I’m building my first AR (AR-10 specifically). I came into this video confused about all these mounts with different MOA’s. I now know what it means, thanks to this video, and will remember this information for the rest of my life. So thank you Just wanted to let you know that I’m genuinely very grateful for this information. Whether you know it or not, you are positively impacting lives. Keep doing what you’re doing, you got a subscriber out of me
@@korcla5668 308 guys must be laughing at 6.5CM guys right now because you can barely find the stuff let alone primers and powder, meanwhile at my local BI-Mart 308 comes in pretty consistently now.
@@Iron_Road Love my 308 Rifles and 10000 rounds off it. Still my Tika tac tx2...in CM6.5 is soo good. Had my dreamload after 3 sessions. Starline LR with S&B and 44Hunter and 147ELD-M. My 223 loading is the Never ending story.
Informative optic consideration. Thank You for the comment, "Would I take the shot hunting?, Absolutely Not." Our new shooters and young people need to understand that there is a higher measure of efficacy applied when shooting to kill.
Thank you! I'm glad that point made it through. As rifle systems become easier to shoot accurately, I've seen an increase in wounded game in the field. It is our responsibility to promote not only responsible shooting practices, but responsible hunting practices as well.
I understand the "talking" and "regulations" ... specially in today's world where _virtue signaling_ and _politically correct_ language are being imposed upon all of us. Just as a reminder and also in order to keep us "sane", I just want to point out that either in the Amazon's jungle or Africa's savannas, where Indians and Natives alike have been hunting forever and a day ... hunting is far from optimal and animals do get hurt in pain 'till final kill. And that's how it is; there is NOTHING wrong with that. That's how it works in nature. [excellent video, btw]
I know, @@johnmccarthy6999, most hunters [myself included!] actually respect animals and do their absolute best to deliver a humane kill shot, BUT ... w/ so much BS these days such as Greta Thunberg and alike ... I am just trying not to be "limited" by them. 😏
@@renatosureal We can only fix the face in the mirror, and I still have a lot of work to do. Not that it always happens, but it is my goal when shooting targets to put it in the same hole. When I am hunting, my goal is to drop the game on impact, minimize damage and suffering of the take.
Good info. I have a 20 moa rail on my RPR. After I mechanically zeroed my scope, then zeroed my rifle at 100 yards, I gained an additional 5 mils or 17.5 moa in elevation.
This is an excellent video. I suggest you add the word "RAIL" in the title. I just learned more in 10 minutes than the hours spent looking for it in a book.
I fully understood the concept at the very end when he said, "You can DIAL it in for those yards." Dialing the turrets to center at different yardages is a newer concept to me. I am still using mill dots only. :)
Thanks for the information. I had just bought a couple sets of scope rings, but wondered beforehand about the difference between the 0 and the 20 MOA setups. Since my shooting will be limited to 300 yes or less, I'm glad I decided on a whim to get the 0 MOA rings. Appreciate the work you put into your videos.
With more people trying longer ranges with 22 LR being able to get more elevation quickly becomes important. Thank you for a clear video I can refer people to.
Oh my gosh I have been searching for this video for a long time and didn't know it. A beginner like me doesn't know what he doesn't know. Then I stumble across this video and so much more suddenly makes sense.
Great Video. Thanks for sharing the knowledge! Best video I have seen explaining 0 vs 20moa rail. Ive got a 65Moa adjustable scope with a 20moa rail. A 100yard 0 leaves me with 51 MOA to play with.
@@renatosureal the bullet drop compensation function of a mil dot or MOA scaled reticle is secondary to the scaled reticle’s range finding function. It is better when possible to aim from center of crosshair, dialing to distance, because it supports recognition of consistent sight alignment, as well as parallax error using the eye’s natural ability to balance and center things. This is important because sight misalignment error increases with distance. At any rate, this is my perspective from experience as a Military Rifle Instructor assisting the USAMU deliver SDM Training.
@@renatosureal. There is no ballistic computation needed for an understanding here. All that’s needed is a ballistics app’s trajectory calculation for particular bullet/velocity. For example my 77 grain .223 loading requires 48 MOA come-up (480 inches) from a 100 yard zero to hit 1000 yard target in standard atmospheric conditions according to my ballistics app. My scope has 110 MOA elevation which means if I can get a 100 yard zero at about the 55 MOA point I can adjust elevation to reach a 1000 yard target with perhaps 7 MOA, or 70 inches of extra elevation at hand. Interestingly enough, I might still be inclined to place scope on a 20 MOA base to avoid dialing to end of scope range, which could happen in cold weather with dense air.
Awseome video. I have been thinking about this for a while now and about how to get the most out of my equipment. But haven't understood the principles of what I was thinking. Thank you for connecting the dots for me!
Simple, if you can not get enough elevation from the sight for bullet path to intersect line of sight at target distance you will need a mount with some convergence to line of bore. Great video.
@@renatosurealIt’s not irrelevant because dialing to distance is always more precise than holding to distance, especially when wind is favored rather than dialed. At any rate, there’s typically no downside to a 20 MOA base unless it precludes a 100 yard zero. The bottom-line is a convergent scope base can help a shooter use a high magnification 1 inch scope for long range shooting, such as NRA Long-Range Competition, saving the shooter the expense of a 30mm scope.
+20 MOA is very useful if you are shooting subsonic out to 400 yards. While I don't hunt at that range, armed opponents won't like near misses at all. Especially if they can't determine the source. We have to be prepared, even for the less preferable of circumstances. My family matters. I expect yours does too. While many think being prepared is wrong, they are fools to think the "world" will save them. Police reaction time is over 15 minutes. Your family is dead, the criminals are gone, and the Police say "damn! If we could have been 5 minutes earlier". I don't know about you, but $50K a year to have your own cop at home is a little much on my budget. So my "Duplicity" is a rifle that can do both well, Super, and Subsonic. Two cartridges, one mag, one rifle.
A minute of angle is 1/60th of a degree and there are 360 degrees in a circle. A very minute separation whereby, at 100 yards the separation is a only 1/4". At 50 yards it's 1/8" and at 25 yards it's 1/16". At 25 yards it takes 4 clicks on turrets to move your point of impact 1/4" or 16 clicks to move 1". 20 MOA = 1.25 ", 20 clicks at 25 yards.
Is the determination of which MOA (height) rail to use based only on whether you intend to shoot primarily between 0 - 500 yards (e.g., 0 MOA rail), or whether you intend to shoot primarily between 501-1000 yards (e.g, 20 MOA rail)? I certainly know that shooting beyond 1000 yards would generally be the same as the rail for the 501-1000 yards. I am just using 1000 yards for simplicity. Or, is it also determined by the dimensions of your riflescope? Are there other factors to consider? For example, I have a Weatherby Model 307 in 7mm PRC with a Vortex Viper PST Gen II 5-25 x 50 with a 30 mm tube. I intend to use the rifle for hunting between 200 - 600 yards, and long-range shooting out to 800 yards. The rifle comes with a PEAK 44, 20 MOA pic rail. Would using the 20 MOA pic rail be the best rail height for my intended shooting?
