BMW k75 "restoration" (ep 3)

Replacing engine seals while replacing the clutch on my 1996 BMW k75 ,to do so,i have to remove the engine from the frame.
Remplacement des joints moteurs pendant un remplacement de l'embrayage sur ma BMW k75 , pour ça je dois enlever le moteur du cadre.

[@michaelovitch]

Please let me know what you like and dislike in my videos,i try to improve them , thanks : )
S'il vous plait dites moi ce qui vous plait ou déplait dans mes vidéos,j'essaye de les améliorer , merci : )

[@golconda86]

Hi Michael! in my opinion the rear main seal is installed too much deep inside the engine housing. the outer edge of the seal should be in line with the engine housing profile, or at least, 0,5 mm out (i.e. the oil seal must not drive in completly but it has to remain a little bit out). there is a specific service bulletin from BMW (#2798, 11/17/1997) that says: "An unfavorable set of tolerances may cause the sealing lip of the shaft seal to rest partly on the chamfered area of the clutch support, with the effect that a perfect seal cannot be ensured". Action: "Effective from calendar week 14/97, the shaft sealing ring on production motorcycles will be installed with a projection of 0.5 + 0.1 mm towards the engine block surface."
In addition, if you drive in completly the sealing ring into the housing , is possible that the lubricating hole on the block will be partially close by the seal. please check carefully!!!
anyway great job as usually! Ciao!

[@michaelovitch]

@@golconda86
Hi,
I knew about that,i saw that when i looke for a main seal to buy,and as i understood,it's a concern with Viton seals from that era,wich have a huge sealing lip ,thicker longer and protruding towards the inside of the engine.
The seal i installed is a more "standard" seal, still in Viton equivalent for the material,but with a less protruding sealing lip,so as i understand it,no need to take the bulletin in consideration,except for the fact you can eventually close the lubricating hole if you push the seal too much.
I was worried about that ,and i still am,i will take an other look to see what is supposed to be sealed and how,and what room i do have to not clog the lubrication hole.
Thanks for your informations : )

[@michaelovitch]

@@golconda86
I couldn't wait to check and yes,Even if the new type of seal has a shorter lip,it's not enough.It's on the edge of the chamfer...
So thank you for pointing that to me,you avoided me a bunch of work to removing the whole gearbow and transmission if i had to do it once i realised it leaked.
I just wasted 20 euros in one seal however,since i can't remove it without damaging it : (
Thank you again.

[@golconda86]

@@michaelovitch You're welcome Michael!!!

[@michaelovitch]

@@golconda86
Thank YOU : )

[@zx8401ztv]

It's nice to know the seals are fresh and won't leak, fingers and toes crossed :-D.
I'm sure this was filmed weeks ago, so you have sold it by now ha ha :-D

[@michaelovitch]

Few viton seals were hard and very old,i want to keep the bike,i just sell my car,wich is still not sold 2 months later.
All digits are crossed yes haha !

[@louisbonnet834]

👍👍Good job mi biker friend. Bon travail mon ami motard

[@michaelovitch]

Merci bien : )

[@groundzerogarage]

Awesome video again! Appreciate the help in the k75 community! Where did you get all the bearings and seals?

[@michaelovitch]

Thanks
I've bought all the seals at a hydraulic shop for the O rings,and online for the seals.
If you do so,be careful to not buy NBR seals but FPM or FKM seals wich is fluored rubber ,resisting to heat and high speed rotation.
NBR would fail rapidly here.

[@chr11sf]

👍