LET'S PULL THE OIL PAN OFF THE VETTE! DAMAGE?? WILL CHIEF AND JACKIE MAKE IT TO CASH DAYS?!
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
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I'm loving the Tuesday night schooling it's definitely cheaper than college and having BIG CHEIF as a instructor you can't ask for anything better. Thank you CHEIF AND JACKIE for all you do and as always be safe 👍
Man Chief. I must say I really enjoy watching you on RUclips way more than on TV. THIS is real and that’s what everyone wants to see. Thanks for the videos. Y’all are killin it !!
OMG, that is a ton of thrust! Those are generally turbo car problems. That really sucks! Pilot on the converter is bottoming out in the crankshaft it looked like! The way the flexplate and converter pad got gap as you loosened the bolt. Kill the thrust every time I've seen it happen. Also had the converter hit the flexplate bolts once kill the thrust. Modify the thrust to get more oil, I have a few vids on bearing and thrust on my channel but I'm sure you will figure it out.
I agree. Also I hope that th400 has the converter feed restrictor in the pump or it will push it into the trust too.
Probably a dia mismatch? The dia of the Converter nose snout is too big and not seated inside crank locator position hole .. had that issue during prefit once. So I sanded the snout nose on the converter so it fit nicely inside the rear of the crank locator position hole .
People like Chief are really a dying breed. Most racers have a gang of mechanics doing all their work and setting their stuff up. That, or they know a lot about ONE setup and they’ll argue it’s the only way until they’re blue in the face. But y’all know about most every combination, can get a car going down the road straight and hooked up, and are d@mn good drivers.
Great content as always. Really enjoyable to listen to the knowledge and years of experience.
Fascinating. Chief is so good at explaining all of the details and making it interesting to watch. How in the heck did he learn so much. He’s a brain surgeon for motors. We knew he was fast but now he is showing how he relates to everyday motors.
Love the fact about you saying hp isn't everything & that a good working car will win. I'm an old street racer from the early 80's & won a ton of races with less hp & money but had a good working 69 camaro ss that looked like crap but hurt a lot of feelings being beaten by it. Love y'alls content & how hard y'all work to put these out to help us! Many thanks!
That was great!!!
I don’t know about anyone else but im not a motor head guy and I understood everything you were talking about!!’
Thanks Chief really free training we can’t beat that!!
Thanks Jackie❤️
Th400 builds allot of pump pressure that causes the torque converter to push hard on the crankshaft causing the thrust on the crankshaft to fail you can restrict the pump to the torque converter in the transmission to fix this problem not for sure what you are running for a transmission. But what I have learned is too much transmission pump pressure to the torque converter usually causes that problem
I really love watching you guys diagnose problems. I feel like I learn something every video. Thanks Chief and Jackie! I hope you make cash days so we can see you race!
Love the red vette content and learning how to set up a chassis properly
Killin’ it!!!
Man so are you bill if it was not for you chief and Billy and tommy I would not have started building my truck I watch all of your video’s thank you sir for your carb classes and how to stuff
Funny guy u are.
@@Raysandfamily it’s pretty incredible how much Chief and I think alike. At least I think so anyway. I watch his stuff and it’s been great to see him reinvent himself on RUclips.
As a man of 48 years old , n/a vs. N2O parameters, and O2 and Fuel tuning is what I've always been told and have done it myself. Engines are still engines and they all need fuel ,air and fire !! How you introduce those essentials is up to " US " , right ??
Uncle Bucko would be fussin' about lack of maintenance..
I run a 400 block in my latest toy. The clearancing may be due to longer rods, some people run 6 inch. Just for grins check the casting number on the block, if it a 509 it is a good piece even with 2 bolt main. I can share more info if desired. Going to be difficult to measure converter thrust with crank movement. Singing to the choir.
Looks like a 512 block. I thought that’s what I saw
817 cast 400s also are good. Just get em sonic checked and they can handle some serious power. I bet that trans doesn't have a converter feed restrictor
Love the explanations and especially love the “hatless” Justin! AND ESPECIALLY ESPECIALLY THE FLIP REFERENCES! I feel like you sent that one out to me up here in THE GREAT PACIFIC NORTHWEST BECAUSE WE LOVE YOU JUSTIN AND JACKIE!