The base you choose is based on your optic and range you would like to shoot. Apply the formulas in the video to your set up and see which mount is needed. My 28 Nosler has a 40 MOA base under the scope because that was what was needed for the intended use of that particular rifle. Cheers!
I wished I would've done some research before buying a scope mount for my long range scope. I knew 20MOA would allow for more range but I didn't know it would interfere with a 100y zero. I have two 1-6 scopes on 20 MOA mounts and I never had an issue with zeroing until I got a long range scope. I wasted around 30rnds of 6.5 grendel before I realized I was hitting super high and I couldn't dial the elevation turret down any more.
I have a 450 bushmaster with a leupold 3x9x40 vex freedom cds scope sighted in at 50 yards working up to a 100 yard zero as a base for hunting at 50 yards I am almost maxed out my elevation and the only remedy I could come up with is using a 20 moa base currently using a zero base
When your scope has a 30mm tube or larger you have more MOA elevation than a 1" tube. Some scopes have tubes larger than 30mm so you'll have more elevation to work with. The challenge is buying scope rings. The gun store where I used to work had rings on hand for 30mm tubes. Rings for tubes larger than 30mm had to be ordered with an unknown delivery date. So before you drop coin on a scope with a larger tube order your scope and rings at the same time.
I strongly recommend that ammo and bullet manufacturers will post maximum ethical range(MER) to their projectiles. There are 2 many fools in the woods who don’t get the meaning of a true hunting round. MER is calculated by bullet speed , energy and the projectiles hunting performance factor. We all know about ballistic coefficiency and sectional density. Just my 5 cents
Great vid. Been seeing alot of vids on long range hunting with the 6.5 creedmore but very little on terminal ballistics on that round at 1000 yards where 20 extra moa would be needed in a lower end scope. No energy or speed at that range so no need for it unless just target shooting or small game. Now if you were talking 300 win, ultra, 338, 264 win mag or even a 6.5x284 I think it would be leading people down the right path. Liked the video just bad example with 6.5 creedmore and 143 grn hunting bullet balistic wise doesn't have it to need the extra moa
We used 6.5CM simply because it is a round that most people are familiar with right now. As I say in the video, I would never use it hunting at that range. This video was about optic mounts so ballistics of different calibers were not a consideration here. I appreciate the feedback for future video ideas!
@@mountaintacticalcompany Its a good video. You explained it better than I could. Going to have my 15 year old watch it. Tried to explain it to him the other day when he was wanting to change out his stock rail on his new savage 338 lapua. His HD Razor has 135 moa, and until he can shoot to the bottom 10 of that, there's no need for him to swap it out. Better now to spend that money on brass and powder. Thanks again
I like to talk up the 6.5 Swede, being that it is so much a part of Scandinavian shooting and history, as well as a great round in its own right. I'll bring up that it has been used to kill more moose there than all other cartridges combined, and has great versatility, but one day you start regretting saying such things because people get idiot ideas like using a 6.5 CM to take pot shots at animals at 600 yards, where decreasing terminal performance for all bullets is a major issue, along with shot placement. So, I'll bring up the caveats to my 6.5 Swede moose killing point. The one most people mention is that the moose up in the Norse lands are smaller than their North American counterparts. The point I like to draw out is that a the 6.5 Swede does a great job on bigger animals because they use heavy weight bullets with big boi sectional density, like the Norma 156 grain Oryx, or 160 grain old fashioned round nose, not lighter weight 140 grain bullets. In a caliber small as .264, the lack of objective weight, that sectional density and extra weight are huge differences. The shapes and weight of bullet for hunting may not be the kinds you want to use long range anyhow. Second, those Scandinavians take great pride in marksmanship, yet a lot of those moose kills are at closer ranges from old hunting spots in the woods, not half a mile sniper shots. So, as far as hunting goes, the 6.5mm 0.264 inch is a capable killer, even on larger game, so long as you keep your distance short, your aim true, and the proper heavy bullet of good construct. However, no matter how great a long range match cartridge it is, it is a poor choice for long range hunting. Punching paper smaller may do as well, but in lethality sometimes there is no replacement for weight and size.
2:45 Why do we need 20, 30, 40 MOA mounts? Because rifle and ammunition has expanded our reach with reliability & consistency. And out-paced the design and ability of the scope's adjustment.
Dude. It finally makes sense. Thanks for a nonsense, none mathematical easy to understand approach to this that everyone want to make a scientific project out of it. Thanks.
Merci beaucoup du Québec. Explication très clair même si je ne comprend pas trop l'anglais. I have a question. If I have a 20 MOA on my gun can it still adjust to 100 yards and remain accurate? Thanks a lot!
@@chaboi7 honestly, that's like asking what underwear is most comfortable. Haha! There are so many optics available for every type of shooting. When I buy a scope, first I decide what type of shooting I plan to use it for, then find the best optic in that category.
@@mountaintacticalcompany why do we not set sights parallel to barrel? If you know the sight/optic is X" above the bore, doesn't that simplify the math for drop?
60Ometers or less than you don't need, rectiles give you +10moa helping lines. I have no problems with my until 850M without. On very hot day i can dial in to 1100yards.
He did say exactly that. Just in a much more informed way for people that would search this video. Glad he added all the detail. Be sure and give us the link to your 3 second video explaining this the short way.
If I understand this correctly, does this mean that 20 MOA mounts are only relevant if you dial in the elevation adjustment? As opposed to using e.g. a mil-dot reticle for holdover?
Jason, I bought a Vortex Viper 6.5-20X50 PA Matt Rifle scope Adjustment Click Value 0.25 MOA Adjustment Range 68 MOA W/E Travel At 100 YDS 65 MOA Also, just bought a 20 MOA rail to go under it. Did I waste my money ? Plan on trying to shoot 1000 1200 1500 and 1750 distances. The scope and rail may go back and forth between a 28" barrel on my 6.5 Grendel and my 20" barrel on my 6.5 Creedmore. Both rifles are side eject AR rifles. ( AR-15 and AR-10 ) Thanks for any help you can give me :-)
Do I need to make an adjustment in the data in my calculator to compensate for the 20 MOA mount ? Does this change the holdover data? How does this affect the holdover points on the retical ?
In all seriousness, this is an old video before we purchased solid audio equipment. We are a machine shop first, making products for the industry. RUclips doesn’t pay gun guys.
