Can't wait to get my custom Warmoth neck! Pulled the trigger and ordered one with Stainless Steel frets because I was tired of my stainless steel strings busting up my nickle frets every 6 months.
Producing these videos is a good use of resources for Warmoth. I have never wanted to build a guitar from parts until I started seeing these videos. Now I'm very interested.
watching warmoth on youtube is a different thing from just website browsing, i’ve been thinking of buying a neck , and body , now became more serious thanks for the channel
I have 2 Warmoth basses and will eventually do a 3rd. They've gone together easily and required only a few things to be great, like chase the predrilled mounting holes with the pilot drill of my choice and fine dress the fret ends. Parts fit together great and no issues with intonation, etc. Their roasted neck are outstanding. Thanks for these videos. We would love to see more about how you all work!
I just watched this again today, and it hit me, how exacting the the work you do on each neck is! With that level of attention to details, it would be no wonder your necks are so well done!
@@warmoth Very cool! Not knowing the actual logo history till now, I often wondered if it was some sort of Greatful Dead "Terrapin Station" homage. As a tech nerd, I'd love some insight regarding the fabrication evolution from pre to post CNC technology.
I really enjoy these videos and can fully endorse the comment about the necks being player ready - I built a couple of Warmoth guitars and the necks just push fit perfectly into the neck pockets and apart from a truss rod tweak are perfect!
I can certainly attest to the play ability right out of the box. Though I live in Connecticut and the climate here is similar to that of Washington State. Took about a week to settle in. Not a bit of buzz. Nice, low action. Plays and feels great!
I do my fret job myself and build my own nuts, it's crucial to have some skills to get the best out of your Warmoth and make honor to the company hard work. Warmoth parts are easily on par with my Suhr/Tyler/TA/ESP Snapper (original series) or Xotic guitar, only my Marchione, because it's absolutely, totally hand made with wood scissors and hand plane by Stephen Marchione, feels different (not better, different). It's on what parts you pick and how/who do the extra little detail final job and assembling that will make your Warmoth, without a doubt, play on the playground of these high end brand (not the same, not better, just be on the same ground) i mentioned earlier, but with the pleasure of it being personal. Thank you Warmoth and happy 40th Anniversary !
Good stuff. Got 5 Warmoth necks, and they're great. I made the mistake of ordering one too wide, I hated it, but the fit and finish were simply perfect. You learn.
Thanks for the video. If i might i would like to ask 2 questions about stainless steel when used with compound radius- 1.do you pre bend them for every particular fret? and 2. You use closest radius in fret press for particular fret? The reason i asked, particularly the first question, is i noticed that stainless frets once bent don't like to change radius and in compound radius frets are never "perfect" 12 or 14 but in between.
the part where u actually measure the nut slot depth and cut the nut individually for every neck to attain the same final result for string depth just blew my mind. I always hate that all companies out there have different slot depths on every guitar.
Why doesn't Warmoth also offer a complete assembled guitar to the player's specs? Similar to how Kiesel does it. There are a few of us who would rather order everything and have it delivered as a finely finished guitar even if it would cost extra.
I like custom guitars. I have customed a few necks online and compared Warmoth to Musikart. I wish Warmoth made a 20" radius like Kiesel and other brands. I like the different neck profiles too 57V to Wizard or 59 etc
@@joses.a.2 Yes, it was finished nicely and bolted right on. I ended up using locking tuners, I put the neck on an American Strat that I bought off of reverb, new with no neck from stratosphere.
Hello there. I am trying to decide a fretwire for my build. I like tall frets and want to go with 6100ss. The build consists of an r3 floyd nut 12 inch radus neck and a carve top soloist body. I just want to know if you guys compensate for fret height when cutting floyd shelf slot. I dont want to have the guitar fretted with 6100ss and have the nut shelf cut for shorter frets and have the nut end up being too low. Please let me know. Thank you.
NOT playable right away. Fret ends are cut at a proper angle, but are left with very sharp edges that must be slightly rounded over. And mine buzzed everywhere out of the box, regardless of setup. Good necks, but absolutely require work before use.
