When soldering directly to a battery cell, it works best by using the largest possible soldering iron tip. That way there is less chance of overheating the cell. A small tip may well be hot enough, but will take much longer to heat the mass of the end of the cell, and more heat will have time to migrate into the cell instead of being concentrated at the very end where you are trying to solder. This is especially noticeable on the negative pole of the battery, which does not usually have a raised button which protrudes from the end of the cell; and therefore has greater mass right where you need to heat it. The positive protruding button is always easier to solder.
@@emersonsrandomvideos248 Yes is more then enough, i use the Miniware TS100 solder iron on 24v, and that gives it 64w, i use the biggest solder tip i have for it, i just made a 24v battery Pack. www.miniware.com.cn/product/ts100-soldering-iron-b2-tip-hot-air-soldering-station/
What I like most of your videos is that you write down also formulas, all doubts are sorted out this way❤️ and you make the whole video nor too slow and neither too fast to follow. It's just perfect
Note that a lot of LiPos don't like it when you solder to them, so use a very high soldering temperature with lots of thermal mass, work quickly, and then use some damp cloth to quickly cool the joint down to safe temperatures. If in any way you can, use welding for the tabs instead. Its a nice little project to create a capacitor based welder for tabs anyways.
Nice project. I'd probably skip the hassle of tab welding or soldering and just use two of the 3-cell holders from eBay. It wont be quite as compact but it will get the job done. Maybe replace the included wires with thicker ones.
Telmo Monteiro the holder has resistanse? Wtf?? Those holders are spacers, aka for better cooling. He has a closed box, aka no air anyways. He does not pull close so any current, so the batteries wont heat anyways.. bruh no need for those holders
Yes, but a balancing BMS board is mandatory, and the cell holders are dangerous as they can rip the upper casing of the battery and can short out the battery.
Thanks! Now, a couple of things: First never glue a BMS on top og the batteries. The negative cylinder of the battery is only isolated by a thin layer of paint. Shorten this might be bad (Speaking of experience) Never use melting glue on the BMS. It gets so hot, the glue will melt. Keep it up! Lots og great ideas!
I love your videos. I have a strong recommendation for future pack builds: Add paper (something that won't melt) between any high-amp wire laying next to a cell. It's also a good idea between the ribbon connectors and the edge of the cell on the positive ends. This reduces the risk of a hot connection from melting though the insulation and creating a short. This exact failure happened to me once and I narrowly avoided a bad fire. After this I immediately understood and appreciated the purpose of the paper shims found in many OEM packs.
just realized you're getting close to 500k subs! it's nice to see that there are still some channels with a lot of subscribers, that actually deserve them.
spot welders are the correct tool if you're going by the book, they don't heat the battery up enough to risk damage. so it makes sense he would try that first.
Damn The Video came 2 months to late. I built a boombox with li-ion batterys and had to find every Information by myself about charging bms and so on. Now you answered all My questions just a Little Bit too Late. I Love your Videos they are absolute Amazing. Mach so weiter ;)
Actually just salvaged 50 18650 cells from broken battery packs at work, they all seem to be in a rather good shape. Built myself a 4S5P powerbank with it :) Just didn't get around to building a case for it yet...
Man, I'm too stupid to understand all what you say. Really I'd love to be able to do all those stuff but I think is too complicated for me. Better I buy something done already. I really admire people like u. Thanks for the video
Benjamin Buljevic I think you may be wrong as Great Scott has a response comment below referring to "then the video goes public in 2 hours" It was posted before the video was posted to the public.
Benjamin Buljevic mind double double boggled as I saw the preview of your comment and came here to say mind boggles again, but you had already said it.
Hey Scott, to make spot welds in the batteries you must place the two leads in the battery at the same time and then send energy to them. That's how spot welding machines work
Scott, using liquid flux before soldering makes soldering much easier and faster. I've added solder to the positive terminals of 18650s to make them fit better in my flashlight and it only takes 3-5 seconds to add the solder when flux is applied. No sanding needed.
I built my own DIY battery tab welder out of car battery and some beefy MOSFETs controlled by a microcontroller. When I press a foot pedal, the microcontroller gives a double pulse with configurable length to the MOSFETs and they then short circuit the car battery through some beefy wire and and hand held anodes, causing the pulsed current to weld the nickel strip to on to the battery tab. It also won't trigger a new pulse before the foot pedal is released for a second at least. I am an embedded systems engineer with experience in motor controllers, so microcontrollers and MOSFETs are quite familiar to me.
SiMoS MCmuffin Alternatively search for ‘atv starter solenoid’, and again with a car battery for a source - i used sharpened TIG welding tungstens as a tip.
