Nice job guys! That's a proper way to install a window and I've been installing new construction and replacement windows for over 40 years! Nice tight seal!
The corner tape should go in first, then the tape covering the sill on top if it. I understand that there is still tape going over that, but it's best practice to cover all your tape edges unless they are adhering to the wall or framing
I don't agree and if you look at other manufacturer's instructions, sill is taped, then corner pieces from there. It doesn't actually matter since its all stuck together and rolled.
Maybe stretch on bottom all the way, better integrity...But I see your point...if a penetration, it would have to get around top seal, then the stretch (very unlikely)
Liquid flash on sill and up t inches on flange-simple easy monolithic I’m critical area to be flashed. When you compare prosocco liquid flash at proper thickness to zip tape, esp full stretch , in sill and up 4-6 inches. No that much more expensive and less than an hour to set ; no worries Re rolling tape vigorously and fully, no ripples fish mouths in tape etc.and do repeat, OF water gets in, and it will. How does it exit this Sherman? You’ve sealed off bottom flange and all four interior sides
How is the sill sealed to the framing? You’re not taping the bottom nailfin. Are you caulking the back of the bottom nailfin when you do the others? Thanks for the info!
Best practice is to not tape the bottom nailfin because if a little water (or condensation) somehow gets past the sides or top, it needs a way out. I'm not sure what the best practice is on whether to caulk the bottom nailfin. Logic would suggest you leave that out too for the same reason.
You have to air seal the window on the inside. I tape the window jambs onto the framing with Siga Rissan tape. I use mineral wool insulation between the window and RO
We bought a house and didn't realize that it wasn't wrapped or flashed until the floor near a window seemed wet. Is there a way to remedy this without removing tearing vinyl siding?
Hi Michelle, I'm sorry to hear about that. To properly repair the siding should be removed. Besides the leak, damaged sheathing or framing may need to b addressed as well. I had to do this to my house. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Great question Caleb. I wouldn't personally use a non acrylic tape. Here is the method recommended ruclips.net/video/m_mZFT3R6Hs/видео.html I would highly recommend using the Stretch Tape. You can buy it on Amazon.
does anyone know if the bottom of the window should also be flashed? I just had some windows put on and the framers put zip tape on all 4 sides on the outside flanges
I have a video of me cutting the zip tape along the bottom flange of a window that did not leak from the outside and water is pouring out of it. It’s an entire winter of vapor making its way in around the window from the interior of the house and condensing on the back side of the flange and dripping into the sill pan. It’s important to leave the bottom flange un nailed and air seal the window from the inside so no air can get around the window. I’ll also note that spray foam was used to insulate the windows so spray foam is not an air seal.
Excellent question Dan 👍 That's a throwback to my training way back. All our windows had a sticker that said "don't nail through top flange". I can't find anything current that shows this. I was told it was because the sawn headers, usually 6x, could shrink and pull the window. I doubt that is actually an issue now since we use LVL headers.
@@AwesomeFramers I worked in Gig Harbor 6,7 years ago and the guy's I worked for didn't screw or nail either. They gave me some BS answer that made no sense! I'll go with your answer, thanks!
Thanks for sharing such a simple and effective way. I watched some other videos and they tape the entire opening then caulk and install window then retake with sill open. 🤷🏻♂️🤦♂️ such a waste of money for the same air and water tight results.
I like that awesome is looking creatively at balancing costs time quality and endurance. I think many windows we see on utube are over flashed- of course if you are spending 1,000mplus on some houses/sites (you know who I’m talking about) spending $60 on materials let insuppose makes sense .