So, if I understand this correctly. If you have a new scope/rifle with a 20 moa rail attached, the first thing you do, even before boresighting etc, is to click down the scope by 20 moa/5.8mil to adjust for having the 20 moa rail attached?And only then you go ahead and boresight and zero your rifle, which of course could mean you may have to further fine tune up/down depending on scope height etc. Is this correct? (assuming you have mounted everything else correctly etc etc) I know some of you say you should always boresight first thing, but I dont understand this because you already know that you are "wrong" by 20 moa so why not adjust for that first thing? That should at least make your initial settings closer to the correct settings? Please comment
Great question. Whether it will perform or not will be more a function of your optic than the rail. Personally, I would go with a 0 MOA rail for 100 yard shooting just in case my optic does not have the adjustment necessary to compensate for that close of a target.
Didn’t even know this was a thing. Glad it showed up in my feed, question, would I have to now worry about my scope height after putting the mounts on if I did this conversion?
What if I have a scope with 110 MOA adjustment? Would a 40 MOA rail be the acceptable choice, or would the scope eye placement be so high above the comb of the stock that I could not get a cheek weld?
So if at zero MOA the barrel and line of sight are parallel, then how do you get the bullet to impact where you are aiming ? Especially when as soon as then bullet leaves the muzzle gravity starts over and the bullet falls towards the earth? Is it because your line of sight is flat and the barrel is actually pointed slightly up to compensate for this?
Great observation! This video is about barrel-sight relationship. You are referring to bullet trajectory and external ballistics. We could definitely do a video on external ballistics if you think it would be educational
Huh? I think he said that if you have a scope set for 0 MOA and a 0 MOA mount your scope is parallel to your barrel line of sight. And I think that is correct. But what that means is YOU WILL NEVER GET A ZERO CROSSING AT 100 YARDS, OR ANYWHERE ELSE. You must always account for the offset of the scope height above the barrel. Mine is 2.1 inches so at 100 yards that is at least 2 MOA down plus whatever ballistic drop their is at 100 yards. I sight mine in to be 2.3 inches high at 100 yards to give a zero crossing near 250 yards. I know my mount is definitely not a 0 MOA mount but don't know exactly what it is. All I know is it works.
Is the inner part of a scope really 0 MOA or did it look slightly downwards to cross the path of the bullit? If it is really 0 MOA it will eat up some MOA of your adjustment.
Your presentation was quite clear and helpful. Your drawings helped make the point and were easy to understand. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge.
So when shooting .338 Lapua while using a 5-50x56 scope, I would get the most out of my scope, rifle and ammo, by utilizing a 20 MOA for long range shooting?
that was really interesting, thanks ! what is the dividing line for choosing a zero MOA and 20 MOA scope mount . would it be say shooting beyond 500 or 600 yards out ? I should add I shoot with a 30-06
The dividing line is 1340 fps bullet speed. I just saved u $53 on Litz DVD, As the bullet slows down, gravity, drag, BC,... starts to work on the drop and math can't predict it.
A question from the admin or any 1 on this channel is if a sope has 120 moa's top to bottom then some experts says that to utilize all moa's u must have a 60 moa base So now how to find in millimeter or in inches that my scope base has 60 moa's Those experts also says that from rifle top (where the rail, ring base then rings r attached for scope) to the scope base u must have at least 1.5 inches gap or distance or height Any video reference or answer here
So if I understand this correctly, the purpose of the 20 moa rail is to be able to keep the crosshairs dead center on the target at longer ranges, essentially compensating for the bullet drop...correct?
I need help. I have a HOWA model 1500 in 25/06 So I used to have a Burris 10x40 scope and bought a Swarovski z5i 2.4-12x50 I used the same scope rings and the front of the scope is barely not touching the barrel. You can barely fit a piece of paper between the scope and barrel. So I sighted in at 100 had to move my up and down alot downwars when I went to sight in at 200-300-400 I ran out adjustment between the 200&300 . Do I need a 20moa rail with medium rings or should I get a 0 moa rail with high rings? Thank you
@@mountaintacticalcompany ugh....I ordered the 0 moa last night.... I mean the most I'll shoot is 300 maybe 400 yards....do you think the 0 will be ok? Thank you for the reply
Dear sir . I just installed 20 moa base. But the problem is i cant get 25 yard zero .i mean there is no click left on my scope . Could you please tell me the solution ? Im going to change my scooe ring from medium to low . Dont know will this help or no
First I freely admit that I am a beginner when it comes to scope mounting. I’ve got a Tippmann Arms M4 22 Elite rifle that I intend to mount a Hawke 3-9X40 IR with adjustable parallax scope. I purchased a Warne QD cantilever 1” mount but feel like I need more height. The majority of my use will be at an indoor range.. so 25 yards.. but when I get to an outdoor range I’d like to be able to reach out to 100 to 150 yards.. My scope has 100 MOA for both elevation and windage. My rifle has a full length Picatinny rail and the Warne mount has a center point height of 1.43 inches.. Do I need any additional height to be able to reach out to 150 yards? I realize that my scope isn’t ideal for that distance but my use like this will be rare as compared to 25 to 100 yards.. 90% of use will be indoor at 25 yards. The reason I got a QD scope mount is because the rifle comes equipped wi some high quality vip up sights that I’ll use fro time to time. I may even try “lobbing” some shots in with the iron sights at even longer distances. Please advise.
Need some help on this topic as I order some parts for my rifle.Rifle: Rem 700 Magpul .308 5R 22" BarrelScope: Nikon P-223 3-9x40 (I know, this is an AR platform scope)Max Internal Adjustment: 80 MOAUse: Range I'm looking into getting an EGW Picatinny Rail. I'm starting to understand this MOA topic more and more. However here is my question: I plan to use the above gear together for the time being due to cost and what I have at hand, as an intermediate shooter I only have use for this build at the range. 100-300 yards will be my primary shooting distance. Eventually I would like to take it out to 1000 yards, but with a different set up. Since I am under 300 yards, with the scope I have, should I get a 0 moa or 20 moa rail?
Leroy Anthony Duran Jr For your situation it probably wouldn't matter. The 20 MOA would give you flexibility in the future if you choose to shoot farther, but at 300 yards, a 0 MOA rail would not be a handicap. Hopefully this helps.
@@khatuntsovmikhail6223 When would it be a bad idea? As long as you have the adjustment, and it's not at the end of the travel, a 0° have zero advantage.
Have a Nighforce SHV with 100 MOA mounted on a 20 MOA base zeroed at 100 mtrs. Went shooting on weekend at 1200 mtr targets. Ballistics said I needed about 62.7 MOA to be on centre of tgt. Could only dial 54 MOA WTF. Have I missed something as I assumed I had about 70 MOA of adjustment. On a side note I got on with 50 MOA wound out and 5 MOA adjustment using hash marks in scope. Re checked zero at 100 after shoot. Wound up 58 MOA and down 37.5 MOA. Thats not a 100 MOA scope.
