As a romanian proud owner of a Himalayan, I would like to thank you for all the tutorials that you posted. For me, it would be self-service or no-service. Also, congrats to Royal Enfield and the people of India for producing such a great bike.
Thanks mate, simple bike with simple diys and that will take it a long way with keeping the riding experience trouble free and truly enjoyable. I am glad you have found these useful. Stay safe 🙂
This fluid change is so important. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and brake fluid that is full of water is dangerous as it can vaporize due to heat generated during heavy brake use, such as using a lot of braking while going down a mountain pass. Since vapor compresses, the brakes cannot work until they cool and the water vapor condenses back into a liquid.
Exactly mate, and that is why we see some people complaining about the poor brakes on Himalayan. I'll be honest, have done 32000 kms but with regular maintenance I am yet to see any issue. Fingers crossed, they shouldnt crop up either, cheers :)
Thanks mate. Pretty simple stuff no. As for the excess you are worried about just make sure whatever has squeezed out after tightening the cap, wipe it with some soapy water. If oil hadn't squeezed out then no worries, as that would mean you got the right level
My friend used to say, the max level should not be above the viewing window. Keep it at a level where you are able to see the level easily through the side window.
just an add on. once new oil starts to bleed and you still feel there's air in system, hang the other end of pipe upwards into the master cylinder. open bleed nut and keep pumping until air bubble stops. this way you would not have to work on lever and bleed nut simultaneously. this way you will have to use more brake oil but you can save the remaining fluid in pipe for future use.
I wonder why pumping is needed to get the brake lever back again. Master cylinder is not just humble Pascal's law in action! Thanks for detailed instructions. This is helpful.
Thanks mate, glad you found this useful. As for pumping, I wish I could elaborate on it but all I can say is it helps to release any trapped air in the system say master cylinder, caliper or hose itself thus eliminating that spongy lever feel. But a good question 🤓
My first thought was of a valve action which only allowed flow in one direction, but then it would cause vacuum build-up, as the line is airtight. I bet it would be something very simple to a novice eye like mine, but then the engineering would be marvellous. I'll read about it.☺️
@@leuheanrede Thank you man! You're really kind. I was just watching brake rebuild from MC Garage, I'll keep looking. I'll write here, once I find the answer! Regards.
@@SauvikRoy remember you have an ABS unit in the system too, lot of fluid disteance to push down to the unit then back up to the caliper, I'm betting its the fact you don't have a straight line to the caliper thats causing the effect. It doesn't happen on my older non abs bikes when I bleed them
I was installing a hand guard on mine and loosened the nut that holds the hose to the fluid container on the handlebar. Some brake fluid leaked and now my front brake is completely borked. I imagine some air got into the system. What can I do to fix this? Just top up the brake fluid? I imagine I need to open the container and pump the brakes+top up until the fluid level does not lower anymore?
Bro need your help. I went to RE workshop to buy a mckit for my Himalayan and they told me which mckit you want . They have two models one metal mckit and another one is plastic , so which one should I buy ?
I have no idea mate, havent opened it yet to see whats inside. May I ask though, how many kms the bike has done and what is prompting you to change the master cylinder as they can last upto 10 of thousands of miles.
@@leuheanrede so I have completed 50500kms till now. There was no issues at all. Now when I have changed dot 3 to dot 4 oil and after that I have started facing issue. Now technician told me to change master cylinder kit
Yesterday I found the rear brake to be spongy while on ride. The brake was not working at all. When I opened the cap of the rear oil reservoir the brake started working. Its a 2019 Himalayan and I've clocked around 17k km on it. Should I bleed the brakes now?
Yes mate this would be a good time to do the job. And may I recommend doing both front and rear at same time and not worry for next 10 -15000 kms. Happy DIYing
As a romanian proud owner of a Himalayan, I would like to thank you for all the tutorials that you posted. For me, it would be self-service or no-service. Also, congrats to Royal Enfield and the people of India for producing such a great bike.
Thank you mate 🙂 and yes, I too believe in same ideology. 'Self service or no service'
And the simplicity of this machine makes it possible. Cheers
All your videos are very important and helpful 👏 👌 👍 from chennai.
Thanks mate, simple bike with simple diys and that will take it a long way with keeping the riding experience trouble free and truly enjoyable. I am glad you have found these useful. Stay safe 🙂
@@leuheanrede thank you sir.