This was another great video explaining in detail how Warmoth parts are made and assembled. And I think Aaron does a great job....But maybe it is time to use an animated Warmoth turtle like the Geico Gecko to do these videos. I thing the animated Warmoth turtle with a nice Aussie accent might be the perfect Warmoth spokesperson...err spokes reptile. :>) Thanks Aaron. PS I own 3 Warmoth necks and am very happy with all three. I don't like the feel of the standard Fender neck and being able to pick my own neck shape is a great help.
@@ravecaster yes I agree. As a matter of fact I've given this more thought and maybe instead of an animated turtle which would probably be very expensive to produce we'll just get Aaron a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle costume and he can do the videos in the turtle costume. Again with an Aussie accent. Seriously though these videos are very helpful in showing how the various Warmoth parts are made. I never knew they used glue when they put in the frets.
Good question. I've held W necks in one hand and MK neck in the other (multiple times), and compared them. By default, our fretboard edges come softened, similar to what MK calls "light rolled". As you know, MK also offers "heavy rolled". They can do that because they only offer an oil finish. Warmoth offers hard finish, which makes doing heavy rolled edges a little more problematic. For example, where along the radius of the rolled edge would you end the hard finish, and how? Hope that explains it!
@@warmoth I dont quite follow. First of all, I’ve got a one piece maple Mk neck with heavy rolled edges, finished with the standard polyurethane finish. I suppose you first do the rolling of the edges and then just apply whatever finish afterwards..? Or am I missing something? Appreciate the response! 🤘❤️🤘
Why? there's plenty of videos out there that do just that, especially on automotive painting, where most of those cool ideas in finishing come from in the first place. You may find techniques rarely seen on guitars that are wicked cool, but not necessarily easy to execute or get right🥵, and come at a high price🤑
Does the process of measuring for, and cutting, the nut also apply if TUSQ XL nuts are selected for installation on a custom or showcase neck? Or are the pre-slotted nuts used.
He said "All our nuts". Also you can buy GraphTech nuts without slots, and really just about any brand is available that way. Most nuts that are pre-slotted, need the slots adjusted specifically to the fret height, as it is in essence fret #0. They are not pre-slotted to be play ready, but only to not have to space the slots manually. No good luthier just installs one without considering the slot depth, and will tweak the slots. A string slot also needs to slope down on an angle toward the headstock just a tiny bit and sloppy work and unsteady hands can make for bad intonation if the string doesn't seat on the front edge of the nut, and can even cause a nut buzz if the slots are lower in the front. I have replaced and installed thousands of nuts by hand, I even hand make brass and stainless steel ones from raw bar stock. When cutting the fret slots to depth, the strings and good ears are the best measuring tools, and feeler gauges are great too! A human being cannot feel a difference of a few thousandths of an inch when playing, and even CNC machines wear and can give inconsistent results. Since the nut will wear faster than the frets from always having tension on them, they are normally slotted a little higher than the first fret to allow for the wear. Of course on cheep and DIY instruments the slots are often way too high, which messes with intonation, and playing comfort, and even sometimes to low creating fret buzz off the first fret, or dead notes. I never get complaints, and often do better than they came from the factory. Since he said it may need a slight fret level, and so the nut may be removed to do so (It makes it easier to do the leveling), and the string slots will need adjusting for the change in fret height. Also if you read what it says on their site, they are slotted to a specific string gauges, and so if you want to use heavier gauges they will need to be widened to accommodate the thicker strings. The same goes for pre-slotted nuts for the most part. Having them wider than the strings is not a problem, as the strings rest in the round bottom of the slot keeping them aligned on center, and there's plenty of string tension to keep them from moving laterally. I do make necks just as good/better from scratch, but they come at a higher price, and so for those who cannot afford it I recommend Warmoth. I started in 1979, Warmoth in 1980, and I was using carbon fiber reinforcements, two way truss rods and stainless steel frets before they were, but they came from the same "School" of lutherie in favoring better technology over tradition, and it was the "Superstrat" era of guitar building, with Grover jackson, Hamer, Steve Cline, Bill Bartolini, Floyd Rose and Gary Kahler... We all contributed and shared ideas and techniques and badgered Jesco to make SS frets, StuMac and others to sell carbon fiber rods... Finally, the nut material dos nothing at all to the tone of your guitar and it's absurd to think it does, but harder materials do help with sustain (Only on open notes) and don't wear out as fast. If you think you can hear "A world of difference" than look up how our hearing and sight really works, and how the brain fills in the blanks our ears and eyes miss, and than look up the psychology behind "The placebo effect", and why all of the people who do not understand the physics and engineering, especially in quantitative ways spread bullshit and influence each other, and therefore people believe in nonsense, and waste a lot of money on snake oil!