I don't want to make a negative comment on your pronunciation, so let's call this constructive criticism: To avoid confusion you may want to say "dash"-25R instead of "minus"-25R because the word minus makes absolutely no sense in a model number. That's all. Keep up the good work and amazing videos :D
3/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe can be used to make 18650 battery holders, although the inner diameter is slightly too large. A few strips of thin plastic or even three dots of hot melt glue on the inner surface will ensure that the battery stays centered. If you are concerned with airflow, a few slits lengthwise in the section of pipe, but not all the way to the ends will help. 1/2" Schedule 40 PVC is a bit too small, but if you have the capability to drill it out to 23/32", it could work. When I needed to make a battery holder for an 18650, I made it out of PVC pipe or wood with a bolt in each end that combined with a lead slug acts as a terminal for each end.
Hey, thats not how spot welders are used in IRL. there is a foot pedal which we push to turn the electrodes on after we have placed them correctly on the work piece. This prevents sparking. The newer fancy ones have a pressure sensitive switch on one electrode which automatically does this for us.
Neat, I made a very similar video about a week ago (Made a 16v 10,000mAh battery brick), using one of the ebay spot welders. I finally beat you to a video! Lol - you went ahead and added a BMS though, which is a really good idea.
Eunice Deines I think it has to do with charging all the batteries in a pack equally, but that is only a thing to consider with packs consisting of individual cells, not like the lead acid battery. I am not sure, so you should double check
Hey! Would it be possible to add a power inverter to this power pack? so that the power adapter would be able to Power different small appliances like Fans or chargers.
Hi. Good information. Can you just tell me why that balance connector pins are provided outside your battery bank? To balance charge the batteries you have BMS right & you connected those balance pin of BMS to the each battery.. Then what is that balance connector at the outside of the Battery bank box.
Because the BMS board does not balance. It cuts the charge when the first battery reaches 4.2 Volt and the rest then remain where they are. So it is not a BMS board, but a kinda protection board.
Great video, I'm thinking on making LED lights in my school cabinet, but the problem is with powering it. I guess this video solves the problem, i just have to get in hold of some Li-On cells.
Its nice to see someone on youtube using a BMS. Most people take hundreds of li-ion batteries, tie them together, and call it done. Its stupid. And as an engineer it makes me cringe, and become irate.
JT Lowry if I understood him right, the balance connectors added at 5:57 make the BMS balance charge the pack. But I’m not sure. Could someone explain please?
You sir have prefect timing , i have just received the last few items to build my custom HyperCube 3D printer ( core xy printer made from 2020 aluminium )and wanted a project to do with it once its done !!!!
Great work .... best to drive led strips at below 12V , they will last much longer 11V is good with hardly any noticeable light loss...Leds are also more efficient at lower currents. (lumens out /Watts in) Also charging each cell to 3.93 gives a maximum life of 4, 000 cycles ...4.2 gives only 400 cycles (see BatteryUnivercity) you only loose 35% capacity by charging to 3.93 compared to 4.2 ...3 in series give a reasonable maximum voltage of 11.8 to drive the led strip.
A great and inspiring project! For convenience though, I would have preferred to be able to charge the pack from an 5V USB charger, which usually is more likely to be available when not at home.
example for sony cell on page 8 and 9 www.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/1400000-1499999/001499574-da-01-en-SONY_LI_ION_AKKU_18650__3000MAH_30A.pdf
It doesnt look like there is any point discharging beyond 3.1 V as the voltage is already plummeting by then. Theres good information here on charge policies for li-ion longevity: batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries The advice there for maximum longevity is not to charge them beyond 80% state-of-charge often, and if stored, store them around 40% soc. Also, heat is big a factor especially when fully charged. That's very different from the popular idea that they should be kept topped up.
Use the spot welder, don't solder directly to the cells unless you like fires. (or just buy tabbed cells) Spot welding should be done by applying electrodes and pressure, _then_ turning on the power.
I really don't understand. They made a mistake (even though it wasn't even them producing the batterys), and fixed it. Unlike Apple, which still didn't fix the iPhone 6S Touchscreen IC problem, even though it's fairly known.
Nice! Now here is an idea for another similar video for us, non tech people: same process to power Raspberry pi proyects, like, for example, a time-lapse camera for a week on the wilderness of a crop. The battery would have to have usb conector, enough amps to power the Pi, a wifi antena and a webcam. Sounds good?
A heads up for anyone that doesn't know you can buy 18650 batteries that have tags already attached generally they come in two types U-tags and Z-tags, the Z tags face opposite directions the U are the same direction.
I do pack builds like this all the time because I have a flashlight that I'm working on making replacement packs for. It uses a 6S unprotected LiIon pack that I simply just add a voltage alarm to. When a cell reaches 3.00v it deafens the user and flashes a red light bar. I'm thinking I might make it more subtle though by adding a transistor and a latching relay so that it cuts the power from the battery when the cell voltages are below 2.9v
you seem so skilled a soldering I cant get solder to flow like that on cells. and also don't try to tap the nails try to create a relay and with a switch try to turn it on with the leads in place maybe that will work for spot welding
A really great project would be to make a universal 20V battery pack for power tools. One where you can use the cells you want & easily get around thermistor requirements and fitting issues.