I'm trying to learn how to do this so I have a couple questions if you don't mind answering them. You first put the flashing tape on the sill and up the sides, then you followed with flex tape on those bottom corners. Why not put the flex tape in those corners then put the tape over that on the sill/sides? Seems like that would be the better way to shed water if it got in and ran down the sides. My second question is why not tape all the way up the sides and the top of the opening? Wouldn't that be a good idea to prevent any air that gets behind the window from making its way into the house? I know that some people don't put sealant on the bottom flange of the window so that any water that gets in can escape (not sure if you did that here or not) but if you did and the window has a great seal to the sheathing then I guess I can see why you wouldn't need to run tape all the way up the sides and across the top.
Hey Josh, great questions. The reason I used the Stretch Tape in the bottom corners over the sill tape is because back in the day that is how the premade corners installed. I did ask around and it seems like this is a 50% prefer 1 way and the other 50% the other. I think its important to understand that these are "self-terminating" flashings and bond so well that it doesn't ultimately matter. As to taping the sheathing to the jam all the way around for air sealing, we've blower door tested hundreds of windows installed this way (when the house is finished) and they are air tight. What I didn't show in this video is the other part of the process, sealing from the backside. That is the builders job and not the framers, so I just showed this portion in this video. Never seal the bottom flange to the sill, we seal the backside of the window on the inside of the house to the sill there. This allows water to drain.
@@generalshrooms That's what I thought, but he said something about always passing energy pressure tests. Perhaps they backer rod and caulked the interior to seal.
The sill gets taped as a sill pan, then window set on it, after install the legs and head of the window get taped to the wall. This allows any moisture to be able to drain. Well that's the conventional wisdom.
Wow! Am I over flashing zip wall systems? this is exactrly how I flash regular typar homes, but on zip systems I was taught to flash the entire opening. Top, sides, and bottom, and bring the tape from the outside all the way flush to the inside. Tons of zip tape(which isn't cheap).
I guess the argument is, they caulked under the fin and taped over the fin. The flashing inside the frame wouldn't prevent water intrusion from getting in. That said, I flash the framing as well. I don't want water inside the wall cavity. I'd rather have it weep on the drywall side in a worst case scenario.
Thank you! What screws did you use for installing the window? Also, I saw you measure the diagonals from corner to corner, how could you change that if it were off?
Hey Vinny great questions. I buy 2" wood screws because the head has a low profile. GRK makes a great cabinet screw that works very well too. As far as adjusting the window, a prybar on the inside of house between the window unit and framing will move the window. Keep in mind that if you are 1/4" (we never are) out of square you only need to move 1/2 that, or 1/8". Typically we are at most 1/8" out of square so just a small adjustment is required.
I always wondered why not tape the bottom of the window. You calk all around. If the window is sealed ,air tite then where would potential water come from.?
good question. The thinking is that not sealing the window to the sill on the outside can allow water to drain, so we only tape the legs and head of the window after setting the window on a flashed sill. Personally I've seen windows leak (my house had no flashing) and the water goes nowhere but just sits on the sill.
So a couple bought my grandparents home and they want to seal the windows. The house is over 100 years old and I have been helping them restore it, that will be key when we get around to that
But did you caulk the bottom of the nailing flange?? I know you definitely caulk sides and top with continuous solid bead… also if it’s a no flange window would you caulk the bottom?? I thought it was a no caulk on bottom to allow for drainage, but so many conflicting videos by so called experts…
Nice, low-cost, quick-to-install flashing detail. I presume you use sealant/backer rod for interior air sealing? If so, what sealant do you use? Do you slope your sills 5 degrees or don't you find that necessary?
I don’t know, I like to do my windows like you do a skylight. Not just pee and stick on the framing waiting for caulking to fail. Then water gets led inside (but at least the framing is protected?) leaving the insulation and interior sheathing waiting for doom. All tyvek, blueskin, zip tape, tuck tape etc etc people wrap the framing and not seal the windows….
The flashing on the bottom is not supposed to be fully installed until the stucco lather comes and ties in the house rap underneath the bottom flashing. 😢
Great video! Quick question. You mentioned in one of your reply’s you seal the window along the bottom in the inside as to direct water out the front where nail flange is. What product do you seal it with? And is the the same product you used along the top and side nail flange prior to installing? Appreciate all the insight and time you guys spend on these videos! Cheers.
