Hi man. Great video thanks. I am doing the same install on my 1977 280Z. I have two questions about the wiring I hope you can answer for me. 1. Where did you get the switched 12v from for the FAST ECU? 2. The fuel pump diagram says to also put switched 12v on the relay (86 pin). Did you use the same switched 12v for that? I can't figure out why it would need switched 12v since the fuel pump wire from the FAST harness (85 pin) should be doing the switching by giving it ground or not. I hope you understand what I mean :) Thanks!
I know I'm late on this, just saw the video. I have a 77 z and if the engine loads up enough to stall,check the temp sensor connector it is usually corroded and green. Clean or replace. On cold start it is 2.4k ohms. At operating temperature it is 200 ohms. Open is infinity on ohms. If it still loads up and stalls after that or when slamming the driver's door it's the ECU. I used to take them apart and fix the PC board but it's cheaper to buy a new one. Don't use a used or junk yard one. Been a Nissan master tech since 87. Not much I don't know about Z's. Had my Z over 40years. And no, I would never put a GM part on her.
How did you get the TPS voltage at idle to be preloaded to .7? And how come? I am having issue with idle during deceleration so I am looking at other people’s setup.
Im trying to do this now. The only question i have is the rpm module so it only hooks up to negative side of the coil, ground and the harness... what did you do with the distributor wiring?? Is it even used anymore??
Nice job with the video very informative. I'm seriously looking at buying this but wanted to know if it has any affects the emissions. I'm running a mild cam (slalom) and it makes it hard to get thru state emission test. Can EZefi be turned to lower emissions? Thanks
At 5:28 why do you go to "Other" instead of "Multiport"? I'm curious more than anything else since on my SBC individual EFI injectors I select "multiport"..... just trying to learn (mine is ez-efi 2.0).
I really like the idea if this. I have looked at megasquirt in the past but this looks so much simpler. I do not have any reliability issues with my stock set up. I have even taken the car on three 2k mile trips and it's incredibly reliable. These cars were built to be driven! Anyway my question is did you see a fuel economy change? I see 26mpg average on long trips. All 75-90 mph. I have tall gears and it loves the highway. If I could improve on that I think it would be worth the investment. I would like to upgrade that terribly restrictive intake at the same time.
There is a small increase of mpg. You can set the target AFR for when it's cruising and the computer will adjust fuel accordingly. In my opinion the engine runs much smoother over factory setup
@@Redline280zChannel Sounds like it would be worth it. Mine always runs a little rich, better than lean I figure. But I suspect it's just old wires increase resistance = more fuel. I think I'll give it a go in the spring. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for posting this (and the part 1, too). I'm resurrecting a '77 that's had tuning issues since I got it. So I've been curious about this kit. Do you know if this system needs the rising rate FPR that comes on the stock fuel rail? Or, will it also work with an adjustable FPR like you'd use on an aftermarket rail? I think this with a Palnet or other aluminum rail would really clean things up.
Just installed the EFI system after seeing your video! I’m having a hard time though, my car idles really good but dies after I add throttle. Any tips?
I've been waiting for this! I was going to ask if so far you've noticed any improvements in reliability? Right now with everything stock I've been running into hot start problems, and starting to get cold start problems. Do you think this would help with that?
My car starts up every-time whether the engine is hot or cold. Before, sometimes it wouldn't start at all. This kit could possibly help with your start up since it replaces your EFI system. Have you changed your fuel pump? It sounds like a failing fuel pump or other fuel related problems.
Yeah, I'm actually on fuel pump number three. Lol. I should've cleaned my tank earlier, but also I was thinking maybe since the guy I bought it from seems to have opened the AFM, maybe he was also experiencing problems with hot start before, and just tuned the AFM by hand. Lol. Also, I changed the fuel rail hoses, and the injector seals, I don't have anymore fuel leaks, but I still have difficulty starting it. I even have the problem if I leave the CSI unplugged, thinking it was just running too rich. No luck. Any suggestions?
Seems to run fine, seems to lose some power when it's hot, but it isn't much loss. It's almost unnoticeable. When it drives, it's awesome Edit: Sometimes when it does get a hot start it runs really sluggish for a few minutes
Having the AFM tuned incorrectly can cause difficulty starting. Does the floor got really hot? (Sign of running lean.Bad AFM) I've also had an intermittently bad coolant temp sensor cause me starting problems. I would double check everything first before buying this kit.
