Happy new year Louis!
Or...I could send you the battery to repair for a video if you would like to ponder the idea...No pressure whatsoever if you can't fix it or it breaks further, I'll pay you what you desire for the repair (and shipping both ways), if it is irreparable you may have it for spare parts or whatever you desire,and I (we) would learn a LOT :).
Subscriber here.
Following you for right to repair related videos and insights into laptop design by handling complaints.
Never thought id find you on an unrelated ebike repair
Listening to you reenact / replicate those noises brought a smile to my face.
the motor my have a weak lead winding causing the motor to stall for not knowing which way to rotate as lead winding/start winding does that. If you look at the winding of the motor next time you take one apart you will see a bundle of the winding a tad bigger gage then the rest of the windings. This usually happens to motors from over current from low voltages or trying to start motor with it stalled/output jammed. I hope you enjoy all the comments I have posted while watching you work on the motor.
I’ve never seen this…wtf?! I love that Louis works on Bafangs!!! Crazy cool.
May I suggest consulting a Snow Mexican mechanical savant named AVE.
Snow Mexican lmao
roflmao
Its nice to watch you fix something yourself instead of just buying new and throwing away good equipment. You are a credit to american values, sir.
Snap ring pliers! That is so frustrating to watch.
I can't watch! This is worse than fingernails on a chalkboard!
It also could be that RUclips simply doesn't show us your videos because I almost never see one of your videos on my feed. I have to go directly to your channel to see your videos. RUclips keeps showing me videos I don't give a flying leap about but leaves out my favorite RUclipsrs.
19:23 That motor type is actually exactly the same build as used in Tesla engines, very efficient and good shit but more meant for high rpm than low so its thus totally normal to see a gear reduction.
@Louis, OK I am at the 55min mark, so don't shoot me if someone has answered this already in the stream. The One-Way-Clutch has been used tons in the automotive industry primarily in automatic transmissions. While there are many different designs. The one that appears to be in your bikes gear housing is one that slips in one direction, but the other direction is locks by essentially wedging the pieces against the inner and outer part of the assembly. Outer being the metal race the nylon gear is attached to and inner being the small shaft that had the bits of WTF stuck to it. Now they can slip in the non-slippy direction and often do when they get wore down over time. Often you will see shiny flat spots start to wear out on them. But they can also fail to lock if something on the shaft has jammed up the housing. I have seen them in automatic transmissions jam up and flip or bust into pieces from this. But TLDR they work like a wedge, no tension in one direction, but is designed to jam up in the other. Which is how the clutch is designed to turn in one direction and not the other. Cheers.. Joe
I'm just watching this now. Here louis is looking for water damage or a crummy bearing. And I'm seeing one staring at me at various points throughout the the stream. 10:00 you have got a bearing that is pressed into the main bottom bracket shell. That one is most exposed tot he elements and most likely could be failed. Need a bearing puller to get it out. Bit of threaded rod, nuts and washers would do the trick.
I'm at the part of the video where you're looking for "snapring pliers" and I'm really enjoying your understanding of the internet and how to get answers 🤣😂😅
The white pellets are most likely not rocks, but additive powders to the grease. Trust me i used to manufacturer many different greases, and even tho it was smooth it had chunks like that in it
or most likely, they're just little bits of caulk that got picked up off the workbench.
@40:15 C-clip pliers. Those can switch action from internal to external types of C-clips. You should get yourself a pair.
LOUIS - I was hoping you would place the nylon gear on the shaft for an understanding how it is attached to the small metal gear on the other end. If that is a friction fit, it would explain the squeal noise.when the gear slips on the shaft. And when the gear and shart are both stopped, starting slowly it would friction start and work. All that grease likely those parts should stay clean,. Humidity would lessen the friction on the nylon gear shaft and cause the squeal noise and inability to start. Color me convinced.
The "clutch" side (your words) is a Sprag Clutch so your right. but think I noticed that the Pinion gear may be damaged if so the pinion could "climb" the bull gear which is on the "clutch" side, that is a common failure and will cause the gears to lock up or "stall" the motor. Again I see the damage on the pinion gear which is the small gear that drives the larger gears and is on the other side of the "clutch". "One way bearings" are usually called "SPRAG clutches". I thought saw spalling on the wormed gear shaft that runs against the plastic white gear. It's another "pinion" wormed pinions can't climb but will stall if foreign objects get in between. If you found rocks in there you need to find the hole and block dirt and rocks from entering. BTW watching you repair electronics I state "you can make crooked things straight". As far as the "yellow shit" In our trade when in doubt "giver some grease" the "black" grease is from dirt & wear it was probably all yellow when new.