@@warmoth It seems working on compound radius fretboard are a challenge for the techs here in South Florida. Maybe a video on tips on fret leveling a compound radius fretboard could be on the to do list? :)
We've been building necks like you see here for a looong time, and we've always given the edge of the fretboard and the ends of the frets a certain amount of TLC as part of our process. However, I wouldn't say we "dress" the fret ends. That's something you do one fret at a time, whereas our processes are basically hitting them all at once....if that makes any sense.
@@warmoth Makes perfect sense. So, my question now is should someone buying a neck from Warmoth expect a neck without sharp fret ends? If I pick up the guitar by the neck, should the frets dig into my hands? When I am playing on the new neck, should I expect to feel the frets as I slide up the neck?
Our necks are ready to play right out of the box. There aren't going to be any sharp edges or other craziness. The ends of the frets and the edge of the fretboard will be smoothed, and the majority of players will rock them that way with no additional work....just like I do with mine.
@@randykelsoe7191 I can personally attest to the splendid quality of their fretwork. The only work that my neck required to make it absolutely perfect, was to tweak the nut slots. Otherwise I'd put my Warmoth neck up against any boutique builder in the business.
@@libertarious Bill, I agree with you, except my frets were sharp and painful. I'm not angry about it, because I learned a lot about fretwork by necessity. The strat neck I bought from Warmoth is totally awesome and after a good fret dressing, it's my favorite neck of all my guitars.
Very slow ca glue i bet. You can,t complain about costs ,qualty costs and though they had special power tools it was hand work all the way. Don,t like it?? Can,t afford it??? Learn to do it your self!!
I can confirm you can literally unbox and put on a body and play immediately. Very quality stuff, Warmoth!
I find these videos that show behind the scenes aspects of Warmoth so entertaining. In my mind, I see no equal to Warmoth.
These necks are state of the art, period.
I’ve used Warmoth necks for 18 years now and they completely outclass any necks I’ve used from other manufacturers.
I've had 3 or 4 necks, never needed not even a setup or leveling, great work from the get-go
You just got lucky tbh.
I LOVE factory videos! Keep them coming! Love all my Warmoth necks and bodies!
Can't wait to get my custom Warmoth neck! Pulled the trigger and ordered one with Stainless Steel frets because I was tired of my stainless steel strings busting up my nickle frets every 6 months.
Producing these videos is a good use of resources for Warmoth. I have never wanted to build a guitar from parts until I started seeing these videos. Now I'm very interested.
Warmoth neck is the best thing that happened to my fingers. Forever thank you guys!
Just bought my own warmoth an hour ago, very excited, this video gives me no doubt that I should have a quality product arriving.
watching warmoth on youtube is a different thing from just website browsing, i’ve been thinking of buying a neck , and body , now became more serious thanks for the channel
The attention you give to each of your parts is impressive. Makes me want to order.
did you ever?
Aaron you rock love these videos can't wait to build a new guitar now
I have 2 Warmoth basses and will eventually do a 3rd. They've gone together easily and required only a few things to be great, like chase the predrilled mounting holes with the pilot drill of my choice and fine dress the fret ends. Parts fit together great and no issues with intonation, etc. Their roasted neck are outstanding.
Thanks for these videos. We would love to see more about how you all work!
Hi Warmoth, It'd be great to see more of these style of videos, I love watching guitar building videos!
I just watched this again today, and it hit me, how exacting the the work you do on each neck is! With that level of attention to details, it would be no wonder your necks are so well done!
Never ever get rid of the turtle logo. Love it
He is here for the long haul! Here is his origin story: blog.warmoth.com/2016/04/14/origin-of-warmoth-turtle/
@@warmoth Very cool!
Not knowing the actual logo history till now, I often wondered if it was some sort of Greatful Dead "Terrapin Station" homage.
As a tech nerd, I'd love some insight regarding the fabrication evolution from pre to post CNC technology.
Just bought a neck from y'all and I love it! Definitely will buying another one!
Very informative as always. God bless.
Very nice, I had no idea each nut was milled specifically for a given neck, that's pretty awesome attention to detail!
Great workmanship!