For myself, I have purchased a Ruger Rimfire Precision, (don’t laugh, too expensive to shoot my 300 WinMag if I can find the ammo) in .17HMR. I was planning on a 50 yd zero but looking to go out to 300yds. Would a 20 moa be ok or a 30 moa?
There is nothing to be embarrassed about! Most shooters who want to maximize their range time without spending a ton of money buy a rimfire to mimic their primary centerfire rifle. What rail you need is a function of the scope, as stated in the video. Use the calculations in the video to figure out what angle your mount should be. Cheers!
@Miles Maillet sweet! Very flat shooting but the main thing, just like shooting a 22, it’s cheap to run. Before the ammo price jump, I purchased every box I could find. At about 5k now, but that gives me the ability to spend a day at the range and go thru 200-300 and have fun. I mean, 50 round boxes with an average cost of $12.00, that’s cheap fun!!!!
Thank you for this! I am not fully getting it tho because my application is for a .22. I’ve bought a little Bergara BMR - it comes with a 30MOA Rail. I’m confused if this is for long range or short. I want to shoot at a max of 100yards. I’ll be able to shoot 25-30 yards as the squirrels and pests can get that close. Wondering if I’ll need to switch out the rail. If you could help with that. Also my scope will be a low power Leupold 2-7x33 Rimfire if that helps. Thank you!
That is definitely a long range rail set up. That said, if you can still zero the rifle at 50 yards, I would not change a thing. If you cannot get a 50 yard zero, then a 0 MOA rail would work perfect for you. Cheers!
@@mountaintacticalcompany thank you for this reply! I don’t quite understand why they went this route as it’s a great light hunting rifle and they make other .22 rifles for that long range application. No one makes rails except for one company and they only provide a 15MOA But it’s in the right direction.
Will a 20MOA rail effect closer ranges for hunting there's a rifle im looking at from the factory it comes with a 20MOA rail or should I take it off to put 0 MOA scope mounts on for hunting
Over 90% of the time, you'll be fine at closer ranges. Most calibers only drop an inch or two between 100 and 200 yards. A deer won't notice the difference. Haha!
Nice job. 300 PRC via Beraga B14. GPO German Precision Optics GPOTAC 6x 4.5-27x50i FFP - LR PRO #RS670. 34 mm tube. Target and hunt. Mil spec scope. Hence not measuring in MOA. Do I go with 20 MOA rail or standard mounts since I have 115 inches ? Think 20 MOA rail right? Any direction on ring height with 20 MOA rail?
Since this is a dedicated long range set up, I would use the highest MOA angled mount (i.e. 40 MOA+) and use whatever mounts are comfortable for you. You do not want to put tension on the rifle system by contorting yourself to get a sight picture. That's a great set up! You'll be amazed at how far you will be able to shoot it accurately with practice.
It would depend on caliber, firearm, intended use, etc. You can use the data provided and apply it to your specific system to determine what you want to do.
I'm a beginner in long distance shooting. I own a 6.5 Creedmoor, and I have a SWFA SS 10x42 Tactical 30mm scope. The specifications for the scope state total elevation adjustment is 120 MOA and total windage adjustment is 120 MOA. Should I also use a 20 MOA rail?
I’m building my first AR (AR-10 specifically). I came into this video confused about all these mounts with different MOA’s. I now know what it means, thanks to this video, and will remember this information for the rest of my life. So thank you
Just wanted to let you know that I’m genuinely very grateful for this information. Whether you know it or not, you are positively impacting lives. Keep doing what you’re doing, you got a subscriber out of me
Thank you for the very kind words. I am grateful this information was useful for you. Cheers!
"This ammo is not that expensive"...said the guy from 2017.
No kidding, right? 🤣
$3 a round for 6.5 Creedmoor! 🤣
@@korcla5668 308 guys must be laughing at 6.5CM guys right now because you can barely find the stuff let alone primers and powder, meanwhile at my local BI-Mart 308 comes in pretty consistently now.
@@Iron_Road Love my 308 Rifles and 10000 rounds off it. Still my Tika tac tx2...in CM6.5 is soo good. Had my dreamload after 3 sessions. Starline LR with S&B and 44Hunter and 147ELD-M. My 223 loading is the Never ending story.
Aint he funny 😆 🤣 😄
This was extremely informative and helpful for a new rifle owner, thanks a ton
Great! Welcome to the club!
Informative optic consideration. Thank You for the comment, "Would I take the shot hunting?, Absolutely Not." Our new shooters and young people need to understand that there is a higher measure of efficacy applied when shooting to kill.
Thank you! I'm glad that point made it through. As rifle systems become easier to shoot accurately, I've seen an increase in wounded game in the field.
It is our responsibility to promote not only responsible shooting practices, but responsible hunting practices as well.
I understand the "talking" and "regulations" ... specially in today's world where _virtue signaling_ and _politically correct_ language are being imposed upon all of us. Just as a reminder and also in order to keep us "sane", I just want to point out that either in the Amazon's jungle or Africa's savannas, where Indians and Natives alike have been hunting forever and a day ... hunting is far from optimal and animals do get hurt in pain 'till final kill. And that's how it is; there is NOTHING wrong with that. That's how it works in nature. [excellent video, btw]
@@renatosureal Everything is relative.
I know, @@johnmccarthy6999, most hunters [myself included!] actually respect animals and do their absolute best to deliver a humane kill shot, BUT ... w/ so much BS these days such as Greta Thunberg and alike ... I am just trying not to be "limited" by them. 😏
@@renatosureal We can only fix the face in the mirror, and I still have a lot of work to do. Not that it always happens, but it is my goal when shooting targets to put it in the same hole. When I am hunting, my goal is to drop the game on impact, minimize damage and suffering of the take.
I have watched 10 videos in RUclips about 0 moa vs 20 moa none of them makes sense. Thanks for making this video you have explained it perfectly.
Thank you for the feedback. I am happy you found our channel!
Good info. I have a 20 moa rail on my RPR. After I mechanically zeroed my scope, then zeroed my rifle at 100 yards, I gained an additional 5 mils or 17.5 moa in elevation.
This is an excellent video. I suggest you add the word "RAIL" in the title. I just learned more in 10 minutes than the hours spent looking for it in a book.
That's great feedback. Thank you!
I fully understood the concept at the very end when he said, "You can DIAL it in for those yards."
Dialing the turrets to center at different yardages is a newer concept to me. I am still using mill dots only. :)
That's a great skill to have when you need to shoot fast. Cheers!
Exactly ! In real life, real combat included, not hollywood-style movies and such... *mildots* are used.
Great video, I guess that lots of guys will have easier times on deciding on which rail to put on the scope...
Thanks for the information. I had just bought a couple sets of scope rings, but wondered beforehand about the difference between the 0 and the 20 MOA setups. Since my shooting will be limited to 300 yes or less, I'm glad I decided on a whim to get the 0 MOA rings. Appreciate the work you put into your videos.
Sounds like you made a good decision!