Not them, but, I believe in acrylic or poly caulking a little more than just a painter's grade latex caulking. However if you flash the window right, and then seal around the window with the spray foam, the foam should do the same thing so long as the foam adheres to your window and the flashed sill.
Great Video. As a new soon to be home owner(new build). I want to know about some standards. I see you used the stretch to overlay the corners (which were cut with zip tape), to prevent water intrusion. 1)Is it better or safer to just use the stretch period instead of overlaying, as this would provide better integrity? 2)Also, I see you did not put zip tape around the perimeter of frame before you installed the window, is this minimum standard ? Is it overkill if you did or just a peace of mind thing??? 3)Also , is there a minumum overlap of tape on bottom of sill required.??
There is no inherent advantage in a single piece sill with the Stretch tape. Minimum overlaps are 1" with the Zip tapes. I say save the money and use the 6" for the sill and Stretch in the corners. When the tapes bond to each other (don't forget to roll the tape), this stuff isn't going to come apart. I don't see any advantage in putting Zip around the opening, then hanging the window, then taping again. Some people do that for air sealing, but it isn't necessary for weatherizing the window install.
@@AwesomeFramers I forgot to finish my previous comment. I am having windows installed now with traditional staple on flashing. This flashing is stapled to the wood 2x4's of the house, then the window is installed on top of this flashing. Doesn't seem right to me but the installers are claiming it is. I am trying to find videos of similar products. This zip system stuff looks way better than what they are doing here.
@@travisk5589 that is a common detail for the framers to staple up strips of Tyvek or tar paper or whatever the WRB is. Then the siders integrate that with the WRB when they install it. This is one of the many reasons we made the switch to Zip back in 2009
And the paper goes over the bottom flashing? That would be like starting your shingles at the top of the roof. This is not correct not even close. Unless of course at Green plywood is supposed to be waterproof?
That tape on the bottom flange bothers me. I think the bottom should be left open in a few places, to allow water to drain if it somehow gets in there. That's why sloped sills are often incorporated into modern windows.
The window sits on top of that sill flashing, this allows water to drain to the exterior. It is never a good idea to seal that flange to the wall. I think you and I agree 👍
Remember the Zip system counts Entirely on the tape been installed properly and in Dry weather conditions , clean Sheathing . I put the odds on that happening at about 20% in todays market. Stick with your Tyveck if you want a good vapor barrier and to increase your odds on having a good job. I put House wrap odds at about 78% to get installed properly .
@@AwesomeFramers Dude, I work on two hundred year old buildings and I repair newer ones as well. Modern building materials are absolutely horrible and architects acknowledge that modern houses are looking at a 50 year lifespan before major reconstruction. I was fixing houses before most of you You Tube carpenters were even born...
I hear you, but I have a strong opinion about this. It takes a lot of water for the sloped sill do do any good. At that point we've got major problems. It seems rational to focus on preventing that to begin with.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Good video i have been watching my new construction go up and trying to understand and double check everything as it goes
How do you caulk/foam/insulate the window on the inside after you have it set like in this video?
From a glazier to a framer, we’ll done! Exactly how I do flashing and install.
Well in San Diego, you won't pass inspection unless you complete all sides and than install window.
Nice job guys! That's a proper way to install a window and I've been installing new construction and replacement windows for over 40 years! Nice tight seal!
Thanks!!
The corner tape should go in first, then the tape covering the sill on top if it. I understand that there is still tape going over that, but it's best practice to cover all your tape edges unless they are adhering to the wall or framing
I don't agree and if you look at other manufacturer's instructions, sill is taped, then corner pieces from there. It doesn't actually matter since its all stuck together and rolled.
You don't need to cut the tape. All you have to do is stretch it down over the corners.