Thanks for letting us see the motor diagnosis thru your eyes. Very interesting.
surprised there's another video already the consistency is awesome and now I'm invested and wanting to know what's going on with the thrust bearing in the vette 🤣 you guys do a good job of leaving us wanting more that's the key to bringing people back even though you have a lot of loyal subscribers that would watch no matter what your videos about
I worked at a machine shop in high school tearing engines apart. Any SBC crank that had a worn thrust surface got thrown in the scrap pile. For the cost of a brand new cast SCAT 9000, it wasn't worth fixing them apparently.
That's what I put in my 817 cast 406. Scat cast steel 9000 and forged 6" scat rods.
3 things:
-1. don't overlook high line pressure in a modified trans pushing the converter into the crank.
-2. a poorly machined (rough) finish on the crank will eat up the bearing. (both sides)
-3. the snout of the converter could be bottoming out on the crank before the mounting surface touches the flex plate.
ok one more, back in the early 60's it wasn't uncommon to put a 421 pontiac into a 'vette. hint hint. it's been a while since you tuned a N2O pontiac with some pissed off combustion chambers. PTTFMF's!
.125 end play is right to spec .lol. keep bringing the content and keep up the good work!
509 casting is a 400. My guess would be its a 421. 4 inch stroke. 511castings were early 400s and could be 2 or 4 bolt mains. Usually 3 freeze plugs in the side of the blocks. The middle freeze plugs disappeared but they still had a circle in the casting. Bowtie blocks had the same look with a bow tie emblem in the side. If I remember correctly 186 was the casting number. Respectfully, Jeff
4" stroke =434. 3.875 =421.....184 for the bowtie block
Ahh you're correct. My bad been a few years since I messed with those. Was thinking 60 over was 434.
@@jeffdyer8541 0.060 on a 421 stroker is 427 big bore
Mines a 817 2 bolt 400 and I'll spray the shit out of it. Nothing wrong with those old blocks.
@@DiscoGreen yes you are correct. I prefer the 4 bolt blocks. Caps can't walk around as much. People talk they are weaker I say B S. The same argument with pontiac blocks. To me 4 bolts is always better. I do believe in studs vs bolts. I used to tune a pro mod in the 90s with a bowtie block. Never had billet caps regular old gm iron 4 bolt caps and not even studs. 2 systems over 1900 hp and Never broke anything. It went 6.74 at 208 and 1.0 in 60 feet. Not to say you couldn't see the transfer from caps to block from the beating it took.
Just wanted to say thanks man,who knew you'd go from street outlaws to this,and to be honest, this is a great improvement, you're not just some driver on TV...
Had set of them pistons same part numbers ext and I had them in a small block chevy 420 and had at zero deck 12:98:1 and at .010 deck 12:62:1 compression ratio just lil info if ya wanted too kno man . Good luck with everything positive vibes yalls way 🤙
Holy shit ! I’ve never seen one with that much movement. Surprised the starter still engaged..lol
Chief, I love these videos dude. I love the videos where you are breaking everything down and explaining and showing everything to us with such awesome detail. I look forward to every single one of these videos you put out. Thank you for doing these videos and I hope you continue when you start working on caddy Jack. I think it's great that you're showing people that you can go faster with less as long as you have your car set up correctly. It's amazing how meticulous you are you pay attention to every part of the car you leave nothing unchecked. You pay attention to the smallest details of a race car and engine that's why you've been on top for so long and you will continue to be the best out there. You're kind of like the Bill Belichick of Street Racing. Thanks Chief keep them coming
Wow that's a lot of well in the crank bro,hope you get it solved to run the old girl,my uncle who passed a few years back had a 81 with a smallblock 454 man that Vette got up and went
My eyebrows hit my hairline when you put that pry bar on the crank!
Awesome video as always, keep up the great work! 🏁
Yup, eyebrows shot way up!
Even though it’s Chief’s car, I liked to have shit when the steel (not bronze) pry bar moved the crank!!! 😳😳😳
@@lanecazes come on…a steel pry bar won’t hurt it being used like that. Our comments are in reference to the massive amount of movement that crank has. Who remembers DSMs and 4G63 crank walk issues? That was nothing compared to this!!
@@Rebel635csi
46 yrs ago, I was working in a industrial machine shop as a rookie and was taught to never use steel on steel on machined surfaces. Like I said, it’s Chief’s car.
