They are also really reliable, i had got my project 86 in march and its still a rolling project but iv also put 13k miles on it so far since then and basically became my daily driver.
LT4 engine was available in all 1996 Corvettes. Did not have to be a Grand Sport or Collectors Edition. LT4 was only available with a manual transmission.
Good info! The LT4 engine actually put out closer to 360 HP. Chevy Underrated it because the LS1 coming out put out 350HP. They didn't want to publish the real number where the older model is more powerful. Also, 1984 was an odd-ball year. I believe things like the hood and wheels don't fit on any other years. 1991 was a unique year. It still had the L98 engine but had the updated interior and bumpers.
The 1996 models have a OBDII connector for advanced diagnostics. The '95-'96 have the vented Optispark ignition and larger front brake rotors. If buying an automatic model, try to find one with the 3:07 rear differential versus the stock 2:56 rear differential. Change all fluids, filters, and inspect all belts and hoses for condition. Clean the mass air flow sensor and throttle body for improved idling and performance. Ccleanthe lower radiator by the front air dam as the C4's get all their air from the bottom of the air dam. Inspect all weatherstripping for cracking as they are expensive to replace. And lastly, ALWAYS replace old tires that are 6 years old and especially run flat varieties. If one performs these suggestions, your C4 should give many years of great driving experiences.
What about grease/lubrication points? Feels like that will help keep things functioning smoothly. I say that while I never got around to doing it on my own yet 😂
Check the fuses if the engine is running rough, could be like mine and it just be a fuel injector set fuse. My gauge cluster was very sun faded, was using a speedo app but couldn't see how much fuel I had or any other info fully. I decided to do an experiment. I ordered some LCD polarized film from amazon and by golly it actually worked. I just cut to fit and placed it over the screens, works for now till I can get a refurbished LCD. Also was having issues out of the stop lights, turns out the fuse box had melted a lil bit on that fuse. A bit of heavy duty foil patched that till I can find a new fuse box. The power antenna was working for a few days. Turned the car off one day and it just kept running, located the connector in the back and unhooked it. Suspension is the next big project on my list, its a bit bouncy. The steering wheel is crooked as if I'm perpetually turning right but it drives straight, still going to have it looked at just in case. From looking at everything the kid had done to it I'm hoping he just tried to put an after market wheel in there then took it out and replaced the original in a hurry because nothing feels lose. Biggest issue so far has been the bonded title, I'd no idea what that meant when I got it. Found out real quick but I just have to jump through some hoops it seems, temp tags for now get me by.
Got an '87, issue with headlights. Flipping no problem, but no lights. Was working when I bought last yr. Taking it to a mechanic soon, but wondering if anyone had issues.
Fender louvers?.. I thought that was the battery cover (corvette joke). Service interval for a Doug Nash OD is 1500 miles! Don't go by horsepower rating. I had a '89 Formula 350 with the L98 motor... a very strong motor that feels fast. The auto trans is about bulletproof if you are buying a driver. If you are not a mechanic you should avoid manual transmissions or be prepared to pay for service. Overheating... note the LT1 runs around 200 degrees in the summer and may hit 230! That is normal not "hot". I drive mine to work so drive-thru lane both for morning coffee and lunch... turn on the A/C so the electric fan kicks on. Btw you look up at the girl in the drive-thru window... Corvettes are big go-carts. Everybody loves the look of my '94 C4. Never had a car where strangers went out of their way to compliment it. A special wiggle to get in and out of C4 cars... sit on side rail and swing feet in... then scootch butt into seat. Reverse that to get out. Older people (like me) might not even be able to get in or out. Local Chevy dealer purged all repair manuals! All repairs on mine are done with old school figger it out (google is your best friend). Put a couple radiator anti-leak tabs in most any motor that age... they all have pinhole leaks. It is an old car so you will fix things now and then if you drive it. I had a shift solenoid wire fall off and a digital coolant sensor die. Nothing horrible but both had to be fixed. My heater was bypassed probably due to leaks.. not fixed yet. I need window seals and a rear deck gasket... to do items. I had both O2 sensors replaced... let a mechanic do it even if you know how... hard to get at. As for the battery cover joke... that panel comes off when you change the battery. Yup take a panel off the side of the car to remove/install a battery. Mine has a "tilt" sensor so no power slides... it cuts the motor when it senses sideways force. It will burn the tires hard so be careful you are not that guy that it gets away from (probably the reason they have an asr). New tires only cost me $650... I was expecting twice that. I have not tried to run the Corvette on snow and ice... mostly a fair weather car. The LT1 is designed to use synthetic oil... two stage oil pump. Don't let idiot oil change people put regular oil in it... remember that 230 degree "normal" temp. It runs hotter than most by design. Only two people work on my car... me and the Chevy dealer. I have had garages refuse to touch it because they don't know how to fix it. OBD 1.5 (I think) requires a friend with an expensive snap-on code reader to pull codes from the computer.
