How well could this module cut hard woods such as cherry wood? I already have the 20w module which does make some shallow cuts at full power and lower speed, but doesn't seem to cut all the way through over multiple passes. In terms of metal engraving, how would you compare this module to the ir module? With higher power will it give you a darker engraving than the 20w module despite the fact that it still isnt infrared?
Well tjat sucks..i have the original 10w xtool that came with the rotary, and i wanted to upgrade but since i have to buy the whole kit nit just the laser itself which is alot more...
You can change those values by flipping the the switch on the control board to write. Then once done writing the new values, flip it back. ***(caution)*** changing values to something outside of the scope of the machine could potentially break it!
I tried to adjust those setting after flipping that switch and was still unable to make it write to the machine. Is that something you have done recently?
Thanks Chad! I actually watched your video this morning, it was awesome! I really like how you are using a compressor for the air assist. That is something I may need to try out in the future. It really seemed to help with the cutting and charring.
Again that depends on your needs. If you want to do detail engraving then the 40 spot might be too large. If you wanted to do a lot of cutting it's great but you will get that better detail with the lower power modules.
Hello 👋 I have been using the xtool 40 w for about the 7 months you also have. I clean my laser and lens every job + 2 times now swapped out the lens. However, I have noticed a steady drop in efficiency. It's now taking the settings as my 10 w to cut 3mm bassword, and even at 100% power, it doesn't get hot as the head used to. Is that something you have experienced? Thank you in advance. (btw I'm your loyal etsy xtool buyer)
Hello Andrea. Of course I know who you are. To be honest since I go through so many machines your are most definitely using one machine for longer periods then I do. I know there there is a working life of a diode laser but I can't image that you have reached it yet in 7 months. I believe that xTool have a Warranty period for up to 12 months on some of the major "no wearable" parts so it might be worth reaching out if you laser isn't performing up to where it should be.
If I had to guess, if say someone that doesn't understand math just added the 300mm/s of the one axis and the 100mm/s of the other to get the 400mm/s rating - even though it's actually only just over 316mm/s actual travel distance if both axes are traveling at max speed.
Hello. Not sure what your issues with Lightburn and this machine are but it might be a good idea to check out my other videos about the D1 Pro with Lightburn that might help clear up any issues you are running into. ruclips.net/video/_7R0j_XQqOg/видео.html
I keep hoping someone will do one of these tests and include trying to cut through flooring laminate given how useful, cheap, readily available everywhere, strong and dimensionally consistent of a material it is(all those machines,grinders, jigs,saws and what not that you see all over youtube can all be made using laminate rather than alu and plywood, and in most cases better...)
A lot of flooring laminate is Vinyl or contains mystery materials that could be really harmful to laser cut. Best not to risk it unless you can get a full MSDS from the manufacturer.
@@Stevieboy7 Laminate is hard HDF(wood) with a phenolic backing and a wear surface that is composed of minerals of some sort held together with phenolic or some other hard binder. Laminate and pvc/vinyl click-tiles/planks is not the same thing..
There is all kinds of chemicals and petroleum products used for abrasion resistance, things similar to Teflon and Kevlar and the fumes are SUPER bad for you. I would advise only engraving/cutting these materials if you are using a smoke proof enclosure and have air filtration and fume extraction to the outside. There are also air testers for job site working conditions you can buy or rent. I would recommend at bear minimum to rent one and test while cutting to see what pops up and validate the effectiveness of your extraction. This stuff is bad news to breath in. And a lot of these really bad ones don’t even have a detectable odor or anything that you can differentiate between regular smoke. It’s not like the bad stuff will glow green and have little biohazard ☣️ shaped snowflakes ❄️ fluttering about 😂😂😂 I know it sounds alarmist, but I personally knew people who have died from things like this and every single one of them said some version oh “I wish I could go back and smack my younger self and wake up. It only takes a tiny bit of time and saves your life and would give you back so many years of quality time. It’s not worth skipping the safety part. “
Note to anyone thinking of purchasing - the 40w module and the extension are not YET compatible. The 40w requires a different power cable and they haven't made one long enough for the extension yet and will not be available for several weeks. They don't tell you this, so I am sharing here.
Did you have any issues with the laser operating correct in light burn? I did a test with it, that my previous 20W did well on. Without changing any of the settings, I tried the 40W. The 40W made the cutout compact. Any suggestions, as to what could be the issue?
It's hard to tell. I was able to swap the 2 out without any issue at all. I would probably check out the xTool Facebook group to see if anyone else ran into a similar issue.
Thanks for the vid. Always hard to get detailed informations directly from overseas. How about the cooling fans? Are those temperature controlled? Or just running full speed as soon as the laser fires?
On the older D1 machines I believe the fans were full blast all of the time. On the D1 Pro they just turn on when the laser is firing and it's pretty much an all or nothing situations I think.
Also the fiber lasers with fixed lens and laser are much better for Stainless steel and can go extremely fast. FYI You can get a laser that is a Co2 laser that is air cooled. You really need to do more research on the laser systems. A Co2 laser runs at a different frequency as do the Mopar and fiber lasers do. Co2 lasers are for specific applications and you cant' compare a Co2 vs diode lasers as they work and cut differently. There is another type of laser that is YAG and its different than the other 2 and is used for electronics industry. I ran one for 4 years at a company for doing micro electronics.
I have a 40w kit coming in to upgrade my d1 pro. My question is I also have a 10w d1 can I convert the d1 using the parts that comes off the pro and make the d1 a d1 pro
You would have to figure out a way to install the Pro limit switches and limit switch tabs to the old D1 frame which honestly doesn't seem that hard. Only other thing you would need is the wire that connects the limit switch to the gantry (that little 2 wire port) as well as 2 little spacers that sit behind the limit sensor on the Y axis roller frame and you should be good to go.
You can cut through very thin stainless steel so it's definitely more then just marking it. However if your main focus is engraving on metal you may want to look into a fiber laser, they are way faster and do great with metal.
Yeah. I figured that one out since I have a grid on Etsy for the extension and someone let me know they were having that issue and didn't know why. It took me a little bit to figure that out.
I use mm in all 3D printing, laser engraving, 3D modeling, CNC etc since it’s far easier to understand and get precise measurements. 300mm is not actually 12 inches, it’s 11.811 inches. 12 inches is 304.8mm :)
Learning so much from watching your video's great stuff, do you know of a cheapish pair of safety glasses for the xTool infra red laser module 1064nm . I've got the xTool D1 20W pro two in one kit. Not sure if the glasses that came with the machine covers both lasers? Any help or advice would be appreciated👍
Thank you. To be honest I’m not sure. The IR laser is at a different wavelength so I don’t know what glasses came with it but I wouldn’t think a one glasses fits all solution wouldn’t necessarily work. I would search the XTool Facebook group or Amazon for glasses for the particular wavelength of the laser to find the proper safety glasses. I don’t have the IR module but I do have a fiber laser which works at a different wavelength and the glasses that came with it are different.
@@dijimeistro From the years of 3D printing I have done I have always heard that you shouldn't move them manually when plugged in because it could cause a spike in voltage but I have moved them around many time without issue.
We have found that whether it’s Yeti’s or wood work, anything over 4000 mm/min causes some slop in the 20 w. This was a passing thought to upgrade for faster cutting, but now I think I’m content until they do a 40w frame which I’m sure will be $2000+ with larger motors and accommodate faster speeds.
Thank you. Yeah for some it's not really the best option. That is why I try to break it down for everyone so they can figure out what works best for them.
Only way to know for sure would be a power speed test on a scrap piece you have. Even if I had the same wood type, thickness, layer power ,etc, there are many factors that can affect the cutting. Best way to know for sure is a test.
Speeds are limited to the gantry size and weight. Also the weight is important to the motors. Those steppers are 3d printer types Nema 17's If you beefed up the gantry and added larger motors you would be able to go much faster. Going faster doesn't mean anything better because there is a limit to speed and optical power.
Like I said I haven't tried it but don't see any reason it wouldn't work if you are able to add the holes for the limit switches and find a new little sensor wire.
@@BusterBeagle3D thats not true at all! There are multiple videos on how to cut clear acrylic with diode lasers on youtube. It requires special preperation of the acrylic, but it is 100% doable.
@@daytrace4635 You can engrave on clear acrylics as long as it's coated with something. You are essentially burning the coating on the surface. The beam would otherwise just pass through the clear material.
How well could this module cut hard woods such as cherry wood? I already have the 20w module which does make some shallow cuts at full power and lower speed, but doesn't seem to cut all the way through over multiple passes.
In terms of metal engraving, how would you compare this module to the ir module? With higher power will it give you a darker engraving than the 20w module despite the fact that it still isnt infrared?
Well tjat sucks..i have the original 10w xtool that came with the rotary, and i wanted to upgrade but since i have to buy the whole kit nit just the laser itself which is alot more...
I wonder if more air assist would help with the burning of the thicker stock.
Perhaps. I was using XTools air assist so it should have been fine but it would be interesting to see how it performed with stronger air.
You can change those values by flipping the the switch on the control board to write. Then once done writing the new values, flip it back.
***(caution)*** changing values to something outside of the scope of the machine could potentially break it!
I had not tried that. I’ll have to give that a shot. It’s definitely not something that is advertised.
I tried to adjust those setting after flipping that switch and was still unable to make it write to the machine. Is that something you have done recently?
Great review and very informative.
Thanks Chad! I actually watched your video this morning, it was awesome! I really like how you are using a compressor for the air assist. That is something I may need to try out in the future. It really seemed to help with the cutting and charring.
Would like to open my own small business with this laser and i guess 40w is better and faster.
Again that depends on your needs. If you want to do detail engraving then the 40 spot might be too large. If you wanted to do a lot of cutting it's great but you will get that better detail with the lower power modules.
once you upgrade to the 40w, can you use your older 5w, 10w or 20w lasers from xTool on new gantry?
Only if they are the Pro versions
Can you use the 20w on all the new installations? Or wkuld you have to replace the gantry and board again?
20W fits on the 40W gantry just fine.
Hello 👋
I have been using the xtool 40 w for about the 7 months you also have. I clean my laser and lens every job + 2 times now swapped out the lens. However, I have noticed a steady drop in efficiency. It's now taking the settings as my 10 w to cut 3mm bassword, and even at 100% power, it doesn't get hot as the head used to. Is that something you have experienced? Thank you in advance. (btw I'm your loyal etsy xtool buyer)
Hello Andrea. Of course I know who you are. To be honest since I go through so many machines your are most definitely using one machine for longer periods then I do. I know there there is a working life of a diode laser but I can't image that you have reached it yet in 7 months. I believe that xTool have a Warranty period for up to 12 months on some of the major "no wearable" parts so it might be worth reaching out if you laser isn't performing up to where it should be.
Sorry it didn't tell me you replied. Thank you for your input.
If I had to guess, if say someone that doesn't understand math just added the 300mm/s of the one axis and the 100mm/s of the other to get the 400mm/s rating - even though it's actually only just over 316mm/s actual travel distance if both axes are traveling at max speed.
At last a decent honest review thanks
You are welcome!
its crap of laser dont buy it you goin to have a lot o issues specially if you use ligthburn
Hello. Not sure what your issues with Lightburn and this machine are but it might be a good idea to check out my other videos about the D1 Pro with Lightburn that might help clear up any issues you are running into. ruclips.net/video/_7R0j_XQqOg/видео.html
Result on black granite stone?
I think it is slowed down in the 40w board because of how heavy the module is.
100mm/mns with what power?
SO, for those who ordered the 1064nm module can no longer use it due to the upgrade????
The 1064nm module works with the Pro model so it should still work with the upgrade.
Which one to engrave Silver and Gold Jewelry?
None of these. You would need one their IR Lasers to do that.
I keep hoping someone will do one of these tests and include trying to cut through flooring laminate given how useful, cheap, readily available everywhere, strong and dimensionally consistent of a material it is(all those machines,grinders, jigs,saws and what not that you see all over youtube can all be made using laminate rather than alu and plywood, and in most cases better...)
A lot of flooring laminate is Vinyl or contains mystery materials that could be really harmful to laser cut. Best not to risk it unless you can get a full MSDS from the manufacturer.
@@Stevieboy7 Laminate is hard HDF(wood) with a phenolic backing and a wear surface that is composed of minerals of some sort held together with phenolic or some other hard binder. Laminate and pvc/vinyl click-tiles/planks is not the same thing..
There is all kinds of chemicals and petroleum products used for abrasion resistance, things similar to Teflon and Kevlar and the fumes are SUPER bad for you. I would advise only engraving/cutting these materials if you are using a smoke proof enclosure and have air filtration and fume extraction to the outside. There are also air testers for job site working conditions you can buy or rent. I would recommend at bear minimum to rent one and test while cutting to see what pops up and validate the effectiveness of your extraction.
This stuff is bad news to breath in. And a lot of these really bad ones don’t even have a detectable odor or anything that you can differentiate between regular smoke. It’s not like the bad stuff will glow green and have little biohazard ☣️ shaped snowflakes ❄️ fluttering about 😂😂😂
I know it sounds alarmist, but I personally knew people who have died from things like this and every single one of them said some version oh “I wish I could go back and smack my younger self and wake up. It only takes a tiny bit of time and saves your life and would give you back so many years of quality time. It’s not worth skipping the safety part. “
The laser spot is supposed to be .15 x .15
That sounds about right. Not sure where you saw that but I could believe it.
@@BusterBeagle3D I believe it was stated in their RUclips live stream announcing it.
Note to anyone thinking of purchasing - the 40w module and the extension are not YET compatible. The 40w requires a different power cable and they haven't made one long enough for the extension yet and will not be available for several weeks. They don't tell you this, so I am sharing here.
Good to know. I don’t have the extension kit so it’s not something I had even really thought about. Hope they remedy that soon.
es una porqueria de laser ....mucho problema
Did you have any issues with the laser operating correct in light burn? I did a test with it, that my previous 20W did well on. Without changing any of the settings, I tried the 40W. The 40W made the cutout compact. Any suggestions, as to what could be the issue?
It's hard to tell. I was able to swap the 2 out without any issue at all. I would probably check out the xTool Facebook group to see if anyone else ran into a similar issue.
Thanks for the vid. Always hard to get detailed informations directly from overseas. How about the cooling fans? Are those temperature controlled? Or just running full speed as soon as the laser fires?
On the older D1 machines I believe the fans were full blast all of the time. On the D1 Pro they just turn on when the laser is firing and it's pretty much an all or nothing situations I think.
Also the fiber lasers with fixed lens and laser are much better for Stainless steel and can go extremely fast. FYI You can get a laser that is a Co2 laser that is air cooled. You really need to do more research on the laser systems. A Co2 laser runs at a different frequency as do the Mopar and fiber lasers do. Co2 lasers are for specific applications and you cant' compare a Co2 vs diode lasers as they work and cut differently. There is another type of laser that is YAG and its different than the other 2 and is used for electronics industry. I ran one for 4 years at a company for doing micro electronics.
In your experience what is the best diode laser wavelength and wattage for cutting birch plywood ?
I have a 40w kit coming in to upgrade my d1 pro. My question is I also have a 10w d1 can I convert the d1 using the parts that comes off the pro and make the d1 a d1 pro
You would have to figure out a way to install the Pro limit switches and limit switch tabs to the old D1 frame which honestly doesn't seem that hard. Only other thing you would need is the wire that connects the limit switch to the gantry (that little 2 wire port) as well as 2 little spacers that sit behind the limit sensor on the Y axis roller frame and you should be good to go.
Nice. Happy new year
Happy New Year to you!
How well does the 40w engrave/etch steel? Wondering if it does more than mark it like the 20w and 1064nm infrared heads.
You can cut through very thin stainless steel so it's definitely more then just marking it. However if your main focus is engraving on metal you may want to look into a fiber laser, they are way faster and do great with metal.
I’ve got the extension kit and I’ve run into that homing issue. Never understood why I had to hit the home button multiple times.
Yeah. I figured that one out since I have a grid on Etsy for the extension and someone let me know they were having that issue and didn't know why. It took me a little bit to figure that out.
why are using mm instead of inches? do want to make the laser look faster 300mm = 12"
I use mm in all 3D printing, laser engraving, 3D modeling, CNC etc since it’s far easier to understand and get precise measurements. 300mm is not actually 12 inches, it’s 11.811 inches. 12 inches is 304.8mm :)
Learning so much from watching your video's great stuff, do you know of a cheapish pair of safety glasses for the xTool infra red laser module 1064nm . I've got the xTool D1 20W pro two in one kit. Not sure if the glasses that came with the machine covers both lasers? Any help or advice would be appreciated👍
Thank you. To be honest I’m not sure. The IR laser is at a different wavelength so I don’t know what glasses came with it but I wouldn’t think a one glasses fits all solution wouldn’t necessarily work. I would search the XTool Facebook group or Amazon for glasses for the particular wavelength of the laser to find the proper safety glasses. I don’t have the IR module but I do have a fiber laser which works at a different wavelength and the glasses that came with it are different.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thank you for your quick reply
Well now I know why I have to press home 3 times... thx
Yeah. I don’t have the extension rails but but sell a grid for it on Etsy. I figured that one out trying to debug an issue from a customer.
Curious, could it be manually repositioned to home or is it bad for the stepper motors/belts?
Really appreciate your time making these videos
@@dijimeistro From the years of 3D printing I have done I have always heard that you shouldn't move them manually when plugged in because it could cause a spike in voltage but I have moved them around many time without issue.
We have found that whether it’s Yeti’s or wood work, anything over 4000 mm/min causes some slop in the 20 w. This was a passing thought to upgrade for faster cutting, but now I think I’m content until they do a 40w frame which I’m sure will be $2000+ with larger motors and accommodate faster speeds.
Yeah I usually live around the 8,000 to 10,000mm/min mark myself but I can understand the wanting to be conservative with with the speed.
Great video review. This tells me that (at least for me) it's not worth the $1000. to upgrade my D1 Pro 20 watt to the 40 watt version.
Thank you. Yeah for some it's not really the best option. That is why I try to break it down for everyone so they can figure out what works best for them.
Did you preorder the laser or did Xtool provide this for the video? I pre-ordered the 40w and am curious when it should arrive.
It was provided to me for my review. I believe this kit ships a little later this month.
Can I cut birch plywood with it? How much mm in one pass?
Only way to know for sure would be a power speed test on a scrap piece you have. Even if I had the same wood type, thickness, layer power ,etc, there are many factors that can affect the cutting. Best way to know for sure is a test.
Why cutting 0.1mm stainless? SMD stencils!
Well there you go. Those are for smarter people then me ;)
Speeds are limited to the gantry size and weight. Also the weight is important to the motors. Those steppers are 3d printer types Nema 17's If you beefed up the gantry and added larger motors you would be able to go much faster. Going faster doesn't mean anything better because there is a limit to speed and optical power.
I completely agree. Even if I could go that fast I most likely wouldn't. I'm merely pointing out what was advertised vs what you could actually do.
Another great video Ryan. Thanks as always. Happy new year and hope you are well, bud! ;)
Thanks Sean. Happy New Year to you and yours!
Is it worth the upgrade I have the 10w .
Any of you recommend it.
It really depends how on your needs. If you are going to be doing a lot of cutting then yes. If you are mainly doing engraving then no.
@@BusterBeagle3D thank you
Very good video - i have 20w and 5w xTool D1 pro
Thank you!
So u really not sure it will work with the D1 then
Like I said I haven't tried it but don't see any reason it wouldn't work if you are able to add the holes for the limit switches and find a new little sensor wire.
informative!
Thank you!
Does it cut clear acrylic?
No. There are no diode lasers that can cut clear acrylic.
@@BusterBeagle3D thats not true at all! There are multiple videos on how to cut clear acrylic with diode lasers on youtube. It requires special preperation of the acrylic, but it is 100% doable.
@@orion7741 Most amusing.
you sure sure thats not engraving and is cutting ?
@@daytrace4635 You can engrave on clear acrylics as long as it's coated with something. You are essentially burning the coating on the surface. The beam would otherwise just pass through the clear material.