@@lanecazes And youre also taught to drive holding the steering wheel at 10 and 2....cuz rookies need to be told to not do dumb things...but after a while you learn that the world is not black and white and that sometimes you can paint outside the lines and it'll be fine.
Every video you do on the vette, the more I like it! Thanks for always posting and letting us see the cars.
I bet the snout of the converter is bottoming out in the crank and that’s why the converter bolts are pulling the flex plate to the ears on the converter.
Results in thrust bearing damage too. The nose "dia" must match the crank receiver location hole "dia".
Gooday Chief I race in super street drag racing, running a 400 small block Chev with a automatic transmission when I notice spacers missing between the torque converter and the flexplate that will cause excessive movement on the thrust bearing. Every time you launch the car, the torque converter moving back in the transmission it is slamming the crank flange in to bearing thrust surface with 1.5 g force on more every time you brake after run the crank goes forward with the weight of the torque converter pushing on the thrust bearing .
Chevrolet: 400 Small Block - 17/18 Degree - Flat Top: 1.063 C/H - 4.155 Bore - 3.875 Stroke - -6.00CC - #99473
Definitely love how Chief explains everything in this video. I'm learning a lot from these video's
Keep the making the best of what you have videos coming! It's fun to watch a car progress in stages. Learn a lot from these tech videos. Keep up the good work!
loved the video bro especially how you showed what clearance the converter needs to be at lot of young ones dont have dads or just someone to help them out the simple way u showed how it needs to be
Favorite couple award goes too chief and Jackie 🥇 🏆
I was reading the works at the end and I said to my self, well bye, lol. Then it popped up. Really like how you’re doinga real world build with this corvette, really relatable. Like how billy started out with a blow through carb. Well bye, lol. 🤘
Converter built for a mid plate I’m guessing but that won’t cause the issue with the thrust bearing
im wondering if that dip stick was wedged in between the counterweights and main cap at one point
Bill big fans of you and your family and hope to meet you guys someday. I follow all your channels. Just out of curiosity what is your take on why that happened?
nope , the nose on the converter is too big or has globs of panit on it. the crank receiver location hole for the converter must slide inside no resistance. then the converter should lay easily against the plate.
You check the dia of your crank converter location hole to match the dia of the converter nose. This one was a mismatch and took out the thrust bearing
That there looks like a built to the max motors… huh huh ??
Believe it or not. I've had many places tell me I'm wrong on that. Call Alards machine shop in Ennis and ask him if I was wrong. I saved him after he replaced the crank twice. He was on the third one. What makes me believe it is the front of the converter moved is the lugs not touching. If the lug had space because it was for a mid plate the converter would wipe out the pump or keep the transmission from touching the engine. I could definitely be wrong it's just something I've seen a lot of over the years. More in the stock torque converter world
Hope the crank can be salvaged and the issues get sorted for your race. It's so frustrating when you are out before you start. Upside is you found it before you fired something through the side of the block. Respect guys, keep them coming!
Y’all are def getting it worked out … can’t wait to see more … and see content from the races in the future and more car time as well … along with a small break good ole joke time … haha but keep up the hard work guys …
thank you!!
Enjoying this type of videos. Working on the engine is what people like to watch.
Chief, I could go on and on about your work ethics but, dayummm dude, your the best. Perfect diagnostics for the belt not staying on the alternator pulley. I remember you saying the previous owner ran that car in the sixes (?), but IDK how this motor stayed together this long. Oh, Ray Charles could have seen the movement in that crank. Another quality video brought to you from “The Professor and Jackie”. Nice editing job Jackie! You, The Old Man’s Garage & SRC Channels are the best on RUclips. Chief, did you watch Billy’s (SRC) Nova make its first run, like Billy said, more of test hit than a race. Man that nova sound’s just like Shawn a Ellington’s. Shout out to his brother Tommy Two Guns for the win!!
The car may have gone 6's at some point. The question is,Was it with this engine?? And what else was pushing it to do so?? That could be the trigger to why there's so much wear in this bottom end. Its clearly obvious with these nice pistons and the block being clearanced the way it has been. That it was done by someone that new what they where doing. I could tell if it was a good job done by hand (Yes incert Hand Job Joke here) or if someone mounted into a mill and cut it that way. Perhaps will see more when the crank is removed. Stay tuned for sure.