I really enjoy these videos and can fully endorse the comment about the necks being player ready - I built a couple of Warmoth guitars and the necks just push fit perfectly into the neck pockets and apart from a truss rod tweak are perfect!
I can certainly attest to the play ability right out of the box. Though I live in Connecticut and the climate here is similar to that of Washington State. Took about a week to settle in. Not a bit of buzz. Nice, low action. Plays and feels great!
My Warmoth neck on my tele is the best thing that happen to my fingers since freshman year.
I do my fret job myself and build my own nuts, it's crucial to have some skills to get the best out of your Warmoth and make honor to the company hard work. Warmoth parts are easily on par with my Suhr/Tyler/TA/ESP Snapper (original series) or Xotic guitar, only my Marchione, because it's absolutely, totally hand made with wood scissors and hand plane by Stephen Marchione, feels different (not better, different). It's on what parts you pick and how/who do the extra little detail final job and assembling that will make your Warmoth, without a doubt, play on the playground of these high end brand (not the same, not better, just be on the same ground) i mentioned earlier, but with the pleasure of it being personal. Thank you Warmoth and happy 40th Anniversary !
Thanks what I'm looking for warmoth! Your getting closer to a sale.Now I have to decide on the wood.
I have spent endless hours on the internet looking for a guitar neck. I keep coming back to Warmoth. Plan on pulling the trigger soon.
Good stuff. Got 5 Warmoth necks, and they're great. I made the mistake of ordering one too wide, I hated it, but the fit and finish were simply perfect. You learn.
Would that be strat Modern Superwide?
I love mine.
What fret gauge did you get?
If you're looking to get rid of it, I might be interested...
Thanks for the video. If i might i would like to ask 2 questions about stainless steel when used with compound radius- 1.do you pre bend them for every particular fret? and 2. You use closest radius in fret press for particular fret? The reason i asked, particularly the first question, is i noticed that stainless frets once bent don't like to change radius and in compound radius frets are never "perfect" 12 or 14 but in between.
always have the best fret work..
My neck was pretty much ready to play other than some slight fretwork that didn't take long at all. Very happy with it.
the part where u actually measure the nut slot depth and cut the nut individually for every neck to attain the same final result for string depth just blew my mind. I always hate that all companies out there have different slot depths on every guitar.
"and then here at the GrInDeRrR" , , ,ahem! that sir, is a big ole' belt sander. xP
2:30 - Belt Sander.
Even Lockheed Martin uses those.
Real team work!
Very cool.
Hey dude! Has anyone ever told you that u look like Miles Kennedy ! Informative video as always 👍🤘🏼
Very interesting.
Now I know why Warmoth necks are so good.
Great work. Love these Vids!
Why doesn't Warmoth also offer a complete assembled guitar to the player's specs? Similar to how Kiesel does it. There are a few of us who would rather order everything and have it delivered as a finely finished guitar even if it would cost extra.
I like custom guitars. I have customed a few necks online and compared Warmoth to Musikart. I wish Warmoth made a 20" radius like Kiesel and other brands. I like the different neck profiles too 57V to Wizard or 59 etc
I have my first warmoth neck on the way. I hope it lives up to the hype.
Happy with quality?
Love these videos. Keep them coming!
Good stuff.😀
I like the fret department
I have a neck ordered, should be here in a couple weeks :)
Happy with quality?
@@joses.a.2 Yes, it was finished nicely and bolted right on. I ended up using locking tuners, I put the neck on an American Strat that I bought off of reverb, new with no neck from stratosphere.
@@mdwoods100 great, thanks for sharing
Didn't know nuts were cut like that!
my next neck purchase willl be "unfinished" - getting rid of the laquer isn't as easy as you say it is
I wish you guys stocked .090"-.055" SS fret wire...
Working at Warmoth would be my dream job
Have you ever thought of using as a tag line "Buy a Warmoth neck and you'll never have to fret??"
Hello there. I am trying to decide a fretwire for my build. I like tall frets and want to go with 6100ss. The build consists of an r3 floyd nut 12 inch radus neck and a carve top soloist body. I just want to know if you guys compensate for fret height when cutting floyd shelf slot. I dont want to have the guitar fretted with 6100ss and have the nut shelf cut for shorter frets and have the nut end up being too low. Please let me know. Thank you.
Yes, we do.