I am leaning toward buying a c4. The only thing i dislike is the digital dash. Does anyone make a kit to install standard gauges? Im imagining a clean install with a wire harness adapter. I dont want to hack up the factory wiring also easily reversible to reinstall the digital gauge cluster in the event of wanting to sell the vehicle. I ask this because i find desire a 6 speed but hate the digital. It seems that i find low mileage 1989 models that i bypass because of the dash.
I own a 1992 vette, LT1. I can't seem to find anyone who will help me fix an electrical problem. All the people who used to work on them are retired. I wish I had someone who would engage me in a diagnosis, but I'm at a deadend.
@@etwasbauen6615 The car just suddenly started bucking and misfiring. I checked around on the net and eventually thought it was the ECM. So I found a rebuilder in Florida who I sent it to and they claimed it was rebuilt and tested. Put it back in, and the same issues happened.
I even took the dash apart thinking it was a ground behind the panel, but couldn’t find anything. I checked all the grounds in the engine compartment.
But now, I can replicate the problem every time. When it cools down, it starts and runs just fine, UNTIL it reaches about 200 degrees. At that point, it almost stalls on me, the check engine light comes on, and also the ASR light. It is misfiring and the speedometer stops registering, showing zero no matter how fast I go.
I tracked the codes to a C41 (this indicates a serial miscommunication between the BCM and the ECM) and also codes H54 and H72 (History codes) Now, when it’s hot, (and not started) there is a relay clicking under the passenger dash area and the injectors are pulsing over and over at the same time the check engine light comes on and off. It won’t start when this is happening. So I am thinking that the injectors are being commanded to act up, which points me again to the ECM.
But why this happens only when hot puzzles me. The ECM might be getting a signal from the thermostat maybe? I don’t know, but no one seems to be able to give me a clue. The company that rebuilt it said they will put it on their test bench again, but what concerns me is that either the ECM really is only bad when warm (but that doesn’t seem right, since it always happens at a certain temperature, and even if it is cold outside, plus, the ECM is just sitting at the top of the engine) or there is a short that happens when hot, or that some component is signaling the ECM to mess with the injectors.
I just can’t figure it out, and don’t want to just replace the ECM (part swapping) unless I was totally sure that is what is wrong. If I can prove that is what’s wrong, I will gladly replace it. The again, the ECM can't be found online anywhere (at a reasonable price)
They are also really reliable, i had got my project 86 in march and its still a rolling project but iv also put 13k miles on it so far since then and basically became my daily driver.
Cool! Yes they are great cars.
LT4 was available in 96 only. Any 6 speed 1996 c4 had the LT4 engine.
LT4 engine was available in all 1996 Corvettes. Did not have to be a Grand Sport or Collectors Edition. LT4 was only available with a manual transmission.
Thank you.
Good info!
The LT4 engine actually put out closer to 360 HP. Chevy Underrated it because the LS1 coming out put out 350HP. They didn't want to publish the real number where the older model is more powerful.