@@Pyle81
I totally agree 100%!!!
Love this show along with OLD MANS GARAGE and SRC these three shows are best in the business (Of course c-boys and 1320 are up there)
Absolutely love these vet videos. Your killing it guys!!
I would check the converter hub length as well as the flywheel bolt clearance. I’ve seen converters that hit flywheel bolts before the pads hit. It gets close if someone used a grade 8 bolt and a lock washer. Converter hun could also be bottoms out in the crank or often time a motor gets swapped and a pilot bearing for a manual transmission is left in the crank.
On this episode of as the “How much thrust does that engine have?” We learn that Chiefs midlife crisis Vette engine has enough thrust to launch it into low earth orbit and possible beyond. Come back next week when to see can the crank be saved,
That’s a cool name for the Vette - Midlife Crisis
I like how you show more in depth of what people can do if they are working on a small amount of money
A bad torque converter can wipe out the thrust on the crank. I should say a balloning torque converter will do that
Man the last time I saw that much space between a ring gear and converter, on a small block chevy. Was when I found the damn ring gear cracked and separated all the way around it. 🙄🙄
the last owner had a sweet b&m torkmaster 3000 to go with the moroso valve covers.
it didn't have an anti ballooning plate though!
I keep going back to the rear end ladder bar that is slightly bent, And was repaired. Especially on a vette thats so low to the ground to begin with. Did it take a trip over something to bend or rip/break that arm off the right side of the rear-end?? Was the transmission but in a bind causing uneven wear that transfered (over time) to the converter and flex plate?? Thus banging the hell out of the back of the crank and into the thrust bearing??? Think about it this way 5000-6000 rpms and torque out the ass to the right side can eat away a lot of material pretty fast. This also shows you how tuff these engines are and they'll still run well with a significant amount of damage. I look forward to the final diagnosis of this engine, just to see if my theory could be the cause. Or a symptom.
@@Pyle81 I think this theory holds water.. especially in a vette. The impact knocked the drivetrain alignment out a few degrees or so. Ooorrr…. The car is “arching” upon launch shoving the TC into the flex plate and crank. Wonder if it has a cracked bell housing? May also explain why it turns right when you let off the button. Either way man, I think you nailed it.
Another great video guys! I learned about thrust and end play later in life. We threw a bunch of belts and messed stuff up when we were learning.
The clearance looks like it probably has a 4" stroke crank in it. So probably 4" stroke x 4.155" bore (.030 over 400) = 434 When you pull the crank you can easily measure the stoke and bore. I have built a few 4" stroke 400's and the clearance looks familiar to me. Also on the torque converter, I agree something odd is going on there!
Yep… my 434 has the notches in the pan rail. I can’t believe this was a 2 bolt block with a cast crank!
I seen a valve cover hold down from China to go with that cheap dipstick. Looks like someone put the balancer on with a hammer again! Don't worry that thrust is right in spec! Also I just did a 400sbc with a 3.875 that had a bore of 4.185. Came out to a 426 which is alot for a stock block.
Hey Chief, I love these types of video that you've been putting out lately, you've been killing it. You have plenty of space for the torque converter but is that with the crank back or is it with the crank pushed forward? That still could be the problem if it's with the crank forward as the thrust bearing is gone out on vacation. lol Thanks for sharing this as I've never seen a thrust bearing that far gone. Interesting - Thank and later
Ross Pistons Arp rod bolts. Wonder why it ate the thrust. Converter not space correctly.
In advance, thank you chief and Jackie for the outstanding content ! Love yalls channel.The vette saga is cool. Absolutely love the mentality of don’t need a million $ car to go fast utilize what you got! Appreciate the theme
thanks chad!!
holy moly mama! No dial indicater needed here - - cool ya's found it, bummer it needs fixin' - - really cool giving us the tour of the problem.
That thrust bearing is a half eaten “sandwich” haha….man that’s crazy! Love the tech videos Chief, keep em coming 🤘🏽
THATS SILLY WATCH THE VIDEO
As someone else has pointed out it could be a converter for a mid plate setup, hence the pulling the flex plate. Could also be a ballooned converter, which would also explain the thrust wear.
Do you think the converter not being shimmed correctly could have caused that issue? Awesome video by the way. Great job Jackie!