1-To point solder the ribbon on the batteries, you need copper tips. 2- To solder the ribbon on the batteries with soldering iron, you need some flux, no need to use sand paper.
Great little video and batteries have changed since i did li-ion cell when first came out for my RC cars...only suggestion if you have to solder is to buy batteries that already have tabs slightly more expensive but considering possible loss due to overheating its not bad :)
I'd like to see you sketch out and build the actual battery protection, much more interesting and important to know i think! Often times you show the basic building blocks before utilizing a commercial solution... VERY much missed this time!
For spot welding, why wouldn't you put one electrode on the battery, and they other on the tab? I thought you'd want the current to go through both parts to weld. The point in the circuit with the highest resistance (between the tab and battery) would heat up first and weld, right?
Thanks just what I was needing going to build me some packs for various things. May even make a super capacitor car battery with ion sub battery back up. Or even a large pack for my contracting tools when you working all day you will go through 2-4 battery packs. Mostly draining the power low a larger pack in theory should cycle longer if you could go home with say 50% battery instead of 6 empty opnes. I know an old timer who uses a capacitor bank with a 18v fork lift lead acid battery bank. Will last on the job for days as they build off grid alot doing fences he wires his tools to old battery packs which actually provide really good cells themselves even better than laptop ones! Seriously check Homedepot/lowes recycling bins often looked over as people go for laptop batteries. Most packs will have one bad battery and 3 good ones usually for top brands high amp and 3000 mah cells. They are harder to open though lol
Ein 3S Pack ist schwer mit 5V zu laden. da benötigst du einen Step-up konverter. 55Wh aus einem USB Port (5V/500mA)dauert auch ziemlich lange. Mit den Verlusten des DC/DC Konverters vermutlich ca. 30h. Auch mit 5V/2A wird es 7-8h dauern.
As far as soldering directly to batteries goes, there appear to be no ill effects especially if you immediately grasp the solder joint with a cold damp cloth. Mr Carlson's Lab channel has done it repeatedly over the years with no problems.
You need to use copper electrodes for spot welding, they have better electrical and heat conductivity. E.g. use some solid pieces of wire with 4mm² or 6mm² cross section. Whit is even more important, you have to apply pressure with the electrodes and you have to KEEP it after the current is switched off. Some people use a big capacitor charged to the right energy, which is discharged with a big MOSFET (or thyristor) through the welding spot. But a transformer is also very good. You have to switch the current on just for some milliseconds. In case of a transformer this is best done at the primary side with a solid state relay. You can also use MOSFETs on the secondary side, but obviously they have to be rated for several 100A. The timing can of course done with a small micro controller with display and all the bells and whistles. But of course a simple 555 also can make the pulse.
unfortunately not. I plan to built a capacitive discharge unit, but did not yet do it. and I have really no experience in making videos. i did some google search some time ago with keywords like: battery spot welding, capacitive discharge spot welding and similar. I think there were even some videos in youtube. The principle of keeping the pressure until the weld has cooled is generic for spot welding - you want together and not just burn material. You do NOT switch the current with the electrodes, you do not want an arc. Its resistive heating
I still don't understand something: i want to power a robotics project with 18650 batteries, 6 of them to be precise (I'm a little bit space constrained). Since all logic electronic runs on 5v i want the battery pack to output 5v and since I have already two DC regulator (one from UBEC, which based on a lilttle jumper allows me to transform every input from 5 to 24 volts to a safe and stable 5v 3A or 6v 3A and a 6-12v usb voltage coverter to 5v 2A. I'll probably use the UBEC one, because i'll implement very soon an nVidia Jetson Nano, with a slave teensy wich controls the I2C servo interfaces, esp32 module for Bluetooth and wifi control i'll need the 3A) i decied to go with a 2s3p configuration, 3 parallel packs made of 2 batteries each, in order to have a nice 7,4 volts to low with the DC regulator and enough Ah to power the Jetsoon nano and all the servos (and all the oterh boards) for a while (p.s. i can't find anywhere the jetson nano energy consumption to calculate how much time i should be able to power it with 7500mAh, if anyone is informed, pls let me know.) but which BMS should i buy? a 2 cells one, 3 cells or 6? And how should i wire them? Based on what I've understood so farbased on what I've understood so far I should use a 2s BMS... but i don't want to buy, wait for shipping etc etc and find out that i was wrong, so pls, help me :)
Is that battery management circuit performing bottom balancing instead of top balancing maybe? What are the cell voltages when the device discontinues current when High and when low? Is it just being lazy and stopping charge/discharge when any single cell gets over or under a set point voltage? If so, you may need to experiment a little and see if you can manually top or bottom balance the cells to see if the BMS takes over better then.
I think the spot welder was not being used appropriately, hence not working. With spot welding, you first need to make a good contact, using some pressure, before the switch is 'hit'.
when you have the cells connected in series, then you need one, especially when you have cells from different manufacturers, when you don't have a overdischarge funktion, a cell that has not the capacity than the others can be underdischarged and damaged very quickly.