supposedly it should make more power because it will learn and adjust for my header and exhaust system. removing the air flow meter should reduce restriction to the intake. I haven't gone to a dyno to verify this but it does not feel any slower. i could not find info on whether or not its legal in CA
Great video of installation "VERY GOOD" Its june 16 2018 Im viewing this vid. That battery should be ,in moving air, it creates gas. ( behind your seat is NOT the Place for it. Besides it will eat the back of your seat from acid the floor as well, and your breathing in acid fumes and the acid is in the cock pit eating everything those fumes land on. The engineers have it over the fender well for a good reason. Move it back to the engine compartment. The other thing , having wires under the pedals against the fire wall......is NOT a good thing not a good look. A sports car needs to be neater than that installation to be reliable And if it looks right it is right. I also saw alot of connectors ( cause heat build up) the few connectors on a wire the better. Just saying move uo to the next level of being a" sports car guy. " The chassis is the car. All systems should be as well routed and professional looking as "at least the original lay out or better" The body work is just to keep the rain out.Alot of "sports car newbies" work on the outside first. But an experienced builder will be all about the chassis first.( get that sorted out and neat installs) Again great video well done very good camera. ( clear sharp video )and explanations
I am putting the older system on my V8 . You helped more then most people bid .
Hi man. Great video thanks. I am doing the same install on my 1977 280Z. I have two questions about the wiring I hope you can answer for me.
1. Where did you get the switched 12v from for the FAST ECU?
2. The fuel pump diagram says to also put switched 12v on the relay (86 pin). Did you use the same switched 12v for that? I can't figure out why it would need switched 12v since the fuel pump wire from the FAST harness (85 pin) should be doing the switching by giving it ground or not. I hope you understand what I mean :)
Thanks!
I know I'm late on this, just saw the video. I have a 77 z and if the engine loads up enough to stall,check the temp sensor connector it is usually corroded and green. Clean or replace. On cold start it is 2.4k ohms. At operating temperature it is 200 ohms. Open is infinity on ohms. If it still loads up and stalls after that or when slamming the driver's door it's the ECU. I used to take them apart and fix the PC board but it's cheaper to buy a new one. Don't use a used or junk yard one. Been a Nissan master tech since 87. Not much I don't know about Z's. Had my Z over 40years. And no, I would never put a GM part on her.
How did you get the TPS voltage at idle to be preloaded to .7? And how come? I am having issue with idle during deceleration so I am looking at other people’s setup.
Im trying to do this now. The only question i have is the rpm module so it only hooks up to negative side of the coil, ground and the harness... what did you do with the distributor wiring?? Is it even used anymore??
Nice job with the video very informative. I'm seriously looking at buying this but wanted to know if it has any affects the emissions. I'm running a mild cam (slalom) and it makes it hard to get thru state emission test. Can EZefi be turned to lower emissions? Thanks
At 5:28 why do you go to "Other" instead of "Multiport"? I'm curious more than anything else since on my SBC individual EFI injectors I select "multiport"..... just trying to learn (mine is ez-efi 2.0).
Yeah that was the incorrect setting. multiport is the one you should be using
Do you have to use hi impedance injectors? I had Turbo injectors but I couldn't get it to run right. Put stock injectors in and nothing
sweet thank you, i've been waiting on this
sorry it took so long to get this out, lol
I really like the idea if this. I have looked at megasquirt in the past but this looks so much simpler. I do not have any reliability issues with my stock set up. I have even taken the car on three 2k mile trips and it's incredibly reliable. These cars were built to be driven!
Anyway my question is did you see a fuel economy change? I see 26mpg average on long trips. All 75-90 mph. I have tall gears and it loves the highway. If I could improve on that I think it would be worth the investment. I would like to upgrade that terribly restrictive intake at the same time.
There is a small increase of mpg. You can set the target AFR for when it's cruising and the computer will adjust fuel accordingly. In my opinion the engine runs much smoother over factory setup
@@Redline280zChannel Sounds like it would be worth it. Mine always runs a little rich, better than lean I figure. But I suspect it's just old wires increase resistance = more fuel. I think I'll give it a go in the spring. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for posting this! Hopefully fitting this kit over the next month, not looking forward to pulling the manifold off for the O2 bung :|
it's not too bad of a job. I recommend new hardware for when you get everything back together
Can you do another video to review this after a few months of use?
For the fuel pump relay, did you just wire in an everyday relay, eliminating the stock relay altogether?
Yes
Thanks for posting this (and the part 1, too). I'm resurrecting a '77 that's had tuning issues since I got it. So I've been curious about this kit. Do you know if this system needs the rising rate FPR that comes on the stock fuel rail? Or, will it also work with an adjustable FPR like you'd use on an aftermarket rail? I think this with a Palnet or other aluminum rail would really clean things up.
either setup will work
So do you remove the BCDD or keep it when you do the swap?
Just installed the EFI system after seeing your video! I’m having a hard time though, my car idles really good but dies after I add throttle. Any tips?
Make acc fuel in negative range. Maybe -6
Zcardepot sold out of these but I’m trying to build my own. Anybody know the year the sensors are from or what gm motor?