Wonder if the converter is not going into the pilot hole all the way? Cleetus McFarland had to machine the converter down to fit in the pilot hole on mullet with the big block.
Absolutely it could be. The converter snout needs to slide freely in and out of the crankshaft flange before you space it though. I’ve seen it a million times where just paint on the snout will keep that form happening but, like Cheif said, these are just normal racing things and shit happens every day so….
Keep up the good work guys, love the content as always!
Crazy this block and crank looks just like my old school 383 stroker that came with my 85 vette ,I have a 350 over block with 400 crank ,is really nice to actually see you working on this c3 .
In this episode detective chief goes deep into the unknown and finds things not as they should be, stay tuned for the next episode to see if he’s got what it takes to get this 400 back to rippin up the streets!
He’s a regular Jacques Cousteau 😂
I was so happy to see it was a real old school 2 bolt 400. So many guys hate on those old blocks but we old timers know those things can take it. Just sonic check them and go to town.
I’d be checking converter pilot to crank clearance. If the pilot is too tight, might explain why it’s pulling the tabs to flex plate, ergo, putting stress on thrust bearing. Always interesting buying a mystery machine
Does the trans have a feed restrictor to keep the high pressure from pushing on the thrust?
I should have waited to the end to comment. The torque converter is balloning that's why the center is touching before the mounting serface
I stopped an interesting video just to see how this very intriguing problem gets figured out.
🙌🏼
I stopped playing with myself when I got the notification. So im more dedicated than you with my blue balls over here 💙
@@DM-qp7do lol
Hey guys, keep it up! This is great for the tiny budget guy. Sometimes it's easy to get lost in all top gear that makes you go super fast.
This looks like a lot of fun and very informative. You don't get this on that other show!!!😁 Thankyou guys, love your work... PEACE!!!!✌
I love seeing a fast car with gen 1 power under the hood. It would have easy to drop a LS in and make good HP...but to making something competitive with a SBC is way cooler. I remember reading the mags and thinking omg another SBC build... enough already! but now it's like hey cool a SBC build! The Steve Morris video I watched a week or so ago was on a 1800+HP Procharged SBC! And not only did it make 1800hp but it seemed to do it without breaking a sweat when he pushed the button it was like a quick whaaaa wooosh wahhbah and over in just a few seconds.... Super cool.
That's why I built mine. To keep my vette Era and to prove to these guys a good old 400 2 bolt can take 500 plus easy
Chief, the pilot of the converter is bottomed out in the crank, that’s basically pushing the converter through the crank thrust. That’s your space when you pulled the converter bolt out.
I've saw engines where the main caps scrape against the counter weights on the crank and of course the rods and mains are toast!
Nothing a little Spray weld lathe and crank grinding can't fix. Your lucky you have a good crank shop local! I'm thinking that it's got a 6 1/4 rod in it but who knows for sure. My old man built a few different 400's and all the 509 or 511 blocks he had to clearance the block for the rod caps even with the factory cast crank I'll have to ask him what size rod it had for sure but I think I remember him saying it had a 6 and 1/4.
I don’t know what’s faster. Midwest cars or their shipping. Haha. Ordered a July 4th shirt and minutes later it was shipped. Love to support y’all. Be street!
had the same issue with a 70 400 engine that I used all the stock bottom end (Crank and rods). it made about 425 crank, and was shifted at around 7K. This engine was driven to and from the race spot. I will say I used this motor a little over a year before I noticed the issue, it was a very budget motor that got the job done.
Jackie is doing awesome on making these videos! Chief your doing what ya love and have her bringing us the content. Great job look forward to the next one!
Had a factory cast crank worn just like that, I switched converters and bought a crank like yours.
Hey Really liking not only your hits and passes...but, very cool to watch you diagnosing engine and chassis issues as well Chief 👍👍👍👍🏁🏁🏁🏁....I work nights and like to watch while on my Lunch break....Keep em coming y'all
This makes it very clear why ur stuff runs like it runs on/off street...hats off 🤝 thanks for another detail video!
Your video's is the best Chief and Jackie! love you two, all the way from SOUTH AFRICA
Great video and explanation Big Chief! Loving the content.