I have never had any buzzing in a Warmoth neck. I polish the frets for shine but that is it.. No sharp ends or wonking frets.
NOT playable right away. Fret ends are cut at a proper angle, but are left with very sharp edges that must be slightly rounded over. And mine buzzed everywhere out of the box, regardless of setup. Good necks, but absolutely require work before use.
I don’t know what all the numbers for the different fret sizes mean on the website. I am trying to figure it out.
This was another great video explaining in detail how Warmoth parts are made and assembled. And I think Aaron does a great job....But maybe it is time to use an animated Warmoth turtle like the Geico Gecko to do these videos. I thing the animated Warmoth turtle with a nice Aussie accent might be the perfect Warmoth spokesperson...err spokes reptile. :>) Thanks Aaron. PS I own 3 Warmoth necks and am very happy with all three. I don't like the feel of the standard Fender neck and being able to pick my own neck shape is a great help.
Only if the animated turtle doesn't take Aaron's place.
@@ravecaster yes I agree. As a matter of fact I've given this more thought and maybe instead of an animated turtle which would probably be very expensive to produce we'll just get Aaron a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle costume and he can do the videos in the turtle costume. Again with an Aussie accent.
Seriously though these videos are very helpful in showing how the various Warmoth parts are made. I never knew they used glue when they put in the frets.
Why not offer rolled edges similar to what Musikraft does?
Good question. I've held W necks in one hand and MK neck in the other (multiple times), and compared them. By default, our fretboard edges come softened, similar to what MK calls "light rolled". As you know, MK also offers "heavy rolled". They can do that because they only offer an oil finish. Warmoth offers hard finish, which makes doing heavy rolled edges a little more problematic. For example, where along the radius of the rolled edge would you end the hard finish, and how? Hope that explains it!
@@warmoth I dont quite follow. First of all, I’ve got a one piece maple Mk neck with heavy rolled edges, finished with the standard polyurethane finish. I suppose you first do the rolling of the edges and then just apply whatever finish afterwards..? Or am I missing something? Appreciate the response! 🤘❤️🤘
Can you make a video showcasing your purple finishes and differences between flake, candy, metallic?
Why? there's plenty of videos out there that do just that, especially on automotive painting, where most of those cool ideas in finishing come from in the first place. You may find techniques rarely seen on guitars that are wicked cool, but not necessarily easy to execute or get right🥵, and come at a high price🤑
@@Bob-of-Zoid drugs are bad
@@nofriendtojesus Failure to logic and think for yourself is bad, so what's your deal, and why talk shit instead of thanking me for the tip A-hole!
@@Bob-of-Zoid lmao 🤣
@@nofriendtojesus Go ahead, celebrate your idiocy? Here, have a participation trophy:
Trying to decide between these and Musikraft. I'm leaning more toward these but I'm not sure about the side adjustment.
The side adjustment is great. If you don't prefer it, Warmoth also makes two other kinds of traditional-style necks.
@@warmothThank you for responding. I was looking at the Slapshot and that is only available with it so one of the the Strats I would go with.
I love the side adjustment
I'm puzzled why Warmoth only offers two EVO sizes.
My neck was perfect. No fret work was needed.
Hallo sir.. Which fret type or series did you using on this guitar? jumbo or extra jumbo frets?
Does the process of measuring for, and cutting, the nut also apply if TUSQ XL nuts are selected for installation on a custom or showcase neck? Or are the pre-slotted nuts used.
He said "All our nuts". Also you can buy GraphTech nuts without slots, and really just about any brand is available that way. Most nuts that are pre-slotted, need the slots adjusted specifically to the fret height, as it is in essence fret #0. They are not pre-slotted to be play ready, but only to not have to space the slots manually. No good luthier just installs one without considering the slot depth, and will tweak the slots. A string slot also needs to slope down on an angle toward the headstock just a tiny bit and sloppy work and unsteady hands can make for bad intonation if the string doesn't seat on the front edge of the nut, and can even cause a nut buzz if the slots are lower in the front.
I have replaced and installed thousands of nuts by hand, I even hand make brass and stainless steel ones from raw bar stock. When cutting the fret slots to depth, the strings and good ears are the best measuring tools, and feeler gauges are great too! A human being cannot feel a difference of a few thousandths of an inch when playing, and even CNC machines wear and can give inconsistent results. Since the nut will wear faster than the frets from always having tension on them, they are normally slotted a little higher than the first fret to allow for the wear. Of course on cheep and DIY instruments the slots are often way too high, which messes with intonation, and playing comfort, and even sometimes to low creating fret buzz off the first fret, or dead notes. I never get complaints, and often do better than they came from the factory.
Since he said it may need a slight fret level, and so the nut may be removed to do so (It makes it easier to do the leveling), and the string slots will need adjusting for the change in fret height. Also if you read what it says on their site, they are slotted to a specific string gauges, and so if you want to use heavier gauges they will need to be widened to accommodate the thicker strings. The same goes for pre-slotted nuts for the most part. Having them wider than the strings is not a problem, as the strings rest in the round bottom of the slot keeping them aligned on center, and there's plenty of string tension to keep them from moving laterally.
I do make necks just as good/better from scratch, but they come at a higher price, and so for those who cannot afford it I recommend Warmoth. I started in 1979, Warmoth in 1980, and I was using carbon fiber reinforcements, two way truss rods and stainless steel frets before they were, but they came from the same "School" of lutherie in favoring better technology over tradition, and it was the "Superstrat" era of guitar building, with Grover jackson, Hamer, Steve Cline, Bill Bartolini, Floyd Rose and Gary Kahler... We all contributed and shared ideas and techniques and badgered Jesco to make SS frets, StuMac and others to sell carbon fiber rods...
Finally, the nut material dos nothing at all to the tone of your guitar and it's absurd to think it does, but harder materials do help with sustain (Only on open notes) and don't wear out as fast. If you think you can hear "A world of difference" than look up how our hearing and sight really works, and how the brain fills in the blanks our ears and eyes miss, and than look up the psychology behind "The placebo effect", and why all of the people who do not understand the physics and engineering, especially in quantitative ways spread bullshit and influence each other, and therefore people believe in nonsense, and waste a lot of money on snake oil!
Do you have a guide that shows where the radius changes on your compound radiused necks?
It's a perfectly gradual change all along the length of the neck.
@@warmoth It seems working on compound radius fretboard are a challenge for the techs here in South Florida. Maybe a video on tips on fret leveling a compound radius fretboard could be on the to do list? :)
Does Warmoth offer 22 fretted necks with a paddle headstock - so I can make my own designed headstock shape?
anyone got one they play better than a fender?
What kind of frets do you guys use ? Jescar ?
Yes. All our fret info is here: warmoth.com/guitar-neck-fret-options
When did you start this process of dressing the fret ends?
We've been building necks like you see here for a looong time, and we've always given the edge of the fretboard and the ends of the frets a certain amount of TLC as part of our process. However, I wouldn't say we "dress" the fret ends. That's something you do one fret at a time, whereas our processes are basically hitting them all at once....if that makes any sense.
@@warmoth Makes perfect sense. So, my question now is should someone buying a neck from Warmoth expect a neck without sharp fret ends? If I pick up the guitar by the neck, should the frets dig into my hands? When I am playing on the new neck, should I expect to feel the frets as I slide up the neck?
Our necks are ready to play right out of the box. There aren't going to be any sharp edges or other craziness. The ends of the frets and the edge of the fretboard will be smoothed, and the majority of players will rock them that way with no additional work....just like I do with mine.
@@randykelsoe7191 I can personally attest to the splendid quality of their fretwork. The only work that my neck required to make it absolutely perfect, was to tweak the nut slots. Otherwise I'd put my Warmoth neck up against any boutique builder in the business.
@@libertarious Bill, I agree with you, except my frets were sharp and painful. I'm not angry about it, because I learned a lot about fretwork by necessity. The strat neck I bought from Warmoth is totally awesome and after a good fret dressing, it's my favorite neck of all my guitars.
can you choose what string gauge you want the nut slots to be cut to?
Nope. That's up to whoever assembles the guitar.
What kind of glue do you use for the frets?
cyanoacrylite...super glue, basically.
whats the favorite size fretwire at Warmoth?
My personal favorite is 6150, and I am pretty sure that is our biggest seller.
Very slow ca glue i bet. You can,t complain about costs ,qualty costs and though they had special power tools it was hand work all the way. Don,t like it?? Can,t afford it??? Learn to do it your self!!
What glue do you guys use for the frets?
I'm going to guess superglue?