Maybe stretch on bottom all the way, better integrity...But I see your point...if a penetration, it would have to get around top seal, then the stretch (very unlikely)
@@AwesomeFramers I must demur…it’s technically reverse shingled unless the corner goes on first…
Liquid flash on sill and up t inches on flange-simple easy monolithic I’m critical area to be flashed. When you compare prosocco liquid flash at proper thickness to zip tape, esp full stretch , in sill and up 4-6 inches. No that much more expensive and less than an hour to set ; no worries Re rolling tape vigorously and fully, no ripples fish mouths in tape etc.and do repeat, OF water gets in, and it will. How does it exit this Sherman? You’ve sealed off bottom flange and all four interior sides
Can't fail with this video. I always wondered why it was so drafty near the windows. 😊
Thanks for showing me that little batwing trick in the corner. I'm going to remember that one.
How would you do this if your house is wrapped, say tyvec. Same way?
How is the sill sealed to the framing? You’re not taping the bottom nailfin. Are you caulking the back of the bottom nailfin when you do the others? Thanks for the info!
Best practice is to not tape the bottom nailfin because if a little water (or condensation) somehow gets past the sides or top, it needs a way out. I'm not sure what the best practice is on whether to caulk the bottom nailfin. Logic would suggest you leave that out too for the same reason.
You have to air seal the window on the inside. I tape the window jambs onto the framing with Siga Rissan tape. I use mineral wool insulation between the window and RO
@@CMCraftsman We are using Prosoco AirDam now.
We bought a house and didn't realize that it wasn't wrapped or flashed until the floor near a window seemed wet. Is there a way to remedy this without removing tearing vinyl siding?
Hi Michelle, I'm sorry to hear about that. To properly repair the siding should be removed. Besides the leak, damaged sheathing or framing may need to b addressed as well.
I had to do this to my house. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Same! We have water coming into our house from the window! I would venture to say we got mold in that wall, too!!!
What would you do here if you didn’t have the stretch tape available for the bottom corners?
There are a few other brands of tape. Tyvek makes one called flex wrap.
Great question Caleb. I wouldn't personally use a non acrylic tape. Here is the method recommended ruclips.net/video/m_mZFT3R6Hs/видео.html
I would highly recommend using the Stretch Tape. You can buy it on Amazon.
Do you install any kind of z flashing over the top of the window here?
Do you caulk the bottom nail flange?
Great question. No never caulk behind the bottom flange. Water needs a way out. Instead inside we'll caulk the frame to the sill as a back dam.
does anyone know if the bottom of the window should also be flashed? I just had some windows put on and the framers put zip tape on all 4 sides on the outside flanges
I have a video of me cutting the zip tape along the bottom flange of a window that did not leak from the outside and water is pouring out of it. It’s an entire winter of vapor making its way in around the window from the interior of the house and condensing on the back side of the flange and dripping into the sill pan. It’s important to leave the bottom flange un nailed and air seal the window from the inside so no air can get around the window. I’ll also note that spray foam was used to insulate the windows so spray foam is not an air seal.
You did not fasten the head flange, any reason why?
Excellent question Dan 👍
That's a throwback to my training way back. All our windows had a sticker that said "don't nail through top flange". I can't find anything current that shows this. I was told it was because the sawn headers, usually 6x, could shrink and pull the window.
I doubt that is actually an issue now since we use LVL headers.
@@AwesomeFramers I worked in Gig Harbor 6,7 years ago and the guy's I worked for didn't screw or nail either. They gave me some BS answer that made no sense! I'll go with your answer, thanks!
Thanks for sharing such a simple and effective way. I watched some other videos and they tape the entire opening then caulk and install window then retake with sill open. 🤷🏻♂️🤦♂️ such a waste of money for the same air and water tight results.
