Episode 145: Great Plants for Grouping

Isn’t every plant great in a group? Well, the answer is no. Some plants are too vigorous in their growth habits to share the stage, while others are better if put on a pedestal all their own (i.e. the focal point plants of the landscape). Today’s episode we talk about plants that are great in masses-that is to say-in groups of three or more. We have options for shade, choices for sun, and selections for those in-between exposures situations. We’ll also feature some great plants that we’ve seen grouped to perfection in gardens featured in Fine Gardening. And you don’t have to be a millionaire to group plants. Many of our suggestions are easily divided after just a year or two, providing you with multiple plants for the price of just one.
Expert guest: Daniel Robarts is a horticulturist at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens in Boothbay, Maine.
Danielle's Plants
'Kitten Around' catmint (Nepeta faassenii 'Kitten Around', Zones 3-8)
‘All Gold’ Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra 'All Gold', Zones 5-9)
'Kobold' liatris (Liatris spicata 'Kobold', Zones 3-8)
Smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens and cvs., Zones 3-9)
Carol's Plants
‘Galaxy Blue’ agapanthus (Agapanthus ‘Galaxy Blue’, Zones 6-10)
Feather Falls™ sedge (Carex 'ET CRX01', Zones 5-9)
Firefinch™ coneflower (Echinacea purpurea 'G0052Y’, Zones 4-8)
Flowering tobacco (Nicotiana sylvestris, Zones 10-11)
Expert’s Plants
‘Millenium’ allium (Allium ‘Millenium’, Zones 5-8)
'Brunette' bugbane (Actaea simplex 'Brunette', Zones 3-8)
'Starry Starry Night' hibiscus (Hibiscus 'Starry Starry Night', Zones 4-9)

[@heathermcelroy7171]

That meadow garden is just what I needed to see! I've needed an area to be shallow rooted but longed for some evergreen screening too. Bingo berms and grasses ❤

[@susancruz729]

Thank you Mt Cuba for confirming my practice to simply “remove one third of stems from the base”, and only if necessary.
And not ever in the early years of a plant’s development.
Hydrangea macropylla, H. arborescens, H. quercifolia, Abelia, Spiraea, Lonicera, some roses , etc.
These are shrubs with stems that become decrepit with age, or plants may become too large (oak leaf hydrangea) , and beg for renewal pruning.
These shrubs “break” from the base when you allow the sunlight to penetrate by way of pruning at the base.
Heading back cuts are not helpful as they produce growth that further shades the base.
Heading back cuts also tend to ruin the shrub’s natural up and out shape.
…………………………………..
In comparison Hydrangea paniculata has a woody tree like structure, and breaks from latent buds in woody stems. So the coppice cut can be low, or a high cut as in a pollard.
Vitex, crape myrtle, hamamelis, loropetalum etc .
In this case the genetics of the species, it’s growth potential and vigor, is a caution to keep a reasonable “root to shoot” ratio .
Otherwise you end up with too fast regrowth.
Especially from very deep cuts that the woody shrub/tree seeks to make up for with its roots as its engine.
Pruning these shrubs also tends to result in ruining their ideal up and out growth habits, so further corrective pruning is almost always necessary.
With this type of woody tree/shrub it is better to choose the right size shrub for the space, allow it to express itself naturally, or tree form it, and replace it in time if necessary.

[@susancruz729]

En mass.
Lycoris radiata.