Hey Chief if you took number 1 plug out and put it on TDC put a long straight rod in and mark it then rotate crank to Bottom then put rod back in and mark measure the distance between Mark's, would this help on stroke before you tear apart once you pull a head measure Bore , rod length ... hopefully you can save it with a quick rebuild . If you need more under hood clearance try an L88 style hood old school with low profile 2 4's with roller cam keep it under the hood. Tunnel Ram style , I'm glad someone is taking time to show what can happen with an older race car everyone wants to throw Turbos on an LS Engine.
wit high pressure in the converter they are adding a thrust plate and buttons on the cover that rub on the plate
at launch and shifts Larry r in tulsa had that problem
Love the fact y'all are doing what you want to do and what your passionate about instead of being tied down by contracts or whatever keep up the good content y'all
H beams fit a 400 with stock stroke no issue. I'm sure she has a stroker crank! Agree with others on converter pushing forward. great vid!
Thank you for making these videos they are great to watch and I look forward to watching you two save that engine…Congratulations for spotting that problem 🤘
Chief is the OG best I complete respect that he sticks with Pontiac!!
Welcome to midwest Street automotive University everything you need to know about Building your race car,. The one thing that come from that show you Used to do, was that it’s introduced us all to big chief..
Field of dreams you build it they will come. Great film even better in reality. Loving the videos👍
It's amazing that it's still running that good and has oil pressure with that much thrust lol looks like way more than .100..
Aftermarket Cast stroker cranks are only 3.75" stroke, an offset grind will give you an extra .100" with small journal chev bearing size. Scat 9000 series is the best out of the cast cranks. Time for a 4340 steel crank.
Great video I love to see this lower budget side of street racing vs The high dollar all out unlimited NPK style. Justin love how you’re doing these videos. Keep up the work. You seem so much happier now. Good for you bro. 👊🏼
Dude!!! You have no idea how much of a relief you just provided me! About 20 years ago I had a '68 Chevelle that I built a small block for. I actually delayed the engine swap for a while bc I wanted to get the problem it had with slinging belts straightened out while the POS 307 was still in it, but I couldn't fix it so I went ahead and put my 355 in it and it never threw the belts again. I never even thought about it being a thrust issue, then again, when I was 15 years old, I might not have known a thrust bearing existed!
Your car: It looks like the pilot is too long on your converter to me. I'll bet if they'd have machined the pilot a little and/or used a small spacer between the plate and converter (provided you had the pump clearance, it would have been ok.
I don't like rubber motor mounts with a transbrake either. I don't know if it causes an issue it just doesn't seem right. Me volví interesting to know if the previous owner ever ran the car with mufflers. If so, it would be a little suspicious that it's now uncapped. You know, like maybe two drowned out a crank thrust noise in order to sell the car.. assuming of course that it was bad enough to have a noise?
Great video chief, u explained everything so well ilove yalls videos..
So I have a 400sbc scat assembly, 6" eagle H beam rods. The engine builder had to grind off notches on the block for clearance. Domed Ross racing pistons
Truly appreciate the teachable moments you (and Ms. Jackie) are providing good sir. Provides opportunities for the novice and/or those more experience to learn. 👌
100% 412 is just the forging number. We used ROSS and ARIAS forging blanks years ago at the piston shop I work at.
It looks like the conv may have ballooned out causing the snout to bottom out in the crank. Thus explains the flex plate and possibly the thrust bearing issues.
There is just something about having a simple little setup and just go out and have fun with it.
the thrust on the crank wears out over many miles with standard shift trans. just need to have it welded up and new thrust bearing.
looks like the snout of the converter is bottoming out in the pilot of the crank before the pads touch the flex plate. It also looks like the the pad on the converter is starting to Crack, unless it's just the lighting.
Great content Chief
The Engine would have self distracted SOON
NO NO Thanx for you installing the crank trigger
Awesome 👌 Catch
Have a Great Day 👍HI Jackie 👋
Really like the way you and Jackie are doing these videos
That gap is with the thrust pushed all the way forward so doesn’t look like you had enough spacing to start off with before you whipped out the thrust bearing
Often times the flex plate bolts will hit the converter in and around the pilot bearing area. Had that happen before and had to switch to a low profile bolt head on the crank so the converter didn't hit them .
Glad you made this video I have the same issue with the same amount of play in my 318 dodge.
Loving the fact that you are showing how to do things without spending a fortune. I don’t think I’ve ever seen that much endplay. Lol
Best content on the RUclips for learning and laughing.