Louis broke the internet! He now knows how to find the right information for what you need on the internet.
Get Louis to watch AvE and Louis will get the hang of it in no time.
"Yellow shit"...pffff.. It's shmoo ! 😝
It's already f*cked, ya ain't gonna f*ck it more... release the school!
“Keep your caulk in a vice!”
AvE fixing macbooks. Yep sounds good to me.
@@rdouthwaite Seein as ya cant catch herpes twice and thus bein fucked previous. It dont make no never mind.
Louis, I think most people are so depressed that they no longer have joy. That makes them tune out, nothing personal I think.
Stream what you want Louis, it's all educational and entertaining.
Electric bikes are becoming mainstream and soon cycles and cars.
We desert country folk love the bike rides through NYC, maybe VR in the future?
So heating up the casing and screws is well known trick for mechanics with rusty bults and screws they won’t come loose. What iv heard about it is when you heat up the metal it exspands and when cold it kinda shrinks. That’s at least my understanding. And idk how warm that gets when in use but maybe it’s shrieked or something
Lovely to see my favorite motor on display here, and finally there's something I'm better at than Lois. 😀
I have tuned all my BBSHD controllers, the last one awaits a new battery to go 92V and 50A.
Re-grease of the motor is almost mandatory, and Mobilith SHC100 or Mobil28 are good choices for this.
Btw you should use a power tool and hex bits for when working on a motor like this. Too many bolts to tighten.
Louis: let's rip off this caulk
Boston viewers: 😳
don't judge a man by the color of his caulk
@@Kalanchoe1 fr
As an Australian, I heard "my cock is the black cock, their cock is the white cock". 😮
@@tin2001 Same here as British. It's almost like Louis deliberately exploited the innuendo ... ;)
"There's a lot more black caulk than white caulk"
Hey Ross. The first big gear you see once you open the motor doesn't come with enough grease from the factory. You should get a shit load of moly grease in there yourself, run it for 5-10 minutes and then put some more. Also, you should put lithium dry grease on the nylon gear inside, just make sure it's the non corrosive kind. The motors should last you a lot longer, and they will have a tiny bit more performance .
To get that stuck screw out, try using a manual impact driver. You put one in a vice and wind it up, then put the bit on the screw and hit the back of the driver with a hammer. But the hot air rework station worked too! Use what you got...
I'd go for controller .. looks like out of phase. I assume this is a brushless DC motor. There is a sensor to communicate the speed of the motor to the controller and then the controller keeps working on which coil to energize. I'd clean the sensor(s) and check wiring to controller. If the hall effect sensor is not very well or not placed in the right position, you will have similiar issue.
When doing lock rings, I highly recommend safety glasses.
I'm more of a safety third kinda guy but those things are eyeball seeking monstrosities.
In my experience they just disappear. Jesus clips. Sproing. Jesus!
@@tactileslut yeah they vaporize quickly and manage to be always to be the ones you're missing in storage.
Not at all. Except you do have a lock ring pliers and open them too much. Keep a finger, open a little and roll off the shaft. Eye protection is a must in a workshop at any time.
I've been a safety glasses/face cover advocate ever since a sharp piece of wood smacked me in the forehead in a resistant materials class. An inch lower and it would have went through my eye
Man, Prudence was bleating hard when Louis was fumbling with those snap ring pliers!
I have found that IPA wicks under silicone and separates it cleanly from the surface to which it is applied. I have used that many times to leave a clean surface. It’s easy to use a scalpel to cut it where it surrounds cables.
Those pieces were in there from assembly IMHO. I don't see holes big enough for them to enter. Only holes are the ones on the rotating part, but it looks like some bolts holding something onto it go in there?
I really love the way how he figures it all out with the help of his fans ^^ Nice to see the internet can be helpful sometimes. *edit* hmmmm apparently not all the time :O people purposly giving bad advise :@
I really think you need to realize that Macbook repairs only really appeal to:
a) customers trying to find out if their product was featured
b) that small sector of humans out there that are interested in this
Meanwhile, when you're talking about NY and neighboring states, you're pretty much appealing to every single citizen that knows how to use YT.