With more people trying longer ranges with 22 LR being able to get more elevation quickly becomes important. Thank you for a clear video I can refer people to.
Oh my gosh I have been searching for this video for a long time and didn't know it. A beginner like me doesn't know what he doesn't know. Then I stumble across this video and so much more suddenly makes sense.
That's great!
The pictures did help a lot.
The video I never knew I needed. Makes shopping for a new optic easy. Thank you!
You are welcome!
Great Video. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
Best video I have seen explaining 0 vs 20moa rail.
Ive got a 65Moa adjustable scope with a 20moa rail. A 100yard 0 leaves me with 51 MOA to play with.
51moa to play with is 125inches dialup so you can shoot 1500m with the 6,5cm. 147eld-m at 840m/s
You don't need a canted picatinny mount if your scope has mildots; old school that never fails.
@@marcrobert2603 share the equation, pls.
@@renatosureal the bullet drop compensation function of a mil dot or MOA scaled reticle is secondary to the scaled reticle’s range finding function. It is better when possible to aim from center of crosshair, dialing to distance, because it supports recognition of consistent sight alignment, as well as parallax error using the eye’s natural ability to balance and center things. This is important because sight misalignment error increases with distance. At any rate, this is my perspective from experience as a Military Rifle Instructor assisting the USAMU deliver SDM Training.
@@renatosureal. There is no ballistic computation needed for an understanding here. All that’s needed is a ballistics app’s trajectory calculation for particular bullet/velocity. For example my 77 grain .223 loading requires 48 MOA come-up (480 inches) from a 100 yard zero to hit 1000 yard target in standard atmospheric conditions according to my ballistics app. My scope has 110 MOA elevation which means if I can get a 100 yard zero at about the 55 MOA point I can adjust elevation to reach a 1000 yard target with perhaps 7 MOA, or 70 inches of extra elevation at hand. Interestingly enough, I might still be inclined to place scope on a 20 MOA base to avoid dialing to end of scope range, which could happen in cold weather with dense air.
Outstanding explanation! I'm looking to get 1800 yards out of my 300 Win Mag. Going to need that 20 MOA.
MAny 59s come with much higher MOA mounts. 30 or more.
I can't express how much I appreciate you breaking this down Barney style for me😂. Thank you
You are welcome!
Awseome video. I have been thinking about this for a while now and about how to get the most out of my equipment. But haven't understood the principles of what I was thinking. Thank you for connecting the dots for me!
You are very welcome!
Thanks for the video! The drawings helped a lot, someone did an excellent job of drawing!
Thank you!
Simple, if you can not get enough elevation from the sight for bullet path to intersect line of sight at target distance you will need a mount with some convergence to line of bore. Great video.
if you have mill dots in the sight ... all of this conversation becomes IRRELEVANT
@@renatosurealIt’s not irrelevant because dialing to distance is always more precise than holding to distance, especially when wind is favored rather than dialed. At any rate, there’s typically no downside to a 20 MOA base unless it precludes a 100 yard zero. The bottom-line is a convergent scope base can help a shooter use a high magnification 1 inch scope for long range shooting, such as NRA Long-Range Competition, saving the shooter the expense of a 30mm scope.
One of the best video's on this subject.
Thank you!
Oh I get it 😊thx this is very helpful and useful!! Much appreciate you taking your time on this video,
You are welcome!
Best explanation on RUclips that I have seen...
Thank you!
That was informative & well presented. Thank you!
You are welcome. Thank you for the feedback!
+20 MOA is very useful if you are shooting subsonic out to 400 yards. While I don't hunt at that range, armed opponents won't like near misses at all. Especially if they can't determine the source. We have to be prepared, even for the less preferable of circumstances. My family matters. I expect yours does too. While many think being prepared is wrong, they are fools to think the "world" will save them. Police reaction time is over 15 minutes. Your family is dead, the criminals are gone, and the Police say "damn! If we could have been 5 minutes earlier". I don't know about you, but $50K a year to have your own cop at home is a little much on my budget. So my "Duplicity" is a rifle that can do both well, Super, and Subsonic. Two cartridges, one mag, one rifle.
A minute of angle is 1/60th of a degree and there are 360 degrees in a circle. A very minute separation whereby, at 100 yards the separation is a only 1/4". At 50 yards it's 1/8" and at 25 yards it's 1/16".
At 25 yards it takes 4 clicks on turrets to move your point of impact 1/4" or 16 clicks to move 1".
20 MOA = 1.25 ", 20 clicks at 25 yards.
Finally someone explained it in simple English
Is the determination of which MOA (height) rail to use based only on whether you intend to shoot primarily between 0 - 500 yards (e.g., 0 MOA rail), or whether you intend to shoot primarily between 501-1000 yards (e.g, 20 MOA rail)? I certainly know that shooting beyond 1000 yards would generally be the same as the rail for the 501-1000 yards. I am just using 1000 yards for simplicity. Or, is it also determined by the dimensions of your riflescope? Are there other factors to consider? For example, I have a Weatherby Model 307 in 7mm PRC with a Vortex Viper PST Gen II 5-25 x 50 with a 30 mm tube. I intend to use the rifle for hunting between 200 - 600 yards, and long-range shooting out to 800 yards. The rifle comes with a PEAK 44, 20 MOA pic rail. Would using the 20 MOA pic rail be the best rail height for my intended shooting?
The base you choose is based on your optic and range you would like to shoot. Apply the formulas in the video to your set up and see which mount is needed. My 28 Nosler has a 40 MOA base under the scope because that was what was needed for the intended use of that particular rifle. Cheers!
Great video. Very informative. I walked into this video thinking it wouldn't be helpful, boy was I wrong! Thanks!
I wished I would've done some research before buying a scope mount for my long range scope. I knew 20MOA would allow for more range but I didn't know it would interfere with a 100y zero. I have two 1-6 scopes on 20 MOA mounts and I never had an issue with zeroing until I got a long range scope. I wasted around 30rnds of 6.5 grendel before I realized I was hitting super high and I couldn't dial the elevation turret down any more.
Excellent description thanks .
You are welcome!
Solid description of MOA and how to get the most out of your scope.
This was an excellent video. Thank you for explaining.
Thanks for watching!
I have a 450 bushmaster with a leupold 3x9x40 vex freedom cds scope sighted in at 50 yards working up to a 100 yard zero as a base for hunting at 50 yards I am almost maxed out my elevation and the only remedy I could come up with is using a 20 moa base currently using a zero base
Sounds like you're on the right track!
I find the center of scope adjustment then drop down a bout a third and shim the scope to to be on vertical zero.
When your scope has a 30mm tube or larger you have more MOA elevation than a 1" tube. Some scopes have tubes larger than 30mm so you'll have more elevation to work with. The challenge is buying scope rings. The gun store where I used to work had rings on hand for 30mm tubes. Rings for tubes larger than 30mm had to be ordered with an unknown delivery date.