Nice informative video, but the equivalent 3S Li-Po would be probably a more practical solution. Li-Po are only dangerous if they are abused. A simple buzzer that beep LOUD when the desired voltage is reached is plenty enough for an application where it only power LEDs. Plus you can monitor the voltage in real time. Such buzzers cost ~4$.
PLEASE ANSWER THIS QUESTION: After finishing the battery pack and adding the BMS, is it possible to create an AC Adapter ? so that the power adapter would be able to Power different small appliances like Fans or chargers. -Would you have to add an inverter? Please answer. Asking for a friend.
Thanks, Scott! I want to refurbish my laptop's battery (instead of paying 5 times more the usual battery price for my designer laptop battery), and your video comes really handy. By the way, make a video about refurbishing laptop battery!
Hi Great Scott, I'm going to create this project. My question is should I make sure all the battery is fully discharged before I connect them all together?
great vídeo as usual. How about a vídeo showing a RF transmiter and receiver circuit. Not the modules we can buy at the internet, but how to build one and how It works.
Have you thought about limiting the current on the primary coil by adding a series resistor ? Much easier to control the current that way instead of adjusting the output voltage
When soldering directly to a battery cell, it works best by using the largest possible soldering iron tip. That way there is less chance of overheating the cell. A small tip may well be hot enough, but will take much longer to heat the mass of the end of the cell, and more heat will have time to migrate into the cell instead of being concentrated at the very end where you are trying to solder. This is especially noticeable on the negative pole of the battery, which does not usually have a raised button which protrudes from the end of the cell; and therefore has greater mass right where you need to heat it. The positive protruding button is always easier to solder.
Albert Pelletier
Makes sense. Would 60 watts soldering tip suffice?
@@emersonsrandomvideos248 I use an 80 watt, but it should be fine
Also, you should discharge the battery to 3.5-3.6 v/cell to lower the heat damage to battery before the heat soldering.
@@emersonsrandomvideos248 Yes is more then enough, i use the Miniware TS100 solder iron on 24v, and that gives it 64w, i use the biggest solder tip i have for it, i just made a 24v battery Pack.
www.miniware.com.cn/product/ts100-soldering-iron-b2-tip-hot-air-soldering-station/
@@breezeli6233 Never done that, and they still work perfect, they still have each 3400mAh.
What I like most of your videos is that you write down also formulas, all doubts are sorted out this way❤️ and you make the whole video nor too slow and neither too fast to follow. It's just perfect
Note that a lot of LiPos don't like it when you solder to them, so use a very high soldering temperature with lots of thermal mass, work quickly, and then use some damp cloth to quickly cool the joint down to safe temperatures. If in any way you can, use welding for the tabs instead. Its a nice little project to create a capacitor based welder for tabs anyways.
if this guy and colinfurze would meet, they would make a fully-functioning Iron-Man suit :D
Sir how can I convert 3g/4g internet wifi dongles to a GPS tracker for pets
Or
How to make one GPS tracker
Sir how can I convert 3g/4g internet wifi dongles to a GPS tracker for pets
Or
How to make one GPS tracker
just buy the tracker, will be more practical and economical
I think it should James Bruton and hack Smith should be there as well for it to work properly and accurately
*_Hacksmith_*_ has entered the chat_
Nice project. I'd probably skip the hassle of tab welding or soldering and just use two of the 3-cell holders from eBay. It wont be quite as compact but it will get the job done. Maybe replace the included wires with thicker ones.
Gadget Addict Those battery holders have a ton of resistance! I have some here laying around and I tested. He needs the tabs.
Did you replace the supplied wires on the battery holders?
It's not just the wires, the connectors inside the box and even the springs can't handle any decent amount of current.
Telmo Monteiro the holder has resistanse? Wtf?? Those holders are spacers, aka for better cooling. He has a closed box, aka no air anyways. He does not pull close so any current, so the batteries wont heat anyways.. bruh no need for those holders
Yes, but a balancing BMS board is mandatory, and the cell holders are dangerous as they can rip the upper casing of the battery and can short out the battery.
Thanks! Now, a couple of things: First never glue a BMS on top og the batteries. The negative cylinder of the battery is only isolated by a thin layer of paint. Shorten this might be bad (Speaking of experience) Never use melting glue on the BMS. It gets so hot, the glue will melt. Keep it up! Lots og great ideas!
I love your videos. I have a strong recommendation for future pack builds: Add paper (something that won't melt) between any high-amp wire laying next to a cell. It's also a good idea between the ribbon connectors and the edge of the cell on the positive ends. This reduces the risk of a hot connection from melting though the insulation and creating a short. This exact failure happened to me once and I narrowly avoided a bad fire. After this I immediately understood and appreciated the purpose of the paper shims found in many OEM packs.
just realized you're getting close to 500k subs! it's nice to see that there are still some channels with a lot of subscribers, that actually deserve them.
how notice that scotte always says in the beginning of video "I recently"
This helped me a lot scott! Thanks for making this awesome videos
You're welcome
hey i am not expert but i advise you to use cooper elctrodes
GreatScott! uhm do you have a video on making your own ups for ac voltage? If not would you consider doing one?