So of course you'll be more successful when you talk about the city and its relevant issues, but your repair videos are also successful because you get a decent amount of that focused sector that likes seeing and hearing your thought process (like me).
When you compare these 2 vastly different populations of viewers, repair videos will definitely look like a massive loss, so I'd say try to keep them apart instead of comparing one against the other.
I'm really happy that you're making a 2nd major push for repairs with the start of your wiki, because that website will live on to show that you still actively want to make a push for right to repair, while teaching more people this art.
Hi,
Not sure you found the problem ...
From your failure it sounds to me like the motor is trying to start with only 2 of the 3 cables connected.
So check the connection between controller and motor.
If the 3rd makes contact for a sek, it will start and as soon as it has a spinn the 3rd is no longer needed.
For what its worth, I find your board repair videos very interesting!
i love the sound effects. baaaaaa --ddddiiiiingggg then it stalls!
You should write a Coffee Table Book about MacBooks Repair, like that the people that like MacBook repairs can buy the Book and have on their coffee table.
Their coffee table made out of a piece of glass and two aluminum G5 PowerMacs as bases.
@@kjamison5951 LOLs
We love it when you take things apart and fix them. Saves me breaking my own stuff :D
That "one way bearing" that spins the nylon gear is called a sprag clutch or sprag bearing. Applying torque one way causes the movable metal pieces to wedge against the axle, and torque in the other direction unwedges them, allowing them to simply slide on the axle.
Also, you probably shouldn't be getting grease on the portion of the axle that goes through the sprag clutch.
Guilty. I am busy with the kiddo, and so I like to listen even when I can't watch, the board repair videos are not interesting for that, but i like hearing your opinions on things and do like watching *and listening to your more opinionated videos lol
@27:00 use torch or hot air to heat up the screws and then cool it down to release. At the time of writing this I watched and saw you doing it....
Use impact wrench with tightly fit Philip's bit to undo the screws.
@20:00 replace those connectors with bullet type gold plated ones. You can buy different styles/sizes from China. I think the difficult start could be related to programming of your controller, which is normally built into Bafang motors, unless you're using external one. Get a different controller and/or check operation of each of three hall sensors. One sensor could be faulty and it will give you trouble with motor start. Use quality consistent grease when taking things apart and assembling back. Clean old grease with Brake clean spray or else similar.
It’s fun to see how you "fighting" with motor.... I am working with mechanical staff since I am 10 years old and it’s always fun. I really sad about kids now, whey stuck in they iPhones and Mac Books and miss a lot in real word. Oh yes, I do IT support, but knowledge how staff work in reality helps a lot.
Louis !
Do not put grease inside the white gear with the needle roller bearings. Needle roller bearings tend to have issues when packed with grease. Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) works extremely well here as it lubricates and has a LOT of "detergents" in it.
If that needle roller bearing is actually a "one-way" bearing, DEFINITELY do not put grease in it or it won't unlock properly.
I use a syringe with a leur-lok dispensing needle to oil these with ATF.
Around the 2h mark you're messing with a "thrust washer bearing". Pack that sucker with good thick grease and don't knock out or lose any of the balls in that cage. If a thrust washer set feels rough when pressing hard on it or if you can see "dents" from the balls in the washers, it needs to be replaced.
I have a bbshd here in NC, where it's not so cold. Maybe cold affects that nylon gear which breaks sometimes anyway. Lunacycle used to sell that gear. Got about 1000 miles on mine.
You're having what's called phase lock, it is a phenomenon when you are in between a high and low magnetically on your stator phase, AKA in between phases. That's why it sounds like it's single phasing, basically pushing and pulling at the same time. It's like trying to find neutral on a Ducati motorcycle where you just have to rock the bike back and forth until it clicks in, realigning the phases. It starts happening on older Staters, too much power also causes this phenomenon the electricity will also burn tiny little holes in your bearings which is another phenomenon, if you pedal to a stop this problem more than likely will go away naturally aligning your phases magnetically.
Did you check the resistance on the stator windings? Also massage the windings as you check the resistance
The Caulk double entendre is strong in this one....