Great video! Btw, where did you get the sheet metal for the side skirts?
Matchu the side skirts and a bunch of other parts are available at skillard.com
I've been waiting for this! I was going to ask if so far you've noticed any improvements in reliability? Right now with everything stock I've been running into hot start problems, and starting to get cold start problems. Do you think this would help with that?
My car starts up every-time whether the engine is hot or cold. Before, sometimes it wouldn't start at all. This kit could possibly help with your start up since it replaces your EFI system. Have you changed your fuel pump? It sounds like a failing fuel pump or other fuel related problems.
Yeah, I'm actually on fuel pump number three. Lol. I should've cleaned my tank earlier, but also I was thinking maybe since the guy I bought it from seems to have opened the AFM, maybe he was also experiencing problems with hot start before, and just tuned the AFM by hand. Lol. Also, I changed the fuel rail hoses, and the injector seals, I don't have anymore fuel leaks, but I still have difficulty starting it. I even have the problem if I leave the CSI unplugged, thinking it was just running too rich. No luck. Any suggestions?
does it run good while driving? you can give it full throttle?
Seems to run fine, seems to lose some power when it's hot, but it isn't much loss. It's almost unnoticeable. When it drives, it's awesome
Edit: Sometimes when it does get a hot start it runs really sluggish for a few minutes
Having the AFM tuned incorrectly can cause difficulty starting. Does the floor got really hot? (Sign of running lean.Bad AFM) I've also had an intermittently bad coolant temp sensor cause me starting problems. I would double check everything first before buying this kit.
How hard is the installation? Im a begginer/medium mecanic.
Are you still running that now in 23?
Is the FAST EFI still working good? Are you happy with it? I'm debating getting it for my 77 280
Yes, car is still running great
Awesome build...but i will recommend new automatic RADIATOR FANS
Naif Mohammad Sharif I was considering doing an electric fan setup
what if the if i put the turbo injectors on a non turbo engine? will that ecu be able to configure them or will i need something extra?
You can input the injector rate
Can you use the stock fuel pump with this kit? Just wiring it to work?
Yes the fuel pump is stock
What exhaust system are you running? And where'd you pick up those headers?
Jose Toaster exhaust setup is available from zcarparts.com. I changed the muffler to an apexi one
Redline 280z Thanks man, she sounds great
also what is your wheel dimensions and tire dimensions
Awesome, what size and offset are those wheels?
Built Not Bought TV wheels are 15x9 -15 offset
That fitment looks amazing. I have same size but -20 offset and my flares look almost too small. How much did you cut out of your fenders?
Built Not Bought TV the fenders are actually not cut. Lol
does this motor usually run that lean? edit nvm im dumb its idling
yup AFR is around 12 under full load
How responsive is the pedal after the swap?
pedal response is great! wheels are 15x9-15 tires are 205/50R15. I will probably go up on tire size next time because i want less stretch
How are you liking your new set up?
it runs great and its very nice having a readout of various info on the screen.
Have you had any loss in power? Or gained any? And would you happen to know if it’s legal in CA?
supposedly it should make more power because it will learn and adjust for my header and exhaust system. removing the air flow meter should reduce restriction to the intake. I haven't gone to a dyno to verify this but it does not feel any slower. i could not find info on whether or not its legal in CA
Thanks for all your help man! I really appreciate the help!
Very cool, how do you like the EZ EFI conversion? I put one on my Mopar. Just subed to your channel, can you return the favor.
Nice!
AAA280Z-BRUH 👌
nice video
Is the AFR adjustable?
Yes
where can one find those headlights?
joakimwijken get them at superbrightleds.com
Slam door, car dies. I love it.
But that's what happens 😂
Hello 1
Great video of installation "VERY GOOD"
Its june 16 2018 Im viewing this vid.
That battery should be ,in moving air, it creates gas. ( behind your seat is NOT the Place for it.
Besides it will eat the back of your seat from acid the floor as well, and your breathing in acid fumes and the acid is in the cock pit eating everything those fumes land on.
The engineers have it over the fender well for a good reason.
Move it back to the engine compartment.
The other thing , having wires under the pedals against the fire wall......is NOT a good thing not a good look.
A sports car needs to be neater than that installation to be reliable
And if it looks right it is right.
I also saw alot of connectors ( cause heat build up) the few connectors on a wire the better.
Just saying move uo to the next level of being a" sports car guy. " The chassis is the car. All systems should be as well routed and professional looking as "at least the original lay out or better"
The body work is just to keep the rain out.Alot of "sports car newbies" work on the outside first.
But an experienced builder will be all about the chassis first.( get that sorted out and neat installs)
Again great video well done very good camera. ( clear sharp video )and explanations