Great scott logic: I need to build solder a batterypack, lets build a fucking spot welder lmao hahah ly man
Mathis 😂😂
Sir how can I convert 3g/4g internet wifi dongles to a GPS tracker for pets
Or
How to make one GPS tracker
@@gmmrk35 you can't
spot welders are the correct tool if you're going by the book, they don't heat the battery up enough to risk damage. so it makes sense he would try that first.
Damn The Video came 2 months to late. I built a boombox with li-ion batterys and had to find every Information by myself about charging bms and so on. Now you answered all My questions just a Little Bit too Late.
I Love your Videos they are absolute Amazing.
Mach so weiter ;)
I did not know how to setup the balance connector, you delivered with your great content once again. Thanks!
Actually just salvaged 50 18650 cells from broken battery packs at work, they all seem to be in a rather good shape. Built myself a 4S5P powerbank with it :)
Just didn't get around to building a case for it yet...
muh1h1 Did you use a BMS on your 4S5P pack? How did you do it?
I'm also curious about this.. Have you tried adding a power inverter ? So that it could power up other appliances..
I like it! Very helpful video.
Man, I'm too stupid to understand all what you say. Really I'd love to be able to do all those stuff but I think is too complicated for me. Better I buy something done already. I really admire people like u. Thanks for the video
Your my favourite electrical RUclips to watch please keep up the great work 😀
Thanks :-)
Ive watched hours and enjoy your direct and informational style. Thank you Scott!
A project like this is what got me into circuits. Still working on mine have over 500 cells i'm putting into 6S configuration.
32 views in 5 seconds. mind boggles.
Dave Webster The early views are because Patreon donors get access to videos before they release to the public.
Jon Vannatto mind unboggles thank you!
the patreon people dont watch the same video on youtube so their views dont count for this one
mind reboggled again
Benjamin Buljevic I think you may be wrong as Great Scott has a response comment below referring to "then the video goes public in 2 hours" It was posted before the video was posted to the public.
Benjamin Buljevic mind double double boggled as I saw the preview of your comment and came here to say mind boggles again, but you had already said it.
Hey Scott, to make spot welds in the batteries you must place the two leads in the battery at the same time and then send energy to them. That's how spot welding machines work
Jeronimo Murruni his name is not Scott
***** isn't it? My life was a lie!
roidroid 😂
Or should I say Doctor *von* Scott?
I've been looking for a better video and then my phone rang with ur notification... like like like
Liked the min/max testing and bold bridging to the secondary method...3d design and printing case for the win!
please make video of how to make battery management system circuit it will be vary helpful.
and THANKS for this one.
Scott, using liquid flux before soldering makes soldering much easier and faster. I've added solder to the positive terminals of 18650s to make them fit better in my flashlight and it only takes 3-5 seconds to add the solder when flux is applied. No sanding needed.
I built my own DIY battery tab welder out of car battery and some beefy MOSFETs controlled by a microcontroller. When I press a foot pedal, the microcontroller gives a double pulse with configurable length to the MOSFETs and they then short circuit the car battery through some beefy wire and and hand held anodes, causing the pulsed current to weld the nickel strip to on to the battery tab. It also won't trigger a new pulse before the foot pedal is released for a second at least.
I am an embedded systems engineer with experience in motor controllers, so microcontrollers and MOSFETs are quite familiar to me.
SiMoS MCmuffin Alternatively search for ‘atv starter solenoid’, and again with a car battery for a source - i used sharpened TIG welding tungstens as a tip.
Each time I watch any of your projects I want to buy it, which defeats the DIY part hehehe
I don't want to make a negative comment on your pronunciation, so let's call this constructive criticism: To avoid confusion you may want to say "dash"-25R instead of "minus"-25R because the word minus makes absolutely no sense in a model number. That's all. Keep up the good work and amazing videos :D
the 500k are approaching quickly. Congrats.
5:25 " by simply glueing it, and the project is complete" I just thaught that he will say that XD
3/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe can be used to make 18650 battery holders, although the inner diameter is slightly too large. A few strips of thin plastic or even three dots of hot melt glue on the inner surface will ensure that the battery stays centered. If you are concerned with airflow, a few slits lengthwise in the section of pipe, but not all the way to the ends will help. 1/2" Schedule 40 PVC is a bit too small, but if you have the capability to drill it out to 23/32", it could work.
When I needed to make a battery holder for an 18650, I made it out of PVC pipe or wood with a bolt in each end that combined with a lead slug acts as a terminal for each end.
"minus" is usually called "dash" when it isn't in a calculation ;)
ex: ncr dash 25R
my number is 867 minus 5309
I have a lot of 18650 bateries, this will help me a lot. Thank you Scott!
You're welcome :-)
XT connectors! great choice!
IRFZ44 But a bitch to connect and disconnect.
Why? What makes it better than a screw, jst, or molex?