I like that awesome is looking creatively at balancing costs time quality and endurance. I think many windows we see on utube are over flashed- of course if you are spending 1,000mplus on some houses/sites (you know who I’m talking about) spending $60 on materials let insuppose makes sense .
So that plywood doesn't need home wrap?
@@FranciscoGonzalez-ro7ht yep zipsystem.com
Thanks I have seen so many not do this step.
Do you also tape the top corners or no?
How come you cut the initial zip tape instead of just stretching that piece over the corners?
The initial piece was Zip Tape, not Zip Stretch Tape. I think the idea here is to save a bit of money and using less stretch tape.
I'm trying to learn how to do this so I have a couple questions if you don't mind answering them. You first put the flashing tape on the sill and up the sides, then you followed with flex tape on those bottom corners. Why not put the flex tape in those corners then put the tape over that on the sill/sides? Seems like that would be the better way to shed water if it got in and ran down the sides. My second question is why not tape all the way up the sides and the top of the opening? Wouldn't that be a good idea to prevent any air that gets behind the window from making its way into the house? I know that some people don't put sealant on the bottom flange of the window so that any water that gets in can escape (not sure if you did that here or not) but if you did and the window has a great seal to the sheathing then I guess I can see why you wouldn't need to run tape all the way up the sides and across the top.
Hey Josh, great questions. The reason I used the Stretch Tape in the bottom corners over the sill tape is because back in the day that is how the premade corners installed. I did ask around and it seems like this is a 50% prefer 1 way and the other 50% the other. I think its important to understand that these are "self-terminating" flashings and bond so well that it doesn't ultimately matter.
As to taping the sheathing to the jam all the way around for air sealing, we've blower door tested hundreds of windows installed this way (when the house is finished) and they are air tight. What I didn't show in this video is the other part of the process, sealing from the backside. That is the builders job and not the framers, so I just showed this portion in this video.
Never seal the bottom flange to the sill, we seal the backside of the window on the inside of the house to the sill there. This allows water to drain.
@@AwesomeFramers I appreciate the reply!
I really want some of this but in the uk its 400 quid, gutted because I can't find anything similar to fix a leaking summer house
What about aluminum flashing on top of the window?
Do you caulk behind the bottom flange too?
Nope, the idea is to be able to let water out. Though in reality that's not going to work
How often do you roll the tape ?
Are you caulking the back of the bottom flange?
No, if water gets back there you want it to fall out, in fact, they should have put horseshoe shims behind the screws on the bottom flange.
@@generalshrooms That's what I thought, but he said something about always passing energy pressure tests. Perhaps they backer rod and caulked the interior to seal.
Why don’t we use pressure treated wood for our sills??
Great video! Why do you put the zip tape on the inside of the window for the bottom section? Why not the outside like you did for the top and sides?
The sill gets taped as a sill pan, then window set on it, after install the legs and head of the window get taped to the wall. This allows any moisture to be able to drain. Well that's the conventional wisdom.
Wow! Am I over flashing zip wall systems? this is exactrly how I flash regular typar homes, but on zip systems I was taught to flash the entire opening. Top, sides, and bottom, and bring the tape from the outside all the way flush to the inside. Tons of zip tape(which isn't cheap).
I guess the argument is, they caulked under the fin and taped over the fin. The flashing inside the frame wouldn't prevent water intrusion from getting in. That said, I flash the framing as well. I don't want water inside the wall cavity. I'd rather have it weep on the drywall side in a worst case scenario.
Shane, you’re supposed to laugh at the bosses’ jokes, buddy 😅
Got start with the corner. Piece and them lay the bottom tape.
Corner tape should be installed prior to flashing the sill
Nobody ever reads the instructions
What brand windows do you prefer to use?
Hi Crystal, we use PlyGem
Thank you! What screws did you use for installing the window? Also, I saw you measure the diagonals from corner to corner, how could you change that if it were off?