So before you drop coin on a scope with a larger tube order your scope and rings at the same time.
I strongly recommend that ammo and bullet manufacturers will post maximum ethical range(MER) to their projectiles. There are 2 many fools in the woods who don’t get the meaning of a true hunting round. MER is calculated by bullet speed , energy and the projectiles hunting performance factor. We all know about ballistic coefficiency and sectional density. Just my 5 cents
100%
63,000+ views and 651 likes!!? Way to go Gestapo! I mean GOOGLE.
Great video and simple explanation 👍
Thanks!
Understood now, thanks brother.
do you recomend someone getting a 0 or 20 moa scope mount for an AR15?
Great vid. Been seeing alot of vids on long range hunting with the 6.5 creedmore but very little on terminal ballistics on that round at 1000 yards where 20 extra moa would be needed in a lower end scope. No energy or speed at that range so no need for it unless just target shooting or small game. Now if you were talking 300 win, ultra, 338, 264 win mag or even a 6.5x284 I think it would be leading people down the right path. Liked the video just bad example with 6.5 creedmore and 143 grn hunting bullet balistic wise doesn't have it to need the extra moa
We used 6.5CM simply because it is a round that most people are familiar with right now. As I say in the video, I would never use it hunting at that range.
This video was about optic mounts so ballistics of different calibers were not a consideration here.
I appreciate the feedback for future video ideas!
@@mountaintacticalcompany Its a good video. You explained it better than I could. Going to have my 15 year old watch it. Tried to explain it to him the other day when he was wanting to change out his stock rail on his new savage 338 lapua. His HD Razor has 135 moa, and until he can shoot to the bottom 10 of that, there's no need for him to swap it out. Better now to spend that money on brass and powder. Thanks again
@@pcjpcj4070 he's going to need lots of money for powder with that bad boy! Haha!
I like to talk up the 6.5 Swede, being that it is so much a part of Scandinavian shooting and history, as well as a great round in its own right. I'll bring up that it has been used to kill more moose there than all other cartridges combined, and has great versatility, but one day you start regretting saying such things because people get idiot ideas like using a 6.5 CM to take pot shots at animals at 600 yards, where decreasing terminal performance for all bullets is a major issue, along with shot placement.
So, I'll bring up the caveats to my 6.5 Swede moose killing point. The one most people mention is that the moose up in the Norse lands are smaller than their North American counterparts. The point I like to draw out is that a the 6.5 Swede does a great job on bigger animals because they use heavy weight bullets with big boi sectional density, like the Norma 156 grain Oryx, or 160 grain old fashioned round nose, not lighter weight 140 grain bullets. In a caliber small as .264, the lack of objective weight, that sectional density and extra weight are huge differences. The shapes and weight of bullet for hunting may not be the kinds you want to use long range anyhow. Second, those Scandinavians take great pride in marksmanship, yet a lot of those moose kills are at closer ranges from old hunting spots in the woods, not half a mile sniper shots.
So, as far as hunting goes, the 6.5mm 0.264 inch is a capable killer, even on larger game, so long as you keep your distance short, your aim true, and the proper heavy bullet of good construct. However, no matter how great a long range match cartridge it is, it is a poor choice for long range hunting. Punching paper smaller may do as well, but in lethality sometimes there is no replacement for weight and size.
Probably the best video explaining this concept 👍🏻
Thank you! I'm glad it makes sense
2:45
Why do we need 20, 30, 40 MOA mounts?
Because rifle and ammunition has expanded our reach with reliability & consistency. And out-paced the design and ability of the scope's adjustment.
Dude. It finally makes sense. Thanks for a nonsense, none mathematical easy to understand approach to this that everyone want to make a scientific project out of it. Thanks.
Awesome!!!
Great video! I needed that! God bless!
Merci beaucoup du Québec. Explication très clair même si je ne comprend pas trop l'anglais. I have a question. If I have a 20 MOA on my gun can it still adjust to 100 yards and remain accurate? Thanks a lot!
As long as you have enough adjustability in your scope, you are good to go!
So I understand that it is a yes. Even with a 20 moa we can have precision shots at 100 yards. Tank you!
You’re welcome!
What I learned today is that I don't want or need a 20 MOA mount.
Gillan Laureth of Seles That's great! Most people just buy and don't understand that they may not need what they are buying.
@@mountaintacticalcompany I just bought ruger mpr and it came with the 20 moa mount...what would be the best scope for it?
@@chaboi7 honestly, that's like asking what underwear is most comfortable. Haha!
There are so many optics available for every type of shooting.
When I buy a scope, first I decide what type of shooting I plan to use it for, then find the best optic in that category.
@@mountaintacticalcompany why do we not set sights parallel to barrel? If you know the sight/optic is X" above the bore, doesn't that simplify the math for drop?
60Ometers or less than you don't need, rectiles give you +10moa helping lines. I have no problems with my until 850M without.
On very hot day i can dial in to 1100yards.
Good explanation and you guys have great products.
Thank you!
You could just say a 20 moa rail gives your 20 moa more elevation rise for longer distance zeroing
That takes way too short a time. Way too simple.
Suburb A Knight I was thinking the same thing! He has to show us how smart he is!
20moa at each 100m/110Y, so 200moa at 1000m/1100Y. or plus 5meter or 5.5Yard. or something. But your bullet drop is extreme fast at those distances.
He did say exactly that. Just in a much more informed way for people that would search this video. Glad he added all the detail. Be sure and give us the link to your 3 second video explaining this the short way.
Finally, a video that explained it!
This is good stuff, thanks.
If I understand this correctly, does this mean that 20 MOA mounts are only relevant if you dial in the elevation adjustment? As opposed to using e.g. a mil-dot reticle for holdover?
I've never thought of it that way, but you are correct. If you are using hold overs, no need for a canted optic mount.
Jason, I bought a Vortex Viper 6.5-20X50 PA Matt Rifle scope
Adjustment Click Value 0.25 MOA
Adjustment Range 68 MOA
W/E Travel At 100 YDS 65 MOA
Also, just bought a 20 MOA rail to go under it. Did I waste my money ?
Plan on trying to shoot 1000 1200 1500 and 1750 distances. The scope and rail may go back and forth between a 28" barrel on my 6.5 Grendel and my 20" barrel on my 6.5 Creedmore. Both rifles are side eject AR rifles. ( AR-15 and AR-10 )
Thanks for any help you can give me :-)
Do I need to make an adjustment in the data in my calculator to compensate for the 20 MOA mount ? Does this change the holdover data? How does this affect the holdover points on the retical ?
Not at all. All your data will be the same one the optic is zeroed
Excellent video, thank you
Thank you!
Nice easy to understand explanation, shame about the sound quality or was that someone hoovering in the background?
We made those noises just to annoy you.