This fluid change is so important. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and brake fluid that is full of water is dangerous as it can vaporize due to heat generated during heavy brake use, such as using a lot of braking while going down a mountain pass. Since vapor compresses, the brakes cannot work until they cool and the water vapor condenses back into a liquid.
Exactly mate, and that is why we see some people complaining about the poor brakes on Himalayan. I'll be honest, have done 32000 kms but with regular maintenance I am yet to see any issue. Fingers crossed, they shouldnt crop up either, cheers :)
Did it yesterday. Think I fill little bit more then require. Hope for the best. Thanks for always guide us .🙌🏼
Thanks mate. Pretty simple stuff no. As for the excess you are worried about just make sure whatever has squeezed out after tightening the cap, wipe it with some soapy water. If oil hadn't squeezed out then no worries, as that would mean you got the right level
This video and the last one are really gonna help me to do the break fluid flush ... Love from Assam
Thanks mate :) really glad you found them useful. Happy DIYing and stay safe
Please tell me the size or the diameter of the pipe used
@@joyroy7284 that would be about 5 to 6mm mate.
My friend used to say, the max level should not be above the viewing window. Keep it at a level where you are able to see the level easily through the side window.
Again a useful n informative video👍...stay safe
Thanks sis🤓
I was just looking up videos on how to do this yesterday. Fortunately, I don't need to do it yet. But I will hang on to this.
Hi there, yup, just remember to do both front and back at the same time whenever you decide its time. Cheers 🙂
just an add on. once new oil starts to bleed and you still feel there's air in system, hang the other end of pipe upwards into the master cylinder. open bleed nut and keep pumping until air bubble stops.
this way you would not have to work on lever and bleed nut simultaneously. this way you will have to use more brake oil but you can save the remaining fluid in pipe for future use.
The video was really helpful mate🤩.....waiting for more and more videos.....take care mate...
Thanks mate :) yup some small odd jobs are pending. Hopefully over the weekend. And you too stay safe
I wonder why pumping is needed to get the brake lever back again. Master cylinder is not just humble Pascal's law in action!
Thanks for detailed instructions.
This is helpful.
Thanks mate, glad you found this useful.
As for pumping, I wish I could elaborate on it but all I can say is it helps to release any trapped air in the system say master cylinder, caliper or hose itself thus eliminating that spongy lever feel. But a good question 🤓
My first thought was of a valve action which only allowed flow in one direction, but then it would cause vacuum build-up, as the line is airtight. I bet it would be something very simple to a novice eye like mine, but then the engineering would be marvellous. I'll read about it.☺️
@@SauvikRoy and please do let me know your findings🙃
@@leuheanrede Thank you man! You're really kind. I was just watching brake rebuild from MC Garage, I'll keep looking. I'll write here, once I find the answer! Regards.
@@SauvikRoy remember you have an ABS unit in the system too, lot of fluid disteance to push down to the unit then back up to the caliper, I'm betting its the fact you don't have a straight line to the caliper thats causing the effect. It doesn't happen on my older non abs bikes when I bleed them
You made DIY easy man! 😃
🙂thanks mate and I appreciate your kind words, but I give the credit to Himalayan for being a super easy bike to work on🙃 cheers
I was installing a hand guard on mine and loosened the nut that holds the hose to the fluid container on the handlebar. Some brake fluid leaked and now my front brake is completely borked. I imagine some air got into the system. What can I do to fix this? Just top up the brake fluid? I imagine I need to open the container and pump the brakes+top up until the fluid level does not lower anymore?
Bro need your help. I went to RE workshop to buy a mckit for my Himalayan and they told me which mckit you want . They have two models one metal mckit and another one is plastic , so which one should I buy ?
I have no idea mate, havent opened it yet to see whats inside. May I ask though, how many kms the bike has done and what is prompting you to change the master cylinder as they can last upto 10 of thousands of miles.
@@leuheanrede so I have completed 50500kms till now. There was no issues at all. Now when I have changed dot 3 to dot 4 oil and after that I have started facing issue. Now technician told me to change master cylinder kit
Yesterday I found the rear brake to be spongy while on ride. The brake was not working at all. When I opened the cap of the rear oil reservoir the brake started working. Its a 2019 Himalayan and I've clocked around 17k km on it. Should I bleed the brakes now?
Yes mate this would be a good time to do the job. And may I recommend doing both front and rear at same time and not worry for next 10 -15000 kms. Happy DIYing
@@leuheanrede Thank you ❤️
For how many KM we have to change the break oil for front and rear?
:)
Simple stuff, but goes a long way😉