Hey Vinny great questions. I buy 2" wood screws because the head has a low profile. GRK makes a great cabinet screw that works very well too. As far as adjusting the window, a prybar on the inside of house between the window unit and framing will move the window. Keep in mind that if you are 1/4" (we never are) out of square you only need to move 1/2 that, or 1/8". Typically we are at most 1/8" out of square so just a small adjustment is required.
@@AwesomeFramerswhen I was installing windows I used a 7.5 x 120mm T25 masonry screw most of the time.
I always wondered why not tape the bottom of the window. You calk all around. If the window is sealed ,air tite then where would potential water come from.?
good question. The thinking is that not sealing the window to the sill on the outside can allow water to drain, so we only tape the legs and head of the window after setting the window on a flashed sill. Personally I've seen windows leak (my house had no flashing) and the water goes nowhere but just sits on the sill.
fastener? what kind?
No metal flashing?
So a couple bought my grandparents home and they want to seal the windows. The house is over 100 years old and I have been helping them restore it, that will be key when we get around to that
always , always , always ! , thanks , that will stick with me now !😮 , excellent footage on How To
How lucky is Shane getting taught off of you guys
But did you caulk the bottom of the nailing flange?? I know you definitely caulk sides and top with continuous solid bead… also if it’s a no flange window would you caulk the bottom?? I thought it was a no caulk on bottom to allow for drainage, but so many conflicting videos by so called experts…
Nice, low-cost, quick-to-install flashing detail. I presume you use sealant/backer rod for interior air sealing? If so, what sealant do you use? Do you slope your sills 5 degrees or don't you find that necessary?
I don't bother with the sloped sill
I disagree...5 degree is slope not a bad thing....small detail that just makes sense!
Please share the 'strechy' corner product name/manufacturer
www.huberwood.com/zip-system/stretch-tape?gclid=CjwKCAiAg8OBBhA8EiwAlKw3kjSs7dfkFO0t7IRqONBcs52TI8qySt3xmqZtvw9k5Pg1xMIIKguEghoCFfcQAvD_BwE
Just one part I didn't get. Am I supposed to roll the tape? 😄😄😄
I don’t know, I like to do my windows like you do a skylight.
Not just pee and stick on the framing waiting for caulking to fail. Then water gets led inside (but at least the framing is protected?) leaving the insulation and interior sheathing waiting for doom.
All tyvek, blueskin, zip tape, tuck tape etc etc people wrap the framing and not seal the windows….
For the corners I would first place the 6” down in each then the roll all along.
Isn't that lower left screw a little close to the corner?. I also didn't see any screws on the head of the window?. Jumped the gun there my friend.
Jumped the gun in what fashion? Lower left screw is fine, we don't fasten at the header because it allows the framing to move.
The flashing on the bottom is not supposed to be fully installed until the stucco lather comes and ties in the house rap underneath the bottom flashing. 😢
Always always always!!! Great video!
Thanks Frank ;-)
Great video! Quick question. You mentioned in one of your reply’s you seal the window along the bottom in the inside as to direct water out the front where nail flange is. What product do you seal it with? And is the the same product you used along the top and side nail flange prior to installing? Appreciate all the insight and time you guys spend on these videos! Cheers.
Not them, but, I believe in acrylic or poly caulking a little more than just a painter's grade latex caulking. However if you flash the window right, and then seal around the window with the spray foam, the foam should do the same thing so long as the foam adheres to your window and the flashed sill.
I use Siga Rissan tape to air seal the window on the inside
Very nice
Thanks so much John
Great Video. As a new soon to be home owner(new build). I want to know about some standards. I see you used the stretch to overlay the corners (which were cut with zip tape), to prevent water intrusion.
1)Is it better or safer to just use the stretch period instead of overlaying, as this would provide better integrity?
2)Also, I see you did not put zip tape around the perimeter of frame before you installed the window, is this minimum standard ? Is it overkill if you did or just a peace of mind thing???
