Convoy S2+ Triple Led Build. Step By Step Build Tutorial.
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- Опубликовано: 3 мар 2017
- That's right we are going to build a Custom Convoy S2+ with a triple Led, Glow Gasket and a FET +7135 Driver.
This little light is super bright with a good Flood beam. The firmware that I am using on the driver is the Guppy Dual firmware that has 22 programmable modes (11 with memory & 11 without memory)
This light get really hot on high at around 25-30 seconds so setting the Turbo/High timer that will step the light down from 100% to 50% is very important!
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All the parts I purchased for this build and more can be found here Except The Glow Gasket which I contacted Strong Lights On Facebook To Purchase The Gasket. www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php 
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I've seen some of the worst soldering advice in the comment section here. The reason the solder didn't melt was because the tip wasn't tinned. Add a tiny bit of rosin or flux core solder to the tip of the iron before you go to desolder, and it will pop right off. The additional solder acts like thermal paste and transfers the heat of the iron to the cold solder more efficiently.
Love the detail of your steps! As an educator it is nice to see a tutorial that is good for any level user.👍
I agree. Most of my DIY videos are a little longer than most but they are that way for a reason so that I can get as much info in them for most to understand and learn from so they will have the confidence to take on the project
@@luxlumen4605 👍 This was my 30th year teaching middle school... There is so much to be said for having a lesson that is so clear that everyone has success right from the get go. Keep up the good work! ps... Lux Lumen would be a great super hero name!
@@luxlumen4605 I agree with the teacher, the amount of info is good, but I think if you walk away from the camera to do stuff, maybe cut that out lol there were a few. I missed the explanation of the tail spring bypass and saw a comment about it but can you explain that? Also beam shots would be awesome.
Awesome tutorial thanks for putting this up. Built my first triple.
Great video.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the video. One soldering tip: "flux". After that, I'd suggest a higher quality soldering station. I love my T12 based knock-off soldering station - outputs enough heat to unsolder the driver from an S2+ pill (one side at a time, using solder sucker).
Thanks! I have definitely upgraded my soldering station since this video.
Awesome tutorial!
Thank you!
good step to step following video. Thx
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
Nice light build. A couple things. 1. The reason you had such a hard time desoldering and soldering to that board is because the whole back of the PCB is a copper heat sink, it's soaking up all the heat from your iron. You need to really crank up the heat on your iron when you solder/desolder on something like that. 2. Thermal paste does not "help conduct the heat better", that is not what it's designed for. The purpose of it is to fill the microscopic imperfections where the two surfaces meet, so that you have as much surface area contact as possible. So you really want as little as possible on there, as the conductivity will always be better between the metal surfaces. 3. A spring bypass is pointless on this build, because the spring is already bypassed, as you noted yourself. Electricity takes the path of least resistance, and because your negative terminal is soldered directly to the pad at the tip of the spring, that's where the current will flow. In other words, in this build the spring already isn't the conductor, it's literally only there to put preload pressure on the battery, thus there is nothing to "bypass". Very nice final product, I think I'll be building one of these myself but without the diffuser.
I assumed he was referring to the spring in the tail, which, if not bypassed might be worth doing, wouldn't it?
For anyone new to soldering, soldering irons work extremely very much better with clean and freshly tinned tips.
I spent years being careless about that. I had inconsistent results until someone told me about the importance.
So if you don't solder much, and decide to do a build, do yourself a favor and clean and tin the iron tip first.
Hey boss, I’m in law enforcement and still use my streamlight sl20x halogen. Terralux use to make a drop in 600 lumen led conversion but no longer make it. There is little to no info on the interwebs on how to make a powerful and efficient conversion with the sl20x chassis. I love this light and it’s been with me for years. Can’t you make do a build on this? I’m sure there are others out there like me.
AWESOME!
Very nice !
Good tutorial. What was the purpose of making this 3led mod? Do you like the result or the original S2+ was better? Yes you need to master your soldering skills)
If I put my driver inside the pill like you did (with the ring removed) it is loose and doesn't reach the battery... are there two sizes? (using same host and setup as you did here)
I have a defiant pen light. Takes two AAA. I have never modded any flashlights. Would like to increase the brightness of them if possible. Any suggestions?
Can u review this torch in out door
Good video thanks. You don't need to solder the mcb to the pill? It's just the pressure from threading it in for heat conduction?
That's correct the Thermal Paste or Grease and the Optic will hold everything in place and once you run it a couple of times the Thermal Paste will thicken and act like a glue and hold it in place better so when you take it apart the MCPCB will stick a bit better to the pill and stop it from falling out of place.
@@luxlumen4605 thanks. I always assumed the three holes in the MCBCB were for screws to mechanically fix it. Baring that soldering it. Obviously you Can't solder it to aluminum but if it was copper it could be done
thanks
I want to mod one to use a Red LED. Is there any directly compatible red LED I could use ? Already modded one with IR. Thanks.