Watched the video up to eight times now, it´s getting more!!!!
can you please do a video on how to check if the battery is damaged so as not to charge it?
you can use a battry charging and discharging station to find its rating and if its lower than average its probably damaged
Hey, thats not how spot welders are used in IRL. there is a foot pedal which we push to turn the electrodes on after we have placed them correctly on the work piece. This prevents sparking.
The newer fancy ones have a pressure sensitive switch on one electrode which automatically does this for us.
Neat, I made a very similar video about a week ago (Made a 16v 10,000mAh battery brick), using one of the ebay spot welders. I finally beat you to a video! Lol - you went ahead and added a BMS though, which is a really good idea.
Whattttt Is An Equalizing Charge, Why Is It Neededddd, And How to Apply One To a Lead Acid Battery > t.co/3ycayBV4e1?hwhqn4BmC2Isdd
Eunice Deines I think it has to do with charging all the batteries in a pack equally, but that is only a thing to consider with packs consisting of individual cells, not like the lead acid battery. I am not sure, so you should double check
Hey! Would it be possible to add a power inverter to this power pack? so that the power adapter
would be able to Power different small appliances like Fans or chargers.
your hand writing is amazing!
Hi. Good information. Can you just tell me why that balance connector pins are provided outside your battery bank? To balance charge the batteries you have BMS right & you connected those balance pin of BMS to the each battery.. Then what is that balance connector at the outside of the Battery bank box.
I also have the same question
Because the BMS board does not balance. It cuts the charge when the first battery reaches 4.2 Volt and the rest then remain where they are. So it is not a BMS board, but a kinda protection board.
@@dougerrohmer It *IS* a BMS Board !!! It does not have the "balancing" option...
Great video, I'm thinking on making LED lights in my school cabinet, but the problem is with powering it. I guess this video solves the problem, i just have to get in hold of some Li-On cells.
Very useful DIY, thanks for sharing ..
Its nice to see someone on youtube using a BMS. Most people take hundreds of li-ion batteries, tie them together, and call it done. Its stupid. And as an engineer it makes me cringe, and become irate.
Nice! Now i just need 6 Li-ion cells, and a 3D printer!
I get goosebumps every time he says "Let's get started."
hahaha......."stay creative and i will see you next time"
Should build one that has a bms that can balance charge
JT Lowry if I understood him right, the balance connectors added at 5:57 make the BMS balance charge the pack. But I’m not sure. Could someone explain please?
@@knodelcrafter6888 he literally said it can't balance charge
Max745 board has balancing capability. Around $10 on aliexpress
You sir have prefect timing , i have just received the last few items to build my custom HyperCube 3D printer ( core xy printer made from 2020 aluminium )and wanted a project to do with it once its done !!!!
if you could do a video how to salvage amp from old tv it would be awsome :D
Great work .... best to drive led strips at below 12V , they will last much longer 11V is good with hardly any noticeable light loss...Leds are also more efficient at lower currents. (lumens out /Watts in)
Also charging each cell to 3.93 gives a maximum life of 4, 000 cycles ...4.2 gives only 400 cycles (see BatteryUnivercity) you only loose 35% capacity by charging to 3.93 compared to 4.2 ...3 in series give a reasonable maximum voltage of 11.8 to drive the led strip.
4:19 CmonBruh
Could have used 4:20 scumbag
Nickel please! :D
@@mashedpotatoes5323 no he couldnt
A great and inspiring project! For convenience though, I would have preferred to be able to charge the pack from an 5V USB charger, which usually is more likely to be available when not at home.
discharging an 18650 down to 2.5v is not good. i thing the 2.8v is the extreme lowest point
astafzciba nope laptops bms actually discharge them to 2.5 that's safe I have tested this
3.2v is good for the battery to last for years, 2.5v will kill the battery in a short period of time
example for sony cell on page 8 and 9
www.produktinfo.conrad.com/datenblaetter/1400000-1499999/001499574-da-01-en-SONY_LI_ION_AKKU_18650__3000MAH_30A.pdf
It doesnt look like there is any point discharging beyond 3.1 V as the voltage is already plummeting by then.
Theres good information here on charge policies for li-ion longevity:
batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
The advice there for maximum longevity is not to charge them beyond 80% state-of-charge often, and if stored, store them around 40% soc. Also, heat is big a factor especially when fully charged. That's very different from the popular idea that they should be kept topped up.
nightmare in action nighmare in action laptop batteries fail all the time, I don't go below 2.8-3v
GreatScott! you are the greatest.
I just ask you to keep on making such high quality material.
So far thank you very much.
2:48 klemt a nail ? Germish !
clamped
I recommend adding a series Switch
am i the only one who hears "nigga ribbons"
no. hundreds of others did too.
I did
Use the spot welder, don't solder directly to the cells unless you like fires. (or just buy tabbed cells)
Spot welding should be done by applying electrodes and pressure, _then_ turning on the power.
