Good tips. I've never used liner at the BB guides as at 8:33. Must give that a try. One of my bikes has the weirdest (rear) gear change issue. Rather than being reluctant to change, it's over-eager and tends to oscillate between adjacent gears without me touching the shifter. I suspect the chain but haven't been able to track it down.
Thanks Hertog... nice you took something useful away. I've realised I didn't mention in the video I used brake liner rather than gear liner for the same reason I use the SP51 outer having a bigger internal diameter. Just a stab in the dark RE the oscillating gear problem, you haven't missed a washer out from behind the cassette? That's' a common cause of jumping from one cog to another assuming all else is well in the system.
It's an old fashioned multiple freewheel rather than a cassette, which may be relevant. The gears are friction, not indexed. I expect there's a dodgy link somewhere in the chain, possibly a wide link or a pin protruding slightly too far on the inner side. When I get time, I'll try removing the chain and refitting the other way round. Can't do any harm.
@@Hertog_von_Berkshire Ah, that's a different kettle of fish. My best guesses (without seeing it) are the joining if there is one is the problem especially if it has the old style U-clip on it. Or if it isn't the joining link (if there is one) it might just be a stiff link. This can be identified by pedalling it backwards and it'll show it's ugly head through the derailleur by making it jump. If that's the problem you want to grab the 2 links next to the stiff pin and bend them back and forth horizontally. That should free it up. If it is a pin sticking out too far you should be able to find it using the same back pedalling as above and finally check by comparing its protrusion with the adjacent ones just running your fingers over them. Assuming this is the problem you have a big chance of the chain snapping because the pin isn't far enough out on the other side of the chain where there is a pin pushed out too far. Hope this helps...
Very instructional video's, every video has some things I didn't know. What I did not understand is what the problem is wiht the cable under the bartape, what is exactly the problem when you have to redo it? Perhaps my english is not good enough to understand it as you told it. Roeland from the Netherlands
Thanks heaps for leaving your comment. I'm so glad you are getting something from my videos. When brake and gear cables are fitted to modern brake/gear levers under the tape, they need to be seated in the lever housing before they are secured to the handlebars, pre handlebar tape. If the outer housing isn't seated and they are secured to the bars the outers will always try and pull away from the bars when operated. This can, and usually does, lead to spongey brakes and the shifting being out of sync. It will also make the inner cables drag on the ends of the outers where they enter the levers.
Grease lasts longer and does a better job of getting in between the cable twines. I wouldn't just pump grease into the outer either because alot of it will just push through. On my own bikes (which includes good customers, friends and family) I probably rub it into the outer for 3 times as long as the video...
@@bicycleguru I never tried grease on the cable inners, my instinct for now just screams NO but Im tempted to try it because of you. What are your thought about not greasing anything on the liners in first installation?
Your vids getting better and better, doing well 🙂
Thanks dude...the encouragement is really appreciated.
@@bicycleguru I asked you one more question, in the one last video. Did you read that yet?
@@Ad-wv8zt You'll have to remind me please. I thought I had and even had a look through the comments again... sorry, can't see what I've missed.
great tutorials,thanks for sharing!
Glad you like them and you are welcome...
Good tips. I've never used liner at the BB guides as at 8:33. Must give that a try.
One of my bikes has the weirdest (rear) gear change issue. Rather than being reluctant to change, it's over-eager and tends to oscillate between adjacent gears without me touching the shifter. I suspect the chain but haven't been able to track it down.
Thanks Hertog... nice you took something useful away. I've realised I didn't mention in the video I used brake liner rather than gear liner for the same reason I use the SP51 outer having a bigger internal diameter.
Just a stab in the dark RE the oscillating gear problem, you haven't missed a washer out from behind the cassette? That's' a common cause of jumping from one cog to another assuming all else is well in the system.
It's an old fashioned multiple freewheel rather than a cassette, which may be relevant. The gears are friction, not indexed. I expect there's a dodgy link somewhere in the chain, possibly a wide link or a pin protruding slightly too far on the inner side. When I get time, I'll try removing the chain and refitting the other way round. Can't do any harm.
@@Hertog_von_Berkshire Ah, that's a different kettle of fish. My best guesses (without seeing it) are the joining if there is one is the problem especially if it has the old style U-clip on it. Or if it isn't the joining link (if there is one) it might just be a stiff link. This can be identified by pedalling it backwards and it'll show it's ugly head through the derailleur by making it jump. If that's the problem you want to grab the 2 links next to the stiff pin and bend them back and forth horizontally. That should free it up.
If it is a pin sticking out too far you should be able to find it using the same back pedalling as above and finally check by comparing its protrusion with the adjacent ones just running your fingers over them. Assuming this is the problem you have a big chance of the chain snapping because the pin isn't far enough out on the other side of the chain where there is a pin pushed out too far.
Hope this helps...
Ok, first opportunity I'll do some more diagnosis.
@@Hertog_von_Berkshire Cool... let me know how you get on.
Very instructional video's, every video has some things I didn't know.
What I did not understand is what the problem is wiht the cable under the bartape, what is exactly the problem when you have to redo it? Perhaps my english is not good enough to understand it as you told it.
Roeland from the Netherlands
Thanks heaps for leaving your comment. I'm so glad you are getting something from my videos.
When brake and gear cables are fitted to modern brake/gear levers under the tape, they need to be seated in the lever housing before they are secured to the handlebars, pre handlebar tape. If the outer housing isn't seated and they are secured to the bars the outers will always try and pull away from the bars when operated. This can, and usually does, lead to spongey brakes and the shifting being out of sync. It will also make the inner cables drag on the ends of the outers where they enter the levers.
why grease the new cable, isnt just light oil better if you put anything on a new?
Grease lasts longer and does a better job of getting in between the cable twines. I wouldn't just pump grease into the outer either because alot of it will just push through. On my own bikes (which includes good customers, friends and family) I probably rub it into the outer for 3 times as long as the video...
@@bicycleguru I never tried grease on the cable inners, my instinct for now just screams NO but Im tempted to try it because of you. What are your thought about not greasing anything on the liners in first installation?
@@oreocarlton3343 You'll find out in a couple of videos time...
@@bicycleguru thanks boss!