3)Also , is there a minumum overlap of tape on bottom of sill required.??
There is no inherent advantage in a single piece sill with the Stretch tape. Minimum overlaps are 1" with the Zip tapes. I say save the money and use the 6" for the sill and Stretch in the corners. When the tapes bond to each other (don't forget to roll the tape), this stuff isn't going to come apart.
I don't see any advantage in putting Zip around the opening, then hanging the window, then taping again. Some people do that for air sealing, but it isn't necessary for weatherizing the window install.
Thank you
Did I miss something? Was there any adhesive or caullking used?
Edit. They did caulk. I am having windows installed right now
👍👍 Yep sealant on the back of the fins. This tape is unreal, make surely they roll it 👍
@@AwesomeFramers I forgot to finish my previous comment. I am having windows installed now with traditional staple on flashing. This flashing is stapled to the wood 2x4's of the house, then the window is installed on top of this flashing. Doesn't seem right to me but the installers are claiming it is. I am trying to find videos of similar products. This zip system stuff looks way better than what they are doing here.
@@travisk5589 that is a common detail for the framers to staple up strips of Tyvek or tar paper or whatever the WRB is. Then the siders integrate that with the WRB when they install it.
This is one of the many reasons we made the switch to Zip back in 2009
Missed a couple screws on the side bud!
And the paper goes over the bottom flashing? That would be like starting your shingles at the top of the roof. This is not correct not even close. Unless of course at Green plywood is supposed to be waterproof?
Check www.zipsystem.com the grean coating is the WRB, no need for housewrap
I put the corner tape in first so you don’t have a negative lap.
The stretch tape pieces should have been first, then the standard tape
That tape on the bottom flange bothers me. I think the bottom should be left open in a few places, to allow water to drain if it somehow gets in there. That's why sloped sills are often incorporated into modern windows.
The window sits on top of that sill flashing, this allows water to drain to the exterior. It is never a good idea to seal that flange to the wall. I think you and I agree 👍
I don't flash windows anymore. Since my neighbor complained. 😂😂😅😅
Nice. 😂
Wait you got Shane to smile ha ha .
Not done correctly.....
Corner should been first....
U didn’t even tape the top inside the window
and then the siding guy comes behind you and puts a hole straight through that
Come on Shane don't just stand there!
Remember the Zip system counts Entirely on the tape been installed properly and in Dry weather conditions , clean Sheathing . I put the odds on that happening at about 20% in todays market. Stick with your Tyveck if you want a good vapor barrier and to increase your odds on having a good job. I put House wrap odds at about 78% to get installed properly .
Tyvek requires more thinking, planning and detailing. Your point actually proved why we don't use it
Gussets should go on first
Pay attention SHANE
biff and george mcfly
Wrong, tape the corners first
Why?
FYI: www.huberwood.com/uploads/documents/technical/W-1.3-Flanged-Window-Flashing-Sill-pan-with-Flashing-Tape-and-Stretch-Tape-Detail-Wall-ZIP-System_2021-09-17-135608_xdud.pdf
Kinda sounds like
Mark Wahlberg.
Mark says thank you 😁
That looks like a 50 year lifespan at best.....
Its such a shame that the ignorati feel such a need to comment.......
@@AwesomeFramers Dude, I work on two hundred year old buildings and I repair newer ones as well. Modern building materials are absolutely horrible and architects acknowledge that modern houses are looking at a 50 year lifespan before major reconstruction. I was fixing houses before most of you You Tube carpenters were even born...
@berrypainter we get it Boomer, you're insecure
Should be nailed hence the name ‘ nailing flange’
That's not logical, not is it accurate.
Pop a piece of clapboard on the sill so it has some pitch, then get you some tyvek flex wrap an seal that hog up.
I hear you, but I have a strong opinion about this. It takes a lot of water for the sloped sill do do any good. At that point we've got major problems. It seems rational to focus on preventing that to begin with.