One simple rule
Look what Samsung does
Do the opposite
💥
I really don't understand. They made a mistake (even though it wasn't even them producing the batterys), and fixed it. Unlike Apple, which still didn't fix the iPhone 6S Touchscreen IC problem, even though it's fairly known.
Phil.R. lol, im watching this on a note 7
Oh stop it....everyone has had a bad supply of batteries. Dell, Sony...
They fixed it. Life goes on.
Ado Gamer R.I.P you then lol. Hahahaha
These samsung 25R5's have been pushing to ~20A CDR without adverse effects.
Nice! Now here is an idea for another similar video for us, non tech people: same process to power Raspberry pi proyects, like, for example, a time-lapse camera for a week on the wilderness of a crop.
The battery would have to have usb conector, enough amps to power the Pi, a wifi antena and a webcam. Sounds good?
You should look into a dual pulse spot welder. It's a quite simple idea using supercapacitors
A heads up for anyone that doesn't know you can buy 18650 batteries that have tags already attached generally they come in two types U-tags and Z-tags, the Z tags face opposite directions the U are the same direction.
I did a lot of practice on dead AA batteries first to get the right soldering temperature and fastest time before going onto the 18650s.
Thank you so much for this toturial you made me save so much money. If it weren't be you I had to buy expensive Li-po batteries for my project
I do pack builds like this all the time because I have a flashlight that I'm working on making replacement packs for. It uses a 6S unprotected LiIon pack that I simply just add a voltage alarm to. When a cell reaches 3.00v it deafens the user and flashes a red light bar. I'm thinking I might make it more subtle though by adding a transistor and a latching relay so that it cuts the power from the battery when the cell voltages are below 2.9v
That thumbnail looks so dangerous. I'm totally building this!
Damn man. You are smart as hell. Good work!
Glad to see u back bro
I wasn't gone
you seem so skilled a soldering I cant get solder to flow like that on cells. and also don't try to tap the nails try to create a relay and with a switch try to turn it on with the leads in place maybe that will work for spot welding
A really great project would be to make a universal 20V battery pack for power tools. One where you can use the cells you want & easily get around thermistor requirements and fitting issues.
1-To point solder the ribbon on the batteries, you need copper tips.
2- To solder the ribbon on the batteries with soldering iron, you need some flux, no need to use sand paper.
Great little video and batteries have changed since i did li-ion cell when first came out for my RC cars...only suggestion if you have to solder is to buy batteries that already have tabs slightly more expensive but considering possible loss due to overheating its not bad :)
Awesome! now I have a portable charger to take on the plane with me!
you have the greatest handwriting in the world!
Richtig Gutes Erklärvideo 😎 ..direkt in Meine "Elektrowissen" Playlist gedropt🤩.
Danke Scott
This the kind of stuff I like to see. A useful hack.
I'd like to see you sketch out and build the actual battery protection, much more interesting and important to know i think! Often times you show the basic building blocks before utilizing a commercial solution... VERY much missed this time!
I love the way you say nickel
so clear 3d print 👍👍 good job
For spot welding, why wouldn't you put one electrode on the battery, and they other on the tab? I thought you'd want the current to go through both parts to weld. The point in the circuit with the highest resistance (between the tab and battery) would heat up first and weld, right?
Thanks just what I was needing going to build me some packs for various things. May even make a super capacitor car battery with ion sub battery back up. Or even a large pack for my contracting tools when you working all day you will go through 2-4 battery packs. Mostly draining the power low a larger pack in theory should cycle longer if you could go home with say 50% battery instead of 6 empty opnes. I know an old timer who uses a capacitor bank with a 18v fork lift lead acid battery bank. Will last on the job for days as they build off grid alot doing fences he wires his tools to old battery packs which actually provide really good cells themselves even better than laptop ones! Seriously check Homedepot/lowes recycling bins often looked over as people go for laptop batteries. Most packs will have one bad battery and 3 good ones usually for top brands high amp and 3000 mah cells. They are harder to open though lol
Every gold video start woth ''I recently...''
Great video, using some of the pointers here for my own 18650 battery pack build!
Viel gelernt, besten Dank. Für Dummies (wie mich) ohne Ladegerät wäre ein USB-Ladeport noch DAS fehlende Luxusfeature.
Ein 3S Pack ist schwer mit 5V zu laden. da benötigst du einen Step-up konverter. 55Wh aus einem USB Port (5V/500mA)dauert auch ziemlich lange. Mit den Verlusten des DC/DC Konverters vermutlich ca. 30h. Auch mit 5V/2A wird es 7-8h dauern.
Ein IMAX B6 Klon kostet einen Zwannie mit Versand aus DE...
goamarty usb 3.0 hat sogar ganze 900mah😂
ja und das sogar alle 72min :-) 750mA maximaler Strom, wenn ich mich nicht irre.
As far as soldering directly to batteries goes, there appear to be no ill effects especially if you immediately grasp the solder joint with a cold damp cloth. Mr Carlson's Lab channel has done it repeatedly over the years with no problems.