@@mountaintacticalcompany job done 👍
In all seriousness, this is an old video before we purchased solid audio equipment. We are a machine shop first, making products for the industry. RUclips doesn’t pay gun guys.
It's "compass rose" not "compass roads". (referring to the written transcript on tikka performance that has it wrong). :)
So, if I understand this correctly. If you have a new scope/rifle with a 20 moa rail attached, the first thing you do, even before boresighting etc, is to click down the scope by 20 moa/5.8mil to adjust for having the 20 moa rail attached?And only then you go ahead and boresight and zero your rifle, which of course could mean you may have to further fine tune up/down depending on scope height etc. Is this correct? (assuming you have mounted everything else correctly etc etc) I know some of you say you should always boresight first thing, but I dont understand this because you already know that you are "wrong" by 20 moa so why not adjust for that first thing? That should at least make your initial settings closer to the correct settings? Please comment
This is exactly what we do when mounting new scopes on 20 MOA rails
That little guy at the end scared me!
I primarily shoot targets at 100 yards. Will a 20 MOA rail not perform properly for this?
Great question. Whether it will perform or not will be more a function of your optic than the rail. Personally, I would go with a 0 MOA rail for 100 yard shooting just in case my optic does not have the adjustment necessary to compensate for that close of a target.
@@mountaintacticalcompany thanks for the reply
You are welcome!
The Hornady Precision Hunter 143 grain ELD-X in 6.5 Creedmoor is expensive.
I get that it makes demonstrating easier, but line of sight isn't parallel to the bore with a 0moa mount.
@@PhaggyJames yes, but that is not what this video is about.
Didn’t even know this was a thing. Glad it showed up in my feed, question, would I have to now worry about my scope height after putting the mounts on if I did this conversion?
So if I'm shooting 18" high at 100 yards, and out of down adjustment i need a +20 or +30 MOA rail and not a -20?
I don't know of anyone who sells a rail that points upward since that would be worse in all conditions. 20MOA would get you close to your zero.
What if I have a scope with 110 MOA adjustment? Would a 40 MOA rail be the acceptable choice, or would the scope eye placement be so high above the comb of the stock that I could not get a cheek weld?
You are exactly right. A 40 MOA would be the best solution. Depending on the rifle set up, you may need a cheek riser. But every set up is different.
So if at zero MOA the barrel and line of sight are parallel, then how do you get the bullet to impact where you are aiming ? Especially when as soon as then bullet leaves the muzzle gravity starts over and the bullet falls towards the earth? Is it because your line of sight is flat and the barrel is actually pointed slightly up to compensate for this?
Great observation! This video is about barrel-sight relationship. You are referring to bullet trajectory and external ballistics. We could definitely do a video on external ballistics if you think it would be educational
Huh? I think he said that if you have a scope set for 0 MOA and a 0 MOA mount your scope is parallel to your barrel line of sight. And I think that is correct. But what that means is YOU WILL NEVER GET A ZERO CROSSING AT 100 YARDS, OR ANYWHERE ELSE. You must always account for the offset of the scope height above the barrel. Mine is 2.1 inches so at 100 yards that is at least 2 MOA down plus whatever ballistic drop their is at 100 yards. I sight mine in to be 2.3 inches high at 100 yards to give a zero crossing near 250 yards. I know my mount is definitely not a 0 MOA mount but don't know exactly what it is. All I know is it works.
Great 6.5cm 0 vs 20moa rail example. Wondering how will that impact 50-300yards shooting?
I'm not exactly sure what you are asking but there are plenty of ballistic calculators that can give you specific trajectories based on your load
Is the inner part of a scope really 0 MOA or did it look slightly downwards to cross the path of the bullit? If it is really 0 MOA it will eat up some MOA of your adjustment.
Your presentation was quite clear and helpful. Your drawings helped make the point and were easy to understand. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge.
So when shooting .338 Lapua while using a 5-50x56 scope, I would get the most out of my scope, rifle and ammo, by utilizing a 20 MOA for long range shooting?
Or even a 30 or 40 MOA with the Lapua
@@mountaintacticalcompany
Thank you
Thanks guys!
Cheers and happy shooting!
Great info thank you 👍👍
You bet
that was really interesting, thanks ! what is the dividing line for choosing a zero MOA and 20 MOA scope mount . would it be say shooting beyond 500 or 600 yards out ? I should add I shoot with a 30-06
The dividing line would be your optic's adjustment range compared to your ballistics at those ranges.
The dividing line is 1340 fps bullet speed. I just saved u $53 on Litz DVD,
As the bullet slows down, gravity, drag, BC,... starts to work on the drop and math can't predict it.
Nice explanation, thanks
You are welcome!
thank you that cleared alot up for me
Glad to hear it!
Very useful information👏 . I didn't get the part 8:46 with 0moa=970yards!? Was the bullet drop and your standing hight taken into account?
Drop is relative to your muzzle height. Cheers!
@@mountaintacticalcompany how do you know the trajectory with 20moa adjustment? What calculator do you use? Cheers!
So, if I understand this correctly, 0 MOA rail for standard hunting ranges, 20 MOA rail for long range target shooting?
Not necessarily. We use our turrets all the time hunting and need a 20-40 MOA rail to do so effectively
A question from the admin or any 1 on this channel is if a sope has 120 moa's top to bottom then some experts says that to utilize all moa's u must have a 60 moa base
So now how to find in millimeter or in inches that my scope base has 60 moa's
Those experts also says that from rifle top (where the rail, ring base then rings r attached for scope) to the scope base u must have at least 1.5 inches gap or distance or height
Any video reference or answer here
So if I understand this correctly, the purpose of the 20 moa rail is to be able to keep the crosshairs dead center on the target at longer ranges, essentially compensating for the bullet drop...correct?
The purpose of a 20 MOA rail is to increase the amount vertical adjustment in the scope so you can dial your turret for longer shots.
I need help.
I have a HOWA model 1500 in 25/06
So I used to have a Burris 10x40 scope and bought a Swarovski z5i 2.4-12x50
I used the same scope rings and the front of the scope is barely not touching the barrel.
You can barely fit a piece of paper between the scope and barrel.
So I sighted in at 100 had to move my up and down alot downwars when I went to sight in at 200-300-400 I ran out adjustment between the 200&300 .
Do I need a 20moa rail with medium rings or should I get a 0 moa rail with high rings?
Thank you
It sounds like you definitely need both the 20 MOA rail and higher rings. That will be a great set up once it is dialed in!
@@mountaintacticalcompany ugh....I ordered the 0 moa last night....
I mean the most I'll shoot is 300 maybe 400 yards....do you think the 0 will be ok?
Thank you for the reply
Dear sir . I just installed 20 moa base. But the problem is i cant get 25 yard zero .i mean there is no click left on my scope . Could you please tell me the solution ? Im going to change my scooe ring from medium to low . Dont know will this help or no
Cheers Mate!