Nice vid, and great build. I love throwers but this seems like a nice build. I want to make a convoy c8 thrower. Im not to sure what i should buy? I was thinking xpl hi(not sure which version i should take) with fed+ driver and q30 battery. Would that be a good setup for max throw?
+polarweis that would be a great setup for a thrower, the XP-L HI was built to throw a nice narrow and bright beam and paired with the Convoy C8 they are the perfect match. With that led in a cool white version, Fet driver, tail spring bypass and high drain 18650 battery you will push just over 1,200 Lumens and get max throw out of it.
+luxLumen GR thats sounds good:) i got a astrolux ss right now and it says 1400 lumen with a xpl hi. So how does it do that? While all the others got less. Is the driver u use in this vid work good in a c8( the one with the wire passing the driver.
polarweis yes the driver I used in this build is a FET driver which is basically a direct driver which will allow the most current your battery will put out to go to the LED. The only thing that limits a build with this driver or any other FET driver would be the batteries being used and the Led being used. As for the Astrolux putting out 1400 Lumens I'm not sure how accurate that is but it may be possible. Does that Astrolux require a high drain battery of 10 amps + to Be used?
luxLumen GR yes it does need a high drain battery but it also works with protected. I dont think i get 1400 with the battery's i have right now. It does have a copper head for the heat but i dont think that makes such a big difference. Do you think samsung q30 is a good high drain or do you reccomend something else
polarweis yes the 30Q high drains will work just fine in the light, I do love the LG HG2 18650 batteries they are what I use in my vape mods... the one in this video was re-wrapped by me but as new batteries they have a brown wrap on them hence there Nick Name (LG Brownies)
Will the same parts fit the convoy S21A?
Will this make a good weapon light?
Hi, im wonder after seeing s2+ that david sunshine build he put the thermal paste to the copper thread. would that be any good doing that or will mess up the conductivity of the negative circuit to the copper pills ?
Yes it could definitely affect the grounding conductivity of the body to the head of the light. If you were able to put the thermal paste on the threads of the head down closer to where the pill seats and where the paste will not be touching the threads of the body you could get away with that for sure.
The switch, is that just a normal on-off switch that locks in either on or off?
Yes
Can you post components links list please?
Great vid! Detailed and clear. Did you have to flash the driver yourself? Or can they be purchased with the firmware installed?
Dylan they are purchased with the firmware of your choice already flashed for you.
Lux Lumen awesome. That makes it easy. I’m wondering if you could add more spacers and create a mule version?
@@Alerux99 you can use the same spacer and just add a spacer ring to make up for the height of the optic. JC Customs makes them if I'm not mistaken.
@@Alerux99 and the Spacer ring glows for a nice look to the light.
What is the official name of the tweezers you were using to remove the retaining rings ?
+Tony O very good question as I do not have the answer I just swiped them from the wife lol. Any pointed type of tweezers should work well and even some small skinny needle nose pliers will work.
Springringthing.
Where can i buy a triple led?
The wires that are connected to the led doesnt get the wires to hot? Because the're so close to the led and maybe melt?
polarweis they are a high temp silicone wrapped wire so the heat will not affect the wire.
luxLumen GR nice! The head will get very hot right? Do you like the output?
polarweis the mcpcb that the leds are on does get very hot along with the rest of the head part of the light after about 1 min of being on 100% power so I highly recommend that you get a driver that has a Turbo (100% power) step-down of at most 30 seconds.
luxLumen GR i read a lot of people use nichi led or somtimg why should i use that instead of xpl hi?
polarweis some use the Nichia Led because of the nice warm and neutral tints they offer plus they have less output so run times are slightly longer and they will run a bit cooler because of the less output of light they provide. The XP-L HI triple led's are bright as heck but pull more power then the XP-G2 led's. I love the output of my light in complete darkness it lights everything up great but it is a Neutral tint that I am getting used to because I normally prefer the cool white tints.
Does the glow gasket come in other colors?
Yes it does I think the colors are Blue, Green, Orange, Purple, Yellow, Pink and/or Red.
Mod the Lumintop tool aa
GITD how long can glow?
Sorry I didn't see this comment earlier. The glow gasket will glow for about 5-10 min with a slight glow remaining for about 30 min.
how many lumens?
Depends on the LEDs used for the build but I think this one was 2200 lumens.
Oh more fingerprint on led ,on glasses.
Lux.... why can't you just list the exact parts you are using with model numbers or even better the links, if this is a how to video, help us out with a true parts list.
He pretty much did that verbally in the video.
Pretty awesome tutorial.
have you ever heard of solder flux ?
Yes I have, why the question? Did you need to know something about it?
Geez Lycan.
Bad soldering!
Jon, he admitted as much, and did it off screen. There are how to solder vids elsewhere. Several of us suggested cleaning and tinning the tip on the iron.
Do you have any other suggestions? What heat would you set your iron for?