The black caulk is unsanitary ruclips.net/video/jDzEb28mjcI/видео.html
There is a disturbing amount of plastic in this motor build :/ Thanks for letting me peer inside the guts of a motor like this Louis.
This sounds like a hall sensor has failed and the controller is trying to run the motor in openloop but this type of motor has a very weak flyback at low speeds so the controller cannot find the current location of the rotor fails
It actually passes the hall sensor test both before and after repair
@@rossmanngroup i have had intermittent faults with them in cold weather.. test while hitting them with the cold spray aka canned air flipped. I had this on 2 bbshd's setups i built i have done over a hundred in the last 4 months so they are good little setups
U prolly need a rolling start. I feel the motor isnt optimized for a bicycle so i bet u wouldnt have the wierd sound if u lift the rear wheel, i betcha it wont make that sound. Any motors most wear and tear happens when going from 0 to ~5 mph. Also a cold motor going max rpm will ruin components too. U can lay down the throttle until everything warmed up
I always pedal my bike, I know it could start from standstill on the motor, but I prefer to do it myself as it's smoother.
Thanks for doing this teardown. I was wondering what was inside them, very simple I am happy to see. In my biking days, if you wanted to get a true seal on a gasket, there were two rules. Always use a new gasket, and apply some gasket goo :-)
Ah! Lois!.... ok... a good/general rule of thumb with bearings, if you can see the ball bearings, the bearing itself is typically done and needs replacement... the bearing on the long shaft shows the ball bearings which tends to indicate its shot and needs replacement... bearings can cause the issues your experiencing additionally sometimes temporary seizures and permanent seizures...Google bearing issues which the first result will outline this...
You were right to skip the black grease on the sprag clutch. Most manufacturers of sprag clutches forbid the use of lubricants with EP additives (such as molybdenum disulfide).
Would love to see you tinkering with other kinds of electrics and electronics like this. Very nice.
The problem you describe sounds like a speed controller issue not a mechanical issue. I do not have enuf information from your video to determine the exact issue, so I'll just keep watching to see your results. good luck.
I think your problem is your wire connectors. I can see black on the connector on yellow wire. If that motor works like my brushless rc motor. If I disconnect one of my wires. The motor will turn a little then lock up and make a humming noise. If that connector on yellow wire has more resistant then the other 2 connectors. Might be doing the same thing. That's probably why your hear the noise your talking about. One of the 3 phases isn't getting enough current to keep the motor moving. Buy some high quality rc motor bullet connectors.
Too much grease will add weight/resistance to the rotor and perform in a lesser way than intended.
Nylon wheels don't really need grease, even the less to use so much. (on the interior there's a ball bearing, and that needs some, but not too much, neither too low)
A nylon wheel is meant to have some spring effect when transmiting power, it will not affect metal parts, it will ressist better to knocking, vibration, etc... while it will hopely break itself when there's something so bad that potentialy could damage something really important/expensive.
Also in a closed airtighth system you don't need too much grease, just a very low ammount to avoid friction wear between moving parts, if you put too much it will act as a glue adding weight and stickiness to wheels/teeth/parts, and that's something you don't want. You always want the lowest grease ammount on anything. Thinner layer, lesser ressistance, same lubrication level. (you may learn a lot if start to read grease and oils viscosity grades)
On exterior, or exposed parts, you need lots of grease, not for lubrication, but for water resistance, corrossion preventing and to get dust, rock pellets and nasty stuff to GET STICKY on it instead of going into important places.
Does it need frequent oiling? The sound makes me think it's a bearing
I’m guessing that a regular overhaul might help. The unit looks as though it’s sealed. However, tiny fragments of metal will get into the greases and slowly destroy bearings or gear teeth. A reconditioning of the mechanical components is probably recommended.
“Guaranteed for 20 years or 20,000 miles, whichever is sooner.”
I hope you put the white gear on the right way with the one way bearing. That is there so the motor does not have to be continuously powered and turning for the output (tire of bike) to be able to turn. That bearing allows for coasting. If you put the gear in backwards the motor will run and the output of the gearbox will not spin. If you run into this and after a lot of colorful words you will have to take it back apart and flip the gear over. Also you may have put way too much grease on the inside of the one way bearing as if too much the rollers in the inside will stick to the inside of the bearing housing and not come out and grip the primary shaft to turn it.