Can you add a more detailed electric scheme please ? ( with the wiring of the BMS and the balance port)
You need to use copper electrodes for spot welding, they have better electrical and heat conductivity. E.g. use some solid pieces of wire with 4mm² or 6mm² cross section.
Whit is even more important, you have to apply pressure with the electrodes and you have to KEEP it after the current is switched off. Some people use a big capacitor charged to the right energy, which is discharged with a big MOSFET (or thyristor) through the welding spot. But a transformer is also very good. You have to switch the current on just for some milliseconds. In case of a transformer this is best done at the primary side with a solid state relay. You can also use MOSFETs on the secondary side, but obviously they have to be rated for several 100A.
The timing can of course done with a small micro controller with display and all the bells and whistles. But of course a simple 555 also can make the pulse.
Can you do a how-to video on this maybe?
unfortunately not. I plan to built a capacitive discharge unit, but did not yet do it. and I have really no experience in making videos. i did some google search some time ago with keywords like: battery spot welding, capacitive discharge spot welding and similar. I think there were even some videos in youtube.
The principle of keeping the pressure until the weld has cooled is generic for spot welding - you want together and not just burn material. You do NOT switch the current with the electrodes, you do not want an arc. Its resistive heating
I still don't understand something: i want to power a robotics project with 18650 batteries, 6 of them to be precise (I'm a little bit space constrained). Since all logic electronic runs on 5v i want the battery pack to output 5v and since I have already two DC regulator (one from UBEC, which based on a lilttle jumper allows me to transform every input from 5 to 24 volts to a safe and stable 5v 3A or 6v 3A and a 6-12v usb voltage coverter to 5v 2A. I'll probably use the UBEC one, because i'll implement very soon an nVidia Jetson Nano, with a slave teensy wich controls the I2C servo interfaces, esp32 module for Bluetooth and wifi control i'll need the 3A) i decied to go with a 2s3p configuration, 3 parallel packs made of 2 batteries each, in order to have a nice 7,4 volts to low with the DC regulator and enough Ah to power the Jetsoon nano and all the servos (and all the oterh boards) for a while (p.s. i can't find anywhere the jetson nano energy consumption to calculate how much time i should be able to power it with 7500mAh, if anyone is informed, pls let me know.) but which BMS should i buy? a 2 cells one, 3 cells or 6? And how should i wire them? Based on what I've understood so farbased on what I've understood so far I should use a 2s BMS... but i don't want to buy, wait for shipping etc etc and find out that i was wrong, so pls, help me :)
Great video, I recently made a very similar 11 volt power bank for my Rc vehicles, but it had half the amount of mah.
So many useful information in 1 video... Thank you Scott!
No problem
Is that battery management circuit performing bottom balancing instead of top balancing maybe? What are the cell voltages when the device discontinues current when High and when low? Is it just being lazy and stopping charge/discharge when any single cell gets over or under a set point voltage? If so, you may need to experiment a little and see if you can manually top or bottom balance the cells to see if the BMS takes over better then.
NO
I think the spot welder was not being used appropriately, hence not working. With spot welding, you first need to make a good contact, using some pressure, before the switch is 'hit'.
You don't need overdischarge protection when lighting LED's unless the LED's can function below the safe discharge voltage.
when you have the cells connected in series, then you need one, especially when you have cells from different manufacturers, when you don't have a overdischarge funktion, a cell that has not the capacity than the others can be underdischarged and damaged very quickly.
TheScrappingJeahaha That's balancing not over discharging.
Nah, +thescrappingjeahaha is correct. If you have two cells at 3.7 and one at 2, if those LEDs are still functioning at 9V, you're doing damage.
this was a great project I sure I should use this for my Raspberry Pi laptop I'm making
Nice informative video, but the equivalent 3S Li-Po would be probably a more practical solution. Li-Po are only dangerous if they are abused. A simple buzzer that beep LOUD when the desired voltage is reached is plenty enough for an application where it only power LEDs. Plus you can monitor the voltage in real time. Such buzzers cost ~4$.
PLEASE ANSWER THIS QUESTION:
After finishing the battery pack and adding the BMS,
is it possible to create an AC Adapter ? so that the power adapter
would be able to Power different small appliances like Fans or chargers.
-Would you have to add an inverter?
Please answer. Asking for a friend.
Please make each battery level indicators for the project you did on this with BMS
Thanks, Scott! I want to refurbish my laptop's battery (instead of paying 5 times more the usual battery price for my designer laptop battery), and your video comes really handy. By the way, make a video about refurbishing laptop battery!
Hi Great Scott, I'm going to create this project. My question is should I make sure all the battery is fully discharged before I connect them all together?
great vídeo as usual. How about a vídeo showing a RF transmiter and receiver circuit. Not the modules we can buy at the internet, but how to build one and how It works.
I was really desperate for this piece of info thank you so much sir
Have you thought about limiting the current on the primary coil by adding a series resistor ? Much easier to control the current that way instead of adjusting the output voltage