Useful, though I'm still working out how a downward canting 20 MOA rail lifts my range up. A little more step by step on that part would help
Watch the part with the diagrams again. It's all step by step there.
Thank you, I did and it became clear. All best from Australia.
@@teacheng3795 Awesome! Cheers!
I wish you would do a video on a 20 moa rail with milliradian reticle and who that works.
It works exactly the same. Mils can be converted to MOA if you want to plug numbers into what is done here
First I freely admit that I am a beginner when it comes to scope mounting. I’ve got a Tippmann Arms M4 22 Elite rifle that I intend to mount a Hawke 3-9X40 IR with adjustable parallax scope. I purchased a Warne QD cantilever 1” mount but feel like I need more height. The majority of my use will be at an indoor range.. so 25 yards.. but when I get to an outdoor range I’d like to be able to reach out to 100 to 150 yards.. My scope has 100 MOA for both elevation and windage. My rifle has a full length Picatinny rail and the Warne mount has a center point height of 1.43 inches.. Do I need any additional height to be able to reach out to 150 yards? I realize that my scope isn’t ideal for that distance but my use like this will be rare as compared to 25 to 100 yards.. 90% of use will be indoor at 25 yards. The reason I got a QD scope mount is because the rifle comes equipped wi some high quality vip up sights that I’ll use fro time to time. I may even try “lobbing” some shots in with the iron sights at even longer distances. Please advise.
Sorry it took me a bit to respond. Since you are not shooting long range, all you need is 0 MOA.
Good Job!
Thank you!
0 MOA for a PSL or PSO scope and other BDC type scopes
Need some help on this topic as I order some parts for my rifle.Rifle: Rem 700 Magpul .308 5R 22" BarrelScope: Nikon P-223 3-9x40 (I know, this is an AR platform scope)Max Internal Adjustment: 80 MOAUse: Range I'm looking into getting an EGW Picatinny Rail. I'm starting to understand this MOA topic more and more. However here is my question: I plan to use the above gear together for the time being due to cost and what I have at hand, as an intermediate shooter I only have use for this build at the range. 100-300 yards will be my primary shooting distance. Eventually I would like to take it out to 1000 yards, but with a different set up. Since I am under 300 yards, with the scope I have, should I get a 0 moa or 20 moa rail?
Leroy Anthony Duran Jr For your situation it probably wouldn't matter. The 20 MOA would give you flexibility in the future if you choose to shoot farther, but at 300 yards, a 0 MOA rail would not be a handicap.
Hopefully this helps.
Tikka Shooters Thank you
Just what I needed to get up to speed, thank you.
Great!!!
Few seconds in.. I get it.. 20moa rail is a good idea.
for long range
@@khatuntsovmikhail6223
When would it be a bad idea?
As long as you have the adjustment, and it's not at the end of the travel, a 0° have zero advantage.
Have a Nighforce SHV with 100 MOA mounted on a 20 MOA base zeroed at 100 mtrs. Went shooting on weekend at 1200 mtr targets. Ballistics said I needed about 62.7 MOA to be on centre of tgt. Could only dial 54 MOA WTF. Have I missed something as I assumed I had about 70 MOA of adjustment. On a side note I got on with 50 MOA wound out and 5 MOA adjustment using hash marks in scope. Re checked zero at 100 after shoot. Wound up 58 MOA and down 37.5 MOA. Thats not a 100 MOA scope.
For myself, I have purchased a Ruger Rimfire Precision, (don’t laugh, too expensive to shoot my 300 WinMag if I can find the ammo) in .17HMR. I was planning on a 50 yd zero but looking to go out to 300yds. Would a 20 moa be ok or a 30 moa?
There is nothing to be embarrassed about! Most shooters who want to maximize their range time without spending a ton of money buy a rimfire to mimic their primary centerfire rifle. What rail you need is a function of the scope, as stated in the video. Use the calculations in the video to figure out what angle your mount should be. Cheers!
@Miles Maillet sweet! Very flat shooting but the main thing, just like shooting a 22, it’s cheap to run. Before the ammo price jump, I purchased every box I could find. At about 5k now, but that gives me the ability to spend a day at the range and go thru 200-300 and have fun. I mean, 50 round boxes with an average cost of $12.00, that’s cheap fun!!!!
Thank you for this! I am not fully getting it tho because my application is for a .22. I’ve bought a little Bergara BMR - it comes with a 30MOA Rail. I’m confused if this is for long range or short. I want to shoot at a max of 100yards. I’ll be able to shoot 25-30 yards as the squirrels and pests can get that close. Wondering if I’ll need to switch out the rail. If you could help with that. Also my scope will be a low power Leupold 2-7x33 Rimfire if that helps. Thank you!
That is definitely a long range rail set up. That said, if you can still zero the rifle at 50 yards, I would not change a thing. If you cannot get a 50 yard zero, then a 0 MOA rail would work perfect for you. Cheers!
@@mountaintacticalcompany thank you for this reply! I don’t quite understand why they went this route as it’s a great light hunting rifle and they make other .22 rifles for that long range application. No one makes rails except for one company and they only provide a 15MOA But it’s in the right direction.
Will a 20MOA rail effect closer ranges for hunting there's a rifle im looking at from the factory it comes with a 20MOA rail or should I take it off to put 0 MOA scope mounts on for hunting
Over 90% of the time, you'll be fine at closer ranges. Most calibers only drop an inch or two between 100 and 200 yards. A deer won't notice the difference. Haha!
Nice job. 300 PRC via Beraga B14. GPO German Precision Optics GPOTAC 6x 4.5-27x50i FFP - LR PRO #RS670. 34 mm tube. Target and hunt. Mil spec scope. Hence not measuring in MOA. Do I go with 20 MOA rail or standard mounts since I have 115 inches ? Think 20 MOA rail right? Any direction on ring height with 20 MOA rail?
Since this is a dedicated long range set up, I would use the highest MOA angled mount (i.e. 40 MOA+) and use whatever mounts are comfortable for you. You do not want to put tension on the rifle system by contorting yourself to get a sight picture.
That's a great set up! You'll be amazed at how far you will be able to shoot it accurately with practice.
Good info
Is 1310 yards more or less than 6 feet? How many stones or gallons would that be?
What would be the minimum range using your example ?
It would depend on caliber, firearm, intended use, etc. You can use the data provided and apply it to your specific system to determine what you want to do.
I'm a beginner in long distance shooting. I own a 6.5 Creedmoor, and I have a SWFA SS 10x42 Tactical 30mm scope. The specifications for the scope state total elevation adjustment is 120 MOA and total windage adjustment is 120 MOA. Should I also use a 20 MOA rail?
2punish1 That's a great optic! Definitely go 20MOA or up to 40MOA if you can find one for your rifle.
Ok, thanks!