Also, 1984 was an odd-ball year. I believe things like the hood and wheels don't fit on any other years.
1991 was a unique year. It still had the L98 engine but had the updated interior and bumpers.
Metallica and Corvettes perfect combo. I'm always cranking up Metallica while driving my C4
What wheel style is that? They look great on your setup.
Etwas, I love love love the tire R.W.Letters. Tell me where you got those, please.
Im digging the red c4 lowered. That my plan once i find one😮😮😮.. o its on air ride.. is it a custom kit?
Nice cars !! I have owned a 1996 since 2020.👍
Thanks ! Thats a great car!
The 1996 models have a OBDII connector for advanced diagnostics. The '95-'96 have the vented Optispark ignition and larger front brake rotors. If buying an automatic model, try to find one with the 3:07 rear differential versus the stock 2:56 rear differential. Change all fluids, filters, and inspect all belts and hoses for condition. Clean the mass air flow sensor and throttle body for improved idling and performance. Ccleanthe lower radiator by the front air dam as the C4's get all their air from the bottom of the air dam. Inspect all weatherstripping for cracking as they are expensive to replace. And lastly, ALWAYS replace old tires that are 6 years old and especially run flat varieties. If one performs these suggestions, your C4 should give many years of great driving experiences.
What about grease/lubrication points? Feels like that will help keep things functioning smoothly. I say that while I never got around to doing it on my own yet 😂
Check the fuses if the engine is running rough, could be like mine and it just be a fuel injector set fuse. My gauge cluster was very sun faded, was using a speedo app but couldn't see how much fuel I had or any other info fully. I decided to do an experiment. I ordered some LCD polarized film from amazon and by golly it actually worked. I just cut to fit and placed it over the screens, works for now till I can get a refurbished LCD. Also was having issues out of the stop lights, turns out the fuse box had melted a lil bit on that fuse. A bit of heavy duty foil patched that till I can find a new fuse box. The power antenna was working for a few days. Turned the car off one day and it just kept running, located the connector in the back and unhooked it. Suspension is the next big project on my list, its a bit bouncy. The steering wheel is crooked as if I'm perpetually turning right but it drives straight, still going to have it looked at just in case. From looking at everything the kid had done to it I'm hoping he just tried to put an after market wheel in there then took it out and replaced the original in a hurry because nothing feels lose. Biggest issue so far has been the bonded title, I'd no idea what that meant when I got it. Found out real quick but I just have to jump through some hoops it seems, temp tags for now get me by.
Got an '87, issue with headlights. Flipping no problem, but no lights. Was working when I bought last yr. Taking it to a mechanic soon, but wondering if anyone had issues.
Fender louvers?.. I thought that was the battery cover (corvette joke). Service interval for a Doug Nash OD is 1500 miles! Don't go by horsepower rating. I had a '89 Formula 350 with the L98 motor... a very strong motor that feels fast. The auto trans is about bulletproof if you are buying a driver. If you are not a mechanic you should avoid manual transmissions or be prepared to pay for service. Overheating... note the LT1 runs around 200 degrees in the summer and may hit 230! That is normal not "hot". I drive mine to work so drive-thru lane both for morning coffee and lunch... turn on the A/C so the electric fan kicks on. Btw you look up at the girl in the drive-thru window... Corvettes are big go-carts. Everybody loves the look of my '94 C4. Never had a car where strangers went out of their way to compliment it. A special wiggle to get in and out of C4 cars... sit on side rail and swing feet in... then scootch butt into seat. Reverse that to get out. Older people (like me) might not even be able to get in or out. Local Chevy dealer purged all repair manuals! All repairs on mine are done with old school figger it out (google is your best friend). Put a couple radiator anti-leak tabs in most any motor that age... they all have pinhole leaks. It is an old car so you will fix things now and then if you drive it. I had a shift solenoid wire fall off and a digital coolant sensor die. Nothing horrible but both had to be fixed. My heater was bypassed probably due to leaks.. not fixed yet. I need window seals and a rear deck gasket... to do items. I had both O2 sensors replaced... let a mechanic do it even if you know how... hard to get at. As for the battery cover joke... that panel comes off when you change the battery. Yup take a panel off the side of the car to remove/install a battery. Mine has a "tilt" sensor so no power slides... it cuts the motor when it senses sideways force. It will burn the tires hard so be careful you are not that guy that it gets away from (probably the reason they have an asr). New tires only cost me $650... I was expecting twice that. I have not tried to run the Corvette on snow and ice... mostly a fair weather car. The LT1 is designed to use synthetic oil... two stage oil pump. Don't let idiot oil change people put regular oil in it... remember that 230 degree "normal" temp. It runs hotter than most by design. Only two people work on my car... me and the Chevy dealer. I have had garages refuse to touch it because they don't know how to fix it. OBD 1.5 (I think) requires a friend with an expensive snap-on code reader to pull codes from the computer.
USD so strong right now, prices on the up and up overseas. Some crazy money for just fixer uppers.
Great car.
i paid 7k on one that costs like 3 in the us so you are right
@@laszlocziczeri5402 what country ?
@@Nzchimeran Hungary
I am leaning toward buying a c4. The only thing i dislike is the digital dash. Does anyone make a kit to install standard gauges? Im imagining a clean install with a wire harness adapter. I dont want to hack up the factory wiring also easily reversible to reinstall the digital gauge cluster in the event of wanting to sell the vehicle. I ask this because i find desire a 6 speed but hate the digital. It seems that i find low mileage 1989 models that i bypass because of the dash.
im not sure. Im sure there is away.
I own a 1992 vette, LT1. I can't seem to find anyone who will help me fix an electrical problem. All the people who used to work on them are retired. I wish I had someone who would engage me in a diagnosis, but I'm at a deadend.
Sorry to hear that. Whats the problem
@@etwasbauen6615 The car just suddenly started bucking and misfiring. I checked around on the net and eventually thought it was the ECM. So I found a rebuilder in Florida who I sent it to and they claimed it was rebuilt and tested. Put it back in, and the same issues happened.
I even took the dash apart thinking it was a ground behind the panel, but couldn’t find anything. I checked all the grounds in the engine compartment.
But now, I can replicate the problem every time. When it cools down, it starts and runs just fine, UNTIL it reaches about 200 degrees. At that point, it almost stalls on me, the check engine light comes on, and also the ASR light. It is misfiring and the speedometer stops registering, showing zero no matter how fast I go.
I tracked the codes to a C41 (this indicates a serial miscommunication between the BCM and the ECM) and also codes H54 and H72 (History codes) Now, when it’s hot, (and not started) there is a relay clicking under the passenger dash area and the injectors are pulsing over and over at the same time the check engine light comes on and off. It won’t start when this is happening. So I am thinking that the injectors are being commanded to act up, which points me again to the ECM.
But why this happens only when hot puzzles me. The ECM might be getting a signal from the thermostat maybe? I don’t know, but no one seems to be able to give me a clue. The company that rebuilt it said they will put it on their test bench again, but what concerns me is that either the ECM really is only bad when warm (but that doesn’t seem right, since it always happens at a certain temperature, and even if it is cold outside, plus, the ECM is just sitting at the top of the engine) or there is a short that happens when hot, or that some component is signaling the ECM to mess with the injectors.
I just can’t figure it out, and don’t want to just replace the ECM (part swapping) unless I was totally sure that is what is wrong. If I can prove that is what’s wrong, I will gladly replace it. The again, the ECM can't be found online anywhere (at a reasonable price)
@@moodberryDid you ever fix this issue? I know the Opti Spark can make the car run poorly if it's going bad.
I wouldn't touch anything that doesn't have the LT1 or LT4...
Lmao I don’t think this list applies to a sub $5000 corvette